December 19, 2015

Hair Coloring & Some Of Its Standard Rules that Must Be Forever Followed !

This Is about formulating your hair color.
So throw in the towel,  raise up your hands,  Shake your head, and raise the white flag ...we must all surrender to the fact that we must learn some of the RULES that are the STANDARDS in hair coloring. 


Lets say you are going to color your hair from base to ends and its this length:

To Color hair the way we would do it for a hair color commercial lets say......which is using every Rule in the rule book and some more that are not in there ! ! !

You will need a total of (approx.) : 4 ounces of hair color - 2 types though

> 2 ounces of Permanent color (using Wella Koleston Perfect - uses 1:1 Ratio Color to Developer) 
> 2 ounces of Demi-Permanent Color (using Wella Color Touch - uses 1:2 Ratio Color to Developer)......lets make note of some of the Rules on this Post:

RULE #1 : Always find out the ratio of hair to developer for the line of hair color you are using in Wella alone almost every single line has a different ratio

Koleston Perfect : is 1:1 Which means 1 ounce of developer to 1 ounce of hair color
Color Touch : is 1:2 means - 1 ounce of hair color to 2 ounces of developer
Illumina : 1:1.5  meaning 1 ounce of hair color to 1 and a half ounces of developer

those are pretty much all the ratios that are sprinkled all over all hair colors all over the world.............every single line of hair color comes with its own directions, on professional hair color the directions are printed
of any & every box of hair color that way you can't lose them when in a hurry in the busy color room of a very busy Salon

now why the 2 tyoes of color?
Well, normally 
you would be applying the permanent color mixture to the base ( or Root area) all the way around FIRST.
Then once that is applied
(remember for this post we are not talking the formula, just all the rules one uses to get the hair color in that Tint bowl that is all mixed up . . . . 
ON YOUR HEAD! ! ! ! )

  • >  she has 30% Gray and wants it covered
  • > she wants her color refreshed and looking rich & shiny
 First you will mix the permanent hair color ( Koleston Perfect) ........mix 1 ounce of color to 1 ounce of developer and get the next bowl ready......why? you want the color fresh and it works the best right after being mixed, so you split the mixture.

You divide the hair into quarters ALWAYS.............EAR TO EAR.............NOSE TO TAILBONE. I would clip them that way.

Now the goal when trying to become the best Crib Colorist is to do it quick enough so you don't dread it and to use as many tricks as I have taught you, so that you achieve professional results.
As long as you use the professional color + developer and have the proper formula you should have successful results.

Now what is the number Rule that I repeat over and over?
or in professional terms:
both sentences mean the exact same thing.

So, if you have Level 5 hair color 

on your hair presently 
and now you want a change 
you want to be Level 6 . . . . .  

can you do that ? ? ? 
by just applying Level 6 on top of it ?

CAN YOU ? ? ?  

NO, of course you cannot.

Because the rules... the rules....
Remember the Rules..... ! ! !

There are Rules in Hair Coloring that have been the standards for 70 years, and to be honest not a whole lot has changed in the last 70 years.

Hair color cannot "lift" hair color ( remember : lift equals lighten) .I always tech it this way:
I liken it to crayons or sharpie's
if you were to color a dark brown circle,
then I asked you to lighten it by coloring a yellow circle on top of it ............
would it lighten it?
would it be yellow?

Of course not.

Same with hair color. 
we just do not own the technology for that process to work.
How does it work with a crayon? we have to start over don't we? we need to have a lighter circle say it was pale yellow..........then could you make it bold yellow?
Just like hair
you must lighten hair past the stage you are aiming for.

So then, you may re-color it the color you truly want and desire.
It then will work properly.

Follow those rules & your results will be as you desire! 

When you do go for removing the hair color so you may lighten remember this important rule:
Do NOT use bleach to remove the hair color. 
Use Hair Color Remover, which is either VANISH or 

 The discoveries they've made in the last 70 years are nothing really new. 
Except for a new bag of tricks I recently heard about, it arrived yesterday and I am not sure if it works or not.

If what it claims is the truth. . .  .
it could honestly be a game changer, but I have not got my hopes up,
every time I do it fizzles and burns out
so we shall see.

you will be the first to know if it does indeed take off into the stratosphere!

But, back to planet earth for now.

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