Why the New FOAM Hair Color Will Be Disastrous

Its Not As Easy As The Hair Color Manufacturers Make It Sound

The ads – the commercials – the celebrities they use to dupe you into thinking if you use the new FOAM hair color that I have been seeing everywhere you will look like a gorgeous model. It seems the newest “wave” of boxed hair color is to offer you all this screwy “foam” application. Anything, to make it “seem” easier – quicker—& simpler to color your hair, the problem with that theory - - is that in my lifetime I have always found that taking short-cuts when trying to accomplish good quality results - - NEVER WORKS.  Anything done well and done professionally takes time, takes training and takes education. The theory of hair color application and formulation is no exception.

Just this past month I had a couple clients that came to me with boxed hair color on their hair and they wanted “out”. They felt their hair never looked shiny except for about 1 week after application, which would always compel them to want to color more frequently (sound familiar?). Can you see why that color is not advisable? With Professional Hair color, the color remains pretty much the same for 5-8 weeks depending on % of gray – porosity and the proper formulation that you mix up prior to applying ( which is why you can learn all of that in previous Posts all logged here on Killerstrands Blog).

Its why I have written this Blog, there are lessons on how to formulate your color, how to apply the color properly, how to care for the hair immediately after applying the color so that it lasts a very long time and looks as though it was professionally done. Its really not that hard. I have written this so that all of my readers can become educated on the professional method of hair coloring, please take advantage of it. The 2 girls that came to me would do what these FOAM applications are showing . . . applying your Re-touch to the entire head of hair. That is the complete WRONG way to apply a Re-touch.  What is the difference you ask?
If you have never applied hair color to your hair, you have what we call VIRGIN HAIR. Nice name , huh? Once you decide to color your hair that very first time, you will lose that term being applied to your hair ever again….unless of course you were to stop coloring and/or have the colored part of your hair cut off. Please do not look at that as a bad thing. I honestly and truly feel that using the hair color of todays technology (professional color only I’m referring to) your hair will be in better condition, will feel and style ‘better’ than VIRGIN hair and last but not least will give your color the boost it needs to look rich, healthy, and gorgeous. I had so many of my clients that would have me tint their hair the color it was, just to get those extra features I describe. Even I color my hair the color it is, and I am one of those rare birds that has no gray at all. I do it for the advantages today’s color brings hair. Remember though, you will NOT HAVE this great experience from Boxed Hair Color. Especially when they promote you apply the hair color to the entire head of hair at each application, which for many of you is about every 4-6 weeks.

To educate new Cosmetologists we teach the different types of hair color:

• Temporary Color
• Semi-Permanent Color
• Demi-Permanent Hair Color
• Permanent Hair Color

Lighteners or bleaches is really a hair color process that defies these 4 categories… which should really be taught that way and it isn’t. Many people (including many licensed hair stylists) think that going Blond or Lighter is an actual Hair Color – when in fact it is the diffusion of the natural color pigment, you already have, from the hair.

Now from talking to many of you ‘out there’, the number one mistake I think these kits mislead you with is that every time you color your hair they make it seem as though you should color ALL of the hair. When, in fact, you should only be re-tinting the “new growth”. There couldn’t be a bigger mistake, and that rule holds true for both those of you going “lighter” as in High-lift blonding, going darker and covering gray. The goal when touching up your color for the month should be to color the NEW GROWTH….ONLY! 

Coloring the entire head of hair with hair color is wrong, so if that is the case then how could those foam hair color kits possibly work, correctly? They are applied in a manner such as shampoo, which is what they are trying to entice you with “ just shampoo the foam into your hair and POOF your hair color is done. Yet, if the proper method is to only color the “new-growth” – how could you possibly do that with a big bowl of FOAM?
If you are going blond and using bleach <> that would be just disastrous . . which is why most of you with highlights have ended up with an entire head of blond. Instead of just touching up the new growth . . . a large majority of hair stylists will apply bleach to the entire head of hair so there is a large amount of “overlapping” involved. Once you have lightened strands with bleach, lightening them repeatedly will bring one thing - - - BREAK-AGE ! ! The thought of how many of you get duped into that scenario really makes my blood pressure rise . . . I want to empower you with the knowledge of how and why this should not be done so you can understand the concepts and ask questions of your Colorist, or even better color your own hair so YOU have control of your own haircolor.
If you do go to a Colorist, there is not one thing wrong with asking how they plan on applying your re-touch. Ask them, make them answer you so you understand. Come armed with the knowledge that there is no reason for them to apply foils on top of foils when your hair is already very very blond….. be clear and tell them you only want the base colored (or roots) nothing else. 
There are 2 reasons they want to give you an entire head of foils. . .  and they do not want to just do a few random set of foils on the base ONLY:

1. Money ………they get the most money out of doing a “full-set” of foils
2. Skill………….They do not even understand what I am explaining to you here. This is more common than one would think.

So, my goal here is to educate as many of you as I can so that you will be armed with the proper haircolor formulation knowledge possible  - - that way you can exit out of any mistakes you may have now . . . and begin coloring your own hair to the level you want it. I promise it is very very possible, and not even that hard . . . just begin reading the BLOG from the very first day --- forward . . . You will be surprized at how smart you will become. I have watched many a person become a Crib Colorist of epic proportions . . . look at all of my managers . . . they amaze me.

‘Sulfate-free’ Shampoo. . .the latest “buzz” word?

My adventures in trying to find new products to carry in Killerstrands “the store” this past week, were pretty much comical. 
  
I called the Rep.of a certain line of hair care products I had my eye for some time, but was concerned with the ingredient list of the shampoos. I knew I liked the styling products - - - but was concerned with them not putting the ingredient list of their shampoos on the bottle. I do now and will always . . . put a lot of effort into finding just the right products to carry in the Killerstrands Store. From the very beginning of this whole whirlwind named “Killerstrands”… I have ALWAYS… sold and recommended products that I myself use and recommend to my clients. I know the gluttony of products out there and I receive many emails about trying to figure out which ones to purchase for each of your different issues with your hair.

Its not easy, and at best - -  it is very confusing - - to know which one you should pick. That was something I truly wanted to address with the products we offer in our store…I aimed for having the first online store with exclusively SULFATE-FREE Shampoos…because that is how much I believe in them.I began my testing of that ingredient nearly 10 years ago - - and proved whole heartedly to myself and my clients that was an ingredient that should NOT be in any product you put on your hair. I could carry the newest - - hippest line of products to make more $$$, but I want you to know THAT is not what is the most important thing to me. Integrity in an online store? Yes - -  so far!

I also don’t carry Flat Irons… ( when I could make a decent chunk of change carrying them) …  because I want to express how harmful that Styling Tool is. Think of how that Tool works, you place a section of dry hair between two scalding hot plates ( most are 400-450 degrees ) PRESS them hard together and then slide the hair down and through. Then, most of you will do it again immediately following that. Have you ever burned 1 hair, smelled that smell . . . or accidentally lit your eyebrows/lashes on fire…heat is the single worst application that can be applied to the hair and I do my best to try to teach you how to care for your hair with as little as possible.
If you look at a hair strand magnified, you will see the cuticle which looks like scales almost… when this strand is flat ironed the process smoothes down those scales which then makes the hair straight and shiny  - - but when it is done repeatedly, you actually fry those scales so they will no longer lie flat they actually become frazzled and makes the ability to lie flat ( which makes for shiny hair) - - impossible.

Blow Dryers are the best tool for straightening/ styling the hair. Its the fact that the heat is dispersed with ”Air” - - that makes it less harmful for the hair. I mean, NO HEAT is the best solution. But I found I couldn’t expect all of my clients to just walk out their front door with ZERO options for styling the curly/frizzy/unstylish hair they were born with.  That just wasn’t fair. So what I do now is offer up as many tools and tricks I have found that are just coming on the market place that will deal with a Blow dryer . A round brush and a blow dryer is a million times better than a Flat Iron, and yes I know it is harder to manipulate… but again - -  what about the HEALTH –OF--YOUR—HAIR? ? Another option? in exchange for Flat Irons . . is our Thermo-straightening brush (used with a blow dryer) – and now we have a brand new brush that a couple of staffers “ LOVE”…
 
 
Maybe none of you really understand my whole theory of how to get and “keep” a healthy – strong – and shiny head of hair. But it really is summarized by the 14 steps of 10,000HEADS which is listed on the front page of the store. Everyone “can” have a great head of hair, yes, it takes work . . . but in my opinion all things wonderful do take work to achieve.
There are many lines I could carry, but I always want to keep the quality of products we carry – high. I research and test potential lines completely before they ever show up on the Killerstrands online store. I am very picky in the products I recommend, there are a zillion and one hair care lines out there to choose from, and finding the proper line to offer you all can be tricky. Many times I wonder what in the world possesses someone to want to start one more hair care line in such a cluttered category
... At times I will suspect it has to do with big headed hair stylists who think once they make a name for themselves – to plaster that across a shampoo bottle . .  . and then POOF they are millionaire's. Again my concern comes from no one caring enough to really watch over the ingredient lists in their new product line. It just surprises me that I have been talking bad about this one ingredient ( SLS ) for nearly a decade now, and finally people are listening. Why didn’t anyone else figure this out ? You know how I did? When the youth of Malibu began sitting in my chair and complaining of hair loss. . . I really began to pay attention. Why? Because they were so young. . .so I had to figure out a common denominator that both young and middle and old were using that caused everyone to have hair loss. It took about a year to come to the conclusion and test my theory about Sulfates.
 
When I contacted this Rep this week about carrying his line of products. . I asked about Sulfates in the shampoos. He tells me . . .” oh, that is just a buzz word right now. . . that will go away soon” . I was stunned - - then he says, “ our chemist tells us that Sodium Lauryl Sulfates are fine and it is just a fad word flying around right now. As stunned as I was, I said, “ tell me, how many heads of hair does your chemist do on a daily basis ???     There was complete silence on the other end….complete silence. Chemists deal with chemicals, they do not deal with “people”. Ever met a chemist ? They are a different breed, and I can tell you they do not get into chemistry to be around people. . . . quite the opposite. They run their tests on a group of “test subjects” . .  that they see for a day  - - or maybe for a week. But certainly not on an ongoing basis and frequently like I see hundreds of clients that I see repeatedly.   So I just do not think they have the experience with the amount of heads of hair that I do. Cosmetic Chemist – Hair Stylist is what you need to make decisions about the Ingredient List of your products.

Just know that every product you purchase with us has been combed over and through to make sure it has the most healthy and “good-for-your-hair “ ingredient list possible.
                 Killer Chemist

Hairy Carry for New Hair

Wouldn’t You Just DIE to get a New Hair Style?
Checking out the new colors and cuts for Spring, I just had to bring you some of the ones I felt were inspirational. These are always ahead of their time, but I hope many of you will consider changing your style, changing your color - - “change” can be so good for the soul. Try it.
Probably my favorite category is this first section that shows
flashes of Pastel Krazy Kolors:

Pastel Pink Slices in the Underside Application

Lavender Paint Drips applied Asymmetrically

Another take on the “Paint Drip” Technique – I just adore all of these and wish I was back in the Salon so I could do my own take on this theme. I sure miss that end, I did one of the K/S Staff members hair this past weekend, so it got my juices rolling again. We are using VANISH to remove a couple years of Boxed Hair color that turned her hair / & more specifically her ends… black. I was explaining to her that (she’s new with us) switching from doing hair in a Salon atmosphere in a “hands-on” fashion versus doing hair over the Internet where it is all in words using descriptions and explanations…was a very strange & scary experience.
At first I thought it could not be accomplished correctly, but then I had a few die-hard Crib Colorists prove to me it could very well work….as long as you, the public, would take a little time in learning the LEVEL System of Hair Color Formulation.
So now, there are many “new” people to Killerstrands and for those of you who are…my best suggestion to you and to everyone is to skim/read the entire BLOG. Begin on April 15 2007, and read every post that interests you. . .and pertains to your hair.  Marking the Posts that you will want to come back to and re-read. If you do this you will learn how to formulate and take care of your own hair color like a pro. I have watched hundreds – maybe even thousands of people - - learn to properly color their hair and the thrill that comes with that knowledge is electric. Its terrible that I have become a bit immune to the success stories, but I promise I read every single one and cherish them all.
This Tip Drip technique of Color really has been revitalized by Nicky Minaj and a little by Lady Gaga, which is how hair trends get started.





In the UK where the art of hair is the highest and the most well respected, they refer to that piece of hair across your forehead as the “FRINGE” ….and NOT BANGS. I trained an entire arsenal of clients in Malibu to use the term as I will try to train all of you . . . Regardless , isn’t the Fringe in the above Photo just completely awesome? Having a Fringe this spring and summer will be the one sure thing.



Reds can be smashing, and with todays technology they can last a super long time, you can always help them along a little by ordering GLIMMER from our store. Glimmer is a Custom-made colored Conditioner for you. You may request just about any color of the rainbow, so far no one has stumped me ( although there is always a first time). You receive 8 oz of your particular requested color, which is helpful in 2 aspects. . . to either fight off the annoying DURP you may have….(like using a violet-tinted Glimmer to correct brassiness) OR to enrich your present color. You may order a Copper-Red….which would enrich the above 2 heads of hair in Fresh-As-New-Color.  Reds tend to fade easier than other colors. In this instance you would be using GLIMMER to enhance your existing color. This trick can be done with virtually ANY color of the rainbow. I’m a “color-a-holic” always have been  - - so I just thoroughly enjoy the art of color in hair - -  in art, in anything.

This is where ART Imitates Life. . .This new style is coined the “BALLERINE BUN” and is taken from the movie – BLACK SWAN. You will be seeing Buns on everything from the Boardwalk, to the Runway, to the ____________


Ballerina Buns are very hip and who doesn’t like this to be “in” and “cool” ! Its so easy to do and can be accomplished with a lot of different hair lengths.
Look for the next hair trends in Music, Movie’s, Museums and Movie Stars was 1 part of a sign I had over my Stations in the Salon…. the other one said: “ Not All Hair Can Be All Colors ”. I had that there for people to learn a couple solid HONEST principals to watch out for throughout their lifetime in the hair world. Education is the key to most facets of life you encounter, I completely believe in taking the extra time it takes to learn about a subject “such as hair” than to just try to Bullshit your way through. For one thing, in the Hair universe. . . . you WILL destroy your hair. Many of you are here because that is where you are today. I also believe:
ALL HAIR CAN BE RESTORED TO HEALTHY, STRONG SHINY HAIR . . . if you follow 10,000 HEADS - 86% of you will see tremendous, shocking, positive results within 90 days. Again, provided you follow and live by the 14 Steps. In 180 days you will become transformed and will begin to believe me, my rules and my suggestions. This protocol did not begin with the beginning of this Blog 4 years ago. . . it began in the Salon over 15 years ago.

I have been looking for a couple new lines to carry for the store, but with my criteria concerning “INGREDIENT LISTS” – it just does give a large selection…..but  I have found a couple hopefuls . . . we are testing them as I speak. Fingers crossed.






Here is Nicki Manaj and her various hair colors and styles over the last year………and here - - -  is what the result is from her putting on that array of hair colors. . . .

Killer Chemist