Bleaching 'Platinum' Secret - Its All In The 'Numbers'

 In Order To Achieve This Beautiful Shade of Pink or Powder Blue or Violet or any of the beautiful pastels there are in the world of hair coloring Crazy Colors there is one gigantic secret that I have not released.

 And while there are still many secrets I possess this one seems so very 'LOGICAL' to me
 I am surprised many of you have not figured it out.  

While perusing the Internet lately I came across a Video tutorial of "how to use our Oil Bleach Kit". You know ..... one of those that show you from the minute you get the package.... to applying it on the hair. 
Well.......................
It 
Was 
Atrocious...............not her and not her attempt 
the Outcome - I mean.............. 
my God I would hope some of you would not attribute that result to my Beloved  OIL BLEACH KIT

This is a very short & Sweet Tutorial to help you prevent that vivid recollection

You remove old hair color and then you get to bleaching.
You only bleach the lengths FIRST...........
and you bleach them to VERY - VERY - VERY  LIGHT , no one will be... 1 bleaching .
 NO ONE. 
Plus, about only 10% of you will be 2 complete bleachings. 
2 Bleaching's means you apply the product to the lengths of the hair completely -- let it process for 65 minutes, rinse, apply INTENSIVE,  rinse and dry. 
Then apply the 3rd time to the Base ( roots)

Then the majority of you are 3-4-5 complete bleachings with the last one being the base.
Remember, the base comes up very quickly with the heat of the body -- warming up -- the oil bleach -- which makes for fast lifting.

Level 1-2-3 will be 4-5-6 bleachings even
So many of you at a Level 7 will be 3-4 bleaching's. If you have coarse hair, or virgin hair you will be 4-5 bleaching's. Going platinum is why and where (no joke) the term "HIGH MAINTENANCE", came from.

MULTIPLE BLEACHINGS is the trick to achieving Platinum.
The trick is applying INTENSIVE when finished and knowing when to stop !
 While that video tutorial was cute and flattering the outcome was horrifying and I do not want anyone to think that is how it comes out, because it does NOT!

When applied the correct amount of times, and finished off with INTENSIVE -- I REPEAT -- the result is the above photo and every single platinum hair photo in this Blog!

Happy New Year

KC

The Only Hair Color Remover ANYONE Ever Needs

Rarely Does a Product Work As Well As It Claims

"VANISH" Works Even Better

To understand how to get old miserable hair color out of your hair, let me tell you a little story of how hair color actually works...how it changes the color of the strands and how it remains changed into another color other than its own ! ! Then you will be able to understand how to remove hair color.

You must understand how hair color goes into the hair in order to understand how it comes OUT.
When you apply hair color to the hair (that is ANY hair color that comes with developer) it goes INTO the hair strand (it doesn't sit on top of it).  It doesn't matter if it is called demi-permanent, semi-permanent, or whatever the hair color companies have made up. Hair color is a chemical process and the one and only way it works is when you put the hair color in the bowl and THEN add the developer..... and... POOF... the magic happens!!  The mixture of those 2 chemicals creates this process that shrinks the hair color molecules very miniscule . . . so small that they can get inside the shaft of the hair and turn that hair strand a different color. THEN...the molecules enlarge so that they are STUCK inside all the hair strands. So those color molecules are bigger and another color now.

Many of you get frustrated with your hair color or decide to do something different to your body or looks -- to shake things up -  so you drive down to Target or the grocery store -- buy a box-o-haircolor'-- and apply. Through this Blog I am convinced it happens umpteen times each and every day, but 'why' is the question!?!?

I am trying to figure out why people do this..... go to a drugstore  to get hair color is like driving to the Beauty Salon to buy steaks to cook for dinner. You wouldn't do that, because the Salon doesn't cater to things 'food' related does it? They probably wouldn't know what to do with the meat .... how to keep it fresh .... how to package it....just everything. So that, is truly the same thing as driving to the Supermarket and picking out a hair color to apply. Who at the supermarket could answer questions about hair color? The Butcher? The Pharmacist?  You don't know if it is a bogus product or not, you can't even ask anyone for help. If you asked a manager at a grocery store for help with either choosing your hair color or how to apply it, he truly would look at you as though you were crazy - - - wouldn't he/she??  Please, there isn't a person alive...that doesn't cherish their hair - - . If that is truly the case then why start the process by purchasing the product somewhere they know nothing about it ??? The whole idea is as puzzling to me as it should be to YOU !
Your hair is important to you.
Don't disrespect it by purchasing the hair color you are going to use to change its color at the supermarket! PLEASE!

Now, let's just say you have done this. You have driven to the wrong store to purchase the wrong hair color, and you have applied it to that hair you love so much and it has become a God-awful hair color. . . .
What would you do?
Where would you go? 
How would you fix it ?
I hope you would head here...to the Killerstrands Blog for help with...one of 3 methods of yucky hair color removal.

The 3 standard items I believe remove hair color all in varying strengths are:

1. Shampoo 'with' sulfates (most gentle method)
2. Malibu2000 Packets - Color Correction (med. strength)
3. VANISH Treatments - (strongest - can do multiple applications)

I want to explain how VANISH works and why. The reason I want to do this is because there is not one other product like it on Planet Earth, it uses NO peroxide/developer, NO bleach, no ammonia.
You have read how hair color goes into the hair strands, now you must picture how it comes out with VANISH.

Remember how the hair color molecules shrink really small which makes them tiny enough to go INSIDE the strands of hair ? ?

When you mix Bottle #1 ... with Bottle #2 from the Vanish box into a bowl....the liquid looks exactly like water..... water with a funny smell. But it is now ready to apply with the sponge. Once you apply the liquid  - it begins working by REVERSING those molecules that went "IN" the hair strands by SHRINKING them again which allows those color molecules to COME OUT OF THE HAIR STRANDS ! ! ! 
That is why Vanish is the supreme product, no damage, no destruction of the hair strands AT ALL.

There is no better way to remove that color you no longer want.
I hope that story explains it a little bit (and remember if you want).

A link to see our color removing products

happy holidays
KC



 

21 Cosses - Help Them Heal

I have started a little tiny PINTEREST Board 

with 21 Crosses for the 21 people

You may add a teddy bear or a cross for those poor children and educators. Its only there because I would feel ridiculous not saying anything about this tragedy and going on with Hair talk as if it never happened. They deserve to be remembered by as many people as will.
 I'm only one, maybe you can be too.

PrayersForNewtown

How To Achieve a Level 8 Hair Color, the Most Difficult Of All Colors

 Having had a great question from one of our group members.......I have decided to answer it out here on the Blog.  I just knew the question/answer would help a lot of people everywhere, so I am going to attempt to answer it with a crystal clear answer.  Please continue to ask questions in the group until you understand it clearly. Remember no question. . . is a bad question....so keep them coming.

 My question is with developers. I understand that for each level of lift equals the number volume to use. Ex: 2 levels = 20 volume.  I'm trying to get an existing level 6/7 to an 8/9. So to me, it's 3 levels of lift ( 6,7,8). I was using a 8N and 30 volume. I was getting a 7/8g it looked like to me. Was it coming out really brassy because I was over processing and using too high of a developer?  I should of used an ash because of the underlying tones, but I want a gold. Should I use 8.01 or 8.1 and 20 volume instead?

  Hi S___. ,
Lets break your excellent question down.
First off I don't know who told you that ratio on developers, but it is completely wrong.
This is the correct ratio for them
10 Volume has '1/2'-1 Lift
20 Volume is  1 Level of Lift
30 Volume is 2 to 3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume is 3 to 4 Levels of Lift


This particular Level "8" is the area that so many of you have problems with, its hard to make the change like you are trying to.
I know it seems logical to use the hair color 'you want' to get the color you want.......BUT, that is the opposite of how hair color works. 
First, do you have Virgin hair? If you do, you would have 1 set of rules.
If you have previously colored hair you would have completely other rules.We have talked about this exact topic many times before .....    But, anyway....

I guess it must seem ridiculous but the answers to the Killer 14 questions gets you the solution you want. You must take into account all the factors that are in the 14 questions in order to achieve your desired color. If you have VIRGIN color, then you only need 4 -5 of them!
But, I would  be sure on your hair by strand testing the color before hand.

When you are choosing your hair color formula, you must take into account the color that are in the hair strands themselves. Hair Color is not solid when it goes on, it is transparent, like a nylon - - think of all the strands of your hair as legs - and your legs are the color you were born with - for you a Level 6.5. For this example you are saying your VIRGIN color is Level 6.5.

You say that you "want gold"....you tried gold and it showed you just what I am trying to explain....you added Gold to hair that already had tons of gold in it. Everyone is different - therefore everyone has a different amount off gold and brass and orange and that is why there isn't 1 small book with how -to-color hair that everyone can use........There just are too many variables.... that very few people truly understand.   But as the hair lightens - which is "LIFT" Here is the chart of how the hair lightens


The hair contains ALL THE WARMTH- - ALL the Gold -- ALL the BLORANGE - - ALL the orange and all the red in the world already, so if it has the warmth, there is no need to add anymore. This one fact is why 1/2 the women at Target have brassy hair. This is why box color kits don't work......because they have not put the proper formula in the box, they add warmth to those formulas, in the bottle.








There is no need to add more warmth.....see the level of hair on the left...........see the DURP : Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment  that appears as you "lift" (or lighten) the original hair color .... so you can see all the warmth in the hair appear as you lighten it...It differs from ethnicity's as well. Hispanic/Asian/Italians. So what I am saying is they developed the colors to work on white hair, which is why you must add a couple different colors to get the perfect result.




Those tones you want are in the hair already...that is why I say the hair color is transparent






























 So, for the rest of your questions.............yes, you could use one of 3 formula's...........try to get used to the idea that you do not pick your formula from the hair color swatches..........try picking it from your study of hair color formulating.

I know its confusing.........it was confusing for me and every other person....I keep trying different methods of explaining it, because every one's brain works a different way.  In 15 years in the Salon I never once used a color from the "G" category (so GOLD !) - even at the beginning when I was fresh out of 2 years at Vidal Sassoon....and without all the heads of hair of experience under my belt.....I would strand test all the time.....I started to realize in that first year that they must have put that category in the charts to appeal to every one's 'sense of color'. Sense is what appeals to you as you look at it, not what you should use because that is how the Universal hair color system works.

So to get you your formula and hope just 1 more person now is closer to understanding how the Universal Level System, works.'
Use Wella Koleston Perfect as it has nice medium blonde's
You may use anyone of these 3 formula's (if you have virgin hair,only).
The rules change when you have hair color on the hair - remember that....you have to remove the old hair color - and re-arrange the formula....

Now, if you really want to try this, I would highly recommend joining the new FACEBOOK GROUP ..I can't just give one formula as there are many things to consider, ESPECIALLY each person's DURP.

please join the new FACEBOOK group and I will help you determine if this color will work on you --
Remember my saying .....not every person can be any color.!
But if YOU can be A LEVEL 8, I will tell you.
Remember ...........Strand Test .............Strand Test..........Strand Test !

I hope that helps and thanks for your Question . . .keep them coming. . . .
KC
Yes, she is correct 10 volume leaves a line of demarcation as does any Volume but 0!

 

Ace Hair Color Technique : Break Up Solid Hair Color w/ Glow Strips

Suggesting 1 Color to most of you is my number 1... GO-TO Hair color suggestion.  One color is beautiful and classic, it doesn't have to be your OWN color, just one color.  Google, "Celebrity Hair" ...  check out the hair 'color' of the top 30 celebrities you admire. I am almost certain they all have, one color. The only people using any variety really are the musician's, and well the variety they all use are extensions or wigs, and that doesn't count in this battle!

Once you decide on that one color  I wanted to offer some techniques easy enough for Crib Colorists to do.  Some of you get itchy for a little PIZAZZ in your hair ...  & so you do not ruin that wonderful new haircolor you have.....these are all easily accomplished and kept up I feel from home.

I call this technique : Glow Strips, for that "POP" of Color some may be seeking.

The Coloring area is in the shape of a many multi-pointed STAR  which is sectioned OFF from the remaining part of the hair in order to reach the resulting look.                 Please see the demonstration below . .

The woman in the above photo in the right hand corner has the technique on shoulder length hair...They have used COPPER strips on top of Blond hair and it is spectacular to me - the color combinations  you may achieve are endless. You don't have to always follow the 'norm'

This one has used the opposite affect which I adore as well....she has used dark rich chocolate                     

 All you need is:

•  color 
• a bowl
• tint brush
• clips
• cape or old T-shirt
• foils ( you may request 8 free with orders)
• these directions printed out

Meet Lola............Lola wanted a hair-cut

 There are many different variations, with this being the easiest. What a difference a cut makes... huh? even on Lola's stone cold face   ! ! !
 a complete demo for you to see how its done a simpler method of jazzing up your hair, without using the dreaded "highlights" button all the time . . .
 Now part the hair into a star like shape. Adding more or less strips - - according to the look you want. See how many I have chosen for this DEMO? You can now use that for reference as to how many to use for the look YOU want. (by seeing her result below) The more the strips the harder the whole process........the 'parting' is the hardest part. 




A star with strips is parted away on top of the head....It can be a 3-4-5-6-7 point STAR. YOUR choice...This was a 7 pointer. Whether you do it to yourself, or have a friend do it, you now can see how its done. See these clips? They are the strongest clips I have ever used....they last almost 2-3-4 years by a very BUSY Hair Colorists' routine ...imagine how long they will last for you!!


Then you "mask" the remaining area of hair off with barrier cream. Like painting, although you can do it with your finger.. !  Using Color Block like you see here, or barrier cream by Lanza. You are doing this is to cover the hair that you do NOT want to color....Leaving the "star" shape clean and ready to lighten.

Masked off ready to go.

See the star? This is a perfect photo of what it looks like when you are ready to color. DO NOT THINK you have to get the parting exactly perfect because you do NOT...look how goofy mine is...
                                                                                                 
You may use either  bleach ( I would go for the Oil Bleach Kit near the scalp and powder bleach on the lengths (ends) for the result of: blonde strips. You may use hair color, or crazy colors or toners.... all following the Universal System of Hair Color rules of color formatting.                                                    

 So there you go, you are all ready to color.
The barrier cream is on your hair protecting it from any bleach (lightener) getting on it.

Mix it up with 30Volume with this scenario - she has color on here hair so you must use bleach to lighten!

In addition I will show 3 variations on the same technique, so with each touch-up you can change it up for variety and spice. This also grows "out" beautifully , quite naturally it grows into paint drips ! the OMBRE method. Many (typical) Stylists, don't promote these types of techniques, then the client isn't coming back for constant touch-ups..or if you are too busy (I was) - you rely on your talent to attract clients not tricks..... See the start shaped hair with only bleach on it...? left on for 90 minutes.... Then rinse and shampoo & apply Intensive for at least 3 hours...........truthfully I would apply it for the 8 hours I recommend. 

would welcome this type of technique..only because it is beautiful and all those others worries are just put to rest.

Here she is shampooed and rinsed and wet headed......I forgot to take one shot of me applying the toner... You see right from the bleach, the color is a Yellowish blond  (which is completely normal)

So first you must bring the pH balance back to normal....how do you do this????
Come on boys and girls..... ? ? ?  after the Rinse....one must apply "INTENSIVE" - which is my personal secret trick for all my clients walking out my door and coming back to here again. Which is why I teach YOU to follow in my footsteps....so you will have the wonderful results THEY did.

 I applied the Violet Beige Toner from the X. Factor Demi-Permanent SOFT  9/22 http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color-permanent-pro      it is one of the most beautiful toners for heavy brass that I have seen for a long time..

here is the results......... See the beautiful shape and color...I really love it and she was on top of the world....Which is the best thing about achieving the perfect color for clients or YOURSELF, too!

See how the strips formed a beautiful look and soooooooooo easy ! how the color ended up and no one ended up the points can be moved all around for different looks.!

Try this look with various colors....think about it........and come up with you own combinations.


Thank You for your support.

Killer Chemist

Killerstrands ''10,000Heads Hair Loss Protocol'' - Introduction

Many years ago I developed 14 Steps that, if followed for 90 days, would help 80-88% of you have a complete turnaround in the health, thickness & length of your hair.

The beginning. . . .

About 16 years ago, I made a turn off the path I was on........ working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overloaded book of clients, there was just not enough of 'me' to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 of my hair. Which was a 'sign' to me that I was supposed to be working on a hair loss protocol, I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss. ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).

There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. That is when I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years in classes, studying and apprenticing under one of the top cosmetic chemists in the country. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is, and how it works on the body. Next was how a strand of hair lived on the human body and  every single fact about it.. The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when.

10,000HEADS started with 20 steps. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically . In other words; each step depends on another, in order for all to work to their potential. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitments. There is an end!

Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in today's world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV.

I promise you, solving hairloss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits.

I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the  female hairLOSS4 (hair loss, hair thinning, hair fall & hair damage) that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well.

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red.
It just blew me away.
Yet, she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.
Why?
Why, is what I asked over and over and over.
It took a full year to figure it out.
She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business. The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!  Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers' out there. 

The 10,000HEADS Protocol was developed when everything else failed. Its not easy, it takes commitment BUT > it has a 85-90% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss). That is a fairly high number, to most, and I even try to downgrade it most of the time....

I suggest everyone with thinning hair, purchase your first jar of THRIVEN........ Thriven has a card with the name of the Secret Supplement on it, so you may either choose to use it or not...The way our statistics work? Using Thriven, the SS and following as closely as possible - these 14 Steps:

 

They may seem tough but I'm telling you the difference they make, is truly stupendous....its worth 90 days of your life, I promise !

and
Today and tomorrow we have a 50% OFF SALE on all HAIR ACCESSORIES, including barrettes, clips, headbands
Check out our accessories

 

KillerChemist

Waterfall Braids Need Styling Cream To Help

We are carrying the new innovative line from Australia called O&M . . . the line is completely brilliant in my eyes and it happens to carry a wonderful styling Cream called StyleGuru that works wonderfully for the smoothness and finesse of waterfall braiding. 

 

 It is formulated with the native to Australia ingredient Banksia extract, rich in amino acids and antioxidants A,C, and E to smooth and soften the hair texture needed for waterfall or Fishtail braiding. Having the little hairs sticking up all over the place would just ruin the look of the lovely cascading waterfall braids.

Aren't those just beautiful works of Art !

                                                                                                                                                                                     Sayonara....................Killer Chemist