November 29, 2012

Ace Hair Color Technique : Break Up Solid Hair Color w/ Glow Strips

Suggesting 1 Color to most of you is my number 1... GO-TO Hair color suggestion.  One color is beautiful and classic, it doesn't have to be your OWN color, just one color.  Google, "Celebrity Hair" ...  check out the hair 'color' of the top 30 celebrities you admire. I am almost certain they all have, one color. The only people using any variety really are the musician's, and well the variety they all use are extensions or wigs, and that doesn't count in this battle!

Once you decide on that one color  I wanted to offer some techniques easy enough for Crib Colorists to do.  Some of you get itchy for a little PIZAZZ in your hair ...  & so you do not ruin that wonderful new haircolor you have.....these are all easily accomplished and kept up I feel from home.

I call this technique : Glow Strips, for that "POP" of Color some may be seeking.

The Coloring area is in the shape of a many multi-pointed STAR  which is sectioned OFF from the remaining part of the hair in order to reach the resulting look.                 Please see the demonstration below . .

The woman in the above photo in the right hand corner has the technique on shoulder length hair...They have used COPPER strips on top of Blond hair and it is spectacular to me - the color combinations  you may achieve are endless. You don't have to always follow the 'norm'

This one has used the opposite affect which I adore as well....she has used dark rich chocolate                     

 All you need is:

Meet Lola............Lola wanted a hair-cut

 There are many different variations, with this being the easiest. What a difference a cut makes... huh? even on Lola's stone cold face   ! ! !
 a complete demo for you to see how its done a simpler method of jazzing up your hair, without using the dreaded "highlights" button all the time . . .
 Now part the hair into a star like shape. Adding more or less strips - - according to the look you want. See how many I have chosen for this DEMO? You can now use that for reference as to how many to use for the look YOU want. (by seeing her result below) The more the strips the harder the whole process........the 'parting' is the hardest part. 

A star with strips is parted away on top of the head....It can be a 3-4-5-6-7 point STAR. YOUR choice...This was a 7 pointer. Whether you do it to yourself, or have a friend do it, you now can see how its done. See these clips? They are the strongest clips I have ever used....they last almost 2-3-4 years by a very BUSY Hair Colorists' routine ...imagine how long they will last for you!!

Then you "mask" the remaining area of hair off with barrier cream. Like painting, although you can do it with your finger.. !  Using Color Block like you see here, or barrier cream by Lanza. You are doing this is to cover the hair that you do NOT want to color....Leaving the "star" shape clean and ready to lighten.

Masked off ready to go.

See the star? This is a perfect photo of what it looks like when you are ready to color. DO NOT THINK you have to get the parting exactly perfect because you do NOT...look how goofy mine is...
You may use either  bleach ( I would go for the Oil Bleach Kit near the scalp and powder bleach on the lengths (ends) for the result of: blonde strips. You may use hair color, or crazy colors or toners.... all following the Universal System of Hair Color rules of color formatting.                                                    

 So there you go, you are all ready to color.
The barrier cream is on your hair protecting it from any bleach (lightener) getting on it.

Mix it up with 30Volume with this scenario - she has color on here hair so you must use bleach to lighten!

In addition I will show 3 variations on the same technique, so with each touch-up you can change it up for variety and spice. This also grows "out" beautifully , quite naturally it grows into paint drips ! the OMBRE method. Many (typical) Stylists, don't promote these types of techniques, then the client isn't coming back for constant touch-ups..or if you are too busy (I was) - you rely on your talent to attract clients not tricks..... See the start shaped hair with only bleach on it...? left on for 90 minutes.... Then rinse and shampoo & apply Intensive for at least 3 hours...........truthfully I would apply it for the 8 hours I recommend

would welcome this type of technique..only because it is beautiful and all those others worries are just put to rest.

Here she is shampooed and rinsed and wet headed......I forgot to take one shot of me applying the toner... You see right from the bleach, the color is a Yellowish blond  (which is completely normal)
So first you must bring the pH balance back to do you do this????
Come on boys and girls..... ? ? ?  after the must apply "INTENSIVE" - which is my personal secret trick for all my clients walking out my door and coming back to here again. Which is why I teach YOU to follow in my you will have the wonderful results THEY did.

 I applied the Violet Beige Toner from the X. Factor Demi-Permanent SOFT  9/22      it is one of the most beautiful toners for heavy brass that I have seen for a long time..

here is the results......... See the beautiful shape and color...I really love it and she was on top of the world....Which is the best thing about achieving the perfect color for clients or YOURSELF, too!

See how the strips formed a beautiful look and soooooooooo easy ! how the color ended up and no one ended up the points can be moved all around for different looks.!

Try this look with various colors....think about it........and come up with you own combinations.

Thank You for your support.

Killer Chemist

9 comments on "Ace Hair Color Technique : Break Up Solid Hair Color w/ Glow Strips "
  1. High five on the pirouette color technique tutorial KC. Loving it. I know I have questions, I just don't know what they are yet. The cut is cute (guess kate got that from suri?)but I was really feeling v.beckham's pob. My all time fave is rihanna's umbrella ella ella cut. The pirouette color technique would look cool on longer hair too; don't you think?

  2. Did you cut holly? Can you cut hair too?
    How is this different than the rain burst technique - is that a variation?
    And the undercolor technique - another variation?
    I just got my new 'my weigh' scale-
    how much show a 1/2 inch of tube color weigh? (I couldn't resist asking)When parting the star, you say the fewer the points the better...why - because you can see the star better?
    You could use Magma too-or you could bleach the whole head, make your star part & seperate that hair, tone the rest, rinse & shampoo. Apply color block, Then apply a crazy color to the star for the coolness.

  3. I love this color and cut! Thanks for the demo!

  4. mad scientist,
    thank you ms. scientist between your name and mine we sound like the happy serial killers of the hair world!j/k
    Your questions and enthusiasm are what I hope to inspire with this technique...its fun to be giving new ideas and thrills to students again...even if I can't teach the regular way, this is just as fulfilling ,so thanks for enjoying my work.
    Yes, I guess I never finished the story about my cutting...I began in hair cutting...LOVED it.. as I was a sculpture for a couple years in Art School (Calif. College of Arts) so the idea of sculpture within the medium of hair swept me up like a vacumn in a hair salon.

    Then I switched over to Color for the Residential period we all had to go through and I found that even more intense - more challenging and with all the chemistry - a lot more complicated on TOP of the Artistic side. The more the challenge the better the project --- for me.
    At first I tried to just specialize in Color when finally landing in the Salon in Malibu but that system of hair just is not in place here in the states yet, no matter where I was trained. So I gradually went back into cutting, which actually was a thrill after I initially got my footing back. To do the entire project from start to finish is incredibly fulfilling.
    So I do both now and love it + I am that one person that when I cut hair I always ALWAYS - cut it longer than the person asks for. Its my rule - that if every hair stylist followed would land them an extra 30 clients a month. The one thing most clients complain about when getting hair cuts is that. ...
    That Stylists cut "too much" off during the process.
    Why would anyone do that? You get the same amount of $$ if you cut 1/4" or 1/2" off + it all "sounds" the same and "appears" the WHY in the HELL cut too much off? I just don't get it.

    Pirouette technique looks great on most any hair. I need to download the HEAD SHEET for you all to really understand the "name" and the modification of a 'single' pirouette. Now I can see you understand this, I am hoping its not too much for the rest of our group. I hope people will also consider showing it to their stylist- I can't imagine why they wouldn't want to do it to your hair.
    Rain Burst is a more extreme shape, much more for the "hi fashion" world and will go into that at a later date. Again, Blogger is not really set up for Photos and displays, to download a tutorial like this takes forever because of the way this site is set up for "words" not photos. (I really needed to be on a site like FACEBOOK, now that I have learned about it, altho we will just have to make do for now)
    When using a 1/2 inch of color - just squeeze from the tube till you reach a 1/2 inch...because it really is just a small small amount. I've never weighed within hair color - I've been doing it so long...once I dabbled in cosmetic chemistry is when I started weighing everything. . . So THRIVEN, DREAME CREAME, all my own products are concocted that way..
    Hair color is my eye.

    Yes, less points on the star - the clearer the color.

    You have guessed exactly what I have already show you all the versatility of this one little technique.

    Stay tuned - for later today and the 2 more variations on the single pirouette and the "head Sheet" to go along with it. There should always be a heaed sheet with every technique you try and or come up with. Which is that sheet of paper with a head drawn on it..and then the design you've made...whatver it is. It doesn't have to be professional, it just needs to be understood by you. That way when you accidentally come up with some great color technique you can get back to it again. This phenomenon has happened to me plenty and NO I never thought I would be talented enough to come up with my own color techniques, yet its really not that hard, you will see!!

    Glad you enjoyed it

    Love to hear inspiration
    Killer Chemist

  5. anonymous,
    So glad to hear, stay tuned for Part 2 & 3 to this series... which should be all tied together when finished.
    killer chemist

  6. heya i wanted to know if ur gonna in the near future finish ur other series about why box dyes are bad when compared to prof dyes...

  7. anonymous,

    yes, I will . . . just a bit busy right now...its on my list...
    killer chemist

  8. I love this technique and plan on putting a pink pirouette onto my platinum blond hair - well once all my goodies get here. I'll post pictures on the group!

  9. I love this technique ! I was actually searching on google for this hair technique,its for the up coming hair show at my school.I love your blog, great job ! Love it and I'll so be coming back here !!!


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