September 12, 2007

Bleach For The Stars / The Quest for Platinum Hair - Part 1

Part 3 (final) of the ONLINE Directions :  "HOW-TO-BLEACH-YOUR-HAIR : White (not yellow) Leaving Hair In Excellent Condition

The Quest for Platinum (part 3)
11.)Determine from a color chart or as best you can 15 minutes before the time is done, you are looking for a pastel yellow-white....the one major problem made by people bleaching hair is... that it is yellow. What does being yellow indicate? .... they have taken the bleach off too early... or that it was put on once....and not put on again. Many times...let me say, most times, the bleach needs to be applied twice. If the client has very light hair to begin with, Level 7 is the breaking point, a Level 8 would be darkest you can be to get away with one bleach is a pretty good guess.

Remember the porosity, the texture of the hair have a lot to do with how fast hair lightens...so it will be different all the time. You need to understand that person A with Level 8 VIRGIN Hair and person B with Level 8 VIRGIN hair can both have completely different lift speeds. Person A has straight, very porous fine - level 8 hair...while Person B has straight - non porous - coarse level 8 hair.....with my experience I will guess that person A will be light enough when all is said and done and person B will need an extra 30 to 60 minutes. 

Just know that when hair is wet with this product on it....it will never look totally white,EVER...so do not look for totally white, what it looks like is a pale yellow-white, when it is dry it turns to white. Why do you not want it to be totally white? It will be over done....the product will be on too long creating too much damage. I do not mean to sound confusing, I mean to try to teach you everything I know through words, I want you to understand this process through reading words as much as possible.

12.)About 15 minutes before you think it will be finished, remove the cotton from the scalp area. Apply the lightener to the hair near the scalp with the 1/8-1/4" partings, very very quickly...(figure 16-54). If at this point you are running out of bleach prepare a fresh batch - at this point I would make up a batch of regular bleach - using 40 volume developer, to help speed things up.You have all the hair covered in the oil bleach so the oil is on all of your strands in order to protect it. The cuticle opens and lets the OIL IN....which helps the condition and controls the damage to the hair. If you just have some spots or stubborn areas put the 40 volume bleach on them and work it in with your fingers, rubbing it into the hair strands briskly and hard with your fingers..




Process and perform your strand test until the entire shaft has reached the desired stage of pale yellow/white.

13.)Rinse the hair thoroughly with tepid water. Shampoo gently with a Sodium Lauryl Sulfate--FREE shampoo.

14.) Apply "After-Treatment" of choice for a minimum of 5 minutes to get the pH back to normal.{Remember Wella's "In-Depth" is only $4.00 at Sally's and is an EXCELLENT Deep conditioner + an "after-treatment" as well}....this little step is one of those tricks that I added that makes a huge difference in this process, many discard it...don't! You want the best tricks? Use them. You will see why in the condition of your hair.

The idea is to perform only the necessary steps,in a Salon setting you are in a massive hurry,in my days in Salons,there was never enough time for people that wanted their hair done, ever...yet doing this step was one I would never axe. Only the necessary ones are on here I promise you.

Re- condition with the best conditioner you have for a couple minutes.

15.) Towel Dry the hair....under a cool dryer.....find out which way your toner needs the hair its about 50-50 1/2 the toners want your hair damp the other 1/2 want it dry.... if dry....be sure to dry very very gently and on a lo-warm temp. treat the hair with care its just gone through Hell and back.





16.) Examine scalp for any abrasions (See Figure 16-55)  Analyze the condition of the hair. Proceed with toner application.
{ as a warning the color of this is too yellow (Fig.16-55), I would apply bleach one complete more time for how this looks.... it is in the yellow stage..... and needs to be AT LEAST in the yellow/white stage - - - see the DeColorization chart I posted... the lightest says "pale Yellow"...I call it :  Yellow/White...because it is ...Yellow White } the Decolorization chart shows what stages the hair goes through as it loses its color with bleach on it. As a Colorist we are trained to use the word "lightener" in front of clients...talking to each other we say "bleach" that's what it is and its easier
when bleaching the first few times....Click on it and Print it out....save for reference..
At this point you are completely done with the Bleaching process....your hair will feel kind of funny.....it will smell kind of funny...I LOVE IT ! ! ! .oh and why do I like this procedure better than any other in the world of hair???? Did you figure it out?


Its because it is the one single procedure that changes the hair the most....at times going from black to white...especially when applying to Hispanics or Asians. Also when it is done like this....with a gorgeous icy beige toner...there is nothing more beautiful. You will see once you do this.. You basically are changing hair from 'black' to 'white'....the more change I can do,the more I feel like a true artist within the world of hair. The very first bleach I did was to an Asian girl from Pepperdine College, she had come to Sassoon to get her hair done for free.... we had her for 8 hours,that was the penalty for "free hair" 16 years ago. I can't believe I can still remember that she was an Advertising Student so she was an ARTIST herself.....she let me put a 2 inch band (surrounding her entire hairline) of PURE White Hair so she had a GORGEOUS white frame around her face and then I took her Level 2 darkest brown hair and made it Level 1 > black-blue...so it was the complete opposite ends of the spectrum...as my VERY FIRST bleach. I cannot believe my mentor ( Lucie Doughty) had me do that first, but as she used to say, " it IS only hair". She had this great attitude toward hair which took me about 10 years to acquire, I had always held my hair dear to my heart....but as I matured and as I had quite a few severe tragedies happen in life...it finally hit me.....it TRULY is . . . . . . .ONLY Hair! Its the one object on the body that WILL grow back....!


Now find your Toner...this is as important as the bleach. 
You never want to leave it Un-toned that is like making a birthday cake and not frosting it. You can eat the cake and I suppose some would consider it done, but my Lord how much better is it WITH the Frosting!!

ITS THE BEST PART, just like the frosting is!

(Toners are tomorrow)

**** Just a note...I have gone through and added a few very important points to both posts that I both forgot and changed my mind on, so be sure to re-read them...if you have gone through the headache of reading all this. Sorry its so long, I wanted to cover everything....and I know I will still have questions.....

PLEASE >ASK ALL THE QUESTIONS YOU WANT....I WANT TO SEE IF I HAVE MADE THIS CLEAR ! ! ! ! and what I might have forgotten or what you do not understand.... I want you all to fully understand it.....PLEASe . . . ASK, ANYTHING ON YOUR MIND.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB "QUESTION"
You may always "ask questions" . . . .

26 comments:

  1. Are you going to cover bleaching non-virgin hair for those of us who have been dying for quite some time? :)

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  2. Is oil bleach effective for hair that has been previously color treated? I have been using demis for a few years(had short hair, grown out past shoulders), but they were in the reds family. My last coloring was 2 weeks in, and I used an ash based toner about 2 levels higher than my natural, and it lifted my color and didn't do a great job of neutralizing the red - it looked more orangey instead. So, I got the blue/violet based toner (color gems) and it still didn't do much. So, I highlighted my hair using bleach, and retoned my entire head with the ash(green base) to help neutralize overall, it seems like my hair is a combo of orange/reds. I am thinking its best to start over and bleach my whole head, then do toner and lowlights of an ash tone to fix this and start over. I only did partial highlights so my hair is pretty healthy still. My hair looks more golden and too warm for my taste - I used the color gems products in both the natural(blue/violet) and ash(green) to help my hair in the lightest level(10) just to tone, but I'll be darned that it lifted the root color!!! I wanted ashy brown level 4(which was my starting level with the reddish/auburn tint to it thanks to demis)with ash highlights, but its more of a level 6 brassy base with a level 5 back of my head with a level 8 highlights all over. I am pushing 40 and cannot pull off the super blonde look like I did in my 20's. Do I lowlight it with permanent and use foils when the roots come in? or still use demi(if you can recommend something I can purchase at Sally's that would be great). I am soo mad that I didn't let the demi wash out more or use something to remove the reddish tones. my hair is VERY porous, however due to the demi build up, its more of a challenge. Thanks for listening - I love your site!!

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  3. Ashleigh,
    Yes, mamn. Bleaching previously treated hair will be next.... as soon as I totally complete this. Is that you Ashleigh? I am so behind in my emails...have you made up your mind? Well, this is fine, now you have the proper directions...so you can see the difference. Do you still want the other bleach?
    thank you for your questions
    keep them coming,
    Killer Chemist

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  4. Please, I need a name...so I can at least "try" to keep your case straight in my head. I have many many people emailing, so now I am keeping track of the cases with names...in an attempt to help me keep them straight.

    Wow, you have quite a few mistakes in that post.
    I need to do a better job of clarifying the different types of Color I guess.
    Right off the bat, its late and don't have time to look up my definition of a toner...BUT....a TONER DOES NOT LIFT.....a toner is put on with never more than 18 Volume Peroxide....usually 10 Volume. A toner is probably not anything you are buying... i DO NOT RECOGNIZE THE NAMES YOU ARE QUOTING... what company makes them?
    10 Volume Peroxide does NOT LIFT (unless it is used with bleach).

    All the standard RULES have been changing lately, so the steadfast rules are being altered, which makes them difficult to teach.

    It used to be a toner was either semi permanent(no peroxide)therefore deposited color only.
    Or a color and 10 Volume.

    You need to review the volume's of peroxide.....
    and also the TYPES of Color.
    I want to be able to teach everyone to understand this. I never spent time writing this down, which makes this a challenge for me...I use to teach other hair stylists but they had their license ( so were familiar with terms at least) PLUS they were sitting in the same room as I was...this is so much harder not being able to show you by having have a head of hair in front of me.

    That's why the Video's are a good idea, I'm just not there yet...its coming, but not for a bit.

    After I get through the 2 Instructions of Bleaching Virgin Hair and Bleaching Color Treated Hair - Blonde.
    I will go through much more thoroughly the different "types of Color" -
    1) Temporary Color
    2) Toners
    3) Semi Permanent Color
    4) Demi Permanent Color
    5) Permanent Color
    6) Lighteners/Bleaches
    7) High Lift Blondes

    I get quite a few questions and comments about "High Lift Brunettes"..... there is NO SUCH THING... a ligh lift blonde is Level 11 and level 12 Blonde.....
    how could there be a Level 11 and level 12 Brown?????Brown is too dark....
    Now because you have taken the time to learn levels....you understand that don't you all ???
    Boy I hope so....
    So many of you seem to understand the LEVEL SYSTEM....which is GREAT...
    ...and the different "Volumes of Peroxide"

    Anyway...yes OIL bleach works on anything regular bleach works on, people misunderstand it, which I use to use as my own little secret...as My blondes turned out better than every other hair Stylist.... you've seen them on magazine covers...and TV shows.... and no one ever knew why...my bleached blondes looked so healthy. Remember, there are a lot of HOT SHOT Hair Stylists out here in LA, they could all make blondes out of anyone..the way I found to be different was(2 ways) to always have the clients hair in SUPREME condition so they could change it often and to use my case of over 75 toners for blondes including 6 different Silvers and a host of other pastels that no one had.....it was very appealing to hollywood hot shots, so my plan worked. I never considered myself in competition with any of them...I had way more tricks than anyone from the marvelous people I mentored under at Vidal Sassoon, who are the best in the world.

    Your Post confuses me and I would like to straighten it out and explain it so you understand.

    Can I print it out and then address each topic that you talk about and circle it....followed by my explanation.... and then scan and post it so every one can see....You are not the only one that is not grasping the concept...many people are not. So I want to work at clearing the UN-CLEAR parts up for EVERYONE....

    would that be OK for you?
    YOur questions are common... I am blowing it and not explaining some things clearly enough I can sure see that.
    Would that be OK with you? Or would you prefer I just clarify it to you? I know as soon as I get my video camera figured out it is going to help somewhat.... when I can explain and point....to some things...even if it is a dolls heads...I spent 6 months one time working on nothing but doll's heads...I wish I could get everyone to purchase a dollhead so they could experiment.
    I guess no one is into it that much!
    what do you say? its really up to you and neither way will upset me...I'm fine with whatever you decide....
    killer chemist
    Dakota

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  5. Dakota,
    This is the previous poster that was anon, that you said has done many mistakes. This is in detail what I have done to my hair in the past month.
    This is my hair history:
    1. Level 4-5 Brown, used Clairol Natural Instincts, used Desert sunrise on my head since the beginning of 2007, prior to that, I used Loreal Casting in their copper color(was discontinued or I just couldn't find it anymore)
    2. End of July, did my last coloring with Desert Sunrise.
    3. 3 weeks later, I called clairol, and told them I wanted to get rid of the red(it wasn't washing out well, my hair was keeping the color). They told me to get Linen, medium ash blonde. I used it. My hair got lighter somehow, it went up 2 shades, and the reddish tones were still there, not even close to looking ash or even a neutral color!!
    4. Went and got bleach to give myself highlights, bought clairol born blonde maxi, and left it in for the maximum time of 90 mins.(did the streak type highlights). Hated the look.
    5. Got Loreal Color Gems to tone my whole head, purchsed the lightest ash blonde to maybe help with the reddish/orange tones. It muddied the highlights, but didn't do anything to help with tones.
    6. Got a frosting cap, and did the born blonde maxi again, and did more highlights all over. They turned out great, but then used Loreal Color Gems in lightest natural blonde(was informed that was a blue/violet base to cancel the red) to tone down the reddish color. It didn't do anything! It looked great when its on my head(meaning my hair looks the ash color when the product is in my hair), but when I rinsed it, it didn't do anything, just made the highlights less visible. So now my hair looks like this brassy level 6 orangey color with blonde highlights.
    9. I have been using the shimmer lights shampoo to help with the brassy tones, and it isn't really doing much.
    So, I have level 6 hair(I think because of all the highlights, it looks lighter overall in the front and sides) of an orange tone in the front and sides, and more of a level 5 in the back of my head. And my highlights are a level 8, and they look good.
    My hair has an orange cast to it where is isn't highlighted. I called Clairol and asked them about their base colors for their ash line, and they told me its a mix of the colors(green, blue, etc) and not one solid color.

    All I want is my "base" color to be more ash like, the reddish tones look like a faded orange color. I can't get rid of that color. I have even used dish soap to wash it out, and it didn't do anything.

    I know that demi's aren't supposed to lift, but the natural instincts did.
    I have not used any permanent colors to "lighten" my hair. This is why I am so mad and wrote to you, I don't undestand why in the world my hair did that. The only thing I have guaranteed is if I used bleach for the max time I get the pale yellow for blonde. Do I want my whole head blonde? Absolutely not. I want to fix my "base" color, and hopefully do it with a demi and not a permanent color. Besides, if I use a darker color it will darken the highlights and then I'd have to start all over?
    My hair isn't taking the demi's to tone down the reddish/orangey tones of the non highlighted hair.

    Hope this clarifies things. I do understand what will neutralize color(blue/violet, green) which I used both types to fix my hair problem. It did nothing, and as I look at the Natural Instincts swatch page right now, my unhighlighted hair, looks like the desert sunrise color, and the back of my head is the Spiced tea color. Its still quite red/orange. I would like to correct that, and just make it ash. Using the Loreal Color Gems has done nothing, and I have left it in for up to 25 mins each time.

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  6. Oh to clarify in step 1, my virgin hair is a level4-5 brown, and have used the demi's on it.

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  7. Martie,
    OK....I just spent an hour going over your first post and then saw you re-wrote it....
    I looked up the color gems....but that is a L'Oreal product and that is a dangerous company, they just do not care about the publics hair. they are only interested in money...i remember when my mentor was offered a job with them...and she didn't take it even though they were offering her 10 times the money she was making at the time! she said, " I would have to compromise everything I stand for" since then...I don't respect one thing that has to do with that company..so they must be lying about what is in their demi permanent package and there is nothing you can do about it. I would love to bust them. Maybe I will buy a box of that and test it myself....but anyway... That's what created your first problem it sounds like. I am going to go over your second post and try to decipher it all and will
    get back to you....OK? Just hang in there...don't do anything else. Oh and by the way the advice that Clairol gave you was "WRONG"...100% WRONG.
    So there you have it everyone...when you call CLAIROL
    THEY don't even give you the right advice. So how can you expect to accomplish this at home correctly? I can understand your frustration now...completely!
    killer chemist

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  8. Thanks Dakota, I am looking forward to your advice. All I will do at present is use the shimmer lights product to tone things down, nothing else. I am in the Los Angeles area - I wish I could afford you :(

    I cannot believe I got bad advice from these companies. At least I know now that I am not crazy and was trying to do the right thing with the toners, etc. but the products aren't what they are supposed to be! Geesh! Your advice on color correction is awesome, I just would like a product that can remove the orange/reddish tones in my "brown" areas without covering up the pretty highlights I gave myself(thank goodness that didn't go wrong!!)

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  9. Yes, it is the same Ashleigh - and yes I have made up my mind that I definitely want to go blond. While I was out the other day I bought Wellite Creme Lightener and Wella toner in Royal Blonde (I have not used either product yet, obviously). After coming home I realized it was CREME lightener and not OIL, although the box was a bit misleading since it says it contains 1 Creme OIL 4 fl. oz... I got the wrong thing, didn't I? I haven't used it though, so I suppose maybe I can return it...?? Anyway, yes, I will more than likely be needing the Phantom as well as the bleach (and did I get the wrong toner too?). Let me know how much for all of it and I can Paypal it to you. Can't wait to learn how to do this the proper way (and be blond again!!). Thanks for all your help,
    Ash

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  10. Dakota! Its Martie again... I took the plunge and decided to go blonde, this morning... All I can say is THANK YOU! My hair lifted to level 10/11 (yep!) using the Wellite (twice! geesh, that orange was stubborn!!!) and then used the wella toner in ivory lady. It looks like a beautiful ashy blonde, no yellow! In fact it was weird to see me without that yellow/orange hue, took awhile to get used to it! My hair is between my shoulder blades, and I have to say using this and the Wella in depth between the lightening and pre toning - I have never been able to run my hair comb through my hair when I "bleached" my hair in the past(the yellow days, yikes). I might do lowlights with a darker wella toner(I am burned out from experimenting right now LOL), however right now I am enjoying the change, its such a great feeling to not have that "hair dye job at home gone bad" look! I just hope my 4 month old daugher recognizes her mommy in the morning :) I wish I could show you - you'd be proud:) To go from a level 4/5 brown/demi dyed red to an ash blonde level 10/11? Who would think its possible - not without your stellar advice. Thanks so much Dakota!!

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  11. Edit last post: I meant to say lowlights with a demi color with the color charms, not a toner LOL. Its been a loooong day.

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  12. Thank you thank you Dakotah! I have been reading your blog (going all the way back to your first post) for two weeks now, taking notes and doing the math. Long story short, years of paying for double-process + highlights, and now complete poverty hits. But I bake well (another science), and love math - and your comments make sense. So I did the level calculations, bought the Clarol pro, and with the highlift 12 ash, took my level 6 roots up to a pretty good (not perfect this time!) blending into my existing highlights. THANK YOU. I did 5 different mixes of "strand-test" processes in the near-nape virgin brown I had, to see which developer and high-lift color combo worked the best, and how long I thought it would take (nearly an hour LONG) - and that wasn't long enough for my crown. Next time I'll try - maybe - the REAL bleach as I loved the light-ash tones I did get through most of my hair. (Pulled a tiny bit brassy in a few stubborn spots - hard to hit that 50% gray and virgin roots and blend with old highlights AND wipe out the orange from my expensive-hairdresser-who had a hangover & too many clients the last two times!)

    I know I am so ecstatic I sound like I am RAVING - but I am so happy. This is far, far better than I ever expected. Thank you again!

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  13. Ashleigh...
    No....I went and grabbed a box from the store room...that is exactly what it says...that bleach is great..the other one is twice as expensive and I don't know that you would notice the difference...its going to be such a difference from any other time you've done it, you will love it.
    I'm not sure which Royal Blonde you are talking about... you should be getting the blue package...that says WELLA DEMI PERMANENT Color....in 10 NA or 10A. sounds like you bought a blonde color. I can see you guys are having a hard time understanding the diffence between a toner and a color.
    A color - is a tint - is a dye.
    A Toner...is OPAQUE, it is like a nylon you slip on your leg> think of a what a beige nylon looks like slipping it on your hand or leg.......and it can only be put on top of hair that is ALREADY BLONDE.
    If you put a toner on top of brown hair .....> you would NOT see it. DO you understand why?
    Its made to "tone" blonde hair so it is too opaque & light to even show up on brown hair...it would be a waste of time, product and money...you wouldn't see any difference.
    OK I just went to the WELLA site...and they have re-done the color charts that the public buys, wow there is a lot more & better colors for you guys.Its a perfect line for everyone...I just wish they would change the name and the packaging...it looks like its made for Grandma's --- I hate that!...
    I saw your ROYAL BLONDE Toner..you bought the right product but if you want your hair to look like Gwen's you bought the wrong color. Did you see the base colors of the one you bought?Check them out>
    http://www.wellausa.com/reference/ac_usa_cons_download_5004_0_sl.pdf
    , They are Gold and Violet...you really should get T-18 WHITE LADY, the best base for bleach is a blue/violet....why? purple is opposite Yellow to kill it(neutralize it) & Blue is opposite Orange to kill & Neutralize that (orange & yellow make gold). Depends on how light you get hair with bleaching process, the less yellow the less you are going to need the super Blue/Violet bases....
    The directions are coming tomorrow...so you've got what you need....tell me what's on there now...you should be doing the shampoo train in preparation for switching colors. get on it...
    Killer Chemist
    aka
    Dakota!

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  14. Martie...WOW..!!!I can't believe you did that? YOu r crazy girl...you just color your hair at the drop of a hat...don't you? I haven't taught the color "Bleaching previously colored hair" yet...so good job. Glad to hear you like it, but the best part was your fixing the reference to a "toner"....Thank YOU, I appreciate that.
    Well, great...now ...your job is to overnight condition it, one night per week! Very important when going blonde read bac through - it explains how to do this....
    Dakota
    aka
    "Killer chemist" !

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  15. Hey Nikki,
    Thanks for joining the forum here...I wish this bloggin site had a better forum...anyway...I am soo GLAD TO hear how well this is working for you ...With Level 6 hair You are going to need Bleach for highlights... I might use a 12 ASH(which is highlift) for the darkest blonde when doing highlights(ribbons - in my world) on someone with your coloring...I would usually put in 3 blondes & 3 brunettes....or 3 & 2...I never use 1 or 2 colors always upwards of 5. So with your hair I would use
    (1)12A + 40Vol
    (2)Bleach + 10Vol.
    (3)bleach + 40Vol.
    (4)7BR +20Vol
    (5)8NBG+30Vol
    (6)10A 40Vol

    That is a very typical formula...for a Level 6 Long haired Brunette. Which is the most common hair color a woman that comes to the Salon for Color has. I HAVE NEVER WRITTEN THAT DOWN for ANYONE to see (except in my Client Notebook)...its weird writing down a longtime secret on here! Whew I broke the silence! YAHOO!!!FREEDOM!!!!!!

    Anyway don't mind me!
    I am so glad this worked for you. 12 A Only will work if you take a very skinny/thin highlight or Ribbon with that dark of hair. you cannot take a regular sized one. so that is the trick. Also you can shoot a little heat on it ( not much just get the foil hot and stop. the foil holds the heat hot for while ( which is why we use them)
    I am so very impressed that you did strand tests...VERY thorough of you...I AM blown away - my dear!
    I found a place to order human hair strands ( small ones) I'm trying to find them for both me and for you all. So if people want they can order a Level 6 human hair weft. for under $10.00. Then you can order it and test all the different colors of hair hair you want on it, before you do it to yourself.
    If you can Bake YOU can Color Hair.I am going into highlights and retouching highlights very soon. I have the desire to do so many things ...but my health doesn't always cooperate with what I want TO DO.
    Anyway thanks for hanging in there and please if you have any questions ...
    ask!
    killer chemist
    aka
    Dakota

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  16. Thank you again Dakota! I was desperate, and read up a bit on "retouch" and was scared...(hot roots, so many things can go wrong). That's why the 5 tests of time and variation! I also went to the Clairol pro site and looked at their sample pictures. That's how I found out on the high lift not to pull through to the ends in a retouch.
    I should send a picture. It isn't fabulous, but it will pass for my trip this week. And I understand about health - hubby is very ill (thus the poverty here). As a side thing, I look up items in the clinical med studies - so let me know if you want me to look for some studies for you. (Not a med person, just a good researcher). Hope your health is holding stable, and gentle hug! Maybe in 4 weeks (for my 51st bd) I can try the highlights! Should have the $ for that much product by then. I have the Clairol pro 40 developer, and a 12N. Is it too late to switch to Wella? And when you say bleach, you of course mean the oil, right? Want me to come to SCAL and let you work on me for the pictures? Hee hee. Thanks again for being so generous w/ your time and knowledge!

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  17. Nikki,
    Oh the Clairol colors are OK... that's one of the brands I bought and tested on some hair swatches to see how they work, and they worked fine..... I still have to pick Wella as the best, but Clairol's new Premium Line is OK and second best....and I have recommended it to many that can't get to Wella.....
    Developers are Interchangeable NO MATTER what the stupid companies say..so never worry about that. Peroxide is peroxide.
    For highlights you cannot use oil bleach ( unfortunately)you must use POWDER, either wellite POWDER or Clairol Powder bleach ( I can't attach photos on here...tell me if you get confused there are 3 clairol bleaches with only 1 of them being great) it seems to be a common topic today... I have a lot of people that have requested info on highlights..so I hope to get to them very soon .
    thanks for all the wishes...
    Dakota
    KILLER CHEMIST

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  18. Dakota,
    I returned the Royal Blonde toner and exchanged it for the White Lady one. While I was there, I picked up 20 vol. Developer. After I returned home and re-read the directions for the lightener I realized it says to use CLEAR Developer, whereas I bought Creme Devloper.. So I guess I will be making one more trip to the beauty supply store.. While I'm there, is there anything else I need to get? Am I going to need another box of bleach?
    I've been shampooing the heck outta my hair and have taken it from a Level 1 Blue Black to about a Level 4/5. Am I going to need to purchase the Phantom to take it all the way to platinum or will this bleach do the trick? I would like to do my hair this weekend if possible. I think the last time I colored it was approx. 8 weeks ago.
    Thanks!!

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  19. Hi Ashleigh,
    good Job....wow the shampoo train has really been working well on you, huh?- GOOD JOB, that way is so much easier on your hair. I'm glad you got it to that Level just from the TRAIN with shampoo, what is your natural Level ? I've forgotten.
    I've been trying to figure out how to put that type of info into the next POST of bleaching previously COLORED Hair...there are so many variables.You are on the right track...the idea would be to just have to use the bleach on your hair. As far as if you need 1 0r 2 boxes...? Depends on how much more colour you need to remove from your hair, how long & how thick your hair is???? If I were you I would buy another box to have on hand, they are not pricey, are they?
    I have not used WELLITE in years, so can't remember the exact consistency... I have not bought clear developer in years.... if you buy that it will be incorrct for using with regular tube colors ( too thin)...I wouldn't worry about that so much.... up to you though-creme will work.... Sounds like you won't need the Phantom but I won't know for sure till you tell me what you virgin hair color is + thickness of hair> porosity of hair>length of your hair??? . Sounds like you might be OK.... Maybe one application of phantom...then only 1 box of bleach...( which has 2 applications in it - depending on length and thickness of hair ) .
    There are no EXACTS in these cases, just "ballparks". If I were you to be safe so you are not in the middle of applying and THEN run out, I would have extra's and ask the Supply house if you can return any extra;s of any that you don't use. Either that or save it for the next time. with going this light one thing you know for sure...you WILL need re touches frequently!!!!

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  20. Dakota,

    My natural color is about a Level 5/6. I haven't seen it in years, really, but I would probably go with a 6. My hair is right above my shoulders right now. Its very fine - I was not blessed with my parent's thick, wavy hair. I got it cut not too long ago to get rid of all the damaged parts, so its really healthy now. It was so damaged before, it wouldn't hold any color.
    I'm going to go ahead and buy the other box of bleach (it's only $7) just in case - and if I don't use it I'll always have it for touch ups!!
    I'm thinking maybe one application of Phantom and one box of bleach..?? Do you want me to just Paypal the money for the Phantom to you now??

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  21. Ashleigh,
    Read the Bleach soap Cap Post(new).......if you think you still need the Phantom after Reading that let me know I will get it in the mail tomorrow...so let me know today. So you can have it quickly. All you have to do is have My Email address for Pay pal, do you just want one box of it? Its $24.00 + about 5.00 for shipping I only charge you what it costs...give me your zip code... so I can figure it out.
    Dakota
    Killer chemist

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  22. Dakota,

    I just read the bleach soap cap post and I'm thinking I would have better luck (with my hair) with the Phantom. I believe I have your email address saved. My zip code is 98203, just let me know how much and I can Paypal it to you tonight!!
    Thanks so much!

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  23. Ashleigh,
    Got hung up today and did not have a chance to get on till now... sorry.
    OK, you probably don't want to post all your info on here..
    so I need you to email me your name and address / zip code/phone#/and need you email address as well send to Killerstrands@gmail.com. I'm doing hair tonight...will get back later..Dakota

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  24. Dakota,

    Sent you my info!!

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  25. when bleaching could i just use Kaleidocolors Tonal Powder Lightener? or would i still need to use a toner after bleaching?

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  26. Anonymous,
    Thank you for your comment and welcome.

    Have you ever tried that particular bleach? I have not tried it in a very long time, but did when it first some out because I thought the same thing.
    Its a great concept and the cosmetic chemists of the country are constantly trying to "cut-down-the-time-factor"....that is the one area they are always trying to improve on. For Knock out hair, in the hair biz most will say it takes a full day to properly CUT - COLOUR - STYLE in absolute top notch level.For a magazine hair shoot we cut & color one day then style and shoot the second.

    I just have not had that bleach work the way I hoped it would. I would always use a toner. YOu don't have to use a toner, but you will not get the same dynamite look.
    I try to teach what we do in the Salon and professional world here in order for people at home to have the same advantages. You can choose whichever options you'd like, I give you the ones it takes to achieve the best and top looks.

    Killer Chemist

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