How to Bleach Hair At Home - Correctly

Our most asked about issue regarding hair color is 'how to get the brass out of Blond'.... that... & how to get blond hair at home without damage or problems.
If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise.  Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.
This is when you grab your Color Wheel.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?...............Purple
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps. We have begun to include a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the newer Oil Bleach Kits. Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies always helps.

I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in!
For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.

What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when  it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.

Notice the 2 completelydifferent shades (tones) of bleached blonde hair of these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be soooo

YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.

As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Purple.
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem. 

objectionable shades in hair colors

• in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing
• redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
• objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color. Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair

Yellow Bleached hair is probably one of the worst things on planet earth.
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the colour wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer..

Lighteners

As soon as Lighteners are mixed with hydrogen peroxide...it begins to release Oxygen. This process is known as oxidation - - - occurs within the cortex of the hair!

Again . . . Lighteners are used to create a BLOND shade that is no longer achievable
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ???         Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.

Lighteners usually come in 1 of 2 forms : Powder..............or Cream.

Here at Killerstrands we have the old school method of an "Oil Bleach" : Which means a bleach one can mix up with Oil + Developer and apply directly to the scalp without any irritation to the Client at all. Its funny in all my years there is no way to tell who will be sensitive to Lightener or not....therefore I ALWAYS apply Oil Bleach to a client who desires a look such as Mr. Pitt's (and whiter of course!!).

Powder Lightener ( powder bleach)

 This lightener is the old standard. Most everyone uses it for just about any lightening they have. I'm hesitant to tell you all the ways people MIS-Use it. So, I won't.

Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names

1. Toner


2. Semi-Permanent color


3. Demi-Permanent color

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / washing out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo. Here at Killerstrands, we make sure to ONLY SELL SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO!

Color Wheels for Reference

go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize

TECHNORATI ROX - ( I hope!?)

Technorati Profile

Color Wheel and Hair Color

Colour Wheel

Remember these from school?
Everyone must have broken out the Crayon box and colored a colour at some point in life. You may not remember, but it is a part of education in most countries, the reason ?
Every person see’s colors differently
Demonstrates no 2 colour wheels are the same; purpose of the exercise

Primary colors: Red, Yellow, blue
Secondary Colours: Green, Purple,Orange
Tertiary Colours: Red-Purple, Orange-Red,
Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Purple

Have you ever seen the colored shampoos/conditioners? For years they have had a product that grey hair older ladies use called “Shimmering Lights” it is a purple colored conditioner and shampoo , which takes the “yellow” out of grey, grey hair is actually hair with NO pigment in the strand and with all the lousy water, the yellowing is merely the water tingeing the grey/colorless hair, yellow. Why do you think they call them “blue hairs”?Overdoing“Shimmering Lights”!!

Permanent colours : are not the colour in the bowl they end up to be.
Semi Permanent ( no developer): This colour will look like the colour it ends up being on your hair.

ONE OF THE MORE BRILLIANT TRICKS FOR BLONDES
Another trick? With a very simple solution: make your own Toner Conditioner to use with every shampoo. At local beauty supply...

• purchase a bottle of one of many semi-permanent brilliant colors like: MANIC PANIC, CRAZY COLOURS, , purchase Purple.
• Buy your favorite daily conditioner and an empty plastic bottle or better yet a jar ( travel jar).
• Put 8 oz of your conditioner in a bowl, add about a teaspoon of the purple Crazy Colour, mix really well with a whisk and put back in the travel jar or bottle ( with funnel ). It will look like a lavender condtioner now ( it will lightly tone your hair every time you use it).

Directions for use: Shampoo hair at beginning of shower, apply conditioner letting it sit on hair for remainder of shower ( 4-8 minutes)… rinse hair as normal. Check hair in mirror, If still yellow – repeat process > add another teaspoon of purple to mixture. Continue doing this until the colour is right for your hair, going up a teaspoon at a time. If for some strange reason it is too purple…Shampoo once. Its semi-permanent and comes out very easily! Its both a matter of the right amount of purple and right amount of time you have left it on the hair, as factors that effect outcome. No reason to ‘buy’ the colored conditioners besides this will work a million times better as you have control over the amount of purple so it can be tremendously more effective .