September 21, 2013

Application For Oil-Bleach Application ( or how to get Gwen Stefani color & condition)

The usual method of application for a virgin Bleach-Out is to First....apply 1/2 inch off the scalp thru to the nearly the ends...(depending on the condition of them). Then when the mid-shaft is nearly  the desired stage of lightening, then apply to the scalp. I hear story after story of people doing this backwards and then they cannot figure out why they have "HOT ROOTS"....or a Base that is lighter than the lengths. 

There is another method, but I am not as fond of it.....but I will tell you anyway.  The point is, the heat from the body speeds up the processing of the lightener or Color. So applying it to the scalp first will always get you (the over-used term) "Hot Roots". 

LENGTHS FIRST - REMEMBER THAT

There is no more meticulous application than that for Oil Scalp Bleach....The rewards for PRECISION are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take very fine sections, so fine you can see through them. 

With retouches you want NO OVER-LAPPING of course.....and its easier to avoid overlapping if you just lay a line of bleach 1/2'' - 3/4''off scalp. Then lay the next section against it, rather than smearing it in with your thumb.

If you are lifting past yellow, be patient, ...GOLD is always the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow.

Now when you go to rinse this out you must be super super gentle and thorough. Using Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses bleach. I always do the most gentle light shampoo even with Oil bleach you want to be gentle to the scalp and hair....followed by an acid rinse which is our wonder product INTENSIVE. If you haven't tried it you must.

Then you Tone the hair and we have about 30 Gorgeous Toners.

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