September 28, 2011

Hair Color Basics From The Boss

Messages from Members Motivate Me : Time To Review Hair Color Basics
In speaking with many of you lately, and just this morning someone in the group, made me feel some Posts on the BASIC OF HAIR COLOR were due. Everything has been written about on this Blog in years past but, like you, I get tired of looking back & through years of Posts on Blogs I read – so I get it.
First I want to talk to you about the different categories of Hair Color. I am going to put in my 2 cents to the very boring and bland manner in which this topic is normally discussed, so hang on to your hat!
The lines between the categories of color used to be sharp now they are not only foggy, they don’t really mean much to well-trained Colorists. We can almost always find a way around the way the color is supposed to be used. I feel it takes  more than 1 term to describe the hair color products of today.IMG_1080
For decades the 4 basic categories were:
  • Temporary (the oldest) - shampoos out, here today/gone tomorrow. Rinses, Roux, Root Touch-up mascaras/wands, color shampoo, etc,
  • Semi-Permanent- lasts haircut to haircut (meaning 4 weeks). A diminishing category sadly. I feel there is a lot of room for expansion here, provided category is used properly NO DEVELOPER. Large color manufacturers have mislead public putting: ”Semi-Permanent” on boxes of hair color that included developer : which is completely WRONG and misleading. The minute Developer is used, it changes the manner in which hair color works, it then imparts that line of demarcation something not achieved when using a ‘true’ Semi Permanent Haircolor. This category is wonderful for refreshing color it emparts more shine than any other category, but sadly the large manufacturers feel we don’t need this – when WE DO!
  • Demi-Permanent (the newest) – 1/2 way between Semi & Permanent is what they aim for Demi to be.  Various companies define it differently, Deposit-only, very Gentle on strands, for the Killerstrands gang : the perfect hair color application is to apply Permanent haircolor on the roots/new growth…Demi-Permanent on the lengths. Demi imparts VIVID color results, a knock-out for shine, covers mild gray (under 25%), refreshes Permanent color,deposits Tonal changes, corrective coloring and reverse-highlighting.
  • Permanent – Oxidized haircolor. This is the Grandaddy category for some reason. You have the choice of 10 Volume thru 40 Volume developer and everything in between. Developer (hydrogen peroxide) is mixed w/ haircolor and remains in strands till new growth of hair. Used for covering gray (#1),lightening, matching previous hair color. The 1 & only color that performs the complete magical act of Lifting color and Depositing color at the same time. Think about that! All companies ‘claim’ this category of their hair color is permanent. When in fact it is not. All HAIR COLOR FADES except Bleach / Lightener / Oil Lightener. Please read on for those of you weary of this category…I have a surprize for you….
Lets look at the definition of “Permanent”:  existing perpetually; everlasting, especially without significant change, long-lasting or non-fading(!)
Had a good laugh?  I’ve applied Permanent haircolor on over 10,000 Heads, not 1 of them had the same haircolor 5-8 weeks later & these are folks that all used Sulfate-free shampoos and the finest hair products in the land (my Salon was in Malibu) and followed 10,000 HEADS really really well..
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Many of you are freaked out by the sound “Permanent Color”, I really would like everyone to get over that. If you don’t believe me, ask your relatives-friends-moms-daughters-boyfriends….there experience with “permanent haircolor”. Remember I am talking properly applied professional haircolor in colors lighter than Level 2. The only color you don’t want to be permanent is the only one that is…Level 1 black.  It takes at least 4 boxes of VANISH to fade Black….no one wants to have black hair for very long. Its harsh & not flattering on anyone’s complexion.
Every single haircolor fades......permanent, semi-permanent, temporary and
anything else anyone has made up.
Its the nature of the beast. If you have ever had permanent hair color – I already know where it comes from. Applying boxed hair color on top of itself about 20 times – then its permanent. It also looks like dull-dry-ugly SHOE POLISH with that method.  I am glad there is no “technically-permanent” haircolor, the only people who wish there was are clients with lots of Gray although there is a problem with that idea. The new gray roots will always be there, we cannot do anything about your new growth and you wouldn’t want us to.
Embrace permanent color, because - - - as long as you are using any hair color with a developer @ any Volume level you deal with the same issues and I promise there is across the board flexibility (same with every single haircolor brand). 
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           Scientists are funny. They sit in their labs at these Color
Giants.....and they develop hair they figure out 1 hair
color and if it goes through a couple washes it is almost the exact
same color. Think about this........they are MEN. Now did everyone
Have you ever asked your "man"  - -  if he loves your new hair
color??? 9 out of 10 don't know if you went form blonde to black.
When women would be in my chair and they would be nervous about their man’s approval in changing haircolors that "they" wanted and I agreed would look
I would ALWAYS tell them, "he will never even notice"......not
once in 15 years did I have someone come back and tell me their man
was mad.......
they really don't care what color our hair is.
So that is why I really don't think much of the "MEN" who sit in these
They are still men
Wella Koleston Perfect 4444As long as I have been doing hair I have never run into one haircolor
that truly was permanent, as I said…I think they are ALL misnamed and the Permanent should be Demi and so on
down the line....
Bleach/Oil-Bleach Lightener  is truly the one & only color process
that is permanent.

Yes they look good for 1-2-3 weeks but after that well it goes out the
window....I still feel FUDGE COLOR'S are OVER AND ABOVE the best Krazy
Kolors on the market.....MANIC PANIC & the 3 brands you speak of ARE
SOLD IN THE MALL....anyone and their mother can buy them..Haircolor
has different levels of quality...
which is why you can buy haircolor in Sallys and you might as well
pour that out the window as you drive home.
Again haircolor is made by men....and I don't want anyone to get me
wrong, I love MEN, they are my favorite hobby...
Men should NOT be making haircolor for all of these companies.
To make haircolor you must be a Cosmetic Chemist...........that
society has about 98% MEN. Now you know why haircolor is not “more permanent than it is, why there aren’t more colors to choose from.  All in a nutshell.
So, you young women out you know what occupation needs
help...  take it from me, it is a blast as well. We need women in the industry in all facets. One needs a degree in Science, then a Degree in Cosmetic Chemistry.
I’ll be waiting for you….
KC  Killer Chemist
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