April 24, 2014

Blonde's Battling to Be Blonde, Blissfully

Blonde's or People wanting to go Blonde are a Passionate Group, they all want to be the perfect hue of Blonde without using the proper tool for the job

They want to use the lowest level with the lowest Volume of developer. But in my opinion, you are all looking at the job from the wrong direction.

I think that must stem from poor information somewhere along the line that an non-informed Stylist told them or I don't know how they come with that theory. Maybe from poor results from a blonding experience..BUT, when I go to formulate for a blond in the chair I look for the highest lifting, safest most conditioning product there is. The goal to me is to lift light enough to not have to deal with Toners, but when you want to play with Toners you still can. THAT SHOULD BE EVERY HAIR STYLISTS and CRIB COLORISTS' mind as you go to formulate for a blond.

Picture this, you get stuck on the Level 12 - high-lift color and use it. It did not lift as light as you wanted....your hair makes a mild to the eye but radical to the person CHANGE as you grow older you get darker and you begin to become gray, 2 very annoying features to hair. BUT.......inevitable, just the same ! Now that the color has not lifted lighter, its driving you crazy, and at some point you will have to used Bleach OVER it, because at that point, there is no other way to lighten it. You can choose to go dark but very few Blonde's will choose this until they get older. So now, you have put bleach on top of highlift, because the rule is....color cannot "lift' Color....you cannot put another Level 12 on top of the present Level 12, it will do NOTHING! So this then becomes an endless circle.... can't tell you the amount of people who will continue to try this over and over. 


Strand Test Strand Test if nothing else.
Recently a young woman presented me with a common problem. She did not use the developer in the proper ratio, and therefore did not have enough lift to turn it a nice color. Remember, all High-lifts in + - every brand across the board are double 40 Volume. Highlifts are every color over a level 10, so EVEN Level 11 is considered a highlift and is also double 40. All brands......... worldwide.
So that is where you went wrong. But I don't truly care if you use our color ,but you will have a much better                                                                                                                                    chance of success if you do.it would be better so we

To me that makes ZERO sense you are confirming what I told you ?????????
Do you see how that makes no sense.
SHE switched to bleach.... so if she switched to bleach why would you go back to her, I'm missing something here

I truly don't care what you use

I don't like to argue about hair color.......with anyone
How many times have I said," if you use the right tool for the job - your hair will not be dry or destroyed ".
 Do you know that Gwens hair  (we both use to trade-off doing her touch-ups) is the most luxurious -healthy- shiny hair on planet earth.
What do you think you gain by using a highlift over cream lightener?

However you get to a certain lightness .........has done the exact same thing to the hair...........if you have overlapped, or used the wrong developer or quantity OF it, then you won't have the proper lightening experience but lets just say there is a Level 13, which there is in my head.
Level 13 is platinum/Gwen hair .
 If you want ZERO brass in it without the use of a toner (which, as a colorist I know every girl wants who shows me photos of a platinum or even a sandy head of hair who's DURP isn't going to help, you are at Level 13 - platinum. If you got there with bleach OR with a high-lift it does the exact same thing to the hair. It "LIFTS" out the color in the strands by the combo of 40Volume developer + the ammonia or MEA in the hair color.
Now, if you are talking the condition of the hair - I have tested many times on the same person a foil with Gleam on the hair and my best Cream lightener and 20Volume  VERSUS a lousy Highlift & 40 Volume.
Which do you think was the more conditioned swatch?
Right away and 2 months later it was the Cream lightener. I will confess that we did this on a client who had so much hair she would never know AND my assistants did it on the very underneath of her hair ! Kind of sneaky but we really wanted to know the answer.
Its also OK if you don't believe me.
One thing I will tell you, is country-wide L'Oreal across the board is in a battle with Aveda and Goldwell for the worlds worst color. They all produce DD Delayed Damage. The definition of DD is : hair color turning to shit in 2-4-6 weeks, for ZERO reason of your own.
How many of you walk out of the Salon all proud of your new hair color? Then about 2-4-6 weeks later ( depending on what you had done) your hair begins to start losing color, and volume and begins to feel very dry and damaged ??? That is you experiencing DD. Sooooo very many of you, begin to blame yourselves when it truly is NOT YOUR FAULT. You quickly run to the Beauty supply or mall to find some products that will regain its Zest. I mean of course, there is a little let down from the beginning of be Colored, but I am talking a substantial loss of quality.)
There are really only 2 reasons for DD:
  • Hair Colorist does a poor job of coming up with the correct formula  OR
  • the color they are using is a lousy brand
L'Oreal Majirel is one of those high-lifts that many of us feel is as close to a cream bleach as you can get exactly like "Chi's"
I used to carry Chi's high-lift and then 1 woman from Ireland called in and complained about it. I have a method I go by, that if one person complains about a product ...I pull it.
Then she sent me her photo...........the color she achieved with the Chi high-lift was finally the correct color.......she was so used to it a bright yellow, that when the brass was gone it shocked her into complaining. I told her alot of people have paid me a lot of money to achieve that platinum.
She begged me to put the product back on and I have not.

I think it is a great product for those who are in between bleach and high lift blonde.
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