Summer Hair Care for Olympian Locks: Beijing's & the USA's

How Water & Its minerals can affect your Hair + the 1st Step To Perfect Hair Color

As a former professional athlete the Olympics are the most incredible Television they could plant in front of me, I'm in heaven. What about Olympic hair that must go through so much...watching the swimmers & divers hit me, its time I give my southern California advice on water logged hair solutions. Spending time with the Malibu water polo team and helping their hair routine 8 years ago - gives me a bit of history with the subject. Water Polo is huge in all the local schools its such great exercise for kids. But the hair must be taken care of, healthy happy shiny hair is still a goal of most every kid once they hit about 13. This way the kids can still color their hair, I never think a sport should curtail your regular life and vice versa. Hair color is possible but the condition of the hair when you are in and out of chlorinated pools, diving - swimming - Jacuzzi's - water parks must be watched. Your hair takes a beating and in particular your hair color. My protocol works perfectly, if you follow it exactly. Sitting watching the Games I made a list of every water activity I could think of to see if this was warranted...

That's a lot of people doing a whole lot of water related activities all hell on hair, so here we go ... then we'll get back to "Highlights are History"- promise

Most of the people in the United States are using well water or hard water and that is only in your house, can you imagine what the water is like that is used in public places. It gives me the shivers.

All public water locations should have a water treatment service taking care of the water and running pH and other tests to keep the water at the right levels. I am told that blond hair should not even turn green if the levels are correct, if hair is turning green it means the levels of copper in the pool are too high. It may be that the water is too acidic (low pH) and that this is coming from the corroding fittings of the heater, so the solution is simple. Alternatively you may be over-using algaecide's that are copper-based, so never knowing this before, I've always reverted to Malibu 2000 and other tricks. Lets look at our water and what it can cause and create.

Over 85% of the population in the U.S., according to the Water Quality Association, are bathing with hard water. While hard water is fine for drinking, it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin.

These problems include:

• Hair feels dry
• Hair is resistant to color
• Dandruff or eczema of the scalp
• Dry, flaky skin
• Thinning hair
• Colors fading too quickly
• Discoloration or darkening of hair
• Hair lacks body and shine

HOW YOUR WATER AFFECTS YOUR HAIR

The water you use to wash your hair, scalp, and skin comes from one of two sources:

• Ground Water
• Surface Water

Ground Water

If your water comes from the ground, it is either from your own well or from the local treatment plant that derives the water from wells pumping water from the ground. The source of ground water is from rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the dissolving effect of minerals. These dissolved solids are found in the water when pumped above the ground and used to bathe.

Surface Water

If your water comes from the treatment plant which derives the water from a surface source, the water is coming from either a river or a lake. Surface water usually contains less minerals because the water has not filtered down through the mineral layers. However, increasing populations are polluting the water causing additional bacteria growth. As a result, the treatment plants must add more chlorine to kill bacteria and then add lime (a calcium compound) to help control the chlorine levels.

Water hardness is determined by the level of calcium that is in the water either found naturally from the ground or put into the water by the treatment plant.

While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in the water that effect the texture, volume, shine, control and health of hair.

What are the minerals that effect hair?

• Calcium
• Iron
• Copper
• Magnesium
• Silica
• Lead

What other elements effect hair?

• Chlorine -a harsh oxidizer added to the water to kill bacteria also adversely effects hair.

How do minerals and chlorine attach to the hair?

Our hair, scalp and skin have an electrical charge and that charge is negative. Minerals and oxidizers are charged positive. When a positively charged mineral comes in contact with our hair, scalp, or skin, it attaches on like a magnet.

How do hard water minerals and chlorine effect hair?

Calcium - If your source for water is a well, then more than likely you have calcium in your water. If your source for water is coming from a treatment plant, calcium may have been added to your water. Calcium is the mineral that determines hardness of water.

How calcium effects hair:

• Calcium leaves the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause a perm to appear relaxed.
• Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff.
• Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.

Iron - Iron is found in ground water from domestic wells and wells used by treatment plants as the source for local water.

How iron effects hair:

• Iron leaves the hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down.
• Iron can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange, sometimes I think this is many readers problem.
• Iron can color from properly processing.

Copper - Copper originates in water in three ways:

1. It comes from the ground and is pumped into the water from a well.
2. Particles of copper can come from copper piping. The corrosion caused by hard water lifts the copper particles off the pipes and deposits them into the water.
3. Copper sulfates are added to swimming pools to control the growth of algae. Copper is often added to lakes (that are a source of drinking water) in the summer to kill algae.

How copper effects hair:

• Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker - the reason for that Green!
• Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness.
• Copper can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.

Magnesium - Usually found wherever calcium comes naturally from the ground, magnesium is abundant in the soil and is very much a part of the mineral complex associated with hard water.

How magnesium effects hair:

• Magnesium causes hair to feel dry.
• Magnesium causes hair to appear weighted down.
• Magnesium can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.
• Magnesium causes hair to lack shine.

Silica - Silica is a sand-like substance found in desert or volcanic areas. It is usually bound to calcium or magnesium and forms very hard, virtually insoluble deposits.

How silica effects hair:

Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium.

• Silica causes hair to feel dry.
• Silica weighs hair down.
• Silica can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking.
• Build up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.

Lead - Lead acetate is used in certain home remedy gray hair cover-ups - like Grecian Formula or JUST FOR MEN. They used lead to make the color work which screws up your hair for everything else. I believe they got sued and are in the process of changing those boxed kits.

How lead effects hair:

• Lead can cause the hair to feel dry.
• Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, and relaxers.

Chlorine - unlike the other elements listed above, chlorine is not a mineral but an oxidizer. Chlorine is put into drinking water and swimming pools to kill bacteria. In addition to the following effects chlorine has on hair, due to it's oxidizing effects, chlorine also oxidizes minerals onto the hair causing worse effects of those minerals.

How chlorine effects hair:

• Active chlorine in the hair can cause hair to feel gummy when wet and straw-like when dry.
• Chlorine can damage the cuticle and proteins of the hair.
• As an oxidizer, chlorine can cause the air and sun to oxidize hair and worsen the conditions listed above.
• Chlorine can cause hair to feel dry.
• Chlorine can cause hair to become brittle.
• Chlorine can cause hair to lack shine.

Chlorine will be on of the highest ingredients in public water as they are trying to prevent bacteria and infection. So getting that off of your hair immediately is very important.

2008 OLYMPIAN Water Repair YO Hair Trick

What I had my water polo players do for Hair

<> works at the Gold Medal Level ! :

• while dry, wet hair with bottled water(or similar-not pool)
• apply a handful of hair conditioner, we used KeraCare's Humecto daily conditioner -- a 5 lb. tub is available and it works Xcellent- have the coach buy one for the team to use
• apply rubber swim cap - tuck in hair
• when finished, have large bottle of "SODA WATER" available(carbonated) pour & rinse thru hair - stops chlorine from doing any damage
• take Shower immediately, shampoo with Malibu 2000 Well Water or Swimmers Shampoo - Sulfate-free all of them
• Use THRIVEN 1-2 times per week

With this Solution, you will have NO hair damage

Water Polo Players are treacherous on their hair, they are in the pool all the time so its a great gage for anyone below their level of chlorinated water time.

Now this works for general hair protection in water sports.

++ TREATMENT FOR WATER ALTERED HAIR

If you feel the water in your home has built up on your hair, something we do before coloring Celeb's hair is apply different water treatment packs. Which I am happy to make available to you. The problem with having them done in a Salon for you and me? The cost and the time, it adds at least another hour to your time in the Salon and anywhere from $30 to $80.

Making these available to you at home, I will sell the individual treatments to you for $3.50 plus they can be put in a regular mailing envelope so the shipping can be $1.50 for 1 treatment. That is pretty incredible. I will list the various treatments and tell you they are super SIMPLE to apply... just time consuming - perfect for at home application. If you are applying your hair color ( which I hope ) apply the treatment the night before, then get up and color your hair > Perfect Plan! Wait till you see how much better your hair color comes out if you pre-treat your hair - its a treat and yes its worth the time and effort. Try it once, its a small investment.

COLOR PREPARE -1st STEP TO PERFECT HAIR COLOR

What It Is:

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair prior to every color service in the salon, at home or when traveling to assure predictable and successful color results.

What It Does:

• Prepares hair for superior color
• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair that inhibit proper processing of color
• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading
• Helps prevent brassiness or discoloration
• Accelerates processing time of color
• Protects scalp from itching or burning caused by oxidizing chemicals

Blondes Weekly Brightener

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for blonde and highlighted hair to be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to brighten and increase shine/ vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.

What It Does:

• Immediately brightens blonde and highlighted hair
• Removes & prevents hard water mineral build-up that can dull blonde & highlighted hair
• Immediately restores vibrant color and radiant shine
• Improves flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

SWIMMERS SOLUTION - AFTER SWIM TREATMENT

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hand forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for swimmers to be used in the salon, at home or at the pool after swimming to remove and prevent all the elements from pool, spa or ocean water that can otherwise damage and discolor hair.

What It Does:

• Immediately removes chlorine and mineral build-up from swimmers’ hair to help restore health and wellness to hair and scalp
• Removes chlorine and bromine that can otherwise oxidize and dry hair
• Helps prevent brittle, damaged hair
• Removes copper build-up to lift green discoloration
• Restores vibrancy to hair color
• Dramatically improves look and feel of hair
• Helps reduce itching and scalp irritation

HARD WATER DE-MINERALIZER

What It Is:

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair shampooed in hard water or exposed to water softeners that use salt and/or phosphates. May be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to lift surface minerals and oxidizers, remove discoloration, brighten and increase shine/vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.

What It Does:

• Removes all hard water minerals that can discolor or damage hair
• Eliminates brassiness
• Normalizes hair texture
• Revitalizes shine and manageability
• Restores flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

Features & Benefits:

• Safely restores natural color
• Makes hair feel lighter after removing hard water minerals
• Formulated with a patented, nature-identical Vitamin C Complex
• Food-grade, wellness ingredients
• Preservative-Free, Fragrance-Free, Sulfate-Free

Please State when you are taken to PAY PAL which of the treatments you would Like, Thank You

Flat Iron Addiction = F.I.A. Flat Iron Stuck To Your Hand? and Hair. .

HELP ! Out of Control Problem

This is an issue that I've addressed, had a client with a horrific problem show up yesterday. I knew it was hitting our youth strong but I can see now its even creeping into 25 - 30 year olds. YEP! Your busted. I'm no psychologist but the way some of my clients that will cop to it ( its very easy for hair stylists to tell if you have this issue -btw) explain it, it seems to be very similar to OCD issues as I understand it.

OCD: Obsessive-Compulsive-Disorder and as Wikipedia describes it, Obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD)is an anxiety disorder characterized by obsessive, distressing, intrusive thoughts and related compulsions ( tasks or rituals) which attempts to neutralize the obsessions. OCD is distinguished from other types of anxiety, including routine tension and stress that appear throughout life. The reason I put this in here, is so those of you that have this {which there are some of you right now reading this} that do indeed have this to one degree or another... must realize that it is a serious issue. Now I know from experience with my clients that many, as soon as it is pointed out, can stop. It takes some work, and some effort - its not just, "oh, I think I'll stop" . . . nope, its a bit more serious than that. it must be worked at and something must replace that urge to flat iron. If you have the urge to flat iron and cannot stop I can suggest 2 things.

1.) If you can afford it, I would suggest making an appointment with a Psychologist that specializes in OCD for a month or two, at least.

2.) There are many great books on OCD, which is the choice if you cannot afford it. I have used this method to work with about every single problem I've had - I even raised my children reading books! I feel they only publish books from the best in their field, so why not read a book for excellent information.

Now for those of you that have FIA and can deal with it on your own I would like to offer a few alternatives for you before you fry so much of your hair off there will be no recovery. I mean it, I want to scare you...because the person that was in my chair yesterday has to go on a very strict program or she will have no hair left soon. She used extensions AND a flat iron numerous times every day and the damage is done, I am hopeful that we can save her hair but it sure reminded what is out there.

Becoming dependent on your flat iron is just not a great habit to get into. Remember . . . what is the single worst thing that can damage your hair ? ? ? ? ? ?

HEAT

Therefore, think about it... if heat is the single worst thing you can do to your hair . . . then > really HOT heat on 2 metal plates that are then pressed very tightly onto small sections of your hair, MUST be horrific on its condition. That just has to be the worst way to damage your hair, don't you think. You can begin to burn the hair off, I saw it on the girl yesterday . . . it can happen to you, FIA is a REAL - serious problem.

Electrical Tools have their place, but try giving your hair a break from excessive heat styling once in a while - learn to love your hair natural texture, one of the main mottos of Vidal Sassoon Academies worldwide. VS believes and they are right that if you use your natural texture in your hair style your hair will look better and as much as even I tried to fight that idea, they are right.

If you cannot go completely cold turkey on quitting the iron - re-educate yourself on using them by following my iron-safe guide ...

Hopefully you have an iron with a temperature control, most have them. Try straightening your hair with the temperature at a lower level. Experiment, I don't want to recommend a temp & it isn't right for your particular tool. Find the coolest possible you can get away with and keep it there, no reason at all to use the hottest temp.

Cheat that super-sleek finish by just ironing the top sections. Which means the top layer of the hair that is showing. This is the only part that is seen so why take the risk of damaging the rest of the hair !

If you know that you're going to be wearing your hair up, save time and help your hair's health by bypassing the irons. Hair that's got a little texture looks more modern in an up-do and will hold a style for longer if it has a rough texture as opposed to the smooth texture achieved with the iron.

Don't just use the irons to straighten your hair, they can be used to create a variety of styles, from flicks to volume to curls. If you have not mastered these yet, the trick? Practice - practice - practice. The only one a tad tricky is the "curls", but it is easier on the hair than using a curling iron that has heat in the entire circle and uses a hot CLAMP as well. Mastering the Flat Iron curl or wave is much easier on your hair and its condition than a full blown curling iron so set aside an hour or two for a couple days in a row and get it down!

The Golden rule of all electrical styling is to use a heat protector, like Kera Care's Silken Seal...a spray silicone serum without alcohol, every time you reach for the heat, to give your tresses some well deserved protection. Many companies make one, beware for an ingredient called denatured alcohol, it is drying for hair and should not be hair styling products.

Finally, my suggestion to everyone is to go BACK TO THE BASICS. What did we do 'before' Flat Irons were made by every single hair company and had every bell and whistle on them. I'm waiting for there to be a combo flat-iron and cell phone. Wouldn't that be the next logical step? Anyway, break out the blow dryer and brush. I like the look better anyway - I just think it has to do a bit with laziness, there is no easier way to style the hair than a flat iron.

Now , if the damage is done and you are saying to yourself, I'm quitting> now and decide to throw the iron away ( I've had plenty of clients go this radical) you will need to get serious about deep condition treatments - PRONTO. Give your hair the time and TLC it needs to recover. Invest in a re-hydrating and restructuring shampoo like KENRA'S Platinum Shampoo , SLS-Free and uses real Shea butter to moisturize hair. 8 OZ Bottle, to use everyday.

And Invest in a moisturizing deep Hair Conditioner that you must begin giving yourself overnight treatments with immediately. Here at Killerstrands we recommend our own little miracle, THRIVEN. The deep conditioner concocted by myself about 6 years ago and sold in the Malibu Salon I worked for. There is also a secret supplement that must be started - which you get the name of 'with' the purchase of your first jar of THRIVEN - we have had terrific luck with for hair health and hair growth. Almost all notice a remarkable difference in their hairs condition after the very first treatment. You may purchase this in the Side>>>>>Bar, there is a 1 click Buy-Now Button that will take you directly to Killerstrands Pay Pal account. Simple and safe.

If you have FIA to a serious degree and have nowhere to turn, please join our group -- we would be glad to answer your questions, there are a lot of people in our hair group forum with a lot of helpful answers and can be very supportive, many with lots of experience including myself. http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/topics

We have a nice group with some very kind and helpful members I am proud to call my friends. Please, consider joining and we will be more than happy to discuss anything hair related. . . . including FIA.

Check Those Flat Irons at the door Boys and Girls!

Life's a Bleach .. the Lightening of Melanin

Off the Hair Health Horse... back on the Hair Color Horse

Sorry I couldn't figure out why I was sleepy every time I've been posting lately...besides the usual medical crap going on, I was just unusually tired and just couldn't get inspired...I NEED TO WRITE ABOUT HAIR COLOR, to keep me jazzed and alive. So I am just going to have to alternate the posts, for fear of falling asleep and never waking up. DO NOT GET ME WRONG, Hair Health is as important a subject as there is, I promise you. But, for me I have done all of that writing and reporting... it was completed over the past 6 years  - so its simply a matter of "re-writing" my notes - which I guess is what was pushing the snooze button for me.
I  NEED  SOMETHING  ABOUT  HAIR  COLOR  TO  MAKE ME HAVE TO WRITE  FROM SCRATCH - its what made me become involved - inspired and REJUVENATED once again....something I very much NEED. So back we go. I ordered a couple of new Doll heads . . . Molly & Dolly's cousin's are on their way from back east. If you don't know who Molly and Dolly are . . . SHAME on you -- see here >> http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/12/ble-atched-hair-series-1.html.
They are showing ble-atched- super light blond's well into the Fall - and its the subject I simply get the most questions about... getting to LEVEL 12 successfully & beautifully. So today we are going over the process from a different POV, twisted technical.
Hang on.
Below the surface off the skin is the hair root: above it is the hair shaft.

The hair root is housed in a sheath, a pocket in the skin, called a follicle. At the bottom of the follicle ( deep in skin) is the hair bulb. Cells that become a strand of hair are produced in the hair bulb, the LIVING PART OF THE HAIR, from which the hair grows. At the base of the bulb, nourishing it, is the papilla, a tiny mound of tissue laced with capillaries.
 
The hair shaft is comprised primarily of cross linked, fibrous proteins called Keratin. Keratin accounts for 90-95% of the hair weight.
Structures in the hair bulb called melanocytes make melanin, or natural pigment. that gives the strand color.2-3% of total weight comes from melanin.
How is hair formed?
The papilla supplies AMINO ACIDS ( remember this - I feel amino acids are important for new hair growth) to the hair bulb; the hair bulb produces keratinous cells; melanocytes infuse melanin into these protein-based cells; then, finally, the cells dry out and harden to form the hair strand ( called keratinization) which emerges from the follicle.
There are 2 types of melanin

• Eumelanins - the darker pigments from black to brown
• Pheomelanins - lighter, ranging from red-brown to red-yellow to yellow

All hair no matter what color it is (except white- unpigmented) contains both in varying degrees. Very black Asian hair is heavily pigmented but may contain only eumelanin.
The color of a strand of hair depends on how much melanin it contains, the proportion of eumelanin TO pheomelanin  + the pattern of distribution of the melanin. There are additional descriptions of how these work but truly this all you need to know to understand 'basically' how the hair's VIRGIN color. . .  GOT there!
LIGHTENING OF MELANIN
From your POV, the most important thing to know about melanin is what happens to it in the presence of hair color.  The color result depends as much on the natural pigmentation of the hair as it does on the artificial pigment used; the same ash brown formula may look ORANGE-Y on one natural base, drab on another, and Neutral on a third....something I try my damndest to explain to everyone.

Recognizing what depth the hair is to start with and how it will change tonally when lightened allows you to anticipate the final result. So many of you are so surprised & shocked at your results, which I guess really can only subside with experience. 
Through the years, all the various color manufacturers have come up with ways of getting this process across to hair colorists {and now ME to you }  . . . . but the point of any theory of lightening is to drive home the idea that the color result depends on MORE THAN WHAT YOU put in the BOWL - -  it also depends on the color contribution of YOUR hair on your head.  So no matter how many rules we come up with and no matter how many different ways we try to teach lightening of the hair, going from Level 6 Brown Hair to that rocking Level 12 that you have always wanted to be. . . .  it also depends on the color contribution of that hair on your head right now.
Natural color contribution depends on:

1. the original virgin color &
2. how much you lighten it

The natural base level and the lightening capability of your formula, determine the color contribution of your hair.
The color contribution of the hair AND
the artificial pigment used...determine the color result.
Natural color
+ lightening capability of the formula
= the color contribution of the hair
AND
The color contribution of the hair
+  the artificial pigment
= the Color result

Are you getting this...??  Color contributions of the hair is referred to any one of different ways: undertones, underlying pigment, natural  underlying pigmentation, pigment bases, residual pigment contribution, natural contribution of the hair, lightened natural pigment and remaining natural color.
Any of these term can be substituted in that last equation (above).

SEVEN STAGES OF LIGHTENING
This concept concerns the color changes that happen when hair is exposed to a product capable of lightening it.
One of the best lessons in hair coloring is how the FINAL Result depends as much on the natural contribution ( remember what YOUR hair has IN it naturally - as it was when you were born) of the hair a s it does on the artificial dyes, and the seven stages of lightening is a way to tell that story.
The 7 stages of lightening are the colors that hair attains as it is lightened with either permanent hair coloring or bleach.
If hair bleaching could be viewed in super SLOW MOTION, these are the tonal stages that would be seen during the progression from dark to light.
The 7 stages of lightening are:

1. BLACK
2. BROWN
3. RED
4. RED-GOLD
5. GOLD
6. YELLOW
7. PALE YELLOW

  When hair is exposed to a lightener agent, its black and brown pigments are first to begin to break down or oxidize ( the eumelanin lightens first). Then the red & gold pigments gradually oxidize  - then yellow and pale yellow stages are simply lighter and lighter version of gold.

Notice 5 of the 7 stages have to do with red and gold, this is due to the tenacity of these colors in the hair. In other words, they are IMPOSSIBLE to get out of the hair! It takes longer to eliminate Red and forever to eliminate GOLD. I am hoping you will all relate this to your experience of being stuck in the "gold" stage as though it seemed like FOREVER 
The most sought after goal when going Gwen Stefani BLOND . .Pale Yellow, I refer to it as frozen butter. Pale yellow is the lightest hair can become without destroying the hair. Pale Yellow can be toned to be almost any color on the planet...including white.
I am hoping with this series in the long run I will see less banana-heads on the street, realizing fully what a grand wish that is, I am still hopeful - they make me shiver.
There are 3 parts to this  Post. . . I will finish it in the next 8 days. . . . so stay tuned!                                                               
Killer Chemist