October 14, 2015

Porosity & Texture = How They Effect Hair Color {done}

You know when you read the directions that come from all of the various manufacturers on their own hair colors. . . . what type of hair do you think they are giving you directions for?


They already have to write directions in 12 different languages! 

The directions on a box of professional Hair Color only writes the directions for MEDIUM Texture and NORMAL porosity.......what about the rest of us. 
I find very few "average" people now-a-days......they are there somewhere but they don't happen to visit this Blog or shop in our store !

In order for the color to look beautiful and shiny and to last........... you must accommodate these issues in all of the factors that go into Coloring your hair correctly ! The diameter of the strands (texture) and the condition of the cuticle (porosity) are affected by how hair color absorbs into the hair.

Texture refers to the diameter of the individual strands.....
Is yours fine???  medium??? or coarse??? 

The greater the diameter of the hair strand the coarser the hair......and those are things you cannot change about your hair. So please be aware of which type of hair you have so you can make adjustments accordingly.

The less the diameter, the finer the hair. 
 Fine hair has a thinner cortex so therefore is penetrated easier ( by hair color), it is lightened easier. Fine hair also FADES faster..........Coloring is faster as well.The finer the hair the faster it absorbs the hair color ! So...yes, you could cut 5-10 minutes off processing time. Some people have extremely fine hair (Meryl Streep) and in that case you would only want to process 20-25minutes. But that type is quite rare.

Coarse hair has a thick cortex. Color Chemicals must penetrate more mass and lift more of your own natural pigment........so the whole process takes longer, using a stronger developer and choosing an ashier formula many times is wise to compensate for the stronger DURP (Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment).

Porosity is the ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture......another word for Porosity is "Condition".
Degrees of Porosity:
  • Resistant
  • Normal Porosity
  • Over-porous
So when someone asks you if your hair is in good condition they really technically are referring to your porosity. If you have poor porosity there is an old trick which truly helps the simple step of simply shampooing it.

Oil Pre-Wash with Gleam to turn back time in your hair's condition

If your hair is at all porous - even just a tiny, little bit, if it ever gets tangly or poofy or frizzy and seems like it needs weight, if washing it makes it seem to float in the air or if the ends of your hair seem to get wispy and disappear, oil pre-wash treatments can help. Oil pre-wash treatments add flexibility, softness and "weight" to hair. And when you think of "well moisturized" hair, you are referring to a number of qualities, two of which are flexibility and softness.

Here's the deal:
You know how washing your hands too often makes them chapped - even if you don't use soap? Washing your hair ultimately dehydrates it too unless your hair is tremendously low porosity. By that I mean the cuticles are un-damaged and in such pristine condition that they don't let water in at all. Porosity is a surface thing. Oils have other great effects like making hair soft and flexible - those are partly related to porosity. Even low porosity hair can get dried out with too much washing or dry air or a lot of sunshine. I still say of all our products the one that makes the most significant difference is OVERNIGHT Oil treatments  and Pre-Wash Treatments.

Any oil will keep the water out of your hair for a little while and that is great. Many oils can surround any chipped and broken places in your hairs cuticle covering, giving you better protection.

  Gleam contains the absolute best oils for most people's hair because they "waterproof" the inner part of your hair that swells. If we can keep water from getting into our hair and swelling it up, it won't end up waterlogged and the cuticles will chip off less and we'll keep our lovely proteins and everything that keeps out hair strong from escaping down the drain.

Rose Hips Seed Oil
Abyssinian Oil
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Argan Oil
 ............are the top 5 oils out of 13 we have in GLEAM and that is why it rocks!

AS I've said many times before....all YOU have to do is figure out your own hair and these facts about your own hair .........its the professional's that must know and understand every type of hair in order to have a wonderful outcome - every single time they create a new hair color project  !!!

1 comment on "Porosity & Texture = How They Effect Hair Color {done}"
  1. Even though most of us aren't professional hair stylists, I'd hazard a guess and say that once we begin to have awesome-looking hair our friends and family start asking us for advice. At least that's been my experience, and maybe I just know a lot of people who are lazy/resistant to finding information on their own or actually looking at the sources being recommended, maybe I just am far too helpful and willing to get involved. Either way it ends up being a situation where learning a bit beyond exclusively what applies to my own hair and there's a lot to be gained from tapping into the knowledge within a peer group. Love what you're doing for us 'regulars' without pro training!


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