When even Oprah thinks dark's not better than light...
For those of you wondering how those damn celebrities have such Kick Ass Brows....I'm going to let you in on a secret used for many years on every set from here to Vancouver....& a product that's been around almost as long as the movies.
What happens when taking the Level 5 thru Level 1 eyebrow color up ( see why knowing the Level Colors help in a host of ways!!) to a softened beige is not an easy task to nail. For years part of every hair color service with me was an eyebrow tint at the same time...the "drapes MUST match the curtains!!" hee hee Even Oprah in all her glory and cash has found the secret to the beautiful brow when you are born with that dark brown to black brow. If you look at photos of her from the 80's when she began...she did not have the access to all the tricks of the trade. Now she OWNS THE TRADES.
The most poignant point about this bleach...is ...it does not get you where you want them to be in one step, for the majority . For a lucky few, it will....only after some practice. Its more than likely a 2 step process if you can believe that....which separates the Lions from the Lambs....who REALLY wants beautiful brows?
If you do, set aside an hour that first time. You have to play around with the timing as you will read in the instructions and everyone is different. Too light? and you will still have to use a nice beige eyebrow powder to fill them in, which is what I mean by a 2 step process. But at least you have killed those Jet black stripes across your brow, which is hell-acious on many people's complexion (personal preference abounds here). Too Dark and you can re-apply immediately, the directions are quite clear.
For the top starlets we bleach them very very light, then re-tint them as if we were coloring a head of hair so they are a beautiful beige, this way the color stays on all the time - we then give them some of the tint and instruct them how to re-tint if they need to before their next appointment. All that for the price of a small car! j/k.....but it is NOT cheap. {Do not try tinting them on your own, it is a tricky formulation which at some point in the near future will be a new post. They will end up orange or worse - the hair is such an odd texture it took a while to nail it}.
The product is Jolen Creme Bleach, now I have heard some use it for the "hair down there"... personally I use to do a small business on the side called PAINT BOX ( !! ) - we would bleach and then do shapes and bright colors - leopard prints....it was a blast....but I used the oil bleach....and still would I think it's safer.........the most important part? The masking off of the Private Parts ! ! ! Be very VERY careful!
If you have level 1 thru Level 5 Brow and your desire is a level 8 - 9 - 10 soft beige....
your product is JOLEN Bleach , it is made for the face and for the sensitive skin .
DO NOT US ANY OTHER TYPE OF BLEACH- PERIOD - or you will risk your brows.
This link shows several different sources, the $5.00 size is PLENTY if you only plan to do brows. The other size would last you, thru your grandchildren's... grandchildren!
2 sizes > 1 OZ & 4 OZ, price range from $4.00 - $10.00
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/
For those of you wondering how those damn celebrities have such Kick Ass Brows....I'm going to let you in on a secret used for many years on every set from here to Vancouver....& a product that's been around almost as long as the movies.
What happens when taking the Level 5 thru Level 1 eyebrow color up ( see why knowing the Level Colors help in a host of ways!!) to a softened beige is not an easy task to nail. For years part of every hair color service with me was an eyebrow tint at the same time...the "drapes MUST match the curtains!!" hee hee Even Oprah in all her glory and cash has found the secret to the beautiful brow when you are born with that dark brown to black brow. If you look at photos of her from the 80's when she began...she did not have the access to all the tricks of the trade. Now she OWNS THE TRADES.
The most poignant point about this bleach...is ...it does not get you where you want them to be in one step, for the majority . For a lucky few, it will....only after some practice. Its more than likely a 2 step process if you can believe that....which separates the Lions from the Lambs....who REALLY wants beautiful brows?
If you do, set aside an hour that first time. You have to play around with the timing as you will read in the instructions and everyone is different. Too light? and you will still have to use a nice beige eyebrow powder to fill them in, which is what I mean by a 2 step process. But at least you have killed those Jet black stripes across your brow, which is hell-acious on many people's complexion (personal preference abounds here). Too Dark and you can re-apply immediately, the directions are quite clear.
For the top starlets we bleach them very very light, then re-tint them as if we were coloring a head of hair so they are a beautiful beige, this way the color stays on all the time - we then give them some of the tint and instruct them how to re-tint if they need to before their next appointment. All that for the price of a small car! j/k.....but it is NOT cheap. {Do not try tinting them on your own, it is a tricky formulation which at some point in the near future will be a new post. They will end up orange or worse - the hair is such an odd texture it took a while to nail it}.
The product is Jolen Creme Bleach, now I have heard some use it for the "hair down there"... personally I use to do a small business on the side called PAINT BOX ( !! ) - we would bleach and then do shapes and bright colors - leopard prints....it was a blast....but I used the oil bleach....and still would I think it's safer.........the most important part? The masking off of the Private Parts ! ! ! Be very VERY careful!
If you have level 1 thru Level 5 Brow and your desire is a level 8 - 9 - 10 soft beige....
your product is JOLEN Bleach , it is made for the face and for the sensitive skin .
DO NOT US ANY OTHER TYPE OF BLEACH- PERIOD - or you will risk your brows.
This link shows several different sources, the $5.00 size is PLENTY if you only plan to do brows. The other size would last you, thru your grandchildren's... grandchildren!
2 sizes > 1 OZ & 4 OZ, price range from $4.00 - $10.00
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/
Posts
nice nice :)) i am so happy you told us how this is done.I am waiting for the whole process now ,when you have time to post it.
ReplyDeleteSo what is this tint u mention ? Is it ok to use a semi-permanent dye to do this? Or there s some tint specifically made for the brows?
Nope not Semi permanent....in my experience & opinion it is not sufficient for that coarse hair... the hair is worse than grey's as far as being resistant
ReplyDeletekiller chemist
Dakota
BTW...The theory of Jolen...is that you bleach to achieve the proper stage...no other step necessary. YOU may think it is sufficient, I am a perfectionist and with clients such as mine perfection is necessary.
ReplyDeleteI would check it out without the next step -- First.
As I said you can use a powder to fix tone if needed.
What 'dark hairs' like the most? Axeing that harsh "black" finally...
in some reviews i read that their brows turned out a little orange..using jolen i mean.Using powder to tone is a good solution but it means a lot of effort on a daily basis..
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeletehi & thanks for your comment,
ReplyDeleteIF they are orange it means you have not left the product on long enough....which is the mistake with a lot of hair color as well... as a "non-pro' most of you are afraid to "leave it on too long"...it turns out most of your problems stem from not leaving the solution on long enough.
The brows lighten the exact same way as the hair (grey hair).....check that post to see how hair "LIFTS" or loses its color.....when you lighten hair you are(chemically) drawing(lifting)the color OUT of the strands....
I know its a hard concept, but think of a straw filled with dark brown ink....and as you put the bleach on ....the way in which it works is to suck the color out of the hair STAGE by STAGE...so OUT comes the BROWN, then out comes the BROWN-RED, then out comes the RED, then out comes the RED-ORANGE, then out comes the ORANGE...then out comes the ORANGE-YELLOW...then out comes the YELLOW....then out comes the YELLOW-WHITE--(this is the stage you aim for) and the last stage is WHITE-(here you've gone too far) the hair gets to the disintegration stage.
The idea is to stop at the YELLOW-WHITE stage, as I have coined it>frozen butter> "stop at the color of FROZEN BUTTER" and your hair will be the perfect color.
Check those stages ...if your brows were orange-yellow , you had 1-2 stages to go..if they were orange you were 2-3 stages Short of the proper time.
With brows its really OK to leave them on to the proper stage, again you have not left them on long enough, and if you read the directions I am sure it tells you that.
What you would do is to mix up another mixture and try leaving it on for another 3-7 minutes...it depends on the coarseness of your hair, your virgin hair color...blah blah blah.
Until you figure out the exact timing for YOUR brows.
Once you get them there, leave them be.... til they grow out (everyone is different)
With brows its better a tiny bit too light than too yellow, PROMISE.
Most of you won't ever have them too light, you just have to get used to the new "you".......
and Boy can new brows CHANGE A PERSON!!!
Am I right?
How many others have tried the bleach??? write in please.....share your experiences...Here instead of my email..that is why i do this so you all can learn from each other as well.
thanks, killer chemist
After re-reading your comment.......there is absolutely no reason you need to have any orange in your brows using this product, you must use it correctly.. this is what is used on oprah, heidi klum,gisele, christina, rihanna...and every other blonde with dark VIRGIN hair that chooses that look. Leave it on 3-5 minutes longer, it may take another 10 go bit by bit.
ReplyDeleteAnyone with black brows that wants to knock that harsh black tone out of the hair - this is what we use, its simply the best. How about that price!
We have places here in southern Cal where an appointment to get your brows shaped and colored can cost $200.-- $500.!
ridiculous in my eyes.
KC
i think the problem is that you never want to go to level 10 for your eyebrows.i agree that at that stage there will probably be no orange or yellow, but it is too light!If your hair color is 10,you need at most level 7 eyebrows.but at the bleaching stage that your color is level 7,there is that orange tone..The same problem goes with the hair because the only way to tone down read and orange hues is by going level 10 and even more..i have seen beautyful platinum blonds on people, but to see a nice level 8 for example is quite rare.
ReplyDeleteThat's so weird to me...I just finished up 2 Level 8's today, I guess for some it is tricky, but I don't find it that way. As for the brows...its in a matter of minutes that you can get rid of that orange...you just need to leave it on an extra 30 seconds sometimes just to rid the hair of the orange or yellow tinge....sometimes its a matter of 2 minutes, its all variable.
ReplyDeleteDepends on the person, it CAN be done, I've done it for years.
I can tell by rubbing the color OFF the hair and Looking at it when the yellow is gone and its time to take it off (before its gotten too light) ...YES, it takes
experience, but all good things do.
Even eyebrows! Just keep practicing till you get it down for YOU...I have to have it down for hundreds! Consider yourself lucky.
Dakota
killer chemist
i dont know what to do anymore. please help. im trying to get very light brown from dark brown. (although my perception is very different than the hair color charts! my color is probably level 4 naturally and i want level 6, which to me would be light brown)
ReplyDeletea couple years ago i tried the jolen bleach, left it on for probably 20 or 30 min. it only got to red/orange, maybe blonde too.
just read your blog on this, so tried clairol 8A mixed with wella 30 volume. in 20-30 min it was red/orange, and it took 55 minutes till it was a little lighter! not even blond though.
and a couple days later it seemed darker again and started growing back dark roots.
i used an ash to counteract the red/yellow which didnt work.
at salons, colorists do tell me my hair is stubborn and takes extra long, but its ridiculous to have it on an hour and it still isnt even blond. or am i doing something wrong, should i only use 30 vol and not color? then add a light brown. is it possible to get the color i want. toner?
Are you talking brows? not hair?
ReplyDeleteI will assume you are..
no nothing is weird or wrong with you and there are a million exceptions to every single rule.
ESpecially in hair color...and even MORE especially in brows. Brows are weird, they just are. The hair is weird, the rules get all screwy and its a very individualistic operation. that means your hair is very resistant and that is a very real problem with about 10% of the population
Small but significant
So what do we do>?
We bring out the a"turbo" tools at the Salon...
which I don't know that I should be plastering all over the Internet.
let me know if we are talking the brows here...you almost sound like you are talking 'hair'.
Jolen has reformulated their bleach in the last year, I have the best results with it. Although it is very very mild. 'I honestly would re-try it.
No hair is "not" bleachable, or none in the over 10,000 Heads of hair I have worked on....
if it isn't working and its not bothering the clients skin, we just 'go bigger'!
'go stronger'
(put a drop or 2 of oil in regular bleach would be my own next step - be SURE TO WATCH IT & if it starts itching or irritating then wipe it off - be super duper careful of your eyes - this process is NOT approved by the California Cosmetic Board FYI)
BTW.... if your hair is resistant, you won't be able to get the brows to lighten just like hair...there are lots I can treat their brows as if it was regular hair...but only about 50% of women. YOu would have to bleach first then re-tint lighter - i'm guessing...Lots of african american models > we do this to.
Killer chemist
The thing that i dont understand about dying brows is why use jolen?
ReplyDeleteWhy not use normal 40v bleach?
My eyebrows are a level 1 black. My hair is a level 4 natural but its bleached a level 6. I need to lighten them at least to a level 5.
4 levels diff + i need a level
What volume is jolen? and why not use normal bleach and permenent hair dye?
Is jolen all you need to lighten? + permenent hair dye
PS. whats the difference between a lightener and a developer
Sash,
ReplyDeleteJolen is made for the purpose of eyebrows, it is the proper consistency and works like nothing I have ever seen.
I absolutely DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU USE ANYTHING ELSE. You cannot just plaster bleach on any hair on the body that's not how things work. This is a site for using the proper techniques and proper products so you get the proper results.
I'm very much against "color cowboy" techniques as they end up with burnt skin, trashed hair and improper results.
By teaching you the proper methods- my hopes for you to get the dynamite results I got with clients over the years, becomes a lot more probable.
Jolen is 2 products.
A super mild powder bleach....and
a
creame Developer.
Once the brows are lightened then most will need to be "re-tinted" a nice soft beige.
Lightener = Bleach
Developer = Peroxide (different volumes)
HTH
KC
oh yeah! it will burn great point! =) you've been so helpful thanks so much!
ReplyDeleteAren't your brows going to look weird if you dyed your dark hair, medium blonde, then bleach your dark brows yellow and then they regrow? What do you do then? And why cant you tint them? I really wanna tint them!
ReplyDeleteLucy
would it be okay if i used JOLENS bleach to bleach my moustache? are there any harsh or damaging chemicals? thanks
ReplyDeleteYes it is safe to use on your mustache. Personally though, I wax mine, along with everything else. It's a little painful but you get used to it and the hair is gone for about a month. I use Parissa waxing strips, which you can get at Ulta. They are super easy, you just have to put one of the strips in you hand and rub your hands together to heat up the strip. Then peel the strips apart and apply, pressing down in the direction of hair growth. Then pull the strip quickly in the opposite direction of the hair growth and VIOLA! NO MORE HAIR!
ReplyDeleteBTW, I use Jolens for my eyebrows and LOVE IT! It's cheap and it gets the job done. My hair is normally medium brown but is completely bleached with Wella Color Charm's "White Lady" Toner on top. I also applied this toner to my eyebrows after I bleached them because they didn't come out a little brassy, but now they are perfect. Good Luck and Hope this helped!
I am not experienced with whether or not Jolen works for a mustache....anyone else kno ?
ReplyDeletethanks, KC
RE: Mustaches:
ReplyDeleteYup, that's why my mom suggested it to me :S I thought she meant for my eyebrows, but it works wonders on facial hair! Also, my mom used to use it on her lower back, so I'd imagine it's safe for almost any body hair.