Flat Iron Addiction = F.I.A. Flat Iron Stuck To Your Hand? and Hair. .

HELP ! Out of Control Problem

This is an issue that I've addressed, had a client with a horrific problem show up yesterday. I knew it was hitting our youth strong but I can see now its even creeping into 25 - 30 year olds. YEP! Your busted. I'm no psychologist but the way some of my clients that will cop to it ( its very easy for hair stylists to tell if you have this issue -btw) explain it, it seems to be very similar to OCD issues as I understand it.

OCD: Obsessive-Compulsive-Disorder and as Wikipedia describes it, Obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD)is an anxiety disorder characterized by obsessive, distressing, intrusive thoughts and related compulsions ( tasks or rituals) which attempts to neutralize the obsessions. OCD is distinguished from other types of anxiety, including routine tension and stress that appear throughout life. The reason I put this in here, is so those of you that have this {which there are some of you right now reading this} that do indeed have this to one degree or another... must realize that it is a serious issue. Now I know from experience with my clients that many, as soon as it is pointed out, can stop. It takes some work, and some effort - its not just, "oh, I think I'll stop" . . . nope, its a bit more serious than that. it must be worked at and something must replace that urge to flat iron. If you have the urge to flat iron and cannot stop I can suggest 2 things.

1.) If you can afford it, I would suggest making an appointment with a Psychologist that specializes in OCD for a month or two, at least.

2.) There are many great books on OCD, which is the choice if you cannot afford it. I have used this method to work with about every single problem I've had - I even raised my children reading books! I feel they only publish books from the best in their field, so why not read a book for excellent information.

Now for those of you that have FIA and can deal with it on your own I would like to offer a few alternatives for you before you fry so much of your hair off there will be no recovery. I mean it, I want to scare you...because the person that was in my chair yesterday has to go on a very strict program or she will have no hair left soon. She used extensions AND a flat iron numerous times every day and the damage is done, I am hopeful that we can save her hair but it sure reminded what is out there.

Becoming dependent on your flat iron is just not a great habit to get into. Remember . . . what is the single worst thing that can damage your hair ? ? ? ? ? ?

HEAT

Therefore, think about it... if heat is the single worst thing you can do to your hair . . . then > really HOT heat on 2 metal plates that are then pressed very tightly onto small sections of your hair, MUST be horrific on its condition. That just has to be the worst way to damage your hair, don't you think. You can begin to burn the hair off, I saw it on the girl yesterday . . . it can happen to you, FIA is a REAL - serious problem.

Electrical Tools have their place, but try giving your hair a break from excessive heat styling once in a while - learn to love your hair natural texture, one of the main mottos of Vidal Sassoon Academies worldwide. VS believes and they are right that if you use your natural texture in your hair style your hair will look better and as much as even I tried to fight that idea, they are right.

If you cannot go completely cold turkey on quitting the iron - re-educate yourself on using them by following my iron-safe guide ...

Hopefully you have an iron with a temperature control, most have them. Try straightening your hair with the temperature at a lower level. Experiment, I don't want to recommend a temp & it isn't right for your particular tool. Find the coolest possible you can get away with and keep it there, no reason at all to use the hottest temp.

Cheat that super-sleek finish by just ironing the top sections. Which means the top layer of the hair that is showing. This is the only part that is seen so why take the risk of damaging the rest of the hair !

If you know that you're going to be wearing your hair up, save time and help your hair's health by bypassing the irons. Hair that's got a little texture looks more modern in an up-do and will hold a style for longer if it has a rough texture as opposed to the smooth texture achieved with the iron.

Don't just use the irons to straighten your hair, they can be used to create a variety of styles, from flicks to volume to curls. If you have not mastered these yet, the trick? Practice - practice - practice. The only one a tad tricky is the "curls", but it is easier on the hair than using a curling iron that has heat in the entire circle and uses a hot CLAMP as well. Mastering the Flat Iron curl or wave is much easier on your hair and its condition than a full blown curling iron so set aside an hour or two for a couple days in a row and get it down!

The Golden rule of all electrical styling is to use a heat protector, like Kera Care's Silken Seal...a spray silicone serum without alcohol, every time you reach for the heat, to give your tresses some well deserved protection. Many companies make one, beware for an ingredient called denatured alcohol, it is drying for hair and should not be hair styling products.

Finally, my suggestion to everyone is to go BACK TO THE BASICS. What did we do 'before' Flat Irons were made by every single hair company and had every bell and whistle on them. I'm waiting for there to be a combo flat-iron and cell phone. Wouldn't that be the next logical step? Anyway, break out the blow dryer and brush. I like the look better anyway - I just think it has to do a bit with laziness, there is no easier way to style the hair than a flat iron.

Now , if the damage is done and you are saying to yourself, I'm quitting> now and decide to throw the iron away ( I've had plenty of clients go this radical) you will need to get serious about deep condition treatments - PRONTO. Give your hair the time and TLC it needs to recover. Invest in a re-hydrating and restructuring shampoo like KENRA'S Platinum Shampoo , SLS-Free and uses real Shea butter to moisturize hair. 8 OZ Bottle, to use everyday.

And Invest in a moisturizing deep Hair Conditioner that you must begin giving yourself overnight treatments with immediately. Here at Killerstrands we recommend our own little miracle, THRIVEN. The deep conditioner concocted by myself about 6 years ago and sold in the Malibu Salon I worked for. There is also a secret supplement that must be started - which you get the name of 'with' the purchase of your first jar of THRIVEN - we have had terrific luck with for hair health and hair growth. Almost all notice a remarkable difference in their hairs condition after the very first treatment. You may purchase this in the Side>>>>>Bar, there is a 1 click Buy-Now Button that will take you directly to Killerstrands Pay Pal account. Simple and safe.

If you have FIA to a serious degree and have nowhere to turn, please join our group -- we would be glad to answer your questions, there are a lot of people in our hair group forum with a lot of helpful answers and can be very supportive, many with lots of experience including myself. http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/topics

We have a nice group with some very kind and helpful members I am proud to call my friends. Please, consider joining and we will be more than happy to discuss anything hair related. . . . including FIA.

Check Those Flat Irons at the door Boys and Girls!

Life's a Bleach .. the Lightening of Melanin

Off the Hair Health Horse... back on the Hair Color Horse

Sorry I couldn't figure out why I was sleepy every time I've been posting lately...besides the usual medical crap going on, I was just unusually tired and just couldn't get inspired...I NEED TO WRITE ABOUT HAIR COLOR, to keep me jazzed and alive. So I am just going to have to alternate the posts, for fear of falling asleep and never waking up. DO NOT GET ME WRONG, Hair Health is as important a subject as there is, I promise you. But, for me I have done all of that writing and reporting... it was completed over the past 6 years  - so its simply a matter of "re-writing" my notes - which I guess is what was pushing the snooze button for me.
I  NEED  SOMETHING  ABOUT  HAIR  COLOR  TO  MAKE ME HAVE TO WRITE  FROM SCRATCH - its what made me become involved - inspired and REJUVENATED once again....something I very much NEED. So back we go. I ordered a couple of new Doll heads . . . Molly & Dolly's cousin's are on their way from back east. If you don't know who Molly and Dolly are . . . SHAME on you -- see here >> http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/12/ble-atched-hair-series-1.html.
They are showing ble-atched- super light blond's well into the Fall - and its the subject I simply get the most questions about... getting to LEVEL 12 successfully & beautifully. So today we are going over the process from a different POV, twisted technical.
Hang on.
Below the surface off the skin is the hair root: above it is the hair shaft.

The hair root is housed in a sheath, a pocket in the skin, called a follicle. At the bottom of the follicle ( deep in skin) is the hair bulb. Cells that become a strand of hair are produced in the hair bulb, the LIVING PART OF THE HAIR, from which the hair grows. At the base of the bulb, nourishing it, is the papilla, a tiny mound of tissue laced with capillaries.
 
The hair shaft is comprised primarily of cross linked, fibrous proteins called Keratin. Keratin accounts for 90-95% of the hair weight.
Structures in the hair bulb called melanocytes make melanin, or natural pigment. that gives the strand color.2-3% of total weight comes from melanin.
How is hair formed?
The papilla supplies AMINO ACIDS ( remember this - I feel amino acids are important for new hair growth) to the hair bulb; the hair bulb produces keratinous cells; melanocytes infuse melanin into these protein-based cells; then, finally, the cells dry out and harden to form the hair strand ( called keratinization) which emerges from the follicle.
There are 2 types of melanin

• Eumelanins - the darker pigments from black to brown
• Pheomelanins - lighter, ranging from red-brown to red-yellow to yellow

All hair no matter what color it is (except white- unpigmented) contains both in varying degrees. Very black Asian hair is heavily pigmented but may contain only eumelanin.
The color of a strand of hair depends on how much melanin it contains, the proportion of eumelanin TO pheomelanin  + the pattern of distribution of the melanin. There are additional descriptions of how these work but truly this all you need to know to understand 'basically' how the hair's VIRGIN color. . .  GOT there!
LIGHTENING OF MELANIN
From your POV, the most important thing to know about melanin is what happens to it in the presence of hair color.  The color result depends as much on the natural pigmentation of the hair as it does on the artificial pigment used; the same ash brown formula may look ORANGE-Y on one natural base, drab on another, and Neutral on a third....something I try my damndest to explain to everyone.

Recognizing what depth the hair is to start with and how it will change tonally when lightened allows you to anticipate the final result. So many of you are so surprised & shocked at your results, which I guess really can only subside with experience. 
Through the years, all the various color manufacturers have come up with ways of getting this process across to hair colorists {and now ME to you }  . . . . but the point of any theory of lightening is to drive home the idea that the color result depends on MORE THAN WHAT YOU put in the BOWL - -  it also depends on the color contribution of YOUR hair on your head.  So no matter how many rules we come up with and no matter how many different ways we try to teach lightening of the hair, going from Level 6 Brown Hair to that rocking Level 12 that you have always wanted to be. . . .  it also depends on the color contribution of that hair on your head right now.
Natural color contribution depends on:

1. the original virgin color &
2. how much you lighten it

The natural base level and the lightening capability of your formula, determine the color contribution of your hair.
The color contribution of the hair AND
the artificial pigment used...determine the color result.
Natural color
+ lightening capability of the formula
= the color contribution of the hair
AND
The color contribution of the hair
+  the artificial pigment
= the Color result

Are you getting this...??  Color contributions of the hair is referred to any one of different ways: undertones, underlying pigment, natural  underlying pigmentation, pigment bases, residual pigment contribution, natural contribution of the hair, lightened natural pigment and remaining natural color.
Any of these term can be substituted in that last equation (above).

SEVEN STAGES OF LIGHTENING
This concept concerns the color changes that happen when hair is exposed to a product capable of lightening it.
One of the best lessons in hair coloring is how the FINAL Result depends as much on the natural contribution ( remember what YOUR hair has IN it naturally - as it was when you were born) of the hair a s it does on the artificial dyes, and the seven stages of lightening is a way to tell that story.
The 7 stages of lightening are the colors that hair attains as it is lightened with either permanent hair coloring or bleach.
If hair bleaching could be viewed in super SLOW MOTION, these are the tonal stages that would be seen during the progression from dark to light.
The 7 stages of lightening are:

1. BLACK
2. BROWN
3. RED
4. RED-GOLD
5. GOLD
6. YELLOW
7. PALE YELLOW

  When hair is exposed to a lightener agent, its black and brown pigments are first to begin to break down or oxidize ( the eumelanin lightens first). Then the red & gold pigments gradually oxidize  - then yellow and pale yellow stages are simply lighter and lighter version of gold.

Notice 5 of the 7 stages have to do with red and gold, this is due to the tenacity of these colors in the hair. In other words, they are IMPOSSIBLE to get out of the hair! It takes longer to eliminate Red and forever to eliminate GOLD. I am hoping you will all relate this to your experience of being stuck in the "gold" stage as though it seemed like FOREVER 
The most sought after goal when going Gwen Stefani BLOND . .Pale Yellow, I refer to it as frozen butter. Pale yellow is the lightest hair can become without destroying the hair. Pale Yellow can be toned to be almost any color on the planet...including white.
I am hoping with this series in the long run I will see less banana-heads on the street, realizing fully what a grand wish that is, I am still hopeful - they make me shiver.
There are 3 parts to this  Post. . . I will finish it in the next 8 days. . . . so stay tuned!                                                               
Killer Chemist

Shower Up With New Strands of Hair : Step 4 of 10,000 HEADS

Water
& the Shower Filter
...its affect on your hair

Step 4 Shower Water Filter

Water is extremely important within the 10,000 HEADS System; it is the subject of 2 steps because of the time it spends ‘on’ and ‘in’ your body and scalp. The water used on your hair when you shampoo and rinse is extremely important and alters both the length of your hair color and the overall condition and health of your hair. Any process or product that results in damage to the hair strand and hair follicle needs to be analyzed and re-evaluatede as we continue our quest for Killer Strands.

This step is also made on the assumption that your tap water is as pathetic as it is in this area, if you have wonderful water–count your blessings, and you may also skip this step. For the remainder of you, it is the chlorine, most likely that you taste, chlorine is used to disinfect water, but at certain levels is not safe for drinking, showering or bathing. That water is as bad for your hair strands as it is for your taste buds.

The chlorine that is in today’s water is at dangerous levels within the bathroom, when you take a hot shower the chlorine vaporizes in the air, combines with other organic compounds in the air and forms chloroform gas, which is a strong irritant to the lungs and causes fatigue. Besides the lungs the chlorine wrecks havoc on the hair and it appears as dried out, frazzled and depleted, it is one of the worst types of damage and very difficult to recover from. Young water polo players and swimmers come through the clinic, and with the chlorine levels in competitive swimming pools super high, the damage in these 16, 17, 18 year olds hair comes very close to some of the worst we’ve seen, it is almost the same as oxidation from peroxide burning where you will also see a lot of breakage and splitting. (If you have someone experiencing this problem please email the clinic killerstrands@gmail.com for the proper treatment suggestion, we have this solved with a fairly easy protocol).

To solve this problem of lousy water there are 3 levels of solutions, which depend on the amount of money you can spend and the type of living arrangement you have.

MALIBU 2000 WELL WATER SHAMPOO: Cheapest, easiest and works for traveling…a good clarifying shampoo. Now this can be tricky and the only brand that I have ever found (the Head Colorist at Vidal Sassoon turned me on to) is MALIBU2000. They have a number of different shampoos and protein packs, the one you want is the shampoo that says “WELL WATER ACTION shampoo” Sulfate-free. They have done the impossible, created a gentle for your color/ hair follicle shampoo that cleanses the chlorine and other grime out of the water so it is not sitting on the hair, day in and day out. This works when you cannot afford the shower filter, but our number 1 choice for this step is the:

SHOWER WATER FILTER: There are dozens of them out there, and everyone claims to be better than the next. The plan is to get a list of “KILLER – Shower Filters”, to help distinguish the good from the bad. The Aquasana brand seems to be the one many of you end up with, I would say you are safe with that one. Use www.AllergyBuyersClub.com for a nice selection and good service. Keep track of when you bought the filter and buy enough filters for the year (great gift idea for someone to get you). You save $$ if you buy filters when you purchase the shower head, but it is imperative to change the filter when recommended or it becomes useless. Another advantage to the filter: helps with the pH balance of your hair; imperative for soft, shiny hair.

WHOLE-HOUSE SYSTEMS: There are even more companies that do this than the other 2 combined. The issue regarding the chlorine in the water and the chloroform bomb the hot water creates has become well known, as it is dangerous for asthmatics and bothersome to those with lung problems, so the water industry has grown a lot in the last 10 years to help take care of the demand. Call 4 or 5 water treatment companies in your area, with Kenmore(Sears) being one of them, get estimates and tell them you are looking for water that will be as nice as Reverse Osmosis treated water and your concerns with your hair. Pick one and let us know how they do so we can start up a list of, “KILLER – water treatment companies”.

Using either of the last 2 methods will do wonders for your skin and the shower stall as well. Having that change in the water will give you softer, smoother skin and will keep your shower stall much cleaner so the purchase actually solves 3 problems, not bad for a single purchase.