Bleach For The Stars : Complete Directions of Professional Hair Bleaching

Be Blonde Before Breakfast

I apologize for the break last week, I hope to make up for it with some of this months posts.
This week ? Bleaching and Highlights !
Today? We will begin with my absolute favorite procedure on the planet;
BLEACHING VIRGIN HAIR or......BLEACH & TONE
Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure?


Two of the most important parts of this process

1. the product you use


2. following directions to the T

The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T.
I don't skip over steps, I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important, in chemistry it is important. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe.... Cooking is chemistry as well. Same with Hair color, measuring and following the steps are important. I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results. I am here for any of you to ask questions. Even if you want to jump ahead.

Please,if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions.

Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners, hair color chemistry does not work well that way.
I even added some steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.


I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal,so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world. My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.

PREPARATIONFor this process you will need OIL BLEACH.
Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way. A complete Bleaching kit for you!
Killerstrands@gmail.com and put PURCHASE OIL BLEACH in the subject header.

Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .

But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....
By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep conditioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???
OIL...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.

It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.

READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:

{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.


TOOLS NEEDED

• Towels


• Combs


• Protective Gloves


• Plastic clips


• Cape (old Tshirt)


• Plastic or Glass Bowl


• Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)


• Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume


• After Treatment - pH Balancer 
• 
  
• 4 OZ. measurer beaker


• Cotton Rope ( by the yard)


• Tint Brush


• Oil Bleach Lightener .......
• Creme Bleach - through Killerstrands Store

• Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year.
Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com

• Timer


• Protective Cream

Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1

Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)

Double Process > coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)

Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing

High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit

Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening

Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse

Killer Chemists > Most Common Question For August.

Below is a wonderful email from a Killerstrands reader, this seems to be a very common problem this month. At the end of every month I want to pick out an email that represents the most common inquiry to me for the month, in hopes of helping others out there, too timid to ask and answer it for you all in a post. I got Melissa's approval first to publish her email, so I thank her for giving us the peek into her hair world.

Please, I adore your questions and look forward to answering them. So ask away.

Here is melissa's Email...

I would estimate I had at least another 20 emails to me very very close to the same problem.... Melissa summarized it the best..

Aug 31 (3 days ago)

Killer CHEMIST,

i just found your blog, and i have to say i have learned a lot. i wish i found this earlier.
i need some help with a problem i have with my hair.

i asked my stylist to make my hair color a nice medium warm brown.
I have naturally black hair but has been highlighted, and then changed to a dark brown.

My hair looked brown when she was done, and i liked it. but when i got home it looked more of a dark plum red tint.
which i hate! i was pissed. in the light you could see this dark reddish purple tint to it. and even in pictures it looked like that.
so i panicked and bought a toner (demi-permanent), Loreal Gems. That made my hair black with a dark reddish tint! Yuck.

So i go to her to fix it. She doesn't lift my hair at all???? I thought that was weird.
Instead she said she put in more of an ash color in the mixture she made......It definitely got most of the red out but not all, there is still a slight red tint in the light, but its still black. Now in the light it will look brownish/reddish depending on the angle of the light.

Ugh! i don't know what to do. i want to be able to do this myself and i am worried about damaging my hair, meanwhile paranoid of hair loss.
i just want a nice medium but warm brown. is that so difficult. oh she said i would have to bleach my hair to get this color, which after reading you blogs, it sounds like she is right. she said my hair since i'm asian (technically only half, and I don't have typical asian hair) will always pull red.

i know when she did my highlights i got a nice brown. i don't know what i should do.




There is a whole art in the Hair Colour World called Color Correction. This would be a person that spends the majority of their time fixing others hair color mistakes. I did this throughout my career because I was trained by a Colour Correction Specialist, she was the top in the field in the United States and she continues to be. I was very lucky to have that training because there is no where to 'read' about it, one has to be trained or find someone that will let you intern/mentor underneath them... it is the only way. Most with the knowledge do not like to give it up they want it elite & private.

The very first point about this email that needs to be made.............
This is a HAIR COLOR Rule that is the most important one you will ever learn. Almost everyone that reads and comments on this blog....does not seem to understand what it means. I am upset that I have not explained it correctly & that no one understands what I mean.
Here it is:

Colour does not lift color.
Tint does not Lift Tint.
Dye does not lift Dye..............................all 3 of these statements mean exactly the same thing.
Its just what you are calling the hair color product. I prefer Tint.

If you put Tint or color or Dye....whatever you want to call it...on your hair.... once......like she did...she had brown colour put on her hair....
once you put that color on your hair.....you are basically screwed..... once it is on your hair, it is chemically impossible to take another color and put it on top....and have that color on top work....they do NOT WORK ON TOP OF EACH OTHER, that has not been figured out yet...
Once dark brown is put on hair.....the only way out of it is to wash it out or use a very expensive very long process called MODULAT a German color remover.

Modulat is how the Celebs all change hair color so much and their hair is still on their head. It does removes the color/tint/or dye....safely - it does not destroy the hair.... but it takes an entire day and can cost $200-$500. in the Salon.

Now we are right back to where we started......

Colour does not "Lift" Colour. ( lift means 'lighten') Can you grasp that statement? I think if you do it will help you all in so many ways...

So for Melissa and the many others that wrote to me with this problem.. ....I am making available the MODULAT to any readers of Killer strands that want to do the procedure to themselves. The product ( 2 applications normally) costs $23 and is not difficult to apply I've helped a couple people with it :very successfully. That is one option.

The other is to start right away with the shampoo train.
I have quite a few people in this stage right now. This is what we use in the hair color world with hair models.....If you shampoo the hell out of hair, with a CLARIFYING shampoo....
the color begins to come out....you loosen the color molecules and begin to fade the hair color...exactly what we want.
It goes like this.....
The best shampoo is Malibu 2000 UN DO GOO.....if you can't get that....buy a crappie CLARIFYING shampoo
....leave shampoo ON THE HAIR for 5-10 minutes ( longer the better) rinse...........wait min. 30 minutes & repeat..... Do this 4-5-6 times - EVERY day!!
That will lighten that black....which is what you want.

just give me the word and I will send you some Modulat!

First you have to work at getting that black and all those colors out of it......start that shampoo train up....so many people have tremendous success with this.....trust me. It's the beginning you need.
.....