December 13, 2007

Keep It Simple, Hair Color Rules That Are Simple As Pie

The More You Know The Less You Fear
....use that as your mantra for learning this crap
Wouldn't you LOVE to understand how to color your hair perfectly?
So if you wanted to have blonde hair one month......and brown hair with just a few blonde ribbons a couple months later, you could do it yourself
and it would look like Julia Roberts hair
NOT Britney Spears

Education - Education - Education....and its not that hard. Promise.

Hair Color = As Simple as Addition and Subtraction

The first of many important coloring facts many Cosmetologists have not learned, so puts you ahead of them
<>When you apply Color(Tint) to the hair you are ADDING Color.
Color + Color = MORE Color, so the hair has more pigment.

f the color used is addition only, the hair will often but not always be darker.

<> Deposit Only tints (Semi or Demi Permanent Color) are frequently used to change tonal value without changing the lightness or darkness of the actual color of the hair. This is about the least complicated method of tinting hair as you will not have a "LINE OF REGROWTH" ( line where the new color has changed the old color) The Demi Permanent line I use called Color Touch (by Wella's European division) is probably the single best line of hair color on the planet. If I had to pick one line to use and get rid of the other 15 lines I carry...that would be it - which would surprize many because it is not permanent. This line imparts the most incredible amount of shine and moisturizers it wins hands down as the "condition" of the hair is the most important factor for me.

<> When hair is lightened (no matter how little) you are subtracting pigment (lifting its called).

many think lightening hair is deposting a blonde color to the hair, it is NOT. Which is why every person ends up with varying shades of blondes. What is actually a happening is the colors are being LIFTED out of your hair to create a lighter appearance. If this is confusing to anyone PLEASE point that out. This is a trough concept the first time around for many, I want to be sure you are getting it, especially before we go on....

<> When you use a tube of hair color (Single process hair color) that is lighter than your own virgin hair that Tube of Color is a wonderful little tube of magic...... it performs many little works of wonder when it is mixed with the developer and applied to your hair.

That color performs "2" main chemical actions on your hair at the same time, it both #1: "lifts"(lightens) hair color out of your hair and # 2 "deposits" new color onto the hair. This is the concept that many do not understand. The chemical process performed once you mix that developer with that tube of color is a 2 step affar.....called Lift and Deposit.

<> Another way of saying this: Single-process hair color uses both (-) subtraction to remove pigment and (+) addition to replace or add artificial pigment.

BROWN is the basis of all Hair Color

Complementary colors ( remember what this is- extremely important) turn a brown of some shade. When 2 complementary colors are mixed they create the presence of the 3 primaries in uneven amounts.

For example: Yellow mixed with Violet will make a pale brown....because yellow, the stronger color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from Red & Blue

When you mix yellow with Violet, you achieve a shade of Brown.

Mix opposites on the color wheel always results in a BROWN-ing effect. S I M P L E
these theories work in hair color - mixing house paint - dying your clothes - painting a picture - even frosting a cake....which is why I feel these little theories are worth teaching in high school to kids.
they teach kids the difference between
a teaspoon and a Tablespoon in Home Economics in high school, what's wrong with teaching the basics of COLOR?

EVERYONE will color their hair in the future...I am sure of it.

I'm of the belief that the way hair color is going in the very near future HAIR COLOR will be so rich, so conditioning and so strengthening to the hair that it will be mandatory for a good strong head of hair. MARK MY WORDS ON THAT

If hair color is done correctly even now, (that is a big "IF"), hair will be in better condition once it is done. Mine is and all my clients are... so it is nearly there already.

I cannot say this enough >> This does NOT include the boxed Kits, those are disastrous.
All virgin hair is a shade of Brown....which contains all 3 primaries
Whether hair is dark brown,
or black ( the bluest brown; Levels 1 or 2-4)
Auburn ( the most warm brown, Levels 5-7)
or blonde ( the most yellow or lightest brown, levels 8-10)
the color is an uneven combination of the three primary colors.
Uneven amounts of yellow + red + blue = Brown
a lot of hair Stylists do not understand this.........
Equal amounts of Yellow + Red + Blue = Black/Gray/or Platinum depending on the level

1.) Lightening the hair is when pigment is subtracted.
Which creates an imbalance of the Primary Colors.

Remember the Color Swatch charts I've showed you with the LEVELS going from top to bottom and then the 'tones' running across the top. Every line of Color chooses the "tones" they think will interest Colorists so they will want to use their line of color. Remember how much 1 Salon spends on this every month ( $5,000. - $20,000. = A LOT!) Therefore, the "tones" or "Series" that are represented are represented by one letter. You learn to figure them out.

For example a few sure shots are: N = Natural A= Ash G= Gold R= Red

2.) Brown is actually an uneven mixture of 3 primaries - red, yellow & blue

3.)Very blonde hair is brown with a dominance of yellow, Red hair is brown with a dominance of red tones & black is the bluest brown.

When you are lightening color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the Underlying or DOMINANT UNDERLYING REMAINING PIGMENT ( DURP) : which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

#1. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair.
#2. The 1st pigment to leave the hair during lightening,  is BLUE....therefore leaving Red & Yellow tones ( brassy)
Because blue is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go quickly into the red zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave.

We will talk about Hair Color throughout the Blog is in the top 5 most important things to learn to be a sucessful AND popular so your clients love you more than their partner!
11 comments on "Keep It Simple, Hair Color Rules That Are Simple As Pie"
  1. Hey! I've been keeping up with your blog for a short while now and LOVE all the info that you have on here. And I can't seem to find your email, so I'm just gonna post here for the meantime.

    I've been thinking of coloring my hair, but the right way... at home if that makes any sense. I have asian black hair, and I want to color it because from the roots it's the darkest and to the tips it gets light, so it's kind of like a gradient on my head and I want to get all one shade of black, or very very very dark brown/blue as nothing is really "black."

    I've read your color theory and all, but I want the right color for my hair and hair type. So, I'm guessing I'm trying to add pigment back into my hair? I also read that Sally Beauty Supply has some good color in a tube one can get? You said that Color Touch is a very good line, can I get that there? But I'm looking for something that's more permanent. I just need to know what to look for cause I'm very picky when it comes to my hair, haha. So yeah, I need some help and can you please point me in the right direction? Would just going to the salon be a better, safer option? If you would get back to me as soon as you can, it would be most appreciative. You can email me at I'm really looking forward to hearing from you!


  2. Hi Vang,
    & thank you for your comment...I try very hard to keep this a "teaching" everyone can learn from everyone else. I'm thrilled you asked your question here in the comments section, this is where I PREFER to answer questions & will take more time and answer faster if people ask here..... So others can benefit. I get plenty of emails , but this helps others.

    Part of my goal is to try to teach the public how to color their hair AT HOME correctly.
    NOT using a KIT.
    With what you are trying to accomplish you are an EXCELLENT candidate for doing your hair at home, and having it look just as professional as the Salon.
    Colour Touch is a professional product and is NOT available at Sallys, but I do make it availble to anyone that is honestly trying to learn what I am teaching. It is more expensive but its worth every single penny. I sell it to readers through PAY PAL, so no worries there.

    I need a few questions answered first before that answer is set in stone though!
    I like people to be able to "speak" in the Levels system...which is why I teach it...if you learn this you can keep track of your hair for the rest of your life.

    So , I need these questions answered first:

    1) Virgin Hair Colour Level?
    2) Length of hair?
    3) What Colour is on your now(all)?
    4) What is the texture of your hair?
    5) Porosity?
    6) Hair color(level)now?
    7) Your Hair is thick, thin, medium, or???
    8) Your Lifestyle (occupation)?
    9) Age?
    10) What's your favorite music?
    11) What shampoo do you use?
    12) Your Favorite Shoe?
    13) Is your hair in good condition?
    14) If you could fix anything with your hair what would it be?
    15) Do you change your hair color often? How often?

    Send those my way and we will go from there. I love ASIAN hair its my favorite to color and cut...there is nothing better..... you must be an artist to know there is no really true black....I have a gorgeous blue-black and a violet-black as well...they are permanent colors.
    Art of Destiny...what is that?

    Killer Chemist
    (aka Dakota)

  3. Hmmm... Let me see if I can answer your questions as best as I can understand them... And uh, I SHOULD first mention that I'm a guy, haha...

    1.) I'm using The New Clairol Professional Premium Line of Color Swatch Chart Tones and I'm guessing between the dark neutral brown, and black.

    2.) Hair is armpit length.

    3.) My hair now is black (1N) and towards the tip a more light neutral brown (5N).

    4.) Texture of hair is coarse.

    5.) I think my hair porosity is normal to raised. I know that in really humid weather my hair waves up and frizzes out. Absorbs moisture like crazy.

    6.) I'd say between black and very dark brown. 1 and 2?

    7.) Hair is thick.

    8.) I wash/detail cars for a living.

    9.) 23

    10.) I like all kinds of music. Mostly Pop, R&B, classical, International music... wide variety...

    11.) Right now I'm using Infusium 23 (repair)ologie.

    12.) I don't have a favorite shoe.

    13.) I'd like to believe my hair is in good condition. I get compliments about it ALL the time!! Girls start fingering and messing with their hair when they see me walk by... :D

    14.) hmmm... I'd say the number one thing to fix is split ends. Managebility, shinyness... The others is more of "changing" rather than "fixing." Such as less wavy and more straight...

    15.) I haven't changed my hair color in years. It's all "new growth." I was a yellow-blonde and a brunette once. :D

    And yeah, I am an artist. And I wouldn't mind having a blue-black color... Is there a possible brown-black too? And Art of Destiny is just an art project that has been on hold for a long time now.

    Hopefully I've answered these somewhat correctly for you to know what to determine. I can always take a snapshot of my hair for you too if that makes it easier, haha... If I haven't been elaborate enough, please let me know so we can clarify.

    I'm lookin forward to hearing from you again soon!! Thanks so much!!


  4. Hey Killer Chemist... Was wondering if you're still around to help me out some... ???


  5. Vang,

    I'm SO VERY sorry....
    Somehow I missed your response....I will get back to you tomorrow........I promise
    Its late I'm off to bed now...
    killer chemist

  6. Alrighty... I'll be lookin forward to it. :D


  7. Hi Vang,
    I've been thinking about your hair.

    There are 2 options.

    .with hair as long as yours its difficult to do at home,except when you are doing one color...which is what you are asking for correct?
    With most of the people contacting me, they are trying to save some $$$ so they want to do it at home.
    As a guy, sounds like you most likely can afford it...maybe you would want to have it done professionally.
    Where do you live?
    Unfortunately, there are tons of Pro Stylists that SUCK at their job....I only hear this more and more on here. I'm from LA so we have quite a stable of talented souls, but the rest of the country, well I cannot stick up for them.

    What do you think? Do you want to try it at home?
    I mean I can sell you some of the professional color ( the best there is) plus arm you with proper directions (one color is the easiest to accomplish) you would know for sure you were getting the best there is. It would be very very hard ( read "impossible") to screw it up...

    So let me know which way you want to go....and we'll proceed from there.

    ( BTW>
    Do you have any gray hair? )

    Killer Chemist

  8. Hey Dakota.

    Thanks SO much for relpying! :D I thought so myself to just get it professionally done. I've researched around, and went on the Wella website to look for salons. I've found one that's very close to me. As a guy, I can afford it? Not so much, haha, but I do try... Ultimately, I might end up doing it professionally (less hassle), but I would like to know how to do it at home as well. So can I have my cake and eat it too? hahaha...

    What are your products if Wella isn't your suggestion? Read "impossible?" Why do you want to know if I have gray hair?

    Thanks again! Hope to hear from you soon...


  9. Vang,

    Wondering where you live...I still need to do a post about finding a Stylist. If at all possible you want someone that was trained at Vidal sassoon Academy. THAT is the trick, we have people from all over the world come and get their license from the 2 Academies. You want to call some of the better Salons where you live and ask for someone trained at eithr of the Vidal Sasson Academy's.
    to do your hair is also a very very simple procedure, if you want to do it yourself....the process is actually the easiest one there is....although the one and only thing you would want to do is NOT USE A BOXED KIT OF COLOR.
    YOu would want to purchase Level 1 in Wellas Color Charm ( or you can get the professional color from me if you want) and basically apply. {you need a little more explanation than that.} but get my drift..
    Wella has multiple lines of color...Professional/Public etc...

    killer chemist

  10. Hey Dakota!

    Right, got it, so ALL I need is the Level 1 in Wella's Color Charm. After reading your blog, I'll never use box kits! I'll see if I can find it in any of the Sally Beauty Supply around where I live first. And Vidal Sasson Academy graduates. hehe :D Oh, and I live in Minneapolis, MN. :D

    I'd apply the color to my hair by parting it in quarters like you are with the post of bleaching Molly's hair? I'm guessing it's a similar process?

    Have fun, take care and good luck!

    - Vang

  11. Vang,
    I like to see someone who is practical and can apply one process to the other....GREAT!

    The reason I asked if there was gray in your hair, is because that is a whole different formulation, one of the trickiest and most coveted procedures in the business is formulating for GRAY coverage. Its not just a one color procedure...

    But if that is not an issue...coloring "SINGLE PROCESS COLOR ON VIRGIN HAIR" is the one we teach (that & Semi-permanent color application) first because of its ease.
    I'm thinking maybe you could use Wella's DEMI Permanent Color in Level 1 or 2 > also. I very very rarely use Level 1 is just so damn BLACK. Level 2 looks Black and I am super picky! Demi Permanent is a good choice for lasts the same amount of time...
    and is basically permanent I still don't feel there is anything permanent...all color fades from water & shampoo & heat.

    All hair color states you should perform a patch test. That is mixing a small amount of color and applying it behind the ear for the proper amount of time and then waiting 24 hours to make sure you have no reaction. That is up to you.

    But part the hair in four sections FOR ALL HAIR COLOR Procedures....the difference in each one is which quarter do you begin on.....
    That particular piece of info is one of the main points on the STATE BOARD TEST.
    I guess people will choose to use the bottle application on here...but the strict Sassoon method is using a brush and bowl... Up to you.
    You apply almost the exact same manner as the Molly application...
    1/2" off the scalp not through YOur ends because they sound porous.........then when that is all done you apply to the roots,

    and then through the porous ends.
    I really need to make this post...but not now and get people confused...
    I did a movie in Minneapolis, spent about 5 months there....stayed in an old hotel on that outdoor MALL near the wAter, enjoyed that city although it was freezin ass!
    Happy New Year
    Killer Chemist


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