February 9, 2015

Become a Crib Colorist : Learn the Level System of Hair Color

I receive a tremendous amount of emails with many of you being worried over "trying to calculate your VIRGIN Level color" . . . especially if you have gray mixed in with your virgin color. It should not be anything that worries you. If you have a pretty recent computer & monitor or I-pad, the colors you see on this Post will be very close to what they are in person. If you have salt & pepper hair many times you may need a friends (or husbands) help so they can look at your hair on the back ... underneath... for an accurate Level. But truly, if there is that much gray then just do your best using the last Level you remember it being. Having that much gray should be a very important part of coming up with the formula.

Understandingg the LEVEL SYSTEM of HAIR COLOR

Everyone MUST understand a few of the basic rules of Hair Color, they are not difficult, they are easy. I want you to understand them so a much larger percentage of women will be able to color their hair at home and it will come out correctly. There are just too many people having their hair destroyed by BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS...they should be destroyed - in my opinion.
It involves more flexibility, so you are not given a set bottle of hair color with a set bottle of peroxide ( that come in those damn Kits).

The Most Accurate Level Chart Level 1 thru 10 ... I have online
LEVEL is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color; it is sometimes referred to as value or depth. Colorists use the LEVEL SYSTEM to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color

(see above).
Hair color levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 12, with 1 being the darkest and 12 being the lightest ( not too long ago it was 1-10 some new HIGH LIFT Blonde's added 2 more light levels). The names for the natural hair color levels may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but they each use this chart as the base.What I want you to learn here is simple....try to get very comfortable with these Levels and especially:  

KNOW YOUR OWN VIRGIN LEVEL OF COLOR (without color on it) we sell a great little chart that I made and laminated so you could use it for years. This is an important piece of info and will be important for the rest of your life (even though it will change as you turn grey!)

If you are a redhead (as am I) its a tiny bit more complicated, you still use the same chart to figure it out, you would just draw your finger across the chart to the different "hues" it goes from Gold/Red to Red to Red/Gold to Red/Violet and keeps going as well.
For example:
which means my virgin hair is a LEVEL 8  and my tonal categories are: Gold/Red (or Light Copper). Knowing that piece of info helps me be able to figure out more accurately what to use to color my hair with success.

You will impress the Hell out of your Hair stylist as well, if you go into your next appointment spouting off the "levels" - they will be very impressed. I have run into many a Hair Stylist that still have not memorized them (but they should).

Using and knowing this chart really well, is what you need to learn in order for you to become a good CRIB COLORIST.

5 comments on "Become a Crib Colorist : Learn the Level System of Hair Color"
  1. Hi, I chanced upon your blog and I'm actually having sort of a hair friss problem. I've rebonded my hair since Jan/Feb and till like recently, I noticed my hair started to have those hairs curling outwards. I've just tried cutting the curls part off. Do you have any solution? As it's not just one of two hair sticking out and curling outwards,but is alot of it and it seems as if my hair is really really dry despite i've used condition. - Candy

  2. Candy,

    For a chemist hearing the word "rebonding", is frustrating.

    Rebonding is merely the same process we have been doing for years altho it used to be called a RELAXER. Then someone came up with the term,Japanese Straightening" ....Now this. The chemical make-up is the important part and someone is making a whole lot of money on a "marketing term".Clever, but not fair to the public.
    What you are doing is using the STRONGEST chemical made to be put on your hair. It is very very harsh and if it is not done absolutely correctly you are going to have breakage which it sounds like you have.
    Can you please tell me what your hair was like "before" you did the so-called "Rebonding"...and "after". That way I can tell what exactly they did.
    I need the answer to these questions:
    1)length of hair? 2)color on hair? 3)virgin hair? Hair w/ nothing on it, what was it like? 4)where did u have it done? 5) cost? 6) how happy were u with treatment?

    The more you tell me, the more I can help you, and the more you will help others.

    Do not cut it, just hold off till I get a better idea of what you are dealing with.
    Answer the questions I will be able to tell you more.
    Thank you for your question

    "Killer Chemist"

  3. Hi, the length of my hair is between the shoulder and the armpit. The colour of my hair is black. Actually i've done rebonding twice. The first time is around 2004 and it went off less than 5 months. This is the 2nd time which i did in Feb 2007 and the rebond seems to have gone off already. If i've nothing put on my hair, it will have those curl frizz coming off my head and it's alot of it. And if i take 1 strand of the curl hair, it will curl back. The thing is, this curl frizz is rather short. The frizz start from the top of my head to my ear and u can imagine my hair having many curl frizz from the top of my head to the ear.It's not just one side of my hair but both side. The 1st rebond i done is in a salon in a house costing of Sin $50. The 2nd time which is now,is at a neighbourhood salon Sin $100. I'm happy with the treatment for the 2nd rebond as it makes my hair more manageable but now,is like my hair has gone dead. And yah, i've sensitive scalp. Have been hard time trying to get rid of the dandruff.


  4. HI Candy,

    You must be from Europe or?
    I am confused by some of your terms so it makes it hard to help you. Tell me if this is correct...you have a lot of hairs that are "broken off" and frizzing & curling up >correct?

    It sounds as though you have long black hair and have had it "rebonded", the first time it was pretty good, but the next times it was not as good. Is that right? Can I just ask you....what is "a house costing of Sin"?? you totally lost me there. But anyway you look at it, you are getting this for WAY TOO cheap, which means you are going to destroy your hair, I hate to say. Rebonding (which there really is no such thing it is a marketing term) or Straightening, done correctly should take many many hours to do and apply correctly... and should cost for hair YOUR LENGTH between $400. & $700.
    It should take the person who does it 6-7 hours to finish it off correctly.

    What you are having is BREAKAGE, your hair is breaking off where they have put the white creme straightening solution and then overlapped on top of the previously treated Section <> the next time.
    A Hair Stylist is absolutely NOT supposed to overlap a previously treated section of hair, or it will start breaking off, the solution itself is the strongest solution known to man that is allowed to be put on the hair., what these people are calling "rebonding" is the Keratin they spray on the section after they have put the straightening creme on.
    But I hate to tell you there is no such thing as the RE-Bonding of hair. Which is what is happening to you.

    You must begin to Deep OVERNIGHT condition your hair Once a week EVERY week with a product from the company Avlon Industries - can you order over the Internet?

    Order these 2 products they will begin the repair of your hair.:


    and this;

    { if you do indeed get them I will give you precise directions on how to use them)

    Do not do this process again or your hair is going to all break off, I promise you....and I would hate for that to happen.

    Please, let me know if you have any other questions...

    Thank you,
    Killer Chemist

  5. Hello Dakota!

    Thank you so much for this blog. I have bought the KeraCare. I have course, dry asian hair.

    How should I proceed? Once a week?

    Please let me know.

    Thank You,


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