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Monday, March 8, 2010

Hair We Go Again - Female Pattern Hair Loss: 1 in 3 Women Suffer From Beginning @ Age 17

10,000 Heads Step 1 – Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo Exclusively

72301786  "I'm not only the president of the company, I'm also a client"

Wasn't that Bosley's commercial years back??...or something to that effect ? 

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Well, as lame brain as that line is, you can't fight the fact that BOSLEY is the first company to treat hair loss and like Wella when you have been in the business for over 50 years, you are bound to be great at it.

These people have done their homework...these shampoos  have great ingredients and are reasonably priced.  Which is why I have chosen to carry this line of hair loss/ thinning Shampoos. I still believe that the conditioners that come with this shampoo (or any shampoo for that matter) are like pouring a bottle of body lotion on your hair - right after you have washed it. sb10069813a-001  I mean..??? Why do that? the formula for a hair conditioner is the EXACT same formula as a body lotion or body cream (in the cosmetic chemistry world the same 2 products are called an Emulsion - an emulsion is the mixture of oil & water – or butters & water....... I promise you)    The day I realized that, I tell you I almost cried. I could not believe it, I still can’t believe it. What a major ‘dupe by a whole lot of large manufacturers on us the unsuspecting public – and even unsuspecting hair stylists. I never knew that – my mentor doesn’t know it  even Annie Humphries (QUEEN OF COLOR) doesn’t know it.

And Why?

The 2 worlds never collide really.

As a hair stylist you concerned mainly about how the clients hair looks on the “outside”. In school that is all you learn. How to change color, blow dry, cut, style . . . all the “outside” traits. No one ever taught us how a shampoo is made, how a conditioner is ‘made’….how a styling product is ‘made’. Which is why when I see one more hair stylist hawk their new line of hair care products, I get furious. . . I KNOW THEY DON’T HAVE A CLUE HOW THEY ARE MADE – or WHAT TO DO TO MAKE THEM A GOOD PRODUCT.  That is the Cosmetic Chemists job.

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So then you go to the cosmetic chemist, who sits in a lab of a large corporation and comes up with formula’s for shampoo’s, conditioners, all day long. They never see people. They never touch hair. They have absolutely NO IDEA how to blow dry hair, they don’t know volume from ‘flat’ because they have never styled hair, cut hair, or even yet . . . never have colored one head of hair. They do not TOUCH HAIR, how in the world can you expect them to make a good shampoo if they have no idea how hair itself works? ? ?  Which is why we have sooooo many lousy products out there. Those 2 worlds are completely different and they both aren’t too fond of the other.

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The Chemists think the Hair Stylists are dumb beauty school dropout types………..and the Hair Stylists think the Chemists are just a bunch of lab rat geeks without a clue as to the beauty and art of hair. Both have valid points… BUT, what about a decent shampoo? How in the Hell is that achieved?

I’m hoping that now with  new technology and applications like the one you are reading right at this very minute… {Killerstrands Blog } it will open their eyes and they begin listening to the people  - - - “ YOU ”  ! If you all support my Blog and my Store, that shows the big corporate yahoo’s that you are not going to just buy the crap they throw in front of your nose…not anymore. You want good ingredients that cater to keeping our hair on our heads -- not just cheap ones so they rake in astronomical profits. Because that is what is happening now. Sulfate’s probably cost these large manufacturers pennies and I’m talking 2 or 3 pennies not even 9 or 10…then 60-70% of a shampoo’s formula is water . . so I’m sure you can see my point.  These shampoo’s I carry have used better ingredients – MUCH BETTER ingredients, so that their profits aren’t nearly as big I promise you. Which of course is not the point to any of us. The point is you should pay for what you get, and they should stop reaping such large profits off of junk products. Because of our uneducated state – we never knew – independently we all thought, “it was just us”. I’m here to tell you  its not us……………..its THEM!

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What happened here at Killer Strands and why this world has been opened up to you “the public”  - - is because I “was” a Hair stylist – trained by the best in the world at the best School in the world. Who became ill, and could no longer go back to standing in a Salon for hours on my bad leg. So instead of just giving up I decided to begin studying Cosmetic Chemistry – so I, a hair stylist – totally 100% innocently cracked into the world of the cosmetic chemist and now understand how to make these treasured products. I’ve made my own entire line … just never had the $$ to begin from the ground up on production. So I’ve given it a go one product at a time.

But, the magic I see here is that I wonder if there is any other person – skilled in both arts. Cosmetic Chemistry & Hair Styling – that is who these big companies need to hire and/or produce. So they have people that understand BOTH mediums. But for now………..you have me. I hope my information and my message is understood.

I believe in using a Sulfate-free shampoo with wonderful ingredients & SOMA Protein Leave-in Spray (de-tangles & smooths ) and this line of Bosley shampoos fits the bill nicely. I honestly love every ingredient in this line of shampoos after reviewing the ingredients the shampoos for non-color treated shampoo are actually great for color-treated, I don't see one objectionable ingredient in any of the shampoos...not one! So I would not worry about any of them for anyone’s hair.

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Many people are under the misconception the only thing the Trinity, called Killer Strands, cares about is 'hair color'...when nothing could be further from the truth.
*The number 1 subject on which all else is based in all of my posts is achieving HEALTHY HAIR - first and foremost*

Improperly applied hair color is the number 1 reason for unhealthy hair, unfortunately. So that is why the subject comes up as much as it does, besides all the new and current Crib Colorists that have spawned up across the country due to Killer Strands teachings.

Now this Bosley line is of course Sulfate-free but it uses the surfactants that I have found the most success with, its a more expensive ingredient…which is the only reason I can assume not very many companies use it. It also contains many herbal extracts that I like for a healthy scalp which encourages a longer hair cycle, a healthier hair cycle - Sage extract & Pentapeptides, Rice Amino Acids, Panthenol, Kelp Extract and Vegetable Protein.
Hair can never have too much protein. Ever.

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Here's what the company says about its product:

Bosley Defense Nourishing Shampoo for Normal to Fine / Non Color-Treated Hair is a Gentle, sulfate free cleanser that helps to create a healthy environment for hair and scalp. Cleanses and removes toxins such as DHT from the hair and scalp skin, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss.

Use: Apply to wet hair, massage gently, *leave two minutes* and rinse.

*LifeXtend Complex:*
* Hydrates and nourishes while strengthening and fortifying the follicles and hair shaft for thicker, fuller looking hair
* Inhibits toxins such as DHT, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss
* Sulfate free, Gentle safer cleansing without potentially harmful ingredients
* Sage Leaf Extract helps stimulate healthy hair growth

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Eventually we will have all 6 shampoos but are starting with 4 to see how well they do. But, you know hair thinning and loss should be treated the exact same way cancer is.. PREVENTION WORKS THE BEST>. In other words, if you have any signs at all, I would print out that 10,000HEADS List and get cracking on it. The first step that needs to be changed is Step number 1 – NO SULFATES in your shampoo, and here is the perfect shampoo. If you have any inclination at all that your hair is thinning the idea is to prevent that from advancing any further by running the 14 steps as close to as you possibly can.

Which does not mean trying to do all 14 steps at once. Remember, no fanatics here. Take on 1 step at a time or 2 max. Work them into your way of life, slowly and with purpose.

I have thousands of successes, why don’t you try to be the next one ?

Killer Chemist

Thursday, March 4, 2010

High Lift Blond, Achieving Lightest Blond – Zero Bleach

Battle of High Lift Blond Brands

Killer2435 I believe the last big new technology we’ve had in hair color was the product MAGMA, which is a one-step bleach and tone. Before that the next newest technology was the introduction of the high-lift blonde. Whoever coined the term “high-lift blonde” – should win an award… its brilliant. I mean if you are going to either go to a Salon and ask for a “blond” or chose one to do to yourself, wouldn’t the “high-lift blond” be the one you wanted to use? As opposed to just the “blond”? I certainly would . . . I mean to use a “high-lift blond” as opposed to a “bleach”….well of course you are going to choose the “high-lift'’ I mean – who wouldn’t? Just trying to make you all well aware of the “WORDING” used in this world of hair color and how misguiding it can be and to watch out for it. There are so many other factors to consider before choosing a process just for the “name”….PLEASE PLEASE do your homework, before asking from a Colorist, or performing on yourself. The technique called, “Bleach & Tone” versus the technique “High-lift Blond” are the 2 most popular blonding techniques and each of them are wonderful applications. Just depends the hair you are performing them on and the result you are seeking.
Many of you probably think blond is blond. Well, as in any art - - - there are hundreds of degrees of blonding…. from the darkest
level 7 Blond badasshair417
to a
Level 8 Blond
hellforhair018to a
Level 9 Blond
Killer Re-crop1 to a
Level 10 Blond
Killer2576
to a
Level 11 Blond
hair pro set058 or to the famous Marilyn Monroe
Level 12 Platinum Blond
gwen94
Look at the range in just those 5 levels of blondes. They are completely different. Its always been my feeling that the Level System is just way TO SMALL. I mean for 50 years it was level 1 through 10, then about 18 years ago they added level 11 & 12 when the HIGHLIFT Tints were introduced to the world of Hair Color. To me I see such a vast amount difference from one level to another that I feel, at the bare minimum - - - the System should have 20 Levels not 12…or 24 would be even better. That way there wouldn’t be such a radical difference between 2 levels. I mean Level 1-2-3 are so close you need a magnifying glass and a headlight to distinguish them all from each other, they are so damn dark. But between level 6 and 7 it is a huge difference…..as well as between Level 7 and 8. When people ask me for a level estimation I almost always use 2 numbers to distinguish which end of the Level I am talking( or thinking) about. I will say “ oh you are a 7-8 if its on the lighter end of a Level 7 or a 6-7 if its on the darker end of a 7 ! Which is why I feel we need a 20 Level System as opposed to a 12 level system.
Killer2813
Now with the recent experience with Renbow, I went on a mission to try to test all the high-lift blonds on the market. We used to do this annually ( every january) within the Salon, when I had multiple assistants…all my assistants were always students from Sassoon so they were schooled in the same strict standards I was . . . as goofy as some may think it to be . . . I saw many talented individuals come out of that school. This time I have been doing it, which is good for me to actually see for myself & that way I can write from first hand experience as well.IMG_1277 I have been experimenting with processing times, on 2 different levels of virgin hair…. level 5-6 and on Level 7-8 with various brands of high-lifts . . going off of what other Colorists I know use and like. You know something else I discovered? There are a few lines that hav . So that is a definite winner and being added to the Store and my list of “loves” ! I am actually very excited about the entire move and change…..as I found at least 6 new high-lifts that I am proud to introduce to you and that I will be using myself…. I always restricted myself to using 100A exclusively…which was a pain in the ass, because “getting” it was a frickin’ nightmare….NOW I have so many options….something a busy colorist needs.. The high-lift blond kit is the number 1 selling hair color BY FAR on Killer Strands - - - of all the colors we carry, so that is why I have done this . . . I know this bores the brunettes . . . but have a heart for your fellow platinum-haired vixens! Apparently we have a lot of blonds out there, and I just thought it was here in California that people liked to adorn those golden locks . . . but I guess not.
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Now with every single one of my strand tests I processed them for a minimum of 75-90 minutes, and I use a plastic cap over them to keep warmth “in” as I do on my clients. I know my Stylists who use hair dryers but that is where the hair receives its most damage… if you use the body’s own warmth and perform the process in a warm room - - the health of the hair stays INTACT.IMG_1278
The other 2 brands so far that I want to recommend are Schwarzkopf who’s 12.0 N which is a neutral . . and its /1 series is Lavender based Ash I was just thrilled to find out as well. Now Schwarzkopf was a brand we used way back at Sassoon but it was bought out by an American company so I lost interest in it - - quite a while ago. But, remembering back, yes, we all liked the high-lifts made by them a way back when……….. Something interesting to you . . . Schwarzkopf is the company that developed VANISH, a long long LOOOOOOOONG time ago when it was called MODULAT. So I was glued to this company via Modulat for years.. Then the owner sold Modulat off - the patent and the whole shebang for millions… But anyway…. what I have discovered is Schwatrzkopf’s 12.1 ASH is the single best HIGH-Lift on its own. No booster. So the replacement for Renbow’s 100A {our number 1 selling color ( by a LOT= btw) } is Schwarzkopf's 12.1. Now they also make a booster . . . which they call a Blonding “Extract” . . . which can be added. I haven’t even tried it yet, as I didn’t see a need to the 12.1 A …..maybe a tad with 12.0 N…and the 12.4 B (Beige) . . . they were all gorgeous without a booster. But for those of you with a need for more lift, I will definitely carry the Blonding EXTRACT – Schwatrzkopf.
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Then the 3rd high lift that was yummy was MATRIX’s ( which surprised me) but then I remembered that all the girls that worked in the old Salon with me used this one particular High-lift


by Matrix called UL-PA . Ultra Lift Pearl Ash. . . . and it was sold out at both of the supply houses I tried to get it at. . . which now shows me that an awful lot of Colorists must use it. I did not notice a booster with Matrix, but again - - the color was so perfect I couldn’t think of why I would need one. . . . but will carry that as well. So watch for that in the near future. I truly cannot see why any of the boosters can’t be interchanged with any brand. I have not tested that theory, but will. . . .coming up. You know science formulas' and theories that are used with “hair color are plain and simple and just not that complicated so there is pretty much no reason it shouldn’t work. IMG_1292         
In addition to high-lifts and lighteners, with losing the Renbow toners ( which I have never found anything even remotely close) I plan to put together a base line of opaque toners course and then demonstrate to you how to change the colors of the toners in order to reach soft pastels. It really is not that hard. Just comes with experience….which luckily YOU don’t need. . . because I have it - - - for you!
Matrix brought back its line of 4 opaque toners for blond’s I used to use and love so that is a great start.. I will also demonstrate the fairly simple technique of making an apricot-rose toner ‘from’ these toners as a base provided there is some interest for them. Soft Silver, Soft Raspberry, Ice Blue – All coming up in the future days and weeks of the NEW HIGHLIFT series.
NEW ADDITION TO THIS POST :
Please check out the store, I have completed all the lines of testing highlifts from some 20 lines of hair color.
The absolute 1st and best blonds without the use of bleach goes to the company FRAMESI, they actually blew both Schwartzkopf and the rest of them out of the water....just read the post on the page
Killer Chemist

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?