Blee-atched Blonde Hair Series #3 - Mighty Molly's 'do

Application of Ble-aach -- Molly's new 'do

This series of photos is demonstrating the 2nd Bleaching (almost always necessary) I'm only applying it on the one sideto Molly so you can see the difference between what is normally done at home and what we do at the Salon . (Everyone at home would only apply bleach once - hair is stronger than you think !)
This is showing the 2nd bleaching on the left side > see the 1 inch left alone after the 1st bleaching??

Using the 1/8" partings and going up the one side and quickly going up the second side...trying to get the back finished so you can move to the front is very helpful. This is where you will benefit from experience.Using a comb after each application of bleach will work it into the hair, all strands need to be saturated.

The usual method for a virgin bleach is applying it 1 inch OFF THE SCALP...why? Because the lengths of the hair lift (lighten) so much slower than the roots,

Here the 2nd side has all the bleach applied - although not on roots yet

for many reasons. #1 being pre-existing artificial pigment (old hair color), its rare to find many people that don't have some color in their hair. But lets just say you are a true virgin, still you would be applying the first application the same. 1 inch off the scalp and if the ends are super porous then off the ends as well.

On this left front piece I plan on demonstrating "OVERLAPPING" to many of you that have requested it, therefore am bleaching the lengths a couple times to use for this

Bleaching is not an easy project period. I love doing it and after you do it a few times its not near as complicated as this probably sounds, it really isn't - so do not get discouraged. My goal is to get America bleaching their hair like Stefani, and Aguillera...so they aren't the only ones with Killer Platinum hair !!

For the Perfect Platinum
The absolute best way to have this done successfully and evenly is to bleach your "new growth" roots every 8-14 days...that is exactly what Gwen, Christina, Pink, and any other dynamite platinum headed hottie does. I realize that 'sounds' difficult...it really isn't, it ends up easier because once you get the "underlying pigment" out of the lengths( yellows-oranges-golds) all you are dealing with is the 1/4" of new growth, so you don't have to Tone constantly. The hair has all traces of yellows/golds knocked out. When you want you can apply toners, for different looks and fun. I have over 100 Toners for blondes and I make-up about 15 from scratch. Once I learned Toners were exactly like watercolors - a passion of mine, I began mixing and playing and never stopped. Now I really have given away one of many "HAIR SECRETS" -- kept quiet for many decades!

There is no more meticulous application than that for scalp bleach. The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning and hair that doesn't break and looks luxurious. It is so possible for all of you, I swear its just not that hard of a project, you will see.

Taking fine sections is important - make sure they are thin enough to see through is a good rule of thumb. With retouches, you want to be careful of overlapping which I will show you in upcoming photo and posts. You must go far enough but not too far, which I promise we will cover thoroughly, I have had many requests on this subject.

You have to overlap a certain amount because of that dreaded LINE OF DEMARCATION, which can be difficult when bleaching. I find many occasions where I am mixing up a new batch of bleach & 40 volume to re-apply to that line, to get rid of it, so important. At times you will have to use your fingers (gloves on) to work the bleach into the that line or any other stubborn area of color that won't come out. Have you ever had to work in detergent to get out a stubborn stain in a white t-shirt? Same thing. Any stubborn areas --> apply a brand new mixed up batch of bleach and 40V, working it through, don't leave it on too long, rinse right away and dry to see how it looks. You may have to do it again until you learn what it looks like when it is completely out. I've been doing these for 15 years, of course it takes me once...but it sure didn't at the beginning.

Here's Molly's head taken with a FLASH, these 2 don't do her hair justice ...The left side has been bleached twice and I am hoping in one of these 4 photos in your computer you will be able to see the difference.
If you are lifting past yellow, which most of you will be...be patient. Gold is always the toughest pigment to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow. Patience -- patience, leave the bleach on for 60-70 minutes, then re-apply
Here is the chart of how the color LEAVES the hair strand....starting at level 1... as the bleach works it takes out the UNDERLYING PIGMENT according to this chart. As the Red-Brown is elminated...then you will see the Red, then as that is elminated, then you see the Red-Orange...and so on. According to the above paragraph "GOLD" is the toughest to get out, which you will learn is the truth....Level 7 thru Level 9 are the slowest to come out

I've included 2 different lightings of the back of Molly's head for you, both suck, hopefully you'll get the idea,they are of the same thing in the same day in the same light none of them looked like it did to the naked eye, the left side has been bleached 1 full hour longer than the right...can you see it? Maybe on your computer (hopefully)
These are after the Shampoo and the 2nd bleaching on the left side (back and front)

Rinsing after a bleach: Always use cool water (or lukewarm- just NOT hot) Bleach usually creates its own heat, alot has to do with each persons chemical make-up as to how warm each one of you gets. RINSE -- RINSE -- RINSE with cool water, it takes a while...NO SHAMPOO at this point. Just rinse with clear water until all of the product is out of the hair. As soon as you are sure the bleach is out, then give it a very light shampoo with a very mild shampoo, the scalp will be sensitive - be gentle. Plus, you have to apply again (roots) so be gentle. A light shampoo consists of lightly rubbing the lather into the hair for 20 seconds and rinsing it out MOST OF THE TIME.

One of the many secrets I apply in bleachings, came from my days as a cosmetic chemist. When I absorbed from my Chemist mentor that bleach truly does its main work in the first 55-65 minutes, after that it is minimal, I changed my technique. Most top stylists will leave that first application of bleach on for 2-3-4 hours (think Asian Hair or previously colored hair). Me...I take it off at 55 minutes...remix a new application and re-apply. Therefore a turbo boost version of bleach is applied which knocks out more of that annoying underlying pigment. This is what you do when you are doing Couture hair ...hair on models, fashion shows, Hair shows... yes we turn Level 1 Hair to Level 12, something I just told you wasn't a great idea.......why?

To show that "we Can !!!"....its an art, it is not very practical and is very expensive ( unless you are doing it to yourself !)

That "I Can" get every single bit of underlying pigment out of the Asian head of hair is an amazing accomplishment. Going to Sassoon that was the very first bleaching I did. An Asian advertising student from Pepperdine ( amazing I can remember that). My Instructor had me do a 2" Frame of White Hair around her entire head along her hairline, plus tint the black part a Midnight-Violet-Black....it was an incredible feeling accomplishing that. That is when I decided this was going to be a very cool ride

Remember > to do some of these radical procedures the hair MUST....I repeat MUST, be in good condition please don't apply Bleach to hair that is in poor condition, if you do, you will be very sorry. What I will be more than happy to do for Killerstranders> if you have any questions about the condition of your hair, have 3-4 photos of your hair, 2 up-close - & email them to me. Many people have done that, it doesn't bother me, I actually feel better knowing I've seen your hair. The part of this site that is frustrating for me? Not being able to touch or feel or "see" the hair of all the people asking questions and asking for advice. The first thing I do when meeting a new client is put my hands through their hair, it tells me so very much.

NO touch...NO Feel, and NO SIGHT ????

Wow, this is a whole new talent in hair styling. Virtual Hair Styling - I guess. Once the photos started coming I felt a little better, so please...if you can, they are more than welcome.

I remember hair with names, just names with NO HAIR for me are difficult

PRECIOUS METALS when it comes to BLONDES

Metals like GOLD > SILVER & PLATINUM

Blee-atched Blonde Hair Series #2

2nd Part of Hair Bleach and Tone Series -
Preliminary Preparation for Bleaching Process
Happy New YearBOYS AND GIRLSLet continue on with our blee-ached blonde series by BAAAcking up!

I jumped ahead a bit in all my excitement...and need to back up a bit to make sure you have all the preliminary basics - I take for granted




.
8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.

# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment: having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural pigment.



Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Bleach




Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.

• Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way they have you mix it, is important.
• A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be mixing two packets or one at first. Remember almost everyone will want to have 30V or 40 Volume on the “ends” and never higher than 20 Volume on the roots (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school!
diagram2A

• For 1 Packet: Pour 2 OZ 40 Volume Developer (30 Volume or ?for end remember) into bowl first – see diagram 2A
diagram2B

• Add contents of 1 lightener packet (bleach) > mix, stir or shake until dissolved – Diagram 2B
diagram 2C


• Add 1 OZ of OIL (dark blue liquid) & mix thoroughly until smooth: the mixture will be like thick-smooth-rich- whipped cream almost – Diagram 2C & 2D





• diagram2D
  I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle, we were never allowed to in Academy so am accustomed to the bowl & tint brush method & doubt I could ever warm up to anything else... But, more power to you…whatever works the best and is the most thorough for you.

** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.

** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next