Click Here

g2

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

“Highlights Are History” Killer Strands versus Vogue, Literary Infringement or ?

Your Opinion?

1 Crown and glory 208

Crown n Glory209

With my unusual step into the “writing world” via this Blog, I have had more than my share of surprises as to how the weird world of writing works. Over and over I have stated, “I…AM…NOT…A…WRITER”, never had the interest, talent or desire to be one -- never wanted to be accused of being a lousy one. I pride myself in all my endeavors of becoming a master, not too sure where that comes from. Within this new medium (Internet) I knew of no other manner in which to teach the masses, the information I have taught here in the Blog. So, I conformed – gave it my best effort and our 3 year anniversary is 3 weeks from tomorrow, I’m pretty proud of that. 3 years of writing 1-5 posts per week, by a non-writer.hell hair 114

One of my first wake-up calls to the legal side of the whole shebang was when I (1st or 2nd) wrote about the glories of Argan oil, a long time back. Some Academic woman from the Midwest came down on me so hard I still remember not sleeping as a result. Accusing me of “stealing information”, “literary infringement”, improperly quoting it . I think the word bibliography was used….all sorts of ramblings. She acted as if I stole the Mona Lisa pasted it on this Blog and swore on the Bible, I painted it myself. See, I can only quote Artwork  ;-)))) killer5682

I was stunned, to say the least.

What happened was I …yes, I borrowed a couple technical sentences straight out of a NY TIMES piece on the subject and didn’t change them at all. I used the direct sentences from the article, so about 2/3 of the paragraph was word for word from the article. I never said it was my theories, none of that….to this day I still remember feeling very ill that day and just not having the health to write my own sentences that made good sense. I suppose I may have sub-conscientiously knew it was wrong, but I don’t remember.

So I began a little online verbal battle with her via the ‘comment - section’ of the BLOG ( which can no longer be done)…. so everyone could see that I had innocently made a mistake that I didn’t even know existed { remembering all the while, “writing” is not my world}.

While she was firing off all her Academic malarkey to me I was on my end researching every type of copy write and infringement topics I could find, she was right and I was wrong and after the 24 hour battle instead of edit it, ever so carefully,  I deleted the entire article. The only one that lost in that war was YOU the readers, because It was a great article about how I feel about (natural earth grown)oils and how I feel that everyone is really missing out by not having them in diet and life. ( I’m presently working on a new version as I feel very strongly about the positive effects of oils/lipids for the human body)

Her little snide comments, then my little snide comments. . . it was silly of me…BUT, I learned my lesson and I never did it again. If she had done it offline and personally, she would have accomplished a much better outcome – I would have listened/learned and most likely we would still be speaking today.  She claimed to be an “educator” and I felt a pang of sorrow for her students.

About a week ago I received an email from one of my trusty readers that said this:

“See article of the same title, "Highlights are History," in the April 2010 issue of Vogue.

Ah, to be one step ahead of the masses...”

I wasn’t quite sure what she meant, so I Googled VOGUE, Googled the sentence - nothing about Vogue and the sentence came up. The only thing that came up was all my articles and posts on the subject of highlights are history – my writings on both Blogs on my PLOGS --  I named the one  – because it is exclusively photos – no words ;-))))

If I was doing such a bad thing. . . Why is VOGUE not doing a very bad thing ?? They have FACT checkers, they know what the rules and regs are, they most likely invented many of them.

Page 175 of the APRIL ISSUE of VOGUE magazine is TITLED:

HIGHLIGHTS  ARE  HISTORY

now According to the U.S. Copyright Office, "Your work is under copyright protection the moment it is created and fixed in a tangible form that it is perceptible either directly or with the aid of a machine or device”.

Well, a computer fits that bill, and if you look over to the right and down in the side bar… you will see this

image go down to “H”, then to

HIGHLIGHTS ARE HISTORY

I have (at least 7) posts on this subject AND HAVE even LOGO-ED THE TOPIC,

TRYING MY HARDEST TO GET OTHERS TO THINK ABOUT BANISHING THE TECHNIQUE

So, why does a big publication like VOGUE get to steal from the “little guy” ? and its OK ?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

You know what's even more odd ?  About 10 months ago, Killer Strands received an email from an anonymous reader, with the enquiry  “would like to talk about your work” with the responsible party and her email being her:

“ name “ @ conde naste.com

CondeNaste owns Vogue.

How do I know that? My daughter is an accomplished fashion photographer, studied under the late great IRVING PENN for 2 years in New York. Her checks and her insurance were paid through CONDE NASTE, as Mr. Penn was employed by VOGUE/CONDE NASTE  right up to nearly his death at 92, last year.

I emailed that address daily for a couple weeks with no response.

Forgot about it. Until Now.

I don’t know what the “lead-time” is for magazines. . .but the whole thing is a little too “co-inky-dink” for mOne remembers an email like that, I don’t  remember much . . . but I distinctly remember that because I really hoped it would bring more notice to Killer Strands (my main goal).  If I am to get the word out about how to achieve - and keep > STRONG – HEALTHY - SHINY Hair….then I am going to need more help. Like notices by magazines such as VOGUE. (Although theft was not really what I had in mind).

I want to hear what you think about this…. and for a couple days I am going to (attempt) to open the comments up for direct posting to the BLOG (normally I must weed though the SPAM in them ) 

These are the 2 pages from VOGUE….

Crown n Glory209Crown n Glory210 

Vogue   Magazine                          

Sarah Brown : Beauty Director

email :

TalkingBack@Vogue.com

Letters :  VOGUE MAGAZINE     4 Times Square    NewYork  New  York,  10036

 

Killer  Chemist

Thursday, March 18, 2010

What is the Difference In Professional Hair Color & Hair Color @ 15,000 Sally’s or Local Beauty Supply’s?

 

NOTHING

the Quality of the    

Color

& Developer

and that’s it

there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have

None - Zip - Zero

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of using a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more even color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world use this method for that reason.

Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. Usually that reason is -  “THEY WORK BETTER”

Just a heads up to many of you who love the Wella Koleston Perfect line of hair color, we have been missing 4 complete pages off the new chart of colors

I can’t believe it, but it now explains a huge question I had wondering why no one was ordering these particular tones. What a dingbat I am, and this won’t be the last time.

The BRV Series  which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.

Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.     

I would use:  1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run) 

+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =

most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer8 to know that)

 Wella KP 2010 chart166

Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED, I would choose a Base of

6BRV- 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years) and then add to that

+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of  6/45 – 6RRV.

Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends.

Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.

The next page forgotten was a page I really hesitate putting on, as I swear to you in 10 years I never used a one. Its the “G” page = GOLD. If clients wanted some “gold” in their hair color I would use a “N” series color. 

Wella KP 2010 chart164

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from this page of the chart. That would be disastrous , I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series  ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the  /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.

Wella KP 2010 chart163

This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B

= makes 8NB.

Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.

Another great brown?

7N  + 7A + 7 M + 7B  = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN  . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches.

At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless.  The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color. 

I feel,  that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color  > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I  learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over -  I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.

And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:

Wella KP 2010 chart165

I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:

  • R -- Red
  • GR – Gold/Red
  • RG -- Red/Gold

Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.

Any questions head to the group

KillerStrands GOOGLE Group

Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE  REDVOLUTION”:  meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same

But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.

If you have questions about your hair color formula, for 2 weeks now I have been having many customers , purchase the quantity of tubes of color they would like to use ( plus IN-DEPTH & Gleam) – then, at checkout ( in box at top where you can add comments or questions) : leaving the colors blank and answering the basic KILLER 8 questions so I will make the decision of your formula for you.  Its been working out well, so if you have been hesitant with your first Crib Colorist adventure, right now is the time to do it as you get my personal evaluation. You must be 100% honest about your hair answers, or the answer won’t be as perfect for you. I don’t have time any longer for the back and forth emails – which is why I had to take the consultations down.

So give that a try if you feel like becoming a crib colorist.

Killer Chemist

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?