Showing posts with label purple developer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label purple developer. Show all posts
October 5, 2014

Which Developers Are Lighter & More Liquidy, I Have Thick Yet Baby Fine Hair ?

A recent question from one of our many readers which I do appreciate. They always make me realize that this Blog will never be over ! There are hundreds, even thousands of additions to be answered  and discussed still. 

Always lovely to know !

Developer or H2O2, hydrogen peroxide is the white creamy liquid which is necessary in order for the hair coloring process to take place. Without it there would be absolutely NO lightening happening. It is THAT important, yet when I speak to people even many of you stylists you are afraid of the topic. There really is no need to be afraid of Developer. It is merely 1 molecule away from water! We all know how harmless and how good for us WATER is ??!! 


Right?

Hydrogen peroxide IS Developer. 2 words for the same thing!

Our bodies even produce hydrogen peroxide!

Hydrogen peroxide, the same mild acid that many people use to disinfectant their kitchens or treat cuts and abrasions, is also produced by the body to keep cells healthy. Now, researchers have solved how part of this complex process works.
 Hydrogen peroxide doesn't just come in bottles from the drugstore -- the human body makes it as well. Now researchers from North Carolina State University have found a way to use naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide inside cells to switch on gene expression. Their method also serves as a highly sensitive hydrogen peroxide detector, which may help scientists determine the molecule's role in cellular health and disease says Science Daily.


In a normally functioning cell, hydrogen peroxide serves as a messenger, carrying signals through a cell in order to allow the cell to respond to external stimuli or events. Once the message is transmitted, the hydrogen peroxide diffuses and disappears.
"It's an ideal messenger compound, because it's small, fast, and doesn't linger," says chemist Alex Deiters. "It works by oxidizing, or modifying, certain amino acids in proteins, which affects the protein's function."

 For example, when the immune system is activated in response to bacteria, large amounts of hydrogen peroxide are produced by certain cells to fight the infection. Lowther and colleagues studied how a molecule known as peroxiredoxin (Prx) helps control levels of the agent. The role of Prx is important because if the levels of hydrogen peroxide become too high, the cell's DNA and other proteins can be damaged. Scientists suspect that this and similar processes are what leads to cancer, diabetes and other disease.



Prx actually has a dual role in the process. Its usual job is removing excess hydrogen peroxide from the cells by converting it to water. But if levels get dangerously high -- and Prx needs help -- it becomes inactive in its "converting" job and instead becomes a "signaler," telling the cell to produce or activate other proteins to help remove the excess.

"It basically acts as a sensor and warns the cell that levels are too high and that the cell needs to respond," said Thomas J. Jönsson, Ph.D., lead author, and a post-doctoral fellow at Wake Forest. "Once that threat is gone, Prx needs to go back to its normal state."

I want everyone to understand Developer so you are not afraid of it, once that happens you will welcome the use of it and all the wonderful things it does. If our bodies did not make hydrogen peroxide we would not be alive.....so welcome it and welcome what it 
does.........Please

I also want you to know before I learned all of this I felt the exact same way, I don't know if its the name, or what....? But just the name peroxide used to conjure up horrific things in my mind. I have NO idea where it came from either..... so I am just trying to speed up the process for all of you to accept and love the wonderful little miracle called Developer!

Now, to answer your question on thick or thin..... that does not have anything to do with how it works. 
What it does affect is personal preference. 
Some people like the mixture to be runny, some like it to be thick. But what you will find being as I have worked with over 40 lines of color in my days is this...........
If the color in the tube (no matter "what brand") is on the thicker side, then their developer will be runny. 
Such as Wella's, Schwarzkopf's, Kenra, the most runny is our Violet colored developer. I actually feel it is SO runny I mix it with LANZA which is the thickest to include in our OIL BLEACH KITS, which I am just so proud of. These kits really do wonders for the hair if you are blond!


So your question as to runny or thick? That really is a personal preference. Colorists who do a lot of foil work do not like runny, because runny means the liquid will expand as it develops and then pop out of the foil leaving what we used to call "bunny trails" on the hair (or spots!) I'm sure everyone has either had them or seen them, they come from runny developer. 

The advantage to thick developer, like LANZA, which is clumpy almost....is, it has the "good alcohols" in it. Those good alcohols have one chance to get inside that hair strand and that is when the strand is open and hair color goes in, so that is the advantage of that particular developer over a thinner one. 
Personal preference?
 For me, I love Schwarzkopf's blond developer it is medium thickness and has an oily quality to it so it is very smooth to work with. But again ...........it depends on what you are mixing it with and if you are doing a root touch-up or foil work! To me the thickness of the hair shouldn't matter. 


KC

April 9, 2014

How to Become the Incredible Lightness of Being a High-lift Blonde !




One must accomplish these professional tricks to 
getting the maximum lightness out of a high-lift blonde:



  • Apply couple squirts of Gleam apply wherever color is going lightly (Gleam does NOT have silicone in it, if you have other brand oils they most likely have silicone's which screws up the way hair color works - I've never seen 1 oil without silicone in it but Killerstrands i'm sure there is more I just have not found them!
  • Use Schwartzkopf blonde booster E-O ( read the pamphlet as I have a lot of things memorized but not the amount of 'booster to color' in every brand very few even have them)
  • Ratio of developer to color must be DEAD on EXACT.... which would be for every high-lift in every brand --- 1:2  for every 1 ounce of color add 2 ounces of developer. We call it "DOUBLE 40 "
  • Color must be must be applied & processed in a warm/hot room
  • must be processed for minimum 55-65 min.
  • must use VIOLET developer / 40Volume using Highlift ---  20Volume if using Cream lightener/bleach on scalp
  • Rinse out 3 minutes longer than normal - 'light' shampoo not touching scalp
  • lightly towel dry
  • USE INTENSIVE to lock in color and prevent fading for at least 30 minutes.
  • Then we apply the toner............if you do all of that u would have a better idea if the highlift was going to work.
  •  
If it doesn't look good after all those professional tricks.
I'm sorry but you will have to give into the cream Lightener most likely.
 
Your hair is most likely too dark and has the wrong DURP which is only a matter of genetics, and you simply can't change that.

Remember my rule:

USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB

 KC
March 28, 2013

The Power of Purple. . .

The power of purple collides w/ the battle of brass  -- for Blonde's. 
Too often, the Brass wins and you are stuck using toners, purple shampoos and purple conditioners. They all work but for a short time. Enter....purple developer .Yep, violet developer. No, it does not turn your hair any shade of purple/ lavender or violet.  It is used solely to mix with either hair colors in Level 8 thru to high-lift blonds.One of the biggest problems for most of you trying to achieve a beautiful shade of Blonde, is the ongoing battle with Brass/Gold & Blorange. 

Many of you use high-lift blonde's to lift many more Levels than some are capable of. Most have not developed the technology to lift more then 2-3-4 levels using a hair color (of course you can with powder lightener), but now you can fight the brass issue with this very strong Violet based Developer that is mixed with your hair color mixture, then applied to the hair.  All of the companies "lie" boldly about how many levels of Lift they can lighten....I don't know why...but they do (its not like we won't find out ! ).

Enter a product that works to help in this never-ending battle of the Brass. Violet Developer. Which we carry in many different capacities. Why would Violet Developer help?

When is the one and only time you have entrance to the "inside of the hair strand?" When you color the hair! The hair Strand opens up and lets the color molecules inside the strand in order for the hair color change to take place. As you see in the below illustrations.




















So if that is when the cuticle opens and lets color in....why not put VIOLET developer inside of the hair strands when applying any type of blonding effect? Its brilliant actually. How many of you purchase Violet shampoos...or Violet Toners...? This works even better, you know why? In the hair color process that cuticle opens and lets both the developer molecules and the color molecules - inside...then closes trapping them in there together. 

When they are in their together they stay working together - continuously. I  colored my Assistant Kelly's hair who's hair pull's more brass than the Philharmonic orchestra!  Its been 3 weeks (!) now and its still a lovely shade of beige blonde, which means this will work wonders on everyone else. I was making a mistake and using it at the wrong strength, you will get proper proportions with each order, be sure to request.

So in closing, if you use any type of blonding from Level 8 and above in hair colors, all high-lifts, and bleach (for sure) the Violet -toned Developer is a huge MUST-MUST-MUST ! I sure wish they offered a 10Volume, because mixed with Toners could be simply DANGEROUS ! ! ! for those of us that like to C-R-E-A-T-E !
........and its right in time for Easter!
Link to this Developer click here
Killer Chemist


a

a