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Thursday, June 4, 2009

10,000HEADS Hair Strengthen System - 2009 Revisions

Thriving 13 Step System Developed by Killer Chemist for the entire Female Sector

Every year I revise - change - add- subtract - in my never-ending quest to have the most precise & easy Steps for you to follow. So here is the current 0-9 version.

10,0000HEADS Head 2009 revision

10,000 HEADS remains as successful as ever, now that the system is basically being used all over the world, I am secure in the fact that its success has nothing to do with a particular type of person, as I feared in the beginning. Its in England, Netherlands, Italy, Greece, Africa, Australia, New Zealand, and right back to Hawaii where we just started shipment to. And, that is just the countries I can remember off the top of my head, pretty cool - - huh? I think so.

I set out to help the women of Malibu, moved up to the women of America and ended up helping the women of the World. That is cool . . . . . . . VERY Cool !

From now on, anyone that asks for shipment of THRIVEN to another country I'm going to ask they send a photo showing them holding THRIVEN in their country. If they do they will get a small discount on their next order . Hopefully we have some adventurer/photographers out there. Your photo will be posted right here on the front pages of the Blog!

I haven't talked about 10.000 HEADS in a very long time, I get so wrapped up in hair color, I dislike when I do that - I will look to some of you for reminders.

10,000 HEADS - 2009

Step 1 -Smoking

I would hope most of you understand this step, although the young need to be told & reminded constantly. . . . Remember that . . .when you think you know everything and you are positive cancer will n-n-n-n-never hit you.

I wonder what the Europeans think of this step when they see it. They are quite passionate smokers it seems which is just not conducive to having healthy hair. I have quite a few women write me about their hair loss (from all over Europe) and they all end up ordering THRIVEN and following 10,000 HEADS.Almost all of them will write frantic with suggestions on how to get the secret supplement in their country, if you have hospitals you can get the secret supplement, its sold world wide as an OTC pharmaceutical.

There was a great article in the New York Times last month that pretty much sums it up for me. Long ago when I began my research and tests for 10,000HEADS - when I discovered how smoking both Weed and Cigarettes absolutely trashed your hair, I wrote a note to Allure magazine and asked them to print the smoking <> hair loss link. I got no response. So with the NY Times finally doing it I can now rest in peace!

I love the NY Times . . . the article was from May 2009 written by Anahad O'Conner :

THE CLAIM:

SMOKING CAN CAUSE THE LOSS OF HAIR

01 nytimes 00

If an increased risk of respiratory illness, cancer and heart disease are not reason enough for many smokers to consider quitting, than perhaps a message focused on hair instead of health may do the trick.

Scientists have long speculated cigarette smoke may accelerate haIr loss. The association was largely attributed to toxins in smoke that can harm hair follicles and damage hormones. According to epidemiological studies, that appears to be the case. A report in the journal BMJ looked at more than 600 men and women, half of them smokers. After controlling for variables, the researchers found a “significant” and “consistent” link between smoking and early graying.

Last year, another team studied the link in a group of 740 men in Taiwan, aged 40 to 91 years, notable because Asian men generally have low rates of hereditary baldness. After controlling for age and family histories, the researchers found a greater rate of hair loss among the smokers, a risk that grew with increasing smoking.

One question is whether the link is a result of tobacco toxins directly affecting the scalp, or of smoking’s causing severe disease that speeds aging.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Several studies suggest smoking can lead to hair loss and hair thinning.

When clients would come in for a 10,000HEADS Consultation, I could tell, by touch - that they smoked. It takes away shine and it takes away elasticity. . . there is a very simple elasticity test I run. Smokers fail it every single time.

STEP 2 -NUTRITION

I go over t81724690his in depth in a couple Posts so please see the Table of Contents I made (go ahead laugh) for 10,000HEADS. Remember Hi-Protein, tons of fresh vegetables & fruit . . .dieting itself is prohibited. Eating properly is imperative. I don't support Vegans or Vegetarianism if you have hair thinning....that's a tough one because I was a vegetarian for 15 years and a Vegan for 1....so I love that way of life, minimum of 50 grams of protein per day. . . closer to 70. Protein is the trick. Use protein bars if you have to there is a lot of great ones out there. I believe in oils for your "insides" as well as the outside. . .Lipids are just the key to strong shiny hair.

STEP 3 - NO FIA (FLAT IRON ADDICTION)

Flat Irons have been one of the worst hot hair tools ever invented. There are a lot of girls out there with Flat Iron Addictions, its quite sad to me. They just cannot stop flat ironing their hair. I've busted over 100 girls and at least sparked up the conversation with them about the problem. If there are any of you out there that need an ear and someone who understands send me an email Killerstrands@gmail.com. That is only one extreme. Just remember that the single most harmful thing to your hair is HEAT. With a flat iron you are taking the heat times one hundred putting it in 2 metal plates and SLAMMING it against your fragile hair strands. For the life of me I cannot understand the thinking behind this hair tool. If you have one, use it very very sparingly. The way to go is a round brush and a blow dryer. . . period.

STEP 4 - EXERCISE - YOGA2939-5

I just had a client of 10 years (a 27 year old buyer) who over the years ended up trying all the steps in her never ending goal to have her hair to grow longer. Her hair just stopped at this certain point - she tried all of the 13 steps - or so I thought, was religious about both Thriven & the SS secret supplement and was one of the founders (as I call them) > she is one of the "10,000" heads. She showed up with awesome hair - last time out of the blue - I was blown away to put it mildly - she had cracked the barrier and it was 2 inches longer than it had ever grown. She didn't want to tell me, but . . .she started YOGA and had been going 3-4 times a week for several months now. I didn't notice the last time she came, but this time with it being a 2 FULL inches longer, I was needless to say - startled and thrilled for her. I had asked her if she tried YOGA years ago, I guess people think I just make this crap up and do no research . . . maybe its what you think. I would hope from 2 years of posts that I have pretty much laid my life out for those of you that are KILLER STRANDS followers and fans of my hair knowledge and work and research in the betterment of hair health. I hope you can see that I mean what I say and say what I mean. I'm a no bullshit kind of girl I truly am.

The yoga trick I learned from 3 years of practice I trained as a teacher and interacted with hundreds of women in the process when I was living in Santa Barbara . I would say 80-90% of the women I spoke to attested to the fact that YOGA was beneficial for their hair . . . it was so in a number of ways. My hair grew longer and finally recovered from all the damage from treatment so I ever knew if it was just because mine was so traumatized or what until I started asking the women in all my classes. I very much recommend giving Yoga a try - besides the hair you will never find anything that calms the nerves and relaxes your heart as a 3-4 day a week routine.

Step 5 - ALCOHOL - LIMIT IT

We are talking excessive alcohol, social alcohol use seems to be fine, alcohol in excess is bad for the body and so it follows, bad for your hair

Step 6 - SHOWER WATER FILTER

I've written about this extensively on the blog and found it cool that Dr. Oz from the Oprah show was a big fan of Shower Filters for hair health and to prevent hair loss.

Dr. Mehmet Oz, vice-chair and professor of surgery at Columbia University and health expert on “The Oprah Winfrey Show,” recently talked about the importance of shower filters on “The Oprah Winfrey Show.”

Dr. Oz asserts that 50 percent of women suffer from hair loss. “You’ve got to treat [your hair] like a fine silk blouse that got wet,” Dr. Oz said on the show. “If you’re blow-drying your blouse that got a little wet or if you’re combing it backward over and over again, or if you’re too rough with it, it begins to fray. Your hair has to be dealt with extraordinarily gently.” Wow, I couldn't agree more with this guy.

And when it comes to treating your hair gently, Dr. Oz argues, a charcoal filter in your showerhead is the best thing you can do. A filter can help eliminate chlorine and many other metals and particles in the water, which can dry up your hair.

Here is one post on Shower Filters http://http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/Shower%20Water%20Filter and another http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/05/step-2-shower-water-filters.html

Step 7 - PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR

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Well, this entire Blog is pretty much devoted to teaching and telling you to never ever use boxed hair color and after 6 months of testing at the beginning of writing this Blog - I began testing on the hair colors that can be purchased at Sally's. I found every single one of those hair colors to fall VERY short of the results you can get from Professional Hair Color. In my right mind I just could not promote selling or buying such inferior color - so I began selling professional Hair Color online as a result of that finding. The hairs integrity was compromised

You know what's funny, in the entire rest of the world they don't distinguish between hair color for professionals and hair color for the public, which should tell you something. Mainly that we are very behind the times and need to get with the program. No sooner had I said that ... did I read an article in our trade magazines that Wella and many of the professional lines of color were in talks to sell to the public. So. there you have it, I'm hoping Killer Strands was instrumental in that .

I believe that after the age of about 30 Pro Hair Color actually makes the hair stronger and in better condition than without it.

Step 8 - WATER - DRINKINGwwwwaaa2

The beauty and health benefits of drinking water are many. Water flushes out toxins from our body, this in turn gives healthy skin and hair. Summer is a time when the intake of water should be increased since our body loses most of its water in the form of sweat. Hair too like our body needs water to maintain its moisture levels. It is even better to drink warm water, since it has a cleansing effect on the system.

One should drink at least 8 to 10 glasses of water everyday, this quantity is required to keep the body hydrated. Water is the carrier of nutrients, so it carriers nutrients to every cell of your body including the cells where your hair re-grows.

Having 8 to 10 glasses of water everyday is a must, it should be at regular intervals to keep your body hydrated and your tresses moist. Water therapy helps in curing various diseases like acidity, diabetes, constipation, and so on. Use it to promote a healthy shine in hair, indulge in a simple remedy and enjoy the benefits of nature.

Step 9 - OVERLAPPING (W/ LIGHTENERS)

This refers to the process of getting the hair re-lightened and instead of applying the lightener just up to the line of demarcation, it is applied on top of the line and past it so you are overlapping on top of previously applied lighteners - one of the top 3 most damaging techniques for blonds.

Step 10 - SLS-Free Shampoo

kenra sNo where is this subject covered more than here at Killer Strands. I have been working on this subject for 12 years, running tests with my clients in Malibu trying to figure out why all the hair loss and why it was affecting 18- 20 - 25 year olds along with women in their 30's, 40's and 50's. There are 16 Posts on this subject it would almost be silly to repeat myself on the subject. Look in the "Labels & Tags" on the sidebar about 1/2 down on the right side.

Step 11 - No Crash Dieting/ Anorexia

I just noticed that I have never written about this. I'm kind of blown away that I haven't . . . I have a lot to say about this, so watch for this post in the next 30 days.

Step 12 - Thriven thriven NEW LABEL 1234567

This Step is mandatory if you choose to follow 10,000HEADS, This product was made to repair hair not just coat it.

Step 13 - Secret Supplement

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It says its a SECRET and so far all of you have done a great job at keeping it that way............THANK YOU. With the purchase of Thriven you get everything you need to know about. They work together 1 or the other will NEVER work alone, how I describe without the other - period.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Corrective Hair Coloring - "Is That Like Corrective Shoes?"

Why, When, How

Esb10066906e-001very Hair Color procedure you do is unique and along that same line can create unique problems.  Most Hair Stylists and most of you want to believe that there is a ROCK-SOLID guide to the formulation for every hair color application.......well, there just > is not, nor will there ever be.  If I took 5 separate women - with virgin hair (never colored or chemically straightened) Level 7 (light brown), with the exact same: shoulder length - straight hair and used them as hair models. We mixed your and my favorite > high-lift: Renbow 100A (ash) + 40Volume . . . applied it to all 5 of them (in the exact same manner) -- all 5 would turn out different.

Why?

These factors are completely different on all 5 of the girls, even though you cannot see them.

  1. underlying pigment
  2. condition of hair
  3. (PET) Porosity of the hair
  4. (PET) Elasticity of the hair
  5. (PET) Texture  of hair
  6. Natural Base ( within every Level of hair color is variations)
  7. Existing tint

All of the 5 factors effect and contribute to the end result. All 5 of those factors will make each one of those 5 girls end up with a different tone of blond, 1 will most likely be brassy ( so more would need to be done to hair) - while 1 will be absolutely striking and the most beautiful blond you've ever seen - the other 3 will be varying shades in the middle.  As far as most of you are concerned: you really only need to figure out your own contributing factors and deal with those. You hair stylists out there . . .its just a matter of experience and the amount of heads you color.  That is what makes a "GREAT" Hair Stylist... one that has learned how each & every one of his/her individual clients hair reacts to hair color. So when they come in to go to lighter in the Spring you can address that without trouble and then go darker in the fall - all care free. For you Crib Colorists, all you have to learn is how your own hair reacts to hair color...which really shouldn't take that long.

colorist9

Corrective Hair coloring is a subject that can be terrifying to many hair stylists. Many hair stylists don't and won't tackle it. I have found in small towns, which here in southern California we are full of a billion little towns, as I am sure you are in your area. Within every town there are usually 40-50 Salons, with 1 or 2 emerging as the "it" Salon, within one of those 2 Salons there will be 2-3 Hair Stylists that can really "cut" hair. . and then another 1 or 2 holding the "Best Colorist" Title. Finally there is that one Colorist that specializes in Color Correction, per town... fixing hair color mistakes. I, fortunately or not, was the one in this category for Malibu for 13 years. Being an expert at color correction can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, you receive  top dollar for it, but it also can take days - - depending on the damage or amount of boxed hair color used. I suppose its why I am so opinionated about the pitfalls of boxed hair color - - I spent all those years - - helping people out of the messes they created for themselves. That was tough, they came in looking for empathy and that was a very hard emotion for me to muster up. Back then I rarely watched TV, I didn't really know how bad and misleading the advertising is, I guess that's why people buy it.

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I had so many friends that were just so happy to give their hair color correction cases to me, even people I didn't know would send me their clients all the time.... I'm sure it's still that way in all the cities and towns around you. Color correction is a very difficult subject.... there are no hard and fast rules, there is no "Book of Hair Color Correction Rules" . . . . we kind of make them up as we go along and try to uncover what has been covered up on your hair. It takes a seasoned, experienced and patient Hair Colorist to tackle this subject successfully.

The reason the color correction is so expensive?

  • usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color
  • conditioners are essential along the way
  • Fillers are most often required
  • expertise as a colorist is challenged and valued

As with regular color formulations, you must consider the 3 contributions for the end result:

  1. Hair

               a. Base

               b. Goal

    2.   Color

    3.   H2 O2

If hair is damaged or even questionable, you should proceed slowly. Don't take chances. Using deep conditioners (Thriven) along the way.

COLORING  OVERPOROUS  HAIR

Uneven porosity can cause an uneven result, because over-porous hair accepts artificial pigment differently. There are different ways to compensate for over-porosity:

  • the formula: intensify the formula, make warmer, & use a lower volume developer. 10 Volume is usually ideal. Semi - Demi & no ammonia color are great choices. ( Because they deposit & don't lift). When lightening - don't use ash.
  • how you apply : hair can be dampened with water a little, or with IN-DEPTH - to help equalize it
  • processing time adjusted: shorten the time, over-porous hair processes very fast

    Overporous hair tends to reject warmth and accept ash. The more over porous it is, the more it selects out warmth and grabs ash, which is called "abused rejected".

I can not say this enough: "STRAND TEST-STRAND TEST-STRAND TEST!"

COLOR  FILLERS

Color Filler :  a hair-coloring product or formula used to pre-pigment previously lightened or over-porous hair, replacing missing underlying pigment, compensating for over-porosity and preparing the hair for even acceptance of whatever hair coloring follows. Color Fillers are always warm.

Does that make sense to most of you? I get asked about Fillers all the time, they make so much sense to me . . . but when I look at people's puzzled faces when trying to teach them to other Stylists - even . . .  I am fairly certain that most of you probably do not understand what they are. Am I right?

How do you know what color to fill with? They are slightly lighter than the underlying pigment of the color you want to achieve, depending on the tonal result desired, porosity and the product used.  So there is no "one color" to use when filling the hair.

Conditioner Fillers - I use these to help recondition damaged overly porous hair. . . this way the conditioner/lipids ( from the oils) can be replaced while the color is working and has the cuticle OPEN, remember there is no other time this happens. Apply Gleam + Thriven + the filler . . . is just the prefect way to even the porosity - fill the hair & repair the lost lipids all at the same time.

Color Fillers - in today's world . . . Demi-permanent colors are used for filling. The Wella Color Touch Line is used by almost every top Colorist today. Its the most wonderful line, of Demi permanent colors, it contains the perfect amount of deposit, smells nice, imparts more shine than almost any line of hair color I have experienced . . . its just a brilliant line of hair color. Which you can get in our underground store http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands. Wella used to make a specific kit for filling, well that didn't last long  . . . the Color Touch worked better than the kit.

There are just a million and one reasons to use the Color Filler. Using color Fillers has several advantages:

  • deposits color to faded ends and hair shaft
  • helps hair to hold hair color
  • prevents streaking & dull appearance
  • prevents off color results
  • produces more uniform, natural looking color in a tint
  • produces uniform color when doing a tint-back

Fillers are most often used for blondes returning to their original brunette base.

Picture a Level 11-12 . . .  something like this:

level 11 - KKKKK

who is tired of her look ( although, I don't know why? ? ?!) and she wants so go back to her original color  - a level 5 B, one of my favorite colors . . .

level 5 -eee

This is a perfect example of the most common reason for filling hair. See the Level 10 . . . in order to get it to the Level 5 . . . what is missing?

Warmth.

It is a completely blank canvas, all the color is gone, it has been removed . . . because in this case if you had warmth it would be deemed 'brassy'.  So, in order to get it to this Level 5 - Light Brown - the goal. . .one must fill-IN (where the "filler" name came from) the missing warmth. In hair color, warmth means: reds, golds, oranges, yellows.  Therefore, a nice mixture of Level 6R and 7G  in Color Touch and the Gentle Developer would be the proper formula.

First:  Apply Gleam/Thriven to all the hair strands - then apply the 7RG formula for 20 minutes,. , , which is half the timing of normal hair coloring. Rinse: and be ready for a shocker - - - the hair will be a lovely shade of shocking orange. killercutscolors324

But you cannot say it does not have a warmth!  After the filler Apply IN DPETH for 10 minutes and then the desired color , , , , I would go with faithful 6B .

There you have it - - -  fillers du jour . . .

COLOR CORRECTION9999

    COLOR CORRECTION 777777                                                                                                                                                      kc5

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?