December 29, 2014

When Coloring Hair -- Remember a Few Important Factors

If you are coloring your hair at home and striving to be a Great Crib Colorist, here are a few little tricks I use when trying to create "natural looking hair" when, in fact, it is not.

Say you are my favorite color of hair... a Level 6B.... or the color of Allison Williams hair:

Yes of course the first order of business is to touch up the base every 6-7 weeks, and if you have the proper formula you will be able to go that long. There is something we used to call 'creeping down the strand', which refers to the color you have applied...and that it will creep down the strand as it grows. There are certain brands of hair color that when formulated correctly - will actually creep down the strand as the hair grows out ( a little bit) and those are 'some of ' the brands I carry. Most specifically Wella. I don't know why and cannot explain 'why' - but they definitely DO, when the formula is perfect. I used to think that if the formula was perfect it blended with the virgin color and slid down the hair strand , but once I began my world into studying hair chemistry, I saw that was scientifically... not possible. But I am sure there are some of you that notice this phenomenon ! 
  The Second trick is to purchase a Ribbons of Light Kit ...........

 The first time you should do a few foils on the ENDS of the hair. On a child's hair ( which I always use for my model) the ends are always lighter than the base of the hair. You can either NOT pull it through, OR, put a few foils sporadically on the ends of the hair. NOT, on every single piece, but on random pieces , so it looks natural. Study some photos first of all if you aren't sure.

The 3rd trick which is something I always do to my own hair. I take the top 1/4 of my head and I use the color 8/43 which is a Level 8 copper and on the rest of my head I use 7/43. If you notice on every child's head...... the top layer of their hair is a Level or 2, lighter than underneath. Its that way if you live in the sun or not... I have I guess that is how GOD wanted everyone's hair to come out of the womb.

The 4th trick which is probably something some of you do, but I will tell you any way. You would purchase the Pip-Squeak Ribbons of Light Kit and place a couple of foils around the face. I suggest just little slivers of hair with cream lightener or powder ( depends on your hair color)...and only process for 5-10 can always add some more for longer. Remember in Hair color: Less is More !

The darker hair should always be the dominant color in order for the look to be natural.

5 comments on "When Coloring Hair -- Remember a Few Important Factors"
  1. I got the email on OLAPLEX and read what they have on their website. Saw a post on their facebook page about OLAPLEX treatment on a 10 year old virgin hair no coloring- really made her hair nice and smooth and shiny. Was wondering if yu have experience using it on virgin hair - especially virgin white hair. Maybe this is what I have been looking for?

    thank you for your patience!

  2. no experience on virgin white hair, that is a very rare head of hair.
    BUT, the chemistry of this, shows me that it will and should work on any type of hair, I definitely think you should try it. It works on every single oddball situation there is. Check out some of the new photos I put up! Good luck!

  3. Spare you saying you like Wella or not anymore?

  4. Love Wella,
    always have - always will.
    Although I am not a fan of their high-lift Blonde's...........but
    I haven't found a company (yet) that I am pleased with
    I know it can be done because a color called RENBOW, used to have the most exquisite high-lift Blonde's ! That company and those formula's died when the man that created them died.
    A lot of hair company executives read this I challenge you to now :
    create a high-lift blonde - that truly does lift high enough !


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