Hair Coloring & Some Of Its Standard Rules that Must Be Forever Followed !

This Is about formulating your hair color.
So throw in the towel,  raise up your hands,  Shake your head, and raise the white flag ...we must all surrender to the fact that we must learn some of the RULES that are the STANDARDS in hair coloring. 

THIS BLOG IS FULL OF THEM



Lets say you are going to color your hair from base to ends and its this length:

To Color hair the way we would do it for a hair color commercial lets say......which is using every Rule in the rule book and some more that are not in there ! ! !

You will need a total of (approx.) : 4 ounces of hair color - 2 types though

> 2 ounces of Permanent color (using Wella Koleston Perfect - uses 1:1 Ratio Color to Developer) 
and
> 2 ounces of Demi-Permanent Color (using Wella Color Touch - uses 1:2 Ratio Color to Developer)......lets make note of some of the Rules on this Post:

RULE #1 : Always find out the ratio of hair to developer for the line of hair color you are using in Wella alone almost every single line has a different ratio

Koleston Perfect : is 1:1 Which means 1 ounce of developer to 1 ounce of hair color
Color Touch : is 1:2 means - 1 ounce of hair color to 2 ounces of developer
Illumina : 1:1.5  meaning 1 ounce of hair color to 1 and a half ounces of developer

those are pretty much all the ratios that are sprinkled all over all hair colors all over the world.............every single line of hair color comes with its own directions, on professional hair color the directions are printed
 INSIDE THE BOX 
of any & every box of hair color that way you can't lose them when in a hurry in the busy color room of a very busy Salon

now why the 2 tyoes of color?
Well, normally 
you would be applying the permanent color mixture to the base ( or Root area) all the way around FIRST.
Then once that is applied
(remember for this post we are not talking the formula, just all the rules one uses to get the hair color in that Tint bowl that is all mixed up . . . . 
ON YOUR HEAD! ! ! ! )
                                                                                                                                                                          

• >  she has 30% Gray and wants it covered
• > she wants her color refreshed and looking rich & shiny

 First you will mix the permanent hair color ( Koleston Perfect) ........mix 1 ounce of color to 1 ounce of developer and get the next bowl ready......why? you want the color fresh and it works the best right after being mixed, so you split the mixture.

You divide the hair into quarters ALWAYS.............EAR TO EAR.............NOSE TO TAILBONE. I would clip them that way.

Now the goal when trying to become the best Crib Colorist is to do it quick enough so you don't dread it and to use as many tricks as I have taught you, so that you achieve professional results.
As long as you use the professional color + developer and have the proper formula you should have successful results.

Now what is the number Rule that I repeat over and over?
HAIR COLOR DOES NOT LIGHTEN HAIR COLOR
or in professional terms:
HAIR COLOR DOES NOT LIFT HAIR COLOR
both sentences mean the exact same thing.

So, if you have Level 5 hair color 

on your hair presently 
and now you want a change 
and 
you want to be Level 6 . . . . .  

can you do that ? ? ? 
by just applying Level 6 on top of it ?

CAN YOU ? ? ?  

NO, of course you cannot.

Why????
Because the rules... the rules....
Remember the Rules..... ! ! !

There are Rules in Hair Coloring that have been the standards for 70 years, and to be honest not a whole lot has changed in the last 70 years.

Hair color cannot "lift" hair color ( remember : lift equals lighten) .I always tech it this way:
I liken it to crayons or sharpie's
if you were to color a dark brown circle,
then I asked you to lighten it by coloring a yellow circle on top of it ............
would it lighten it?
would it be yellow?

Of course not.

Same with hair color. 
we just do not own the technology for that process to work.
How does it work with a crayon? we have to start over don't we? we need to have a lighter circle say it was pale yellow..........then could you make it bold yellow?
YES........
Just like hair
you must lighten hair past the stage you are aiming for.

So then, you may re-color it the color you truly want and desire.
It then will work properly.

Follow those rules & your results will be as you desire! 

When you do go for removing the hair color so you may lighten remember this important rule:
Do NOT use bleach to remove the hair color. 
USE THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE JOB AT ALL TIMES IN HAIR COLORING.
Use Hair Color Remover, which is either VANISH or 

 The discoveries they've made in the last 70 years are nothing really new. 
Except for a new bag of tricks I recently heard about, it arrived yesterday and I am not sure if it works or not.

If what it claims is the truth. . .  .
it could honestly be a game changer, but I have not got my hopes up,
because 
every time I do it fizzles and burns out
so we shall see.

you will be the first to know if it does indeed take off into the stratosphere!

But, back to planet earth for now.

KC

Most Misunderstood Fact About Hair Color

Some readers continue to not understand an important concept in hair color and don't fret, I

remember to this day how long it took me to have the light bulb turn on and for me to completely understand it as well. I expect to never be finished writing about this subject - E-I-T-H-E-R .... as the more ways you present an idea the higher likely hood you have of people understanding your point.

There are hundreds of hair stylists that read this Blog & I invite anyone to "Guest-Author" a Post on this subject, on secondhand . . . I invite any Hair Stylist to write a Post on a subject of your choice - too! That is a great idea, please consider it. 

NOw, back to the subject that is difficult to understand.....many of you continue to get yourselves in some bad situations by not getting it. Please if you think you understand everything about hair color, read this........... be sure you understand this one concept before you do anything further to your hair- color wise. It is and always has been the single most misunderstood fact about Hair Color.

Hair Color does NOT Lift Hair Color

So, if you have one hair color on your hair and want to go LIGHTER, you cannot apply a lighter color on top of a darker one and have it work. We simply do not have that technology, but if I know the cosmetic chemists around the world, they are rap[idly working on this fact as I speak!

 If you have a Level 6 (Brunette) hair color by any company whatsoever on and then want to put a Level 10 (light blonde) on top of it, NOTHING WILL HAPPEN. You can use any developer you want to, but the technology just doesn't exist yet in today's world. 

In the world we live in today, you can do anything pretty much any more it seems. But Hair Color hasn't really changed a whole lot since being discovered 100 years ago.
People get hung up the terms Demi.......& Semi-permanent..........I find it fascinating. My assistant got her hair colored over the weekend by her niece and went from brown to red which is all the rage here right now.

I was astonished at how great it looked on her, but she said,  'oh my niece only used semi permanent on me' - which I had to break the bad news to her, no - she did not, as you cannot turn brown hair.... red, without using a color WITH developer most likely it was .. 20Volume developer, which makes it permanent. She was upset (which is why I decided to write this Post !).....but......some of the brown MUST come out of the hair in order for the red pigment to go in. 
Its a science to me.

To the public they listen to certain words and think that somehow if it is semi permanent or demi permanent, they will be able to shampoo it out and their own virgin hair will return.That simply, is just not the case I'm afraid, and is another of the biggest misconceptions in the hair color industry. It is the sole reason my web site & store has remained busy for nearly 8 years! I continue to explain this to people so they will understand and don't get themselves in trouble over and over

THERE ARE VERY FEW LAWS IN OUR COUNTRY 

THAT GOVERN THE HAIR INDUSTRY ! 

The FDA is too busy trying to keep drugs off our streets than to care about hair color I guess. So any company can put any name on any product, if its permanent color many times they print 'demi' on the box - because they know how the public thinks. Don't listen to them.
I'm afraid to report that many hair stylists don't take the education of hair color seriously, so they begin their color career 'guessing'. Not all of them, but many. They tell their clients the wrong thing and it upsets me because they are misleading you.





If you had used hair color that would only coat your hair with no line of demarcation...........it would HAVE to be a true Semi-permanent hair color, which means (technical and truthfully) hair color that comes straight from the bottle or tube & is NOT MIXED WITH DEVELOPER. Today's world is now calling it "Direct Color" which is a good name for that category of hair color, because it is indicative of how that color is used. . . . . DIRECTLY FROM THE TUBE ! Now the problem of Direct Color is, you cannot "lighten hair. Lightening hair only comes from the combination of hair color and H2O2 or Developer.

  When Direct color is used and if you were to apply red on top of brown, you would barely see it. Its as if you took a brown crayon and colored a circle on a piece of paper, now pick up a red crayon, color on top of the brown.....what do you think you will see? Maybe a teeny tiny tint of red, but truthfully it will still look brown, hardly any color will be apparent. Use the same theory with crayons. Its an analogy I came up with a long time ago in trying to explain this theory, so all my Crib Colorists will understand.
As long as developer is mixed with color -- even DEMI & permanent - your own hair color will change because developer alters Virgin hair color....no matter what volume it is. Even 5 Volume and 3 Volume will change virgin hair. So, remember that fact and the only way to get to true Virgin untouched hair is to stop coloring, begin getting your hair trimmed every 6 weeks, until it GROWS OUT! Depending on the length of your hair, your health and your genetics your hair grows an average of 1/2inch per month....it will take quite a while to get it back to VIRGIN. 

Its funny the estimates range from 70-90 % of all women color their hair nowadays, hair color is truly considered an accessory or at least here in L.A. it is! I can't tell you the last time I ran into someone with virgin hair color, but its a noble goal for some of you!

So to go lighter, one MUST remove the darker hair color - - first.
Which is why the Shampoo Train and Vanish exist and are one of the top selling items in our store at all times ! 

Make sense?zs?I hope someone will take me up on writing a Post.....
Thank You,
KC