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Monday, January 11, 2010

Big LOVE<>Big HAIR, 2010 Smokin’ Hair Styles

4 Lengths – How Lucky Can One Gal Be

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The premiere of Big Love always puts me in a fun festive mood, have no idea why, its amazing what a great TV show can do to your spirit. For a very different Post from ‘moi’ I chose to simply pick out 4 great hair styles for 2010, I hope you enjoy and get inspired.

Instead of choosing 1 hot new look for the season, I’ve always followed the Brits, who choose the next “hip” styles by each length of hair – so there are always 3 or 4 and they chose these to show with each seasonal collection of clothes. Recently they showed the clothing collection for Summer 2010, with that comes this collection of hair styles.

Here in the USA, they go from super short hair style ( like the hard core crop ) one year to super long the next and back again. I don’t know about you, but most of my clients can’t just easily grow their hair to extreme lengths on a whim. So it puts the styles they are promoting out-of-reach and does nothing but frustrate women. They do this – on purpose – to boost biz, which I understand but going from super short to super long and back again is not an easy road. I’m all for bringing in new colors/new styles and inspiring the public, but lets be reasonable about it. Those long to short and long again (that only happens here in the US) encourages extension use, something I am SUPER opposed to. 80472214

Therefore lets start the Euro trend of picking the NEW “styles” for the 3 lengths of hair. Its a wonderful theory and an excellent compromise, that will still satisfy both sides – the public, the Stylists AND the manufacturers.

For 2010 I have picked out 4 looks I think are trend setting. Remember though, the public usually runs about 1 year behind what the shows and magazines depict. I’m not sure why, although I have always thought its because people are mostly afraid of “change”. I really respect people who change their hair up a lot, takes a lot of guts – a lot of inner confidence - - and a lot of cash ! ha ha

First is : Big Waves

Lets begin with the one style everyone wants, but few get….the long –long-long hair with scrumptious waves look : Big Waves. Remember though – NO extensions. They pull your hair out at the root. When that happens many times parts of those hairs will not grow back, I have seen so much balding as a result of extensions.

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bombshell mops173 bombshell mops176 Now, this hair should be long with minimal layering. The hot color this year has numerous names depending on who you ask, I call it BLONETTE, some call it BRONDE, there are all sorts of funny names….you get the idea – a Level 7NBG is how I would best describe it.. Most important for this hair type? EXCELLENT condition. Also –> naturally wavy hair has an advantage, otherwise be ready with a Curling Iron or even better Velcro Rollers – using a spray serum to cover the hair before the iron.

Next : BOXER BOBS

The Bob is hard to get people to go for, and am not too sure ‘why’. It never goes off the style radar for long – this season both with and without a fringe (bangs), although the shape is sharper than ever. Its a great look for thinning hair…really gives the illusion of thicker and healthier hair than you may have.

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The cut needs a strong, sharp shape with no layers and should be worn sleek and straight to enhance the lines. Some think thick hair suits this style….I happen to disagree. This can be the loveliest style for thin hair. Suits many face shapes, I wish more would try this.

HARD CORE CROP

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Sides should be kept short, tight and tailored, but keeping the length longer on top for versatility and to give you lots of styling options.

Another hard style to get people to try, but when they do most fall head over heels. Great for thin – thick or medium hair . . . adding an interesting color is truly the cherry on top. Color “Flashes” are super thin little slivers of color. Whether it be slivers of red-violet on Level 1 hair…. or tiny bits of silver on platinum….try it. Its so very very easy to do to oneself. For the first time you have a store to purchase anything you need, here is the coolest silver I have ever used ( although it is permanent – so be very VERY sure you want the color!): http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/pravana-chromasilk-vivids-semi-permanent-crazy-color

Last but not least: the SURFER SHAG

Disheveled texture is a favorite of mine and many of the ‘surfer chicks’ sport… we lovingly refer to them as. Those that don’t see fit for a chic look seem to adore the sexy surfer shag.

badasshair109 bombshell mops168 badasshair106 bombshell mops152 The style must-haves: should be loaded with short choppy layers to take the weight out of the cut, enhance the texture and natural wave. This is a great for growing out another cut, it can turn a ‘nothing cut into a something with guts and style cred. For me it is difficult to describe ‘cuts’ to the non-pro. . . its an art and geometry is involved. Which is one reason I ALWAYS ask people to use photos when they want a cut or are talking about a cut . If I used the proper words I discovered no one in the public knew what I was talking about, that is how intricate Sassoon autopsies a haircut .

This Surfer Shag is named after the culture, its meant to look rough and as though you just stepped out of the water. This is my fav for the year. Open your heart - - open your mind, become brave and give a new cut a try one of these is for you.

I have forgotten the days when I didn’t know how to do hair. So that is a super valid trick for you . . .ALWAYS use photos to show your Stylist the cut you want…the discrepancies in the meaning of “descriptive words” can give you LAYERS…when what you wanted was “TAPERING”. Words can give you the wrong cut….I can’t tell you how many times I have seen that one mistake. How many of you think that when your hair is cut like this ………badasshair181

……see how her hair ‘frames’ her face . . . its cut in a manner to wrap around the facial features. I think 90% of people call that “Layers”…..well, its not. . . . its called “Tapering”.

I still feel that spending as much as you can afford on a good cut every 2 months ( so only 5-6 times a year ) is a great investment, all 4 of these takes a Stylist who understands the “basic's” of haircutting, try your hardest to find a Sassoon grad. We are trained and honed in artistic geometric hair cuts like no one else on the planet. Sassoon and the couple that bought it from him were the Worlds Master Cutters.

. Open your heart - - open your mind, become brave and give a new cut a try……… one of these cuts ‘could’ change your life. I cannot tell you how many times a new cut/color has completely changed a person’s life ! !

thank you,

Killer Chemist

Thursday, January 7, 2010

The Magic of Hair Color Mixology

Becoming a Crib Colorist

Mix Colorissimo w/ RenColor & why

I am very, no…. make that ---> EXTREMELY proud of so many of you that follow the KillerStrands teachings and have taken it upon yourself to learn the proper way to color hair. I hear many of you talking in “Colorist-lingo” and speaking about it correctly and in the proper format. Makes me a proud Mama Bear. There seems to be a lot of questions about the mixing of colors when using the Renbow Lines and I can fully understand that.

Why? When I was in Sassoon Academy no one ever mixed the 2 lines together. . .when I got out and was able to order the color myself for my own Clientele…I began reading the Instruction sheets, Color Charts and Inserts that come with the color, I was very thirsty for knowledge back then, much like many of you are now.

It was not until this point though, (about 3 years after I started) that I began experimenting with mixing RenColor and Colorissimo together. I mean why wouldn’t these Master Colorists {that were my Instructors} not teach me the exact ‘correct’ methods of mixing & applying this color? ? ? It took me quite a few years to finally come up with that answer. [... because they never slowed down long enough to read the Manufacturers Instructions and suggestions which is what I did - sometimes 'ego' gets in the way of learning -be careful of that one!].

I highly suggest all of you read the manufacturers instructions periodically on hair color that you are using…you never know when they have changed the instructions so check it all over periodically. So I was not taught the way to use Colorissimo and RenColor together….that was one of the most amazing discoveries of my career…I still remember the day.

RenColor comes in 30 beautiful fashion and pastel shades. To this date I have never seen one other line of permanent hair color with this range and this unusual of colors. I keep waiting for anyone to get close or to understand that as a top Colorist. THIS IS WHAT TONES WE WANT…they may seem a bit unusual to many of you. But you ask any top colorist & most will agree. The thing about Renbow and why it was not nearly as big as any of the other lines? Is because it was owned and run and a famous italian Colorist Renato Bruno. Renato came to America and ended up staying here when he brought the line over… so he has a manufacturing plant and distribution in Italy and throughout Europe and in Pennsylvania & throughout the USA. The bottle contains 2 ounces of product and must be mixed with an equal amount of hydrogen peroxide..

Rencolor provides amazing lift & lasting ability, self-stopping coloring action, no build-up of color on the ends as is so with ALL Renbow colors. RenColor is also know for its superb transparency, unsurpassed conditioning…but mostly > its known for is SHINE!

There are 4 Shade Divisions within RenColor

DUSK ……………..….in Levels 1 to 6

DAWN …………….…in Levels 6 to 10

SUNRISE …………in Levels 7 to 10

SUNSET …………. in Levels 5 to 8

…………………………………………………………………

Lets Begin with DUSK

DUSK - An intermixed base that is predominantly a deep tone. There just isn’t a lot of tones that show up in dark levels. I have watched various companies try and fail -- attempting it. A 3 BRV, pretty much looks like black if you ask me. Or a 4A, which many companies, including both WELLA & Renbow’s Colorissimo have…I have a great eye for color especially hair color but anything below a 5 or especially a 4 is pointless….its just too damn dark. .Hey, I’m all for them keeping them in their lines, I used to use them – I LOVED them & used them all…. I felt bad for the darkies….. they had no fun/no variations…just ask me -- I’ve been the same dumbass Level 8-Red my whole life. . . with a few attempts at other colors, they just look weird on me. I understand boredom in hair color like no body’s business, I’m the queen of boring hair color….its sitting right on my shoulders day in and day out!

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The DUSK series has a couple super stars though. If I had to pick #1 I would say it is #3 MOKA. I will give it to the Head of Vidal Sassoons Color Department she told me that MOKA was the most gorgeous, the most rich and the most beautiful Darkest Brown on the planet….gave hair the most shine….and was just stunning. She was dead right, so remember that boys and girls.

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HOW IT WORKS

Gray Hair – Achieves a translucent type of coverage, allowing a shiny transparent effect.

VIRGIN & TINTED – Supplies a sophisticated shimmer of color.

BLEACHED & Highly Tinted—Use with caution. This is the wrong palette for very light hair, I’m sure you can see why ( its way damn too dark! ha ha)

So…my favorite 2 mixtures in the DUSK series are:

#1) Colorissimo 4N – 1 oz. + RenColor #03 MOKA – 1oz.. + + 2 OZ. of 20V Developer ……………The 4N would supply the Gray coverage, or even if you didn’t have gray, this is still the most gorgeous combo.. The color were made to work together like this and when you DO use them to work this way you get the perfect color. For years companies made “Liquid” hair color the way RenColor is made, they found that Liquid hair color imparted an incredible amount of SHINE…BUT, it did not cover Gray as well. So they had to go back to the Tube –(Pigment-rich) Hair Color for that. This is why you mix the 2 together. For both tremendous Gray coverage, and shocking SHINE! Lasts longer than any other line . . . believe I have tried. Renbow is not easy to get, the company has never been into the whole “marketing and sales” like most companies. So I have tried many times to find someone else with as good of coverage/shine/ all of it.

As I have said many times. . . Renbow, USA has been bought out by Paul Mitchel in 2009 . . . . So we will see what happens in this next upcoming year.

#2) Colorissimo 5N (or 6N) – 1/2 oz. + Ren Color 06 Velvet Brown – 1 1/2 oz. ++ 2 oz. of 20V Developer

DAWN…….An intermixed based of Violet and Blue Pigments. These are some great tones for all that brass, blorange, gold and on and on that you all know too well. I know they may not look to delightful on the page, but remember, you use hair color to fight (to oppose) the unwanted tones you have in your hair. Its funny when you are at my stage, I just LOVE the oddest colors, and it wasn’t until KillerStrands until I realized how truly funny the colors I love …are. Remember Renbow is the only company I know of that uses blue/violet for their ASH’s - - the way it is meant to be. ( American companies use green/ grey…YUK!….What color does “grey get rid of?) I

I mean look at the SILVER MINK, how absolutely gorgeous it is. Plus it is a permanent hair color + MOONLIGHT is WHITE…I call it Marilyn Monroe Blonde…Even 25 Opaline is yummy. Dawn and SunRise are my favorite groups…

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I started to think whether or not I had ever used one of these colors alone…I”m pretty sure I have not. Where with the DUSK group I have used all of them alone - - these tones are all a case for canceling “unwanted tones”

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HOW IT WORKS

The Dawn series is especially suited for neutralizing unwanted yellow to gold or orange tones.

GRAY HAIR…..NOT recommended for Snow WHITE or pure Gray hair, but will provide a beautiful shimmering effect on salt and pepper gray hair.

Virgin and Tinted – Provides a drabbing effect on excess yellow, gold, orange tones. An excellent series to mix with Colorissimo HIGHLIFT SERIES for one process blonding.

Bleached and Highly Tinted – A wonderful –Toner series for all Blonds. Nearly every single color creates a gorgeous effect on blonds.

In order to make it easy for you, I have added 2 new Blonding Kits – incorporating this new (to you) method of using RenColor in your Highlift blonding process.

. .There are 2 new Kits – that include RenColor (MOONLIGHT) for those that love it ( the highlift Kits are our #1 selling color ) including RenColor w/ a bit of a discount.

Its called:

1) High-Lift Twin Turbo-Kit (5 pc Kit)

Colorissimo 100A + 40V Developer………….Renbow – White Genie…………Rencolor (Moonlight 27)

AND

2) High-lift Turbo Kit (4 pc. Kit)

Colorissimo 100A + 40V Developer…..RenColor (Moonlight 27)

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I will finish this up tomorrow or Saturday. . . . . but wanted to get it started…

Something has happened to the COMMENTs on this Blogging System….they just don’t work very well anymore and I get lots of SPAM Comments, so I have to delete over 1/2 of them. ??? If you have any questions about this … please head to the GROUP and I will try to hang out there this weekend. . . .

thanks,

Killer Chemist

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?