January 23, 2017

Calculating A Hair Color Formula - KC's Infamous KILLER 18 Questions !

Hair Color FORMULATING....
with previous hair color on  ! 

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get their color Selection. Well, I say, NOT in today's world  !  

Therefore, I put together the NEW Killer 18 Questionnaire. Answer this honestly & completely =  your magical answer will appear.

The tricks of the trade in Hair coloring ? ? ? 
There are no tricks....it's all science/chemistry/art & experience. There is no guesswork if you learn THE LEVEL SYSTEM. It comes down to a combination of ART & Science. You need education in both to be successful and or a master of your own Crib Coloring adventures.

People want me to give them a one word answer for their hair color selection, I would LOVE to be able to do that. But, what I have found out in the years on this Blog? Most of you love hair coloring (I completely understand), and have many layers of color on your hair by the time you find me. That is unfortunate,  as it is the first red-flag in hair color analysis. It changes all the simple Rules, that were designed not too long ago by hair color manufacturers. 

 Killer 18 Questions by KC
for hair color FORMULA Selection when you have previous hair color on

  1. Texture & length ?
  2. Length of hair ?
  3. Ethnicity ?
  4. Has hair Been Bleached ?
  5. Porosity ?
  6. Boxed Color? How many?
  7. Percentage of Gray?
  8. What Type of Color is on ...Box? Professional?
  9.  Straightener? Ever?
  10. D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
  11. Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
  12. Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
  13. Current Color - Level & Tone?
  14. Desired Color - Level & Tone? 
  15. Damage? Extent of, all over or sections
  16. Your age ( ball park only ) '
  17. Your lifestyle
  18.  What is your favorite SHOE ?
If you need my help, I need the answers to those questions..... start working on them!

I've said this numerous times, but I hope for it to make sense in the "big" picture.
When you have previously colored hair it makes it very difficult to create any new color you desire. The fact that I have told you that the LEVEL SYSTEM is a chart of rules and numbers that one may use to come up with your new perfect formula, only pertains to those with VIRGIN hair. Now THAT my Dear, now-a-days is as rare as a Unicorn. Those rules and system work excellent on someone with virgin hair, but that just isn't that helpful any longer, not when grandma - Grandpa and the DOG !! have their hair colored already!

Just 30-40 years ago, people would go to the Salon with Virgin hair (never colored) ask for a new color...or (mostly) ask to get their gray covered...and they were done. Today, so many of you are lured by the advertising on TV, magazines & right here on the web. Your favorite stars have been paid an obscene amount of money to put on a (virgin!) wig that has been colored by that companies brand of color and smile and lie to you with no regrets or guilt at all. Most of you write and tell me that you grabbed a box of color at the grocery store/drugstore/ or weekly trip to Targeeee(t). Really, since when does the place you purchase the food you feed your children, sell boxes of color that any 11-13-15 year old can purchase and begin the long, downhill, arduous road to damaged hair? This all leads to the problems that end up here at Killerstrands and for which I spend hours trying to figure out ways for you to repair your hair & predict your next hair color choice! Whewwww !!

Many of you respond to me about VANISH...the hair color REMOVER we carry...."how come no one has heard of this product?" I am asked... "why don't more Stylists use it??". There is a saying that goes something like this: "however goes California...there follows the rest of the country"..its from a history book I was reading. 

There was a smile that hit my face when I read that....and I know it to be true.  I mean why? What makes us different out here, and especially in Los Angeles....there must be an answer for that. But that is my only reason on the Vanish question.

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get the color Selection. I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 18 Questions ...I will list them today & and in the next couple weeks will write a post on some, there are already 1-4 posts on each topic currently just put the title of the post you want to read in the SEARCH Bar and it will take you to all info pertaining to that subject. GOOGLE runs my BLOG and search engine so it works really well ! so they are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color. I will strive for the following:
  •  Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for the layman
  • Pictures to help
Laters !

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