August 27, 2014

Melanin - and Why This Concept is Important to Learn About Hair

We are changing back to LANZA, Schwarzkopf, Wella, & Kaaral for Hair color, I just completed the LANZA page and I will fix the Kaaral page next week. This is great news for all the present redheads and people considering red hair. Kaaral has more reds than any line we have ever seen ! I tested a new line that just came out out called OYA and frankly it did not compare to the lines we carry. They all have recently tweaked their formulas adding violet into their Ashes, which is all colors that 'end' in "1".  Have you noticed that I haven't really spoken too much about that BUT. . . . in every color line they are all getting on board and realizing the advantages of the LEVEL System so now all colors in all lines have the Same number for the same Tone.

We all now know the Level System:
Level 1 
Black Hair

Level 12 
is Platinum Hair!

and all the colors in between are obvious, you just go up a little bit or down a little bit for all the Levels in between. We have many many Level Charts in the past pages of this Blog, just put that title in the SEARCH BAR and many references will show up. But, come to think of it... that sounds like a good idea, its time for an updated version of the Level Chart and now a Version of the Tones" (which are the numbers "AFTER" the Dash or the dot in a Hair Color Title on the side of the Box.  
I'm not too sure if I reviewed this as much as it is important and will make your life easier, when you step out to become a Crib Colorist ! 

Here is the side of some Kenra boxes, just happens to be their new metallic's, which I did some strand tests a few Posts back...just FYI ....

But the main point of this photo is to explain what all lines are doing to make it easier for you, in figuring out your Color formula's, which is every one's main problem...pretty much.
This particular color doesn't have a DASH -- or a POINT . in between the Level and the tone....but because no one else has a metallic line they are making it easy by using the first 2 letters of the word. SM or Silver Metallic.


 This a photo of some Schwarzkopf boxes
you see 5-3.......that is Level 5 Medium Brown  - (dash)  3 , 3 always stands for "Gold"
so if you see a Level 5-3 it will always be approx.Medium Brown then with a 3 - Gold TONE to it as you see here and on and on...

Next is an important Concept no matter how weird the words sound, don't let them scare you....... I will always try to break down a subject and make it easier to understand .

What makes the hair have Color so that it CAN Change to New Colors... and why?
This was an excellent recent question from a gal in our group. Remember, I am happy to tackle any subject you would like me to review in Hair Health & Hair Color, just email the question to : color . I t may not happen right away but eventually there WILL be a post regarding whatever you ask !

The molecules in the hair are set in a specific pattern in VIRGIN hair.
Say you applied Demi-permanent color with 13 Volume last December.
At that point, those molecules - change - somewhat and remain like that, even when the color washes out, those molecules do not go back to the beginning pattern NO MATTER WHAT.
As far as the color of hair?
All virgin hair is the result of the pigment inside the cortex called MELANIN. I've known that word for a lifetime, asking my mom "why do I have freckles"..........she would tell me that my melanin came in my body different than the rest of the did not give overall color it instead, formed spots of melanin. So I really disliked that word as a child, I would imagine a lot of redheads might. ! ! !  

I have since forgotten about it . But it relates to this subject today because melanin is what colors the skin, eyes AND hair in the body !
Melanin are tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that gives color to hair.
BUT....BUT,  there are 2 different types of melanin: 
  • eumelanin AND 
  • pheomelanin
eu-melanin= provides brown & black color to hair
pheo-melanin= provides red- copper & yellow

BUT, DURP is not really pheomelanin

As I've said many times
there can be 8 females......... all the same age, with the same texture, color - Virgin Level 7 hair........ lined up ( for example)...
Then I mix up 1 mixture exactly the same of 8 - Neutral Violet and 20Volume. So the virgin hair will be lifted 1 level from the developer and 1 level from the color.
Apply the color wait 1 hour
Rinse, INTENSIVE, and dry.

Will they all look the same?
every single one of them will look different and that is because of the unique melanin & DNA to every person on the planet.
So the DURP will be the unique colors that remain AFTER hair color has lifted out color to achieve the newly desired color.

pheomelanin provides red-copper & yellow hues which are present in all colors apart from Level 9 - 12 + Gray & white hair.  
Even black hair has red-copper & yellow pheomelanin, so I hope this makes a  little more sense now.
So, if dark hair has all those colors in it, it makes it a little easier to comprehend how all those funny DURPS - Dominant.Underlying.Remaining.Pigment appear as hair color is used, doesn't it?
Will it should silly !

thank you one and all, and with fall upon us, please let me know if you need any topics about all the new hair colors coming up.....discussed !

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