September 18, 2007

Bleach & Tone is How You Roll - "TONER" Education Everyone Needs

In Prep For Toner Application
After Lightening the Hair, I ALWAYS...ALWAYS Tone the hair. I've explained it a million ways and still see many of you not quite understanding what a toner is....it is NOT a color. Again....it is an opaque - light coating - that gives the hair a "tone" only, not a solid color, thus the name. I have never bleached/lightened a clients hair without also Toning it, although I have seen others just do the one step. I highly recommend the toning process. . . once you do it, you will fully realize the advantages, some think they are so slight that it doesn't matter, but they have been so wonderful that I have never "not' used one. Most of your blonde celebrities have their hair 'toned' once every week or every other week depending on how porous the hair is. Gwen Stefani, Christina Aquillera, they use toners regularly.

Have I made clear porosity? Please let me know if I need more on that subject it is very important when dealing with color. The difference porosity can make on lifting time's can be amazing. Normally, in a classroom I would have the students sit down with wefts of human hair in Level 7 and Level 3 along with 2 different types of bleach (Oil & powder) a high lift blonde(12A) and a Level 10N Colour. This was usually their first go round with color and real human hair...just before they did each others hair...they were allowed to experiment and play around with different volumes of peroxide and those lighteners. ....

{ I hope to carry some hair wefts for you to order & experiment with. I needed that to give me security ( they should be pretty minimal in cost) although I guess on here most of you will just be doing your own hair, not a variety of hair as stylists do}

After the hair goes through the 10 stages of decolorization, the color that is left in the hair is known as its foundation. It is essential that you achieve the correct foundation in order to create the degree of porosity required for proper toner development.

Manufacturers of toners generally include literature with their products that recommends the foundation necessary to achieve the color you desire. As a general rule, the paler the color you are seeking, the lighter a foundation you will need. {There is nothing wrong with reading directions... no matter how secure you are with a product, as a chemist I know how often formulations are altered which reflects into the directions as well. It is imperative that you review directions for all the different lines and manufacturers you end up using } It is important to follow the literature closely and to understand that overlightened hair will "grab" the base color of the toner. Underlightened hair,on the other hand, will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than the intended color.
It is not advisable to prelighten past the yellow stage. This will create overporous hair that will have inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in the cortex for the toner to bond to. Refer to the Post on the Color Wheel to select a toner that will neutralize or tone the pre-lightened hair to the desired shade...and you can always Post your comment at the end of this POST and I will get back to you within 24 hours ( my new mission ! )

PRELIMINARY TONER APPLICATION

Administer a patch Test for allergies or other sensitivities 24 hours before the toner application. Do it at the same time you do the tests for the lightener...so its all done the day before and you are ready to go on the same day, I feel its important to Tone the same day as the bleach because the cuticle is still open and the porosity is at its most right after a bleaching and if anything is a problem with toners, its that they wash out too quickly. If you apply it the same day, it will usually last a week to 10 days - - longer ( great for Toners). Proceed with Toner application if patch/strand tests are negative and hair is in good condition.
Toners are about the one and only hair color "I" do not wear gloves for, they are so mild and light they neither stain the hands nor sting them...so I don't wear them but I cannot speak for everyone .I like the feel of human hair in my hands and cannot stand gloves but after bleaching my fingerprints off my hands for years at a time I have gotten a lot better about that whole habit.
Tomorrow the shopping list for Toners - Directions....then the Lightener Directions for previously colored hair.
good nite;!
Killer Chemist

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

2 comments:

  1. Dakota,
    A couple questions for you..
    1. To clarify, Wella toners are not permanent? The directions have you mix it with 20 vol developer. To review,I used the ivory lady color toner. It did a great job of neutralizing, however the color was too "unnatural".
    2. After toning, I used the Wella Color Charm demi permanents. Mixed the level 9&7 ash(they were out of the level 8). It looked a little greenish to me... are the ashes for wella color charms a green or violet base?
    3. After using that combo, I redid my head with the Wella color charm demi level 9Sandy Gold to give it some "warmth". Do I have to repeat all my steps for my regrowth, or can I somehow do a shortcut(i.e. get the level 8 ash and mix that with the level 9 sandy gold?) It seems like such a waste of product the way I first did it. I do love my results, but I realize that I "layered" my colors with the first application of the demis(9&7ash), and then did the 9 sandy gold on top of that. Would the same results occur if I got the level 8ash with the 9sandy, any thoughts?

    Thanks so much!
    Martie

    ReplyDelete
  2. P.S. I thought I liked my results at first when I did the toner, but the next day I was like, um, nope LOL. I should have stock in Sally's...

    ReplyDelete

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