BIONIC BLOND -- Toner Application

Bleach & Tone Process

Application of Toner

Shopping List

• Towels
• Tail Comb
• Latex Gloves (small)
• Clips
• Cape or Old T-shirt
• Plastic/Glass Bowl
• Shampoo SLS-free
• Peroxide - 10-20 Volume
• After/Treatment Rinse {Wella IN DEPTH}
• Cotton
• Toner
• Protective Cream
• Tint Brush
• Timer

Pre-lighten the hair to the "frozen butter" stage...ever seen frozen butter? Helluva lot different than room temp. butter...its very pale - frosty yellow/white, check your freezer....so you implant that color in the cells of your brain. That is the key to getting hair light enough, YET not too light, so as to do irreparable damage.That is one of the trickiest yet most crucial parts to nailing the proper bleached blond. Here's a couple photos. . . .to show you it is not white. 

Preparation

1. Prelighten to FROZEN BUTTER.
2. Shampoo hair super lightly ( most likely this is already done), after-treatment conditioner, rinse, and towel-dry.
3. Select the desired Toner Shade - check manufacturer's directions as to whether the hair is better dry or wet ?...they are ALL different.
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears.
5. Perform a strand test, for allergies. ( I have to suggest this, its up to you)
6. Toners are both --- sometimes non-oxidative (which means it does not use Developer - its used straight out of bottle or tube), some times oxidative, usually 10 -15 Volume is for Toners in the rare case. 20 volume. NO OTHER VOLUME. I can see a lot of you do not quite understand VOLUME'S. Remember 10 Volume - deposits color only. There is no lift ( lightening). 15 Volume is deposit only. The idea here is to deposit a very light OPAQUE ( think of Nylons or Opaque pantyhose in this case) "Tone" on top of the lightened hair. An Ice beige, a Platinum, Rosy beige, there are a zillion colors like this. If you cannot figure this out.... you cannot go wrong by using a Platinum toner. Platinum would be Gwen Stefani's hair, everyone loves Platinum.

Procedure

1. Part the hair into 4 equal sections, using a tail comb or tint brush...you must be VERY gentle to the scalp it will be very tender (on some), avoid scratching it.



2. Mix the Toner according to manufacturer's directions.

to be continued....

"Bleach" Versus "Lightener". . . . WAR OF WORDS

Wash your mouth out with....bleach?!?!

There was an article in one of the 2 million hair industry mag's I read, the other day that I cannot find again, but the jest of it was this, '

in today's world, women do not like referring to this procedure we have been studying as a "bleached blond" ....the terms have been revamped to please clients taste to : "lightened" "blonding" and "decolorization"...which I have started to use & will 'try' to incorporate into my vocabulary more & more.

On the other hand, Colorists between themselves know how bleach works, bleach is 95% less harmful than BOXED KITS, in my humble opinion. Those kits, produce different results every time they are used....Bleach is a "constant" it always works the same. We know what it does and how it works and love how it is extremely useful in hundreds of different ways.

There is no other product like it. None. Zip. Zero!! We would be lost in the world of Couture Hair ,Show Hair, Model's hair, Editorial Hair, Hair Contests, most common use: highlights, and to top it all off: the EMO kids would not be able to accomplish those crazy 'Do's
..........................................
................................Bleach; a crucial ingredient to the world of Hair Color



We use it to "Fix" many mistakes, so we are not scared or turned-off by the words. I do admit ....back before I started Hair Academy, I was one of those, and would cringe every time some one would call it "bleach" swearing to myself that I was going to be one of those that didn't use it!!!.........it took 1 full year before I understood the tremendous advantages of "lightener" (or bleach!) and how it would become my best friend .. I simply would not be able to do all the creative hair tricks without it. You come to cherish it. You really do. In my color closet right now , I have 7 different brands of powder bleach alone (some work faster than others)..2 types of Oil Bleach..Wella even has a colored bleach,I have 2 (Colored bleach? it both bleaches the hair and deposits colour -reds, excellent on Latino's with dark resistant hair ).

I hope to teach you to love it as we do and for you all to try to become friends with bleach. I will try my best to watch the words I use its just so much easier to say bleach.... if I blow it you will know why.



My suggestion?For those of you really trying to learn how to do some of these procedures, Read and re-read.....PLUS, either get some locks of hair -- Level 3, Level 6 and Level 8- most importantly your own level of hair... maybe some kids in your neighborhood are going to get their hair cut??? Ask around if you can borrow a swatch or two off of someone's head. Then experiment. Apply the bleach to your level of hair. See how long it takes to get to "FROZEN BUTTER" stage! Before you ever apply to your own head or someone else's hair.

I have found a few hair stylists are readers of Killerstrands... that is EXCELLENT. There are many schools around the country that did not focus on hair color which has left those of you with your Cosmetology License, yet no education on hair color. That will handicap you terribly if you don't learn how to do color. Never experiment on real clients until you know what you are doing. Please.

Killer Chemist

Dakota

Killerstrands 'Reader' Responds with Kick Ass Results

Breaking Use Of Hair Color Kits Isn't Easy, But...Well Worth It!

It was the most pleasant email response. . . . stemming from advice given to Killerstrands readers (just like you!) . . .she had been using Boxed Kits like so many of you . . .Listen to Jackie O, one of the readers, if you are hesitant to listen to me.

I am hopeful that many of you will try to escape the dreaded Boxed Kit...I am interested in getting everyone to have the wonderful experience she has.

Jackie had written me with a story of being on a boxed kit "merry-go-round" and never finding the answer to what she wanted, her hair was always the wrong tone and well, you can read the rest here..

from Jackie Ortiz on September 10, 2007.........

............"Seriously, I would have never known about this had I not seen your blog.
I was just going to buy another boxed dye and keep screwing myself over.Now I know I can do it on my own and now look down at boxed dyes.
No I don't mind at all, go ahead and post my story. I'm flattered. Thank you so much for the kind words. : )
First off I noticed a difference in the feel of my hair, it just looked and felt soft, silky, and
shiny, like I just came from the salon. The color was vibrant. Boxed dyes look like a thick
glob of paint stuck onto the hair, this looked luminous(which is rare for brunette/darker colors), brighter with a sparkly shimmering coating with that great multidimensional effect
I have NEVER seen on my hair before. With the boxed dyes I used to get a orange/reddish brassy tone or a plum flat color when I used boxed brown dye on my naturally black hair. It looked harsh and washed out my olive skin tone. Now my face looks radiant with my new
medium chocolate brown color with caramel and toffee multidimensional tones!
It is A LOT cheaper too! Now I am in control and know what to use if I want a warmer cooler, darker, lighter shade without any fuss. THANK YOU!!!

......................................................................Jackie O.

That Pretty much says it all

Taking The Asian Hair Blond, James Blond !

Pitch Black Asian Hair Turned Snow White


a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

anyway . . . .

Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. Deep Burgundy is also popular because it is easy to achieve by lightening the hair to the orange stage, then add burgundy on top -- ends up very long-lasting.(This was accidentally discovered by Stylists while on their way to blond for people that gave up)

this is from a long time colorist from an artificial hair manufacturing company..........she has been a colorist for ever... her thoughts on going blond on Asian hair ( she too is Asian) :
Her theory:
she used Clairol Basic White bleach and 20 volume developer, claims it took 5 days to get blond. She left it on 5 hours every day, and at the end of the 5 days . . .only the tips were melting; the roots were strong.

That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

• When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2 ...but the speed of it comes crashing down on charts by the hair color manufactruing companies, plus by all my own tests and ultimately my clients
• I discovered if you rinsed and re-applied a new batch, the process will stay at a moving 'fast' stage and going strong , if you REAPPLY 3 times in one day (using Oil Bleach) beginning with powdered bleach & 40 Volume -- on the ends initially....
• You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair , as well.
• If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later amd then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.

I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

The process needs to be called the BLEACH & TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- yellow/gold is fine) rinsed, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces. Check out our website for FUDGE COLORS!


I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ??
From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 15 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once.
Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 10! Super Rare.






See the different "tones" of Blond here???
Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER is applied.
Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has an Apricot IceToner (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??
Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color (BOUGHT SEPARATELY --- at the beauty supply -- Tube of Color & Developer separate)


I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color.
Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know

• where to start,
• how large to make the partings
• width of the partings for application of color

all the particulars, so you feel more secure when you buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . Is it working???
HOW DOES THAT SOUND?
Killer Chemist