January 16, 2011

Blond to Brown : Most Common Mistakes

Tip Drips Will Not Go Away : OK By Me00001 drew b 09
After just performing the Tip Drip Technique to my own Daughter who has had the same hair color for her entire 27 years: the same look she requested finally then popped up and ranked a full page in the newest British Hair magazine that I admire and follow. So it is time I point once again to this technique I love – admire and know full well you will get very few Hair Stylists to promote. My daughter went from almost waist length Platinum Hair to the look Drew Barrymore is rockin’ currently – and it just looks spectacular. Everyone – I mean everyone was raving over her new hair at Christmas. I bring this up because we are speaking about family members who know nothing about hair and I would have thought they might tag it “weird”…”unusual”, fun or the worst one of all “grown-out”!
You will never see an American magazine promote this Hair Color Technique and “why”?? What the look does is diminish the amount of times you would have to frequent the Salon, they are so into following what the hair color companies push on them that a look like this doesn’t warrant frequent visits. When they have you locked into the Highlight on top of Highlight look (that is sooo out-dated, remember my coined line “HIGHLIGHTS ARE HISTORY”) With this technique, it not only looks Rockstar Ready. . . it is a look that does not have you married to the Hair Salon & into having your hair touched-up every 2-4-6 even 8 weeks. This look can also be done at home with a little help as well.0m970t0
Now I have also done a modified version of this look on a couple 40 & 50 year olds with shorter hair and I am just as impressed with the look. On the photo up above, take your finger or a piece of paper and cut off the length of the hair, see how great that looks? The thing about the women I do hair color on most of them know I always tell them when it is “time to change”. I never let anyone keep the exact same hair(color & cut) for over 2 years, the younger ones…only 1 year. But I suppose that may not be so practical for everyone. That is why I encourage everyone to learn the hair color LEVEL SYSTEM. If you take the time to learn the Level System you be able to change your hair color – yourself- every year or 2 - - as well. “New hair” is great for relationships ( keeps them fresh), wonderful for self-confidence   Once the look is completed you could go 4-5-6 months without a touch-up > which is why Salons, hair magazines, hair color manufacturers , NO hair care manufacturers likes this hair color technique. I completely admire any magazine for showing it, Celebs for wearing it (their Stylists are doing anything possible to discourage it ) and any of you for being ‘fashion-forward’ enough to rock it.  I hope more of you will consider it. . . keep watching the magazines, check out people at your school or local mall. . . see how many people actually have it.
So, the look is having the TIP DRIP technique, but having it done correctly . . . which I feel all of you can do at home – fairly successfully. You just need some guidance and that is what I am here to give you. I am going to take you through the technique, so you can, if not attempt it yourself…. you can ask your friend to help you ( be sure its the one that is pretty handy with hair, is an artist, or the craft-master of your town ). If all else fails - -  show it to your Stylist and ask if they can please give you the long lasting technique, assuring them you’ll come-in for an occasional touch-up. The problem with that last suggestion? I find through the hundreds of emails I receive that there seems to be an unusual amount of unqualified Stylists out there. Just be sure to do your research and always use a Stylist with numerous ‘glowing’ recommendations. 0009 lauren-conrad-elle
Its very hard to generalize with this technique as everyone’s hair is so different. What I will explain, as it is the most common I see and advise on, is the person with Level 9 thru 12 hair color – that would also be the color I worked on for my daughter and/or its the girl with over highlighted hair that appears to be solid platinum.
The first task is to mark the hair where you would like the dark to end as you come down from the roots. First of all do this to ball park it. You will use something very advanced and hard to find . . . . clips. Little silver clips you can find at your neighborhood drug store  - even your grocery store has them ! Use those for your first eyeball estimate and while you perform the actual coloring.
Performing this process in reverse like this, so many of you think there needs to be all this technical calculating and that just isn’t so. Hair grows at different rates around your head, I’m sure many of you have noticed that, but that is why this does not have to be any sort of a straight line. It would look completely fake if it was perpendicular to the floor and straight, so takes a few breaths and relax in this step. Put the clips in or little ribbons – rubber bands- ties, whatEVER works in your hair in a jaggedly uneven fashion. Notice the photos throughout this Post 00009Dripsfor reference. Decide for yourself how far down you want the depth (dark) to come, there is no ‘normal’  - - - there is no ’proper’- - when this technique first began over 10 years ago the depth was only about 2-3 inches. Now …I have seen them at every single depth from 2 inches of brown ( at least 2 inches or it looks like regrowth) all the way to 12 inches on very long hair. Hold your finger or a dark piece of paper on the photo of Drew Barrymore. Hold it at the bottom length of her hair, moving it up till it looks like she has shoulder length hair. See?? That even looks good on her hair if it was shorter, so do not think you have to have super long hair for this technique to work. I love it on shoulder length hair. To be perfectly honest I will bet big money on the fact that Drew’s long length is clip-in extensions . . . Hollywood finally woke up to the damage and the fakeness of the other type of extensions ( thank the Lord). . . I’m sorry, in my world for the first 10 years the only people we saw with extensions were high dollar adult film stars, that is a vision and association that is hard to forget.
Then know that you cannot just put brown over blonde and it will stick  - -  that just ‘’ain’t gonna” happen no matter what. When hair is very light blond, something has been taken from it, do you know what that is ? ? ? The ‘warmth’ has been removed . See now this is the opposing problem. When one had darker hair and is wanting to go light except for the fact that they have a Helluva time getting the ‘brass’…the ‘gold’…the ‘orange’ and/or the “red” out of the hair to make it white and to LOSE THE WARMTH…. Now going the opposite way and wanting to make light blond a nice warm brown so it is not a green brown or so that it does not shampoo out . . . you MUST replace the warmth you spent very long in getting out out. How? Be applying Red and Gold ( the normal warmth colors) we have in a nice warm brown. That does not mean you need to use a warm ‘brown’ that is how and  why people get it wrong all the time.
You want to use a Level 8 Gold and a level 8 Red….combine them in a top of the line Demi-permanent line of color such as Color Touch. You apply this kind of bright and crazy red/Gold, and process 30 minutes, following with IN- Tensive for 25-55 minutes, RINSE and dry the hair.
Now you are ready to apply the brown. Yep, right on top of the bright red/gold. It can be any shade of Brown but I do not feel it should be any darker than a Level 5 in Wella ( they run a full level darker). I love a level 6 or 7 in Wella which would be a Level 5 or 6 in any other line.
Then process and follow with IN-TENSIVE as always and I always like to follow all my color treatments either with a 45- 60 minutes THRIVEN treatment, or if you are home an overnight one. It is the ultimate refresher.
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The goal of Killerstrands Hair is and always will be : honesty in Hair Care, Hair Color and Hair Product Education. What I say will many times not be the popular thing you hear, what I say is the Gods honest truth… you will see. I’m a fanatic in my life . .  everything I have ever done I have been the best at. . .or one of the best, its just something I was born with. So as I took up hair I thought I would just relax after having a rip roaring life in the movie industry, but I took up hair as I did everything else. In the first 5 years I had my own first product in the Salon, as I found no deep conditioner that truly worked ( it is now called THRIVEN http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven). The Hair industry has changed so much, a few very very large corporations have bought up all the small companies – so there is very little independence in hair information and very little truth. Killerstrands is your home for that now.
I receive many hundreds of emails now, and I need to tell everyone, that for the first 2 years I did my very best to get every email answered. The volume is so massive anymore that it has now become impossible to answer questions personally anymore. I would have to close the store to do so, but I wanted everyone to know this from my own mouth. I am not ignoring you, there are just hundreds of people asking questions of me weekly. If you have any personal hair questions… please do your best at searching the Blog’s Archives – if you have no luck there, please ask in the group. Ask each other, the group seems (so much of the time) to be members waiting for the Managers answers . .  get some dialog going between each other. See what comes of that angle I would suggest.
4 comments on "Blond to Brown : Most Common Mistakes"
  1. Oh GOD loves those tip drips technique, it has the effect of volumizing yet effortless-ing the whole look, great!

    well I'm 23 yo male, with short hair and recently doing this blocking colour thing, with and inner circle of my head is level 8-9 blonde and the rest is 3-4 brown, the thing is I really want to do my hair with grey-ash multiple shades and there are not a single colorist in my city (I'm Indonesian, living in Bandung, a province capital, so it's kinda quite a big town) that are having confident of turning my hair that way, and most of them are scared using bleach, and unfortunately there are only one creme bleach brand (alfa parf) as you havent reviewed it yet I have no courage of trying it, and for the rest bleaching agent (powder) I'm actually a weebit scared to use it, as my hair was previously lightened up 7-8 levels (i was naturally a level 1 pitch black asian hair) using schwarzkopf 12.0 N (they only have this shade of 12.- here).

    Well if it's not to burdening for you maybe you could suggest some hair colour technique that are great for young-short haired male, from the simplest to the oh-so-crazy that maybe I-and tons of others could rock, thanks a LOT! LOVE LOVE LOVE your blog, I've been reading it religiously since 2 months ago :D

  2. great!!!!!!! the article is really very informative what can i say more about this. Just simply great.

  3. Hi, I wanted to make sure you read this, so I posted here even though is not related.I've come across your blog last week and have been reading it like the Bible... The very first day I've purchased a sulfate free shampoo fairly inexpensive one. I am 35yo and my entire life hair would fall like crazy... one time it clogged the drain so bad my husband had to go under the house to cut the pipe in order to clean it. I am shocked that my hair stopped falling in such short time; by the 3 wash I realized what had happened... I started crying because I have never thought that was possible, I thought it was normal... When I comb my hair I see 3,4 hairs ... and can't believe that it was as simple as just using a sulfate free shampoo. Thank you so much for explaining how things worked, otherwise I would have never tried it thinking is just another "latest fashion" thing. There are no words to describe how much I appreciate all your knowledge that you share and I am so lucky that I found your blog. Many, many, many thanks.

  4. This is simply amazing! I have been following the balayage and ombré hair, (bronde or blondette) to achieve this look for a while. I've done something on my hair myself but I haven't done it in all my hair just some strands to blend it better with my dark hair.. and I am happy with the results so far... However I would like to,kindly, request an easy and clear -as always- "how to" or DIY for brunettes to get the same look you gave your daughter, as I am planning on doing it again for summer and going a bit lighter next time.
    I do use wella as well...
    Right now my base is a 4-5, colored only with colour touch in the past for greys in the roots. My current lenght is pre-waist line and currently I am using color touch on roots (for greys) at 6 + ash, but considering switching to 5 as it doesn't completely cover the greys. By the moment I am mixing color touch 6.0 + a bit of koleston 6.00 + ash 0.81 on roots and using the intensive peroxide at 4% (13 vol) from wella too.
    My highligts are blending from 6 and 7.1 on roots to 8.1 at the very ends. But when coloring them after bleaching (with 10% peroxide + bleach powder) repeating the process 3 times) I put the color very irregularly mixing colors to give the hair a tridimensional and more natural look.

    Also I am using a color mask (in blue) to prevent the orange/red undertones to show on roots and mediums where the bleaching is not as light and has some red undertones.

    The color overall looks great, not as orangy as when I tried highligting in the past. But I am sure I could improve it!

    I would really looove to hear your thoughts about this technique for brunettes.

    If I am allowed to I am linking the site where I posted pics on my results for you to see how my hair looked/looks after I did it. Sorry the post is in Spanish but the images will show you what I did: http://estiloybelleza.es/foro/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11206
    Keep in mind I am not a profesional so mercy me!

    Thanks for your time and spreading the word on really great hair care and techniques to get what we want.

    Love passionate professionals being honest and open to the general public.



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