May 15, 2017

Blonds with Benefits:

Want to go from Dark Brown Hair to a Lighter Color? Here’s 1 way and there are a couple! 

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Below was a question posted in a magazine, that ruffled my tint brush - - so I decided to make a post out of it! Many Group members still are confused on this brown to blond application, so I will be bringing it up from time to time as I have in the past . . hoping one of my many explanations - - sinks in. This is also a situation that many would head to a hair stylist for, which as the article shows……… hair stylists can make mistakes ( big ones) all the time – just like the public. The only thing I can do is present the various techniques and let you decide. My suggestions are almost always not the norm you will hear or see. So please consider them first I always choose the procedure that will be the most gentle on the hair FIRST….. ALWAYS - - - - - ALWAYS ! . . .      image0 
Whatever you do from now on . . . do not just let a Hair Stylist do whatever she wants, always ask her the plan of attack. Become an active member in the decisions of your hair color procedures, either by researching or reading. Even when I was in the top Salon in Malibu, CA. for years, I would see Stylists all around me doing the technique as described in the above add.. 
It is not proper etiquette to ‘teach” or even to make suggestions in the Salon . Which is why… in every single Salon you will ever go to there will be one or two Stylists that are just so much better than the rest. Before I got into this crazy business, I used to wonder ‘why’ if they had a couple great Colorists or Cutters….why didn’t the rest of the Stylists catch up or learn from the 1 or 2 that were so ahead of the game ??  Well, that is just not how it works in Hair Salon etiquette.   
Many just don’t understand the fact that bleach (lightener) really was not made to remove old hair color. It was formulated to lighten the hair strands themselves. In the most rare of conditions or when the area you want to lighten is very small like ‘the fringe’  then yes I would agree with a (very) small application of it but not like this particular question where she and many of you want to go all-over lighter.

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I want to dispel the answer given here and the idea laid out to you by some hair Stylists that they just do not have your hair’s best interest in mind. If you are a hair stylist I can promise you if you put your clients hair’s health as your number 1 concern and teach them tricks to help them keep it that way in between appointments with you…. you will have a client for life. Or if you are a Crib Colorist this will get you thinking of the proper direction you should head to lighten your hair and keep the healthy shiny hair everyone should have. There are many posts in the history of this BLOG for any additional information you may need as well. This is a little different than most hair blogs, as “education” is our main goal here. Many times I wish I just had a very light and easy blog . . . where I threw a photo up of a cool hair style and wrote a paragraph and was done. But no one was teaching hair correctly and I wanted to “gift” the women (and men) of America with the knowledge I have. 

If you have a subject you want to hear about please email me at with the SUBJECT: Hair Education Topic Idea for KC…I will have my crew forward them to me and i will write about it . . . . be sure to be clear on what you have questions about so I can continue to help! ! !

Hair Coloring is an Art of Chemistry if you were to analyze how to be a great Colorist- - - learning specific basics of chemistry just truly do help. Whomever wrote this answer, did not fully understand the chemistry of Hair Color - - or could be so overly anxious in trying to acquire customers they neglected the choice that would be the healthiest for the clients hair. I want to educate those of you who want the choice that: a) leaves the hair the healthiest or b) those that want to be able to tell their Stylists exactly what you want done

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“Tint” being the perfect and most appropriate term for the actual cream that comes out of the tube that you mix with Developer to produce the haircolor tint you apply to the head.. I try to teach as if you were in a strange form of a Cosmetology Class.

Now back to why you can’t apply new hair color on top of old hair color to lighten it. . . .the answer ? ? Because Tint is just not made to “lighten” previously applied tint

or Hair color just cannot lighten old hair color

….the technology is just not there yet. Maybe someday.................
 although they have been working on it for 40 years….so, don’t hold your breath. Once there is tint on the hair, hair-color cannot be used to lighten the hair.

Once virgin (non-colored) hair has been darkened (or lightened) by any hair color at all, it is NO LONGER considered virgin hair . It has now moved into the next category referred to as “colored” or “tinted” hair. Therefore the girl in the ad had tinted hair darker brown and then wanted to go lighter…. with that being the case yes, you can use bleach but doing it that way is more damaging to the hair.
The bleach doesn’t remove the dark brown color it burns through it.
Following the process of burning through the darker layers of hair color the bleach finally reaches the hair strand itself and then lightens what was intended to be lightened - - the hair itself. Only when there is no other option would I use bleach to lighten ‘black’, ‘dark brown’ ‘brown’ or any darker tinted hair.
A frequent mistake made by many home (crib) colorists AND Hair Stylists is each and every time they re-touch their hair ( touch up the roots) they apply the tint to not only the new growth but also the entire head of hair & process both for the entire 60 – 75 minutes.… huge HUGE mistake. Tint on top of Tint on top of Tint makes for dull – knotty – yucky –  melding into a black mess of hair. If the “ends or the “lengths” of the haircolor need refreshing… there is another way to accomplish this… so the entire head of hair remains shiny and healthy looking.
The proper way for her to go lighter with that description is to Vanish the color out of the hair. Vanish is a hair color remover, that works without bleach – without peroxide – without any damaging  ingredients….it simply reverses the way the color came into the hair molecularly… reversing the the molecular process.   here is a link :  .
Once Vanish has been applied from 1-6 applications which all depends on the color you want to be. You may recolor in many different manners….you can go lightest brown with blond slices a la Jen Anniston….or whatever your heart desires. Using Vanish keeps image1the bonds of the hair strong. With the hair strong and light with the darker Tint gone, you have a healthy base to re-color a lighter color even if you only want a lighter overall color you will be abel . . . method keeps the hair strong – healthy – & shiny.

The Level bobble heads990
The 12 Levels of the LEVEL  SYSTEM 
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