Showing posts with label color level system. Show all posts
Showing posts with label color level system. Show all posts
May 14, 2015

The Level System : what in the Hell, Do All Those Numbers Mean?

I am finding there is a lot of confusion, and mixed up definitions of the numbers involved in the Level System coding on the sides of boxes and within the Level System. I'd like to clear up and clarify some of them.

First of all the Level System which is a system: defined "by numbers" is actually meant to be made "easier" by using those numbers. There are many times I feel they have just traded numbers for Letters and it truly hasn't helped much of anything....but I still teach it and feel it is the best tool we have for defining a 'system' for calculating hair color to be used on your hair in the correct manner.

It is referred to as the Level System of Hair coloring, beginning at Level 1 (Black) ---  all the way to Level 12 (platinum)....with all other colors sprinkled and spread throughout the middle of the two.

Here is the chart of a level 1 thru a Level 12 (after high-lift was added to the system)




Level 1 being Black and Level 12 being Platinum colored hair with all the other colors in between in a gradual scale of dark to light, or light to dark whichever way you choose to look at it.
{ this is a Wella chart -- Wella runs a Level darker which means a Level 2 is a Level 1 - basically}

The same holds true in the Tones.
Do you understand the difference between the two?
Levels are the lightness and darkness of hair color
and

Tones which are created by the way light falls on a object. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When I discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with letters.......... standard examples of color tones are:

N = 0 = Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool. 
B = 7 = Brown (neither warm or cool)

Cool Tones

A: Ash............ 1
B: Beige......... 4
B: Blue........... 2
G: Green .......

V: Violet ........ 6
B: Brown........ 7

Warm Tones
C: Copper ( in the red series colors) OR Pearl..... 8 ( pearl means blue-violet based )
G: Gold ........ 3

R: Red ......... 5
( or Blorange) my own assessment of a bleached blond that pulls orangish

(not all company's use the exact same numbers for tones, but I find that each year they are all conforming more and more towards Wella who is really the Grandaddy of all hair color!

 Lets review what a few box ends look like........... so you understand this a little clearer


Here is Wella Koleston Perfect tube & the side of the box.
This color is used for excellent gray coverage, beautiful brow color and an all around beautiful hair color line. I recommend it for hard to cover gray and for battling the Blorange tones, none of us like ( the Matt series /2). Its the only line that does have a MATT series.

The number on the left side of the 'dash' or 'slash'  (EITHER ONE)..... is the Level of color that is in that tube of color. So this tube of color is a Level 6 ....( all colors & tones in this tube are a Level 5 because of Wella running a Level darker than all other lines)

The numbers on the right side of the dash or slash are...........the Tonal qualities within this tube of color. The one closest to the dash is the strongest , the next one being the lesser of the 2 tonal qualities.
Therefore in the above pictured tube is a Level 6 ( my favorite shade of brunette)  with a double shot of just STRAIGHT Brown tone. So no tones, either way no cool no warm....just straight up brown-brown-brown!  Unfortunately hair color has many gray areas that need to be learned by experience....so never expect it to be black and white I'm afraid.

Here is the color the above tube will be............. once applied and dried:


This tube from Wella's line Illumina color is listed as a 5/81...............
 So, for this color inside the tube is a Level 5 (I've found that Illumina, runs - only - about 1/2 Level darker)
and the tonal qualities are an "8" which is PEARL in this instance (Pearl has always been referred to as Blue Violet based which would fight any orange/blorange/gold & Brass Tones). Very handy for pretty much all of you! Then Ash which also fights the same tones, so this would be a very beautiful color for those of you with color that is stubborn in fighting those undertones. 
After its been a little while since coloring your hair -- does your hair pull any of those tones:
  • blorange
  • orange
  • brass
  • gold

if so then this is your color. You would want to add it to an appropriate Neutral if gray is also your enemy.

                                            This tube of color would look similar to this photo:




 The last tube is Color Touch 8/81 :



Color Touch is a Level 8 - 
8 = Pearl Tone
1 = Ash Tone


This is a great Toner in a Level 8 (7!) use either a 6 or 13 Volume which you would apply to a blond with brass or Blorange tones to it to BOTH...............
remove the annoying Tones 
and to add shine and strength to blonde's


which would look like this photo:






July 12, 2013

Level System : Helps You Choose Hair Color Formula

BECOME A CRIB COLORIST 
I would love to see a show of hands, from all Killerstrands readers, as to who had heard of the “Level System” before landing here.level syste,m9
I’m fairly certain, that it would be few . . .  . In speaking to thousands of people both here in southern California and across this great land of ours the Level System is not even taught in the majority of Cosmetology Schools. Just with my little Blog here, I feel I’ve done ‘some’ to contribute to that whole attitude changing.I noticed in the past month many subjects opening up that I truly feel have to do with subjects I have opened up. Take advantage of every single one of them, is my best recommendation.97390255
The similarity between the medical world and the hair world is as about as close as I can come to something to compare the Professional Hair World to. In the medical field you have trained professionals who “hold tight”  all the secrets to repairing (or keeping in top shape) that body of yours. Same in the Hair World  - - the professionals in both worlds never want to ‘give too much up’ to you the public. The medical field ? ? same thing happens . . . I cannot speak for them, but I can understand why they might have to hide things, until they run diagnostic tests to confirm or deny their hypothesis first. Hair ??? The reason is fairly simple . . . if we teach YOU, then why would you need “us” ? ?

Killer Strands BLOG  is here to kick that wall down - -  if I were you I would take advantage of the situation and be a sponge, soak up all the education you can.The Internet has helped me so much with the disease I battle, and I truly wouldn’t know what I would have done without it. Doctors like to keep you in the dark the same way Hair Stylists like to, I’m convinced.

There are thousands of trained hair stylists out there at Salon’s who will NOT try a hair color on you, simply because they have NO IDEA how the Level System works – they “guess'”. Can you believe that? I mean to “guess” at something as critical and as important to people as their Hair Color just seems crazy to me.Had there not be the “level System of Hair Color I can guarantee you I would have turned toward “cutting and styling” instead.72301755 
Once I completed my year of training at Sassoon, I stayed on for another full year of apprenticing – under one of the Top Colorists in the World. That year was spent teaching & Assisting the Advanced Training Courses. These courses were designed to refresh and “update” the Color Skills of licensed Hair Stylists who had been doing hair for years. Being a newbie at the time,  I was absolutely blown away at how little these people knew about the Level System in Hair coloring, how little they knew about the proper method of coloring hair. It had been the only method I learned from the beginning – there was no other "system”  for doing hair color. To this day … I remember asking, “ how do they figure out which hair color or direction to go – without it ?”  Some of these people owned “chains of Salons” back east . . down south – all over the country - -  which is why I am sympathetic to teaching the public. There are just so many of you who have tried every single Salon in the town that you live in and are just tired of having their hair color destroyed or mis-colored.
THE LEVEL SYSTEM IS MANDATORY KNOWLEDGE in charting your plan for coloring your hair.
Whether the goal is Level 1 Black
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or Level 12 – Platinum WHITE
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KNOWLEDGE IS POWER... 
                                          the more you know the less you fear

In every specialty I have pursued in my life, I have found that utilizing the best training and the best teachers on my path to mastering it, was the smartest move.
Remember….”Cowboy Colorist” …………..NO.
CRIB Colorist………………………………..YES
If you don’t know the difference . . .  I would recommend reading the appropriate Posts in the Blog. I have written numerous times about what each of them mean. The number 1 recommendation I give people new to the Store/Blog & Group ? ?
      Begin at the first post. . . skim each and every one. Stopping and reading carefully the Posts that pertain to what you are wanting to learn about. There truly is a “mini-Cosmetology” course here . . .actually something better as I did not hold back . . . so many tricks are divulged pertaining to Hair Color Formulating. Just read the POSTS “by date”  - - keeping track of the day you left off on – returning to it the following day. Guess where I got that idea from…………….YOU. I have numerous people every single week tell me that they have done that. Took me a while but I have finally relayed the message to those of you that have not figured that one out. PLEASE, I encourage everyone to review the BLOG that well. . .  it is a wealth of knowledge in all 3 categories: Hair Health - - Hair Color and Hair products.

Remember the ideas and systems I bring you are all THEORY, meaning it is scientific information that is supposed to work. But with each and every head of hair as different as each of our personalities  – there will never be an EXACT formula that will work for every single person until genetic testing crosses over with a hair company ( which to be perfectly honest is probably not as far away as it sounds)

The Level System
I was told by my mentor that when the Level System came along it replaced the “Dear God’ System with the “Thank God” System, there was finally a “system” of some sort. . .so many years were spent praying to the Hair Gods from above  - - that just sounds sooooo sketchy/scary to me.   
What I would suggest you do is to educate yourself as much as possible by reading every “POST” I have written on the Level System .  Study the Levels . . . remembering as a Crib colorist, you only need to learn YOUR 1 head of hair, while a Licensed Cosmetologist must learn EVERY type of hair. So once you get your base figured out and once you do a couple Strand Tests, you should be able to read how your hair reacts going lighter, darker and/or covering gray and not have it be guess work any longer. 
The factors that make the level System Differ from person to person:
  • Porosity
  • Density
  • Resistance
  • Length
  • Growth Direction
  • Scalp Abrasion
  • Texture
  • Condition
  • Scalp Disorder
  • Virgin Hair Color
  • Strength
  • Elasticity
  • Previous Hair  Color and or Treatments (remember hair CAN be repaired and re-moisturized)

The Level bobble heads990

The LEVEL SYSTEM is:
The numerical system of judging color in stages, or numbers, one level being a measure of light or dark in the hair. The system assigns a number for measuring light or dark without regards to the “tones” I speak so much about. I would encourage each one of you to figure out exactly which Level AND Tone you are.

level 1-aaalevel 3 -ccc


level 5 -eee level 7-gg                 
level 9-lt blonder7                                                         level 11 - KKKKK    hope that helps . . . . 
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for some 1 on 1 training help from KC                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Killer Chemist

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