May 28, 2013

'Tones' In The Level System of Hair Color : Part 2

Tones and understanding them are more important than the Levels...even though that is what they named the entire System. When you applied your Hair Color you aoolied or even that you had done at a big fancy Salon and it was goofed up...what do you complain about? ... not the Level ...you don't normally say "OMG my hair is too dark or too light" (most commonly, I should say) the issue normally is with the "Tone"..... 'its too brassy or too red or too BLORANGE ! ! ha ha or something in one of the many many tonal categories. 
Learning the intricate part of each Brand is so finely tuned you must study each line separately.....Because each one has its own directions and ratio's and tonal categories !

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Now here is a great chart that shows you the under-"TONES" on every Level  when it is virgin hair the category that says:"UNDERTONES of Existing Shade" is the virgin hair category. 
Then it shows every tone that becomes exposed as you lift ( lighten) the hair. Even if you are using a Level 9 on a Level 7, By the way which category would that example put you in? ? ? ?Anyone Know? Guess Below??

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What we will do here today is speak about the Tonal categories in most lines of hair color today. I'm going to use the chart that has the most categories so you will see the wide range these companies can reach to in making their lines of color.

    Tonal Categorys (for fun!)

So here is the Category that is in every line and the one we use the most. NATURAL or NEUTRAL. There are no tones it is just flat and given the number "0" to describe it. This is used to get a neutral tone with no warmth and no coolness - right smack in the middle

  Next is INTENSE NEUTRAL, or NN is how it is described in most lines. This has double neutral pigment, & what do u think we would use that for? To cover stubborn or resistant gray. This tonal category would always be used for that no matter which Level. This would always be used for resistant or hard to cover gray. Always!

Natural Tan or Beige is the most commonly used term, which creates natural looking rich warm tones. Perfect for gray coverage as one must use warm colors when covering gray even if u don't want a warm tone. Its the whole having no tone in the hair thing.
Natural Ash, which mean a little bit of Neutral and a little bit of Ash, with a blue-violet base it produces neutral cool tones and controls unwanted orange.yellow tones. This works well in gray coverage.
A Blend of Ash and Gold equals Beige and equals a classic beige blonde which is one of my favorite tonal looks.
Ash is such an argued about category...I mean every single company uses a different color to use for their Ash base...I mean look at this one they use BLUE! Which to be perfect honest it makes me want to try their color, and you know why>? Blue gets rid of BLORANGE ! and so many blonde's have enough of that tone floating around.Wella use's green, Kaaral uses gray, LANZA uses Violet which in my mind is what it is supposed to be....to get rid of all the brass that flys everywhere!!
Pearl is Violet/Blue which controls all the unwanted orange tones that come when lifting.

VIOLET :Blue & Red make violet therefore when one uses violet based darker colors it comes out in Burgandy colors...when added to lighter levels it kills all that nasty brass we fight when lifting. I love me some violet when blonding.Nothing is better.
Red/Gold base produces luminous warm reds, most people would reffer to this as Copper


Red mahogany is referred to as /Red brown or Auburn I guess....base creates beautiful natural reds


Red : Formulated with a true red base that ensure rich vibrant tones.....this is that bright ass Red I call it.


Intense Red base creates extremely wow red tones....even redder than above!



Red/Orange Base  this produces bold red- copper tones. Now all of these can be use in tiny amounts or 50% of the formula, that's where the experience comes in and strand tests work for...


Copper: orange base, which may sound really weird but if you have some blue you need toned down this is your girl !



Gold/Red Base produces beautiful rich, warm mahogany tones. This is the tone that the actress : Jessica Chastain has ...that is so darn popular right now.

Gold - gold base creates gold tones and if you have blue tones u would use this to tone it down......every tone can be used for both a base and to cancel unwanted Tones out your color.

Intense Gold: Creates radiant brilliant golden tones.



So that is about the biggest tonal chart I have ever seen so I wanted to use this one. Now if you have any questions please ask them now so I know what to continue writing about within the Tonal category. Which I would love to do but I need help with the direction to go in....
I hope this has helped a little....It really is the hardest part of hair coloring.

34 comments:

  1. Thank you so much! I was having such a hard time looking for a Violet/Blue toner to get rid of my brassy gold color. Had no idea they fell under pearl. Kinda new at this. :)

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  2. So if I mix a pearl and violet toner, it will take care of all blorange tones?

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  3. Yes, BLORANGE maybe be conquered by using colors that have the word Cendre in it...even tho cendre means ash in french somehow it has been transversed into a great Toner for Blorange.

    LANZA's Level 8-9-10 Pearl are great toners for BLORANGE - start with 6 Volume

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  4. I have been coloring my hair for 15 years from brunette to blonde and back to brunette I have long thick natural curly hair with 30% Grace I used to semipermanent the last two months and have brassy orange tones I want to highlight before going on vacation any suggestions to go from medium Gold copper brown to light brown with honey highlight I'm over 50 and have a light tan thank you California girl

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  5. Before I saw your last sentence I thought to myself ( just like all my previous clientele !) I've not been fond of highlights for quite some time ( unless they are used for a very specific reason)
    "Highlights are History is my saying"
    Grace I love that word.....I must start using it....we use to only refer to it as silver...but thought that whole stigma left the continent. To be honest, it sounds like you know exactly what you want.

    If you are asking 'how' to go from gold copper brown to light brown with highlights, I would truthfully suggest: head to a professional. To get highlights even - is very difficult to do to oneself. I would never attempt it on myself. I am not all against professionals, this site was started mainly to help those who had no access to good professional help and for one color work with any special work in the front (like a veil)only.
    hth
    KC

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  6. Pleaaase, help~ My Natural hair is a dark brown (3 or 4 I think) and I've been dying it Ruby Red (Igora Brilliance 688) for about a year and mixing it with a Deep Ruby Red(688i, pretty much the same, just an itty bitty bit darker), but I want to switch it up a bit, and I wanted to try and mix a coppery medium brown (if that really makes any sense) with the ruby red, but I don't know if that would turn out nicely...Because the problem with my hair is that 2 washes aftee I color it, it goes really dark (a sort of brown wine red color..like, blood Red or something, I don't know) and I think it might be because of how dark my natural hair is..I know I make no sense, I just want a nice red color, a crossover between Emma Stone and Scarlet Johansson's Black Widow look on the avengers... My skin is beige/brown (I'm from Venezuela) So, if you have another idea for something that might work for me..? Thanx! Att: Haruna Galaxy

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  7. Hello!

    I was wondering, do you have any tips on how to measure and mix the color? (If you already covered this, I apologize. I read through the blog but maybe I missed this part. I especially liked the photos on how to section your hair, which are **excellent** and super-helpful!)

    I usually only need to cover my grey roots, of which there are not yet very many, so I don't mix that much product, and right now, I use a little plastic measuring cup that came in a Jolen-type bleach kit. No real disasters yet, but that could just be luck. (So far, I've been getting away with not doing my whole head.)

    I bet there is a more accurate way. I would love to know how to do it right, with confidence.

    I hope you are doing well, and I love the look of the new store! If I weren't broke-ish, I'd have one of everything already!!

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  8. I have to say I am very impressed with the way you efficiently blog and your posts. Thank you for talking about every one of these wonderful Posts.I love them and looking out forward for your new posts.
    gray hair

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  9. Hi I just so happened to stumble across your blog on underlying tones and first I have to commend you on your explanation of it all making it easier to understand for those non professionals. I actually am an ex prof of 15 years and can't believe I'm having to ask this but I'm stumped!
    I'm in the process (day 3 to be exact) of stripping my level 3 very intense red auburn hair and working towards level 8 blonde with beige tone. My problem is after 3 rounds of stripping the color and 2 30v bleach washes and one 40v bleach I can't get past orange/Cooper mid shaft to ends but have successfully managed platinum roots! Haha! Do you have any suggestions on ridding of this awful orange/copper so I can tone and be done??
    Thank you
    Heather

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  10. I'm puzzled by your question I think!?!?!?
    I don't believe in using bleach to remove color that is not at all the "right tool for the proper job"
    which is what I promote and what I teach...
    Always use the proper tool for the proper job
    Bleach is for lightening the hair
    VANISH is for removing hair color
    Your results are exactly 'why' one doesn't use bleach to remove hair color

    ....you cannot get past the orange unless you leave bleach on longer

    you need to do some additional reading...
    you must lighten and tone or darken with a toner for a different look

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  11. whoops , sorry, didn't end it correctly...
    hope that helps
    KC

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  12. Hi - I searched your site for the answer to "How to fix white highlights that look gray" but to no avail. I sat under the hair dryer too long at the salon, and my hair is white when it was suppose to be highlighted to golden blonde! This happened almost a year ago, and I've been told that all I can do is to cut it regularly and to add toner. Your suggestions would be wonderful as to how I can get to the golden blonde that I use to be!

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  13. If its been a year aren't they almost grown out? If not then you need to get on the 10,000HEADS Healthy Hair Protocol.
    Otherwise you need to be very careful with hair that has been over bleached, the answers are in this Post:
    http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search?q=gray+highlights
    you can use semi permanent color by Clairol which is called THE BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION, to tone down , until they grow out.
    hth
    KC

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  14. Hi there! I love your blog - very very useful. My stylist bleached my hair (roots level 3, rest of the hair was a previously colored level 5) to a pale yellow level 8. Then she toned it with Goldwell demi-permanent 8NA which made my hair deep toffee/ caramely and that was fine. However, by the next morning, it had turned orange and has been getting more brassy-orange since. (I didn't wash it/ go swimming/ nothing). Could you help me understand what went wrong? Is it because she did not neutralize the underlying orange pigments? I was thinking that bleaching to a level 8 made my hair a yellow/orange canvas and while the 8NA (blue/violet base) got rid of pale yellow brassy tones, it didn't take care of the orange. In addition, the toner's correcting colors weren't enough because my hair was very dark to begin with (3/5). I am going in for a correction this week but I want to make sure she gets it right this time. What do you think will correct this situation? Toning with 9BB for example? Thanks so much!! I can't wait to not look like an orangutan :/

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  15. Hi,
    from the very beginning that color was doomed.
    I have never heard 1 decent story about Goldwell -
    Also....never have the Stylist who blew it, try to fix-it. If she understood colot at all, you wouldn't be in this position.
    Do not tell a qualified Colorist what to do.
    Now as for what "TO" do?
    Find out who is the "Color Correction specialist" in your town.
    Go to her/him, only!

    GL
    KC

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  16. There is always 1 CC Specialist per town, always...even in tiny towns, u just need to use social media if you can't find out the normal way.
    Don't give up
    KC

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  17. Hi KC, I'm amazed you're still answering questions. I'd really appreciate your help since I can't get an answer to this issue - which I thought was simple enough! - anywhere online.

    I'm a natural neutral/slight ash level 5.
    The bottom, lets say, half of my hair has been lightened (and then darkened) several times. Its base is now a warm/gold/somewhat reddish level 6/7.

    I've added beautifully blended highlights using 30vol and 8N and 9N. I'm happy with the tone of the highlights (on the warm side of neutral) but really want to tone the extra warmth out of my lower lengths.

    Can I use ONE product all over my hair? What happens to my highlights if I attempt to tone the base? How do I select a toner? I'd be most happy if everything was brought to an evenly neutral tone.

    THANK YOU! I can't wait for your advice. I've been stumped on this.

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  18. Brilliant! Love this post. I was wondering if you might suggest how to tone down ruby tones to a warm brown. I have true red/ruby -based extensions that I am wanting to tone to achieve a natural auburn a-la Julianne Moore or Emma Stone. A stylist simply layered copper on top so now it looks a bit radioactive. I would like to keep the copper since that tone is needed for the natural look I want but would like to correct the ruby to a warm or golden brown color that would allow me to mimic a truly natural auburn. Thank you for your help!

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  19. Hi! I have a question. I was attempting to place a rose gold color. I used 5rv and 9cg but after placement it is more purple than anything. Ratio wrong I know my question is. Is there a way to still get the rose gold color by placing more cg over the existing color or do I need to bleach wash and start over?

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi! I have a question. I was attempting to place a rose gold color. I used 5rv and 9cg but after placement it is more purple than anything. Ratio wrong I know my question is. Is there a way to still get the rose gold color by placing more cg over the existing color or do I need to bleach wash and start over?

    ReplyDelete
  21. Unfortunately no....You have Violet in the mix which is a pretty strong pigment in the Hair color world. In my honest opinion I would NEVER-EVER Bleach wash in this situation. That technique is reserved for Level 10-12 blondes and THATS IT! You are going to end up with trashed hair in my humble opinion using that technique.
    What's my Golden Rule?
    Use the Right Tool for the job . . . .then you will have healthy - happy - Shiny hair. Using the wrong "tool" for each job takes you down a road that is very difficult to return from.

    Please, use Vanish for this job and save your hair's health. This is exactly what it is made for.
    Right Tool = Right Job !

    KC

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  22. Hello KC. I literally stumbled onto this page. I have a ginormous dilemma. So I recently died my hair black mixed with some Manic Panic After Midnight to achieve a intense blue black color. I used 2 black box colors and half thw jar of the manic panic with a 20 developer. After I showered I noticed that my hair was just black. Didn't seem to have any blue in it. But i was fine with it. Abut 3 weeks passed by and I see that the black is fading in some areas where I had previously bleached my hair to achieve a bright red. So I decided that I would retouch my hair. I came across this beautiful blue/pewter color that I feel in love with. So I decided to go for it. I bleached my hair with a 30 developer and had to use 1 1/2 packs of powered bleach to lift some of the black out. I ended up with a orangy color with some patches of some other light yellow/orange. So I drenched my hair in coconut oil over night and decided to give another go. The next day I couldn't wait so I bleached it again. Another round of the same. But this time it was a super light yellow, kinda neon on the roots and less orangy on the rest of the hair. So I used my purple shampoo to tone it down a bit. On day 3 I decided to tone my hair with Wella color charm 050 Cooling Violet. I used 2 full bottles of toner mixed with 6 full bottles of 30 developer. I have long hair. Left it in 35 minutes and washed my hair with purple shampoo again. I was really hoping for my hair to come out cooling like a beautiful silvery color. Nope!! He toner did cancel out all the orangy colors but the color I was left with was not what I wantes. My roots look like a green/grey and the rset is a cool blonde (which I don't mind) but now I have no idea what the hell to mix in other to get that beautiful blue/pewter color I was hoping for. I did think that maybe using an enire jar of Manic Panics Blue Steel mixed with half a jar of after midnight would do the trick. But I'm not sure. So before I do it, I need some professional advice. Can you please help?

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  23. Hi! I don't know if you are still answering, but if you are than i would like to know how to color my hair brown with no orange tones,my natural hair color is a dark brown i think at the roots level 3 or 4 and i also have 10% grey. My hairdresser wanted to make it lighter and used a 7.1 but now the roots are orange and the rest is just a level 6 with copper tone. I want to use wella's illumina level 6 mixed with 7.81 using vol 20 will that remove the orange and give me a nice medium brown color + cover the grey hair ? Thank you for your help!

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  24. Anaonymous Jan.8 - You are doing one thing after another that will eventually - permanently damage your hair. You cannot add developer to a semi-permanent color that doesn't work. I'm sorry to say you r hair will begin to have breakage. I'm sorry for bad news. KC

    Anonymous FEBRUARY 3, 2016 - It might. But as I ask everyone, please if you want me to give you specific advice please purchase a Consultation. There are 18 questions that I feel must be answered before I WILL GIVE OUT A FORMULA FOR.Otherwise its just a guess, which is how a lot of Hair Stylists color hair, that is not how I like to color hair. Good Luck KC

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  25. Hi my client is natural level 6 with grey atound the temples & we have been bringing her brighter @ each salon visit for last two visits she is currently level 9 , this time her desired look was 8-1 ash it came out so dark 4 levels darker like 4-1 with grey / blue / purple tones .. How would this happen 20 volume peroxide and processes for 30 min thanks

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  26. Hi client has natural level 6 & grey around the temples and have been bringing her brighter the last two salon visits she is now level 9 ... This time she wanted 8-1 ash but it came out very dark maybe 4 shades darker with purple/blue /grey tones ... How this could happen 20 volume processed for 30 minutes thanks

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    Replies
    1. Marie,
      In many places I tell you the info I need to analyze mistakes, I simply will not be drawn into answering your questions without all the info I need to make a proper answer.
      The thing you don't understand is: Hair color is a scientific theory, it is not "GUESS-WORK". It just isn't.

      So if that happened to her hair....... either you applied something incorrectly,
      or
      she may have done something to her hair and was not honest with you, that happens more often than you would believe. That is why learning all the rules to hair color is mandatory..... then you - yourself can figure out all types of problems that pop up.

      You may have picked up the other Stylists hair color in the color room. Its not a developer problem , its a hair color problem. So, just take a breath and go over every step, ask the client very nicely if there was something she may have applied to her hair...

      If you get in a fix I now have a 911 - Hair Color Line for $29.00 I will help you on the phone but you must call in reasonable hours in L.A. Time)
      GL
      KC

      Delete
  27. Such great advice KC. Being a student this helps since much. Thank you for all you do!!! Angie

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  28. PLEASE HELP!!!
    I bleached my hair a week ago and have deep conditioned. It's soft and shiny and the color of the inside of a banana with some slightly darker(darker shade of inside of banana) tones. Can I use a light natural blonde 9.0 permanent color over it???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, I'm sorry that will not even it out if that is what you are looking for.Purchase the Oil Bleach Kit https://killerstrands.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kits-on-the-scalp-application and use that it will even it out without damage. Its a dream. Just maybe use a shorter processing time( keep an eye on it). That should even it out !
      GL
      KC

      Delete
  29. Ok I am naturally a red head a dark auburn color and I have dyed my hair to black and I was curious how I need to go about getting my hair lightened to red from black. If u could please help me it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You must use 3 different processes. NO ONE should dye their hair black ( unless you plan on keeping it that color for life)- its impossible to come back from.
      Read the following post....put these 3 terms in the SEARCH BAR above on the this Blog:
      - Shampoo Train
      - DDL Malibu treatment packet
      - Hair Color Remover ( VANISH)
      Now read about all 3 processes and you will need at least 3 boxes of VANISH. If you choose not to use this protocol....u will end up with damaged hair. Take it slow and do everything possible.

      GOOD LUCK
      KC

      Delete

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