If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise. Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.
This is when you grab your Color Wheel.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?...............Purple
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps. We have begun to include a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the newer Oil Bleach Kits. Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies always helps.
I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in!
For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.
What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be soooo
YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow
Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.
As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem.
- in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing
- redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
- objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color. Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the colour wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer..
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ??? Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.
Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names
- Semi-Permanent color
- Demi-Permanent color
Color Wheels for Reference