July 17, 2010

AA (actual application) of Hair Color.. KillerStrands Style

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Within our brand new offering of a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store, we will be offering a unique version of hair color formulating assistance.We’ve tried before and failed, but we are trying a 4th time to get this down. I truly am praying for success this time, please be patient…please follow the rules, they are there to make this a success this time. I don’t do well with failure and I feel there is a way to help people with their hair color formula’s its just taken a few trial & error attempts to get to this point.
What the TCE.TCF (ThisChangesEverything.TheColorFormula method does NOT include is directions for the application of the hair color. Which I promise you is just as important, I make the mistake all the time presuming everyone has a hair stylist background, as when I was educating, it was for people who owned chains of Salons and/or were trained at Sassoon. . . when I do that, PLEASE, stop me PLEASE ask questions of me when I do that. I am an admitted ding-bat and a huge member of the CRS Society http://onlineslangdictionary.com/definition+of/crs+syndrome, always keep that in mind.
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There are basically 2 types of applications: VIRGIN & RETOUCH.  Now to explain these is a tad confusing most likely to the non-pro. I think I’ve done a fairly decent job of defining what “virgin hair” is, you must know what virgin hair is to have a TCE:TCF = hair that has not been colored. Let me tell you right here . . . that is the Number 1 item clients lie about when sitting in a hair chair. “I never colored my hair…the sun did it”, a bazillion and 1 excuses  . . . which to a trained hair stylist are laughable … let me tell you all right here, they go back to the color room and just shake their heads that you really think we are that dumb… we know exactly what has transpired 95% of the time. There is that 5% that I will still be baffled by. Which many times turn out to be a medical oddity, Henna, Sun-in, one of the horrid unhealthy hair treatments that for some reason are still on the shelves.
A virgin application is first time color – hair coloring on hair not previously color-treated.
For permanent hair coloring, there are 2 types of virgin application:
  1. Scalp-to-ends
  2. Double-application
The type of the color  service determines which is appropriate
Scalp-to-ends virgin application. For formulas the same level as, or darker than your natural base, the method of virgin application is scalp-to-ends { except for reds – yep there is always some silly exception ;-)  }. If you are matching your natural base (same color) . . .or, going darker than your base…and you are not using red - - then you just apply the color scalp-to-ends.
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Double application method of virgin application.  For formulas lighter than the natural base level and bright formulas ( reds & light blonds) , application is always started about 1/2” – 3/4” off of the scalp { soooooooo many of you forget or skip this step…} From the heat of the scalp and “body” – the scalp area lifts quicker…so you must stay away from it at the beginning or you end up with banding. You must give the mid-shaft and ends a head start and application is started 1/2”  away from the scalp and allowed to process briefly before fresh color is applied to the scalp area. The lighter (+brighter) the formula the more important it is to use this double application method. Most of you go lighter. . . . so PLEASE take heed to this message and how it works.
I will never stop telling people to  read each manufacturers directions for their hair color. NO MATTER WHAT. I have been doing hair forever, I still . . . to this VERY DAY……….will fully read the manufacturers directions. Its funny, I ‘accidentally’ found out with this new BLONDOR that has come out from Wella, that there was IN FACT a completely separate product within the BLONDOR MAGMA family ( which BTW is what I include in the OIL BLEACH KITS….!)  When you see it all on the shelf I just grabbed 10 jars of every size….never even noticing that they had developed this new incredible (completely new)  blonding agent ( something I had thought of when MAGMA came out ) – which is a 1-step…LIGHTEN & TONE. I didn’t see it, it blended right in with the other products.  It wasn’t till a month later when I had a minute to sit down and read the accompanying literature…to see what if anything had changed about using the new Blondor ….something I have been using over 10 years….I learned about the BLONDOR MAGMA that day…. and came up with the oil bleach kit I use on my (limited) clientele….I still have a couple platinum-heads. It includes Cream bleach + Glammor Oil + Blondor MAGMA Powder + Developer….for a terrific On-The-Scalp Bleach Kit.
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This method is used because it is easier  to make the scalp area light or bright and harder to make the lengths and ends. If applied straight to the scalp and all the way to ends with blonds or reds  the color will not be uniform the roots will be too light. Remember go for perfection, in all that you do…even in hair color. To achieve EVEN lightening, color is first applied to the hair that will take the longest: the middle shaft and the ends.
You’ve seen home bleach jobs  - - scalp area nearly white . . . and the lengths – yummy raw GOLD! ! ! Applied scalp –to-ends brought them there. I mean that just compounds the whole problem as it grows out as well….. the Gold /slash/ white stripe….. ever will blend correctly unless you get to a high dollar color correction specialist. Applied scalp to ends  high-lift tints also lightens more on the scalp so I also ALWAYS recommend that the same procedure be used . DSCF1101
There are 2 theories why the hair lightens(lifts) so much quicker  . . . I know it just boils down to the heat from the body…. not any of the other complicated reasons.
Watch for the next post on RETOUCH APPLICATION . . . which will be on TCE when we open this week!
Fun and facts on both fronts. . . . I promise.
Killer Chemist

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