December 21, 2010

Post-Coloring Conditioning Treatments

With The Demise of IN-DEPTH, Please Welcome IN-TENSIVE
Never thought I would be so sad to see a product go, with yesterdays shipment we sent out the last of the remaining 26 cases of IN-DEPTH I happened to get my hands on. Why companies discontinue ‘good’  - - - no ‘great’ products - - - escapes me, completely. Wella was bought out by Proctor and Gamble approx.18 months ago - - and I suppose that may have a lot to do with it. For whatever reason it just seems to happen way too frequently.000009009y
This one little trick I discovered on my own - - -  right out of Hair Academy - - - was discovered by simply reading and studying about pH and hair coloring. Not one person at Sassoon did this step, no one recommended it, I never saw anyone do it  - - anywhere….not even at all the hair shows I attended and worked at over the years. I just used my common sense when I read about what hair color does to the pH of the hair during all coloring processes.
The abbreviation pH stands for potential hydrogen. This abbreviation is always spelled with a small “p” and a capital “H.” It is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of ‘water-based’ solutions
In scientific terms, what pH would stand for is ability of molecules to attract hydrogen ions. An acidic molecule would have a low ability to attract hydrogen ions, while an alkaline molecule would have a high ability to attract hydrogen ions. The pH of a solution is measured on a scale from zero to 14. On the pH scale, zero would stand for the highest possible acidity reading, 7 is neutral, and 14 is the highest alkalinity reading.
09090909 pH Chart
What pH stands for in the human body is a study of the acid and alkaline within your bodily fluids. The human body strives to maintain a slightly alkaline pH at all times. Various organs inside your body help maintain pH. Once I read how influential pH was - - in general in the human body - - my common sense just rang in my ears : that hair color that changes the pH in everyone’s hair must be attended to – in order to keep the hair healthy. I had no idea it would also affect how long the color remained vivid and the amount of time gray hair would remain covered. ……………………………..But it did!    I think this one, little, seemingly insignificant process, turned out to be in the top 5 of my most effective discoveries. Right up there with the Secret Supplement, THRIVEN, GLEAM & 10,000HEADS.
The pH of different coloring products I discovered ranged from 8 – 9.5, so I discovered using a pH balanced conditioner on the hair after each and every coloring treatment to restore the “NATURAL pH” of 4.5 - 5.5 to the hair - - made me look like the most brilliant Colorist on planet Earth. My clients gray stay covered longer, all colors stay vivid longer ( especially reds – the most difficult), the condition of the hair improved, an absolute miracle worker on blonding ( bleached, high-lift, really > any type).
The benefits of using pH balancer? It closes the cuticle, restores the pH balance to the hair and will help to prevent moisture loss ad color fade. This is a trick that once you try it, you will never consider not doing it.000909l
I laugh now – telling ‘you’ and the world this trick . .  as I used to go to the trouble of “hiding this trick” I mean to the point of putting the product in another products bottle. WHY?
When you are doing hair in LA, and all the high talented individuals are here . . . you must do everything possible to stay on top . . . a little trick like this was one of those trix I never even told my assistants about !
Killer Chemist

2 comments on "Post-Coloring Conditioning Treatments"
  1. I've been reading your blog for a few weeks and I was a member of the google group, but for some reason I'm not now, so I've reapplied...any way YOU ROCK!!! I have a question and I wasn't sure where to post it so I hope this is ok. I'm a victim of the highlight trend and have mostly blonde hair now but I'd like to just do all over color and forget the do you go from highlights to all over blonde? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to learn to do it myself because my stylist was getting too expensive so I went to a friend who was cheaper and now it's all messed up. HELP!! Thanks so much!

  2. really like your blog some great information about hair styling and other hair products


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