the Quality of the
and that’s it
there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have
None - Zip - Zero
Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of using a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more even color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world use this method for that reason.
Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. Usually that reason is - “THEY WORK BETTER”
Just a heads up to many of you who love the Wella Koleston Perfect line of hair color, we have been missing 4 complete pages off the new chart of colors
I can’t believe it, but it now explains a huge question I had wondering why no one was ordering these particular tones. What a dingbat I am, and this won’t be the last time.
The BRV Series which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.
Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.
I would use: 1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run)
+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =
most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer8 to know that)
Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED, I would choose a Base of
6BRV- 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years) and then add to that
+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of 6/45 – 6RRV.
Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends.
Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.
The next page forgotten was a page I really hesitate putting on, as I swear to you in 10 years I never used a one. Its the “G” page = GOLD. If clients wanted some “gold” in their hair color I would use a “N” series color.
I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from this page of the chart. That would be disastrous , I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.
This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B
= makes 8NB.
Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.
Another great brown?
7N + 7A + 7 M + 7B = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches.
At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless. The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color.
I feel, that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over - I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.
And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:
I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:
- R -- Red
- GR – Gold/Red
- RG -- Red/Gold
Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.
Any questions head to the group
Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE REDVOLUTION”: meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same
But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.
If you have questions about your hair color formula, for 2 weeks now I have been having many customers , purchase the quantity of tubes of color they would like to use ( plus IN-DEPTH & Gleam) – then, at checkout ( in box at top where you can add comments or questions) : leaving the colors blank and answering the basic KILLER 8 questions so I will make the decision of your formula for you. Its been working out well, so if you have been hesitant with your first Crib Colorist adventure, right now is the time to do it as you get my personal evaluation. You must be 100% honest about your hair answers, or the answer won’t be as perfect for you. I don’t have time any longer for the back and forth emails – which is why I had to take the consultations down.
So give that a try if you feel like becoming a crib colorist.