November 22, 2015

AlI I Really Want Out Of Life is ROSE-GOLD Colored Hair !

You cannot open a magazine without seeing or someone mentioning Rose colored hair and the funny part about this new Stratosphere trend is that so many think it is brand new, which is really ( in the world of British trained Colorists, at least 15 years old).  I saw it for my first time the beginning  weeks of Hair Academy and I will never forget my mentor showing me the color and I didn't "get it AT ALL".   All the other color educators were oooohing and ahhhhing.....  
But she taught me that the true colors that were like gold if you could create them were the ones that did not come out of any bottle or tube....but colors that one created by mixing colors together or how ever you came up with the formula they were the odd colors the colors that the manufactured hair color companies have not figured out "HOW-TO-MAKE  YET" ! ! 

THOSE WERE THE COLORS THAT I SHOULD SET MY            SIGHTS ON AND SHOOT TO 
                                  BECOME AN EXPERT AT. 

That was a very long time ago so the fact that this has happened seems really odd to me..... I have seen it done and have done it my self using the below formula for the last 15 + years. Her color was Rose and mine was Silver and we would do every type of chunk of tips or whats now called ombre ( WE CALLED  Tip Drip!

Its all been around such a very long time and I am actually glad that the world now welcomes these colors instead of look at them as they are just for a "particular type of person". Art is art and in my opinion hair color is just one more form of art and I will never forget getting chewed out in front of an entire Salon full of people for bleaching a young mans hair.... pure white and when he tipped his chin to his chest there was a beautifully shaded and all  ............. 4 leaf Green Clover. 

It was his mother and they were 100% IRISH  and the next day was St.Patricks Day...I too am 100% Irish so I was proud to do this and this was in 2001!  But I ended up in tears, but thank Lord the owner came to my rescue 3/4 of the way through her tirade. "how could you do something like this to a young man of his nature"...........1st of all I was about the farthest thing from Cheap you could be and he paid me for it, he was 16 you would assume he got the money from his parents. Although we were in Malibu so kids walk around with black AM EX's all the time....so I didn't take that into account. Anyway, thank the Lord aeveryone and there brother is walking around with crazy hair now!

First off we had to create the color from existing colors where as today there is a slow trail of Rose-Gold hair colors coming out from all of the major hair color manufacturers. That is how high fashion works, the ideas and colors and trends always follow something in history or nature or something that inspires me/ an artist or a Colorist in any Salon or World.

As far as hair color I feel I have decided to give you the formula we have used in Sassoon all these years. I was saving it for a book I wanted to write but I don't think that is going to happen, so you get a lovely surprize for Thanksgiving week - one of my secret formulas.

 


We have been making this Rose color for over 15 years we just never have this whole marketing bombshell behind it. We have made it by mixing 2 Koleston Perfect colors as you can see right here on this DEMO I did just to show you. I took a brunette ( real virgin human hair) and lightened her hair with Blondor's COOL BLONDE Cream lightener and used back to back foils to hurry the process up. Which you can see worked nicely. This was 2 applications. So many of you are so anxious to be done with coloring you lighten with one step and quit and wonder why you have to battle with brass all the time. Lighten one more time and you end up with this beautiful shade of blond with zero toner.



 Next. . . . You would begin by applying Gleam to hair, leaving on hair overnight prior to color day or at least apply 30-60 minutes prior to color. Next you mix 28 Grams of Koleston Perfect in 9/16AV with 3 grams of 6/45RV in a Tint bowl, stir these 2 colors together first ...then add 30 Grams of 10Volume Developer. Adjust accordingly if you need more color, all I needed was a small amount for this front quadrant of the hair !  Now take quadrant and begin at the bottom taking small sections applying with a tint brush as fast & as efficiently as possible to cover entire section. Process 45 minutes, rinse well. Apply INTENSIVE - leave on at least 25 minutes. Rinse and Dry and Style as usual. You will have the Rose look and a formula kept secret in the upper echelons for many many years. How do you may Rose? mixing White and Red/Violet if you you mix Red and white you get pink so its this very thin line between the two you may play with by varying the amount of 6/45 you put in the formula but this is perfect in real life I promise you.




Another choice is the MAGMA formula I came up with as well you can see it on the photos below with the dollhead next to the bottles of MAGMA.  AGAIN you would mix Red/Violet with White....which is done bu mixing Wella's pigmented lighteners called MAGMA ..........use colors #/89....which is Pearl Cendre or the white and color #65 VRV which again is the one you use a little tiny bit of see the front 2 inches of her hair, I should have used a little bit more of the #/65VRV but it is beautiful light rose and the chunk in the back is half and half so its a pretty bright rose.( too bright but I wanted to see what that would make.

BTW, I grabbed the wrong bottle for the photo so don't let that throw you off......be sure you use /89 which is made for Level 6-7 which is for this doll. Or if you have darker ( Levels hair use the /89+ which is made if you have Level 2 - 5 hair. These pigmented lighteners are really a dream , just look at how beautiful that front 2 inches of hair is with that formula. Yes, I would now add 2 more grams ., but even like it is is the prettiest blonde I have ever fricken seen.....and that is saying a LOT!

1 comment:

  1. Hello!

    I am completely in love with this blog. You put science into it and make it so much easier. For rose-gold hair color, how do i pay for a consultation? I want to do Guy Tang's color version but I need help since I had rose-gold done before by a stylist but wish to do it on my own now and the roots have grown out a bit. I'm trying to bring the color up and I have many questions about the lightening process. Thanks!

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