June 4, 2015

How to Apply the Oil Bleach Kit.....A Bleach Re-touch DEMO - Part 1

Application of Oil Bleach 

So this is photos of an Oil Bleach Re-Touch..


 When trying to get past the "yellow stage, you must always apply a 2nd or 3rd or 4th....depends on how dark you are, the goal is to get past the "yellow" stage. The problem comes from people only bleaching once then trying to solve the problem with a Toner.
Its TOO BIG of a problem to solve with a Toner - period. 

It usually needs another bleaching....using the oil bleach protects the hair's health.You can always- ALWAYS email me a photo of your hair color and just ask the question "SHOULD I APPLY ONE MORE TIME?" put that in the subject line and I will always answer your question if you are nervous. YOU MUST be using our OIL BLEACH KIT, that is the only product that I use and I know exactly how it works.

Remember - this does not mean everyone should run out and do this, you must always read all my Posts and follow the Crib Colorist rules.
 if you begin with very damaged hair 
this
PROCESS
IS
NOT
FOR
YOU ! ! ! 

 




















 I am throwing this photo in here in a little out of context - - -  but I wanted you to see the difference in bleachings... See the hair its a Level 6 brown - see the gold that is after one bleaching.... see the white ???- - 
That is after 2 bleachings...
People stop after 1 bleaching and can't figure out why their hair isn't white..............


This series of photos is demonstrating the 2nd Bleaching (almost always necessary) I'm only applying it on the one side to Molly so you can see the difference between what is normally done at home and what we do at the Salon . (Everyone at home would only apply bleach once - hair is stronger than you think !)

 
This is showing the 2nd bleaching on the left side > see the 1 inch left alone after the 1st bleaching??





http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kits-on-the-scalp-applicationUsing the 1/8" partings and going up the one side and quickly going up the second side...trying to get the back finished so you can move to the front is very helpful. This is where you will benefit from experience. 
Using a comb after each application of bleach will work it into the hair, all strands need to be saturated.






The usual method for a virgin bleach is applying it 1 inch OFF THE SCALP...why? Because the lengths of the hair lift (lighten) so much slower than the roots,



Here the 2nd side has all the bleach applied - although not on roots yet
for many reasons. #1 being pre-existing artificial pigment (old hair color), its rare to find many people that don't have some color in their hair. But lets just say you are a true virgin, still you would be applying the first application the same. 1 inch off the scalp and if the ends are super porous then off the ends as well.





On this left front piece I plan on demonstrating "OVERLAPPING" to many of you that have requested it, therefore am bleaching the lengths a couple times to use for this

Bleaching is not an easy project period. I love doing it and after you do it a few times its not near as complicated as this probably sounds, it really isn't - so do not get discouraged. My goal is to get America bleaching their hair like Stefani, and Aguillera...so they aren't the only ones with Killer Platinum hair !!

For the Perfect Platinum
The absolute best way to have this done successfully and evenly is to bleach your "new growth" roots every 21-24 days...that is exactly what Gwen, Christina, Pink, and any other dynamite platinum headed hottie does. I realize that 'sounds' difficult...it really isn't, it ends up easier because once you get the "underlying pigment" out of the lengths( yellows-oranges-golds) all you are dealing with is the 1/4" of new growth, so you don't have to Tone constantly. The hair has all traces of yellows/golds knocked out. When you want you can apply toners, for different looks and fun. I have over 100 Toners for blondes and I make-up about 15 from scratch. Once I learned Toners were exactly like watercolors - a passion of mine, I began mixing and playing and never stopped. Now I really have given away one of many "HAIR SECRETS" -- kept quiet for many decades!

There is no more meticulous application than that for scalp bleach. The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning and hair that doesn't break and looks luxurious. It is so possible for all of you, I swear its just not that hard of a project, you will see.


Taking fine sections is important - make sure they are thin enough to see through is a good rule of thumb. With retouches, you want to be careful of overlapping which I will show you in upcoming photo and posts. You must go far enough but not too far, which I promise we will cover thoroughly, I have had many requests on this subject.



You have to overlap a certain amount because of that dreaded LINE OF DEMARCATION, which can be difficult when bleaching. I find many occasions where I am mixing up a new batch of bleach & 40 volume to re-apply to that line, to get rid of it, so important. At times you will have to use your fingers (gloves on) to work the bleach into the that line or any other stubborn area of color that won't come out. Have you ever had to work in detergent to get out a stubborn stain in a white t-shirt? Same thing. Any stubborn areas --> apply a brand new mixed up batch of bleach and 40V, working it through, don't leave it on too long, rinse right away and dry to see how it looks. You may have to do it again until you learn what it looks like when it is completely out. I've been doing these for 15 years, of course it takes me once...but it sure didn't at the beginning.

Here's Molly's head taken with a FLASH, these 2 don't do her hair justice ...The left side has been bleached twice and I am hoping in one of these 4 photos in your computer you will be able to see the difference.
If you are lifting past yellow, which most of you will be...be patient. Gold is always the toughest pigment to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow. Patience -- patience, leave the bleach on for 60-70 minutes, then re-apply
Here is the chart of how the color LEAVES the hair strand....starting at level 1... as the bleach works it takes out the UNDERLYING PIGMENT according to this chart. As the Red-Brown is elminated...then you will see the Red, then as that is elminated, then you see the Red-Orange...and so on. According to the above paragraph "GOLD" is the toughest to get out, which you will learn is the truth....Level 7 thru Level 9 are the slowest to come out



I've included 2 different lightings of the back of Molly's head for you, both suck, hopefully you'll get the idea,they are of the same thing in the same day in the same light none of them looked like it did to the naked eye, the left side has been bleached 1 full hour longer than the right...can you see it? Maybe on your computer (hopefully)
These are after the Shampoo and the 2nd bleaching on the left side (back and front)



Rinsing after a bleach: Always use cool water (or lukewarm- just NOT hot) Bleach usually creates its own heat, alot has to do with each persons chemical make-up as to how warm each one of you gets. RINSE -- RINSE -- RINSE with cool water, it takes a while...NO SHAMPOO at this point. Just rinse with clear water until all of the product is out of the hair. As soon as you are sure the bleach is out, then give it a very light shampoo with a very mild shampoo, the scalp will be sensitive - be gentle. Plus, you have to apply again (roots) so be gentle. A light shampoo consists of lightly rubbing the lather into the hair for 20 seconds and rinsing it out MOST OF THE TIME.



One of the many secrets I apply in bleachings, came from my days as a cosmetic chemist. When I absorbed from my Chemist mentor that bleach truly does its main work in the first 55-65 minutes, after that it is minimal, I changed my technique. Most top stylists will leave that first application of bleach on for 2-3-4 hours (think Asian Hair or previously colored hair). Me...I take it off at 55 minutes...remix a new application and re-apply. Therefore a turbo boost version of bleach is applied which knocks out more of that annoying underlying pigment. This is what you do when you are doing Couture hair ...hair on models, fashion shows, Hair shows... yes we turn Level 1 Hair to Level 12, something I just told you wasn't a great idea.......why?



To show that "we Can !!!"....its an art, it is not very practical and is very expensive ( unless you are doing it to yourself !)





That "I Can" get every single bit of underlying pigment out of the Asian head of hair is an amazing accomplishment. Going to Sassoon that was the very first bleaching I did. An Asian advertising student from Pepperdine ( amazing I can remember that). My Instructor had me do a 2" Frame of White Hair around her entire head along her hairline, plus tint the black part a Midnight-Violet-Black....it was an incredible feeling accomplishing that. That is when I decided this was going to be a very cool ride





Remember > to do some of these radical procedures the hair MUST....I repeat MUST, be in good condition please don't apply Bleach to hair that is in poor condition, if you do, you will be very sorry. What I will be more than happy to do for Killerstranders> if you have any questions about the condition of your hair, have 3-4 photos of your hair, 2 up-close - & email them to me. Many people have done that, it doesn't bother me, I actually feel better knowing I've seen your hair. The part of this site that is frustrating for me? Not being able to touch or feel or "see" the hair of all the people asking questions and asking for advice. The first thing I do when meeting a new client is put my hands through their hair, it tells me so very much.


NO touch...NO Feel, and NO SIGHT ????


Wow, this is a whole new talent in hair styling. Virtual Hair Styling - I guess. Once the photos started coming I felt a little better, so please...if you can, they are more than welcome.


I remember hair with names, just names with NO HAIR for me are difficult 

Keep going for PART 2 ....these posts are from January 2008, I just am bringing them forward so everyone can find them !

GL


KC

2 comments:

  1. The information you present on bleaching is just fascinating. There are so few colorists who know how to do it right, and you are taking the time to show everyone just how it's done! Thank you so much!

    I'm looking forward to more about Molly.

    Please keep up the great work!

    Thanks again!

    ReplyDelete
  2. e,
    any chance you are related to the "e" on Entourage? j/k
    its hard to tell if you are a hair stylist or not...
    sounds like you know how to perform a proper bleaching, yet you are inquisitive about Molly...i'm puzzled
    When I graduated from Sassoon many moons ago, there were a few of us that set out to tackle all the "bad hair of the world"...well one person at a time didn't work...

    Now I plan on teaching every single thing I have learned on this site.
    so hang on
    Killer Chemist

    ReplyDelete

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