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Saturday, July 3, 2010

10,000 HEADS : 14-Step Regimen for Strong, Shiny Hair

The Single Most Important Step – NUTRITION

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The food you eat and what goes in your body is simply the most important factor in changing the health and thickness of your hair. It is important to understand 10,000 HEADS works its wonders synergistically, practicing all the steps in unison, will give you optimum results, I have had some absolutely amazing stories come back to me. I am finding that people in other areas than LA, don’t think the importance of Nutrition is high enough. I cannot stress it enough; Nutrition; step1 will always be the most important step and is the backbone of the program.

Crown n Glory250This is also the single most difficult step to get women to follow through on. When changing food intake, it can take weeks or months for results to be apparent, many give up too early, feeling as though the change didn’t help. Hang in there, the change will come I have seen it over and over. As a scientist, as a Cosmetologist and as a Cosmetic Chemist, I survey thousands of heads of hair, paying attention to patterns and forming hypothesis on ‘why’ a particular person has a good head of hair and how it got to be that way, I came up with 3 common denominators of every person with enviable hair:

  • excellent nutrition/eating habits
  • no smoking, no drinking/drugs
  • no weight issues - fairly stress-free
  • no overuse or improper use of hair coloring technique

The misconception of the NUTRITION step is that you must be on a very specific ‘diet’ of certain items. Nothing could be further from the truth. This step does not restrict you from any foods; on the contrary, I ask that you follow a well balanced sensible diet that will contribute to the growth and health of your hair.  79125003

So I encourage you to add foods that most likely you are not eating…Lots of Protein, Lots of Vegetables - -Lots of Water. Of course I do not encourage eating a lot of sugary, gooey, junk either. Be sensible. Try remembering this, “what goes in your mouth, shows up on your head” a terrific rule of thumb.

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Forensics can use a one strand hair analysis to disclose just about everything on a person and it is extremely accurate - your hair is a reflection of your health – period. Don’t you think if 1 hair strand can tell you that much about a persons health, that it packs a punch much bigger than “looking pretty’??!

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All foods you eat are eventually converted to simple compounds the body is able to utilize, glucose being the one that supplies the energy for all cellular reproduction – including the cells in the hair follicles (remember, follicle cell reproduction is one of the quickest in the body). So keeping the body nourished is imperative for healthy hair and for hair regrowth, starving yourself will shut down cell reproduction which in turn shuts down hair RE-GROWING.

The number 1 mistake that just about every person with hair problems makes is . . .lack of protein. Hair is made up protein and thrives on protein, listening to women over the years recite their diet choices, leaves me stunned with the same conclusion, their diets are what started their problems. Vegetarians have a very hard time having luxurious hair, they must put protein back in their daily diet, making sure to have it at breakfast, which is the most important meal of the day for your hair; do not skip it. Lunch is next in importance, again making sure that you include as much protein as you possibly can, strive for 50 grams of protein a day minimum. nutrition10

I have found a terrific protein supplement online, it is the Lindora Clinic’s Protein bar, the taste earns the “delicious’ award, if you can believe that – and you can get a whopping 15 grams of protein out of some of the flavors http://shop.lindora.com/Protein-Bars-and-Snacks_stcVVcatId476054VVviewcat.htm  from Lindora medical clinic . main-150The energy to your hair follicles gets depleted when you have gone for more than 4 hours without eating or snacking. Why would that matter? its difficult to explain without an entire encyclopedia of information behind it..but basically it boils down to……..the cells that reproduce in order to form a new hair strand occurs over and over all day long. If that energy is “broken” and not kept up????? Is what will cause hair thinning and hair loss. Remember the hair strand is terminal, it has an approx. 5 year life cycle on your head. When it finally does die off, you want that continuous Cycle to keep going without ANY INTERRUPTION. Eating small protein packed snacks will help there to be No interruption.killercutscolors402

 

Other ideal snacks for your hair health are fresh fruit, raw vegetables, nuts, there is nothing better (or more convenient) than a handful of almonds or a protein bar for the shine in your hair.

Colourful fruits and vegetables added to the daily diet are a necessity as well. The best way to summarize it is to say; reach for the most colourful vege’s, picking some in each color category. No one eats sufficiently in this category and the only reason I can pinpoint is; they take too long to prepare. Which is a weak answer, in my book. But, it is what it is. The solution? Hit the Farmers market every week, it takes an hour-go immediately home: wash and prepare all the veges for the week. Carrot sticks, Celery &  p-nut butter, sliced cucumbers, lettuce for salads. Most everyone now-a-days is in a rush...this facilitates grabbing something good for your hair when there is no time.

 

If you smoke - QUIT- if for no other reason than you are killing your hair. . . that sounds harsh, but in essence – you are. Smoking robs your body of oxygen which in turn robs your hair of oxygen filled blood. . .whose job it is to nourish the hair follicle.

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See the blood vessels and how they go to the base of the one hair follicle, that is the bulb inside, where the cell regeneration happens and the new hair grows. You don’t need to be a chemist to see that blood feeds the follicle; therefore what is IN the blood effects the hair. Likewise, for alcohol and drugs, if you drink too much – cut back or quit if it is a problem in your life – social drinking is fine. If you smoke too much dope, just remember why they call it dope, Pot is bad for hair, skin and nails, the sooner you quit the higher the likelihood you will have of its good qualities returning. When you get older ( 50’s-60’s) you start to notice the people that did not do any of these things when they were younger, the difference in their hair, skin and nails is nothing short of amazing. Be smart, quit now, while you’re ahead!

If you crash diet or have any of the disruptive habits of an eating disorder, your hair unfortunately, will be the first casualty. I spent 4 years volunteering at an Anorexia/ Bulimia live-in center, when the girls had a good week, they were allowed to get their hair coloured. The hair on some of those girls was irreparable; they had robbed their bodies of nutrients for so long that many of them could not recover the health of their hair, once cured . . .it was terribly sad to watch as many were very young. The cure came too late and no one had told them anorexia/bulimia was hell on hair. I feel that one fact alone would help prevent some of this disease, girls love their hair and hate to lose it.killer5715

Starving yourself, eliminating protein and neglecting certain food groups is not the way to a healthy head of hair. . . Plug protein into your diet, starting immediately if your hair is thinning or alopecia is your diagnosis. The change will not be apparent for a while but I assure you… it will come.

Food and a balanced diet is imperative for your hair to grow and re-grow, you must understand fully how the cycles work in order for you to see how absolutely necessary it is to eat correctly.

I believe NUTRITION is the Number 1 Step, and while no one wants to work on their nutrition, it is the most important of the 14 steps in gaining that strong – shiny – lustrous hair. Start with Baby Steps. . . just begin with carrots and protein bars……become accustomed to those. Begin with 2 glasses of water per day . . . working your way up as YOU and YOUR BODY can take it.

Happy Birthday America

Happy Birthday to US . . . be sure to HUG AN AMERICAN

Killer Chemist

hellforhair100

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Brush Versus Bottle, guess the Topic?

Wait for It………………

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…Hair Color Application Methods

At the beginning of writing this blog, there were quite a few topics I was both oblivious and nieve about. This was one. Since youth I had always had my hair colored professionally – then switched to Vidal Sassoon Academy and that was my pretty limited exposure to how the HAIR World did things. 

  • I never knew there was anything but foils to put hair color in…. the ole plastic cap and hook technique was a complete surprise to me
  • Then finding out people applied hair color with a bottle had me puzzled as the next unknown

With a little research I found out:  The ‘bottle’ method of hair color application has been used as the longest form of color application. Seeing it the first time puzzled me, as it didn’t seem the easiest. I like “order”, steps and things done in a certain pattern with the "BOTTLE APPLICATION”, it was just kind of a free-for-all manner of application, which in hair color is not always the best. Cutting hair should be done in a strict pattern, coloring hair should be done in a pattern and applying color should as well. When applying the hair color, it may seem like as long as the color is in the vicinity it will saturate the hair strand, and that just isn’t the truth. 

 

When learning the Sassoon method of cutting or coloring hair they have broken the process down into geometry. At first those words ‘scared’ me, and it wasn’t until I had a little experience under my belt when I realized that way was actually the “easy way”.

Geometry works simply because you are working with a “ROUND” head and STRAIGHT hair strands growing out from it. Logically it makes sense.

 

Back in the day, hair color was mainly in bottles….so it was more ‘liquid-y’ than it is now. Almost every single hair color company (except Clairol) has switched to hair color in a TUBE in today’s world. When it was more liquid-y they could use a bottle for an applicator I suppose. But still, it is not the  #1 method for clean / clear / precise application.

With Hair Color in a tube, the color of today has more “pigment” in it, which of course results in better coverage, the problem is getting it applied smoothly and evenly. Which we have mastered via the Tint Bowl and Tint brush method.

When using a Tint Bowl 

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you mix the hair color

personality

with the Developer

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with the TINT Brush

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to a nice and creamy consistency. . . . . and apply using one end of the tint brush to part the hair into quadrants and then into sections hair404. . . in order to press the hair color ONTO THE HAIR to be colored. The pressure from that brush makes those color molecules go through that cuticle and into that hair strand.

We are not talking “paint” here . . .

we are talking the chemical reaction of an OXIDIZED hair color

in order to have the best outcome, the most even glorious color, it needs to be applied with a tint brush.

Give up the old – dated - ‘makes-no-sense’ method. . . and splurge with the tint bowl and tint brush method

We have a great kit, check it out

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/10-piece-hair-color-kit

 

killer5683

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

10,000 Heads, 20,000 People and a Blog - - Changed My Life Forever

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Don’t ever think Hair is a “little” thing, I found a computer and a comb could change my outlook on the world

The beginning. . . .
About 9 years ago, I made a turn off the path I was on working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overload book of clients, there was just not enough of 'me' to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on anyone. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 my hair, 1/2 ,my weight and 1/2 of my mind!  To me this major event in my life “meant something”…. it was driving me towards becoming an expert on female hair thinning and loss. This issue of female pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) was becoming a way too common occurrence in the Salon . . 18 – 20 – 36 year olds were all coming to me with the problem. That was petrifying to me at the time.

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Which was a revelation to me that I was supposed to be working on the [ I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss. ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).
There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. That is when I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years in classes, studying and apprenticing under one of the top cosmetic chemists in the country. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body.

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The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when.
10,000HEADS started with 20 steps. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically. In other words; each step depends on another, in order for all to work to their potential. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitments. There is an end!

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Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in todays world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV.

I promise you, solving hairloss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits. 86083253

I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hairLOSS4 (hair loss, hair thinning, hair fall & hair damage) that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well. 200544402-004

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red.

It just blew me away.

Yet, she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.

Why?

Why, is what I asked over and over and over.

It took a full year to figure out.

She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business. The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!

79339184Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers' out there. The 10,000HEADS Protocol was developed when everything else failed. Its not easy, it takes commitment BUT > it has a 85-90% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss). That is a fairly high number, to most.

Over July I hope to review some of the additions + changes, deductions  etc… having to do with 10,000 HEADS. Please excuse the construction as we have a new local web girl (Jessi  - -  thanx Jess!)  who is sprucing up the BLog a little. .  and I hope to keep her with Killerstrands to keep all 4 of the sites a little more updated..

 Copy of killercutscolors714

The Comments Feature for this BLOG (in the last couple months) has been 50 SPAM comments to 1 legitimate comment…So for now, if you have any comments…. please : join the Google Group to ask them of us… it just became a huge draw to spammers they tell me because of the popularity of it.

ALSO . . .many of you will be happy to hear that the new: underground – private – Group is nearing completion. It is difficult, especially when people are basically “volunteering their time”  to help although I never ask any of my staff to work for free – EVER .  ALL of them get paid in “Care packages they receive 6 times a year” so being as I am in need of some “man-hours” on the new group/store. . if there are any others that could give a few hours of their time and are dedicated Killerstranders . . please get a hold of me. . . at KillerTrinity3@aol.com. – you will need a tiny bit of knowledge about how forum's/blogs – groups work….because Lord knows – I don’t !

TCE (this.changes.everything) will open this month, PROMISE! Come Hell or High water…

OH…..and the 20,000 People ? ?  That is how many comb the pages of the Killer Trinity web sites – weekly !   I made a mental note at the beginning of all this, that if I ever reached 20,000 people in a week – well….lets just say I would completely and utterly be blown away…………………and I am.

Thanks for all your support Gang……………

KC

Enjoy some brunettes

Bombshell hair129

Crown n Glory228 bombshell mops165

adriana-lima-long-brunette-hairstyle-08 badasshair111 badasshair126

 Bombshell hair130

Bombshell hair131

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Killer2119

Killer Strands Hair

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Ammonia in Hair Color /Facts Talk… B/S walks

Ammonia Friend or Foe

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Ammonia, the big bad chemical of hair color, is what they would have you believe. I have been explaining this one for years, and am going to give it one more shot, in light of the recent entry to hair color L’Oreal’s Non-Ammonia Hair Color ….INOA. To me? I feel the entire issue is just a misunderstanding and the very low rating of the current professional hair color by L’Oreal used the misunderstanding to introduce this new line and give it a (hopeful) boost in the race of Professional Hair color lines. Waiting until the initial flurry of advertising, analyzing,  and reviewing was over with, I’m ready to give you the exact same report as I predicted.

Style: "Neutral"

To begin with (as I always do) I went to purchase and run it through some of my own personal tests, that have showed me over the years how reliable they are.  I look for a well balanced (violet-based) “blond”, great Gray coverage, 1 gorgeous brunette with the more color selections –in both LEVELS and TONES - -the better.

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The Color Line I am reviewing must have certain ingredients in the accompanying “developers” > that (to me) is a sign the company “gets it” as far as quality and how hair color affects the hair’s health. The ingredients I feel must be in the developers are mandatory for moisturizing, conditioning, and lipid-replacement during the hair-coloring ‘development process’. This is the one and only time the cuticle of the hair is open -- THE ONE  AND ONLY > > > TIME! ( so you may change the internal structure of the hair – whether it be for ‘re-conditioning’ or ‘re-coloring’ even ‘re-moisturizing’ by using a premium Developer.

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Too many hair stylists {to save money} will purchase giant drums of cheap Developer and then put that developer in the “other” Premium bottles. Just like they do with ketchup in restaurants ( my daughter told me they fill up Heinz ketchup bottles with giant vats of crappy ketchup-) same difference. You know what is even MORE embarrassing ? Sassoon had us do that in Academy, it was one of the first things we learned - - how to dilute developer down. Sassoon was an Academy, it did not have “repeat clientele” we did everyone’s hair once. So there was a lot for me to learn about managing my own hair color business, once I got out on my own. Sassoon did not care about the health or strength of a clients hair, because they never experienced the ramifications by clients complaining about the condition of their hair.

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THAT CHANGED when I went on my own. . . with the clientele I acquired in Malibu, California…my number #1 GOAL needed to be the health of the hair. These people were back in my chair 4-5-6 weeks later and on-going for years… so that was something I had to construct myself, I wanted it to be the best in the business. I used to tell my clients, I didn’t ‘need’ business cards for my hair work. THEY were my business cards - - what better business card than a walking 3-D one?! I would get more referrals from random people asking my clients who did their hair, that was always the highest compliment, in my book.

The whole Ammonia – in….Ammonia – out controversy started 10 years back, at that time I was not educated in Cosmetic Chemistry, and what chemicals and ingredients do ‘what’ to the hair. When I went to purchase L’Oreal’s INOA, they wouldn't sell it to me……..why? You are required to take a “class” in order to purchase it…they wouldn’t even sell it to me! I was furious, I told them………..GOLDWELL tried that 6-7 years back with their color called ELUMEN.

Do you see ELUMEN on the shelves now?

No you don’t  - - - - -  that little trick doesn’t work

Colorists of the upper caliber – whom are the ones that will give your line the publicity it needs to become popular…don’t have time to take a $25.00 class (PLUS - they want to charge you to take a class in order to purchase this new color product they are trying to launch !) – are you kidding me?! After looking it over and reading some of the literature… there was HUGE RED #2 :

NO BLONDE’s!

So for that to be  part of its secrets . . . well, that is not a good one.

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What is ammonia? what does it do in hair color?

Ammonia has LLLLLLong been used in permanent hair coloring.

  Ammonia sets the stage for the hair color to penetrate the hair strand by opening up the surface of the hair strand so that the dye can get through.Then, it effectively LIFTS OUT THE NATURAL HAIR PIGMENT so that the artificial hair color molecules can penetrate and deposit. That’s when you see the new shade, so essentially, ammonia is largely responsible for hair color’s ability to alter hair tone – without washing out.

What is ammonia-free color and how does it work?80603836

Any hair color without ammonia most commonly contains MEA ( mono-ethanolamine ). MEA is effective at performing the first step of a color application – OPENING the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively. So, in my opinion, I feel it cannot be as efficient at lifting the natural hair color OUT-OF-THE- Hair Strand & depositing the artificial hair color deep into the strand. 3.5 times bigger in a molecule is more than enough to render it not NEARLY as effective. Covering gray will not be nearly as long lasting, sufficient lightening {required to produce amazing blond and red shades} will just not be there.

Having tried MEA in a few hair color tests a few years back, I noticed that it didn’t rinse out of the hair as well either, which led to progressive darkening and dulling.

beautiful long straight hair

Ammonia has a distinctive odor, which if you ask me. . . is the true objection to it. Personally, I like the ingredient that WORKS…the one that allow me to achieve the tone of hair color I am seeking and leaving the hair in good condition. I have always found ammonia to do the best job in achieving the proper tones – mainly because of the size of the molecule. The molecules must shrink to go “inside”…if they are too big - - they all will not fit. There is a layer of “common sense” here to hair coloring.

ALL Permanent Hair Color and Demi Permanent Hair Color consists of:

  • an oxidant
  • alkalizer
  • Dye

and that’s it.

Damage that may happen during the hair color process is caused by free radicals formed when the alkalizer reacts with the oxidant. Ammonia and MEA are both alkalizers.

One of the known problems of MEA is how hard it is to get it out of the hair strands when the color process is finished. One of the reasons for that “extra- training” they claim we need ? ? ? To explain how important it is that we not only rinse well, but shampoo TWICE with a Special shampoo that will be sure to get the MEA out of the hair strands, followed by 2 RINSES.

Knowing that, the most appropriate type of hair color for the MEA Alkalizer? Demi permanent.

When it comes to permanent hair color {which includes all blonds of any hue} In all tests I have studied, scientists have reported ammonia-based formulas provide longer-lasting color, more intense vibrancy, and superior gray coverage. As long as that are the results, I know for a fact, that anyone that has ever sat in my chair, cares more about 2 things:

  1. The end outcome of the hair color
  2. The health of their hair after it

10 out of 10, have never questioned ‘how’ I got their hair color to that point. If its healthy, that shows them I cared enough to make sure the hairs health was also in the equation.

                                                               Level 7 brow n wella                                                                                                               

TCE is getting very close to opening. Don’t give up on us, it has been much more time consuming and riddled with various issues that we have been tackling one by one.

Just a little bit longer . . . I hope the wait will be worth it, I feel it will.

Happy Summer KillerStranders

Killer Chemist

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?