Ammonia in Hair Color /Facts Talk… B/S walks

Ammonia Friend or Foe?

Ammonia, the big bad chemical of hair color, is what they would have you believe. I have been explaining this one for years, and am going to give it one more shot, in light of the recent entry to hair color L’Oreal’s Non-Ammonia Hair Color ….INOA. To me? I feel the entire issue is just a misunderstanding and the very low rating of the current professional hair color by L’Oreal used the misunderstanding to introduce this new line and give it a (hopeful) boost in the race of Professional Hair color lines. Waiting until the initial flurry of advertising, analyzing,  and reviewing was over with, I’m ready to give you the exact same report as I predicted.

To begin with (as I always do) I went to purchase and run it through some of my own personal tests, that have showed me over the years how reliable they are.  I look for a well balanced (violet-based) “blond”, great Gray coverage, 1 gorgeous brunette with the more color selections –in both LEVELS and TONES - -the better.

The Color Line I am reviewing must have certain ingredients in the accompanying “developers” > that (to me) is a sign the company “gets it” as far as quality and how hair color affects the hair’s health. The ingredients I feel must be in the developers are mandatory for moisturizing, conditioning, and lipid-replacement during the hair-coloring ‘development process’. This is the one and only time the cuticle of the hair is open -- THE ONE  AND ONLY > > > TIME! ( so you may change the internal structure of the hair – whether it be for ‘re-conditioning’ or ‘re-coloring’ even ‘re-moisturizing’ by using a premium Developer
.

Too many hair stylists {to save money} will purchase giant drums of cheap Developer and then put that developer in the “other” Premium bottles. Just like they do with ketchup in restaurants ( my daughter told me they fill up Heinz ketchup bottles with giant vats of crappy ketchup-) same difference. You know what is even MORE embarrassing ? Sassoon had us do that in Academy, it was one of the first things we learned - - how to dilute developer down. 

Sassoon was an Academy, it did not have “repeat clientele” we did everyone’s hair once. So there was a lot for me to learn about managing my own hair color business, once I got out on my own. Sassoon did not care about the health or strength of a clients hair, because they never experienced the ramifications by clients complaining about the condition of their hair.



THAT CHANGED when I went on my own. . . with the clientele I acquired in Malibu, California…my number #1 GOAL needed to be the health of the hair. These people were back in my chair 4-5-6 weeks later and on-going for years… so that was something I had to construct myself, I wanted it to be the best in the business. I used to tell my clients, I didn’t ‘need’ business cards for my hair work. THEY were my business cards - - what better business card than a walking 3-D one?!

 I would get more referrals from random people asking my clients who did their hair, that was always the highest compliment, in my book.

The whole Ammonia – in….Ammonia – out controversy started 10 years back, at that time I was not educated in Cosmetic Chemistry, and what chemicals and ingredients do ‘what’ to the hair. When I went to purchase L’Oreal’s INOA, they wouldn't sell it to me……..why? You are required to take a “class” in order to purchase it…they wouldn’t even sell it to me! I was furious, I told them………..GOLDWELL tried that 6-7 years back with their color called ELUMEN.
Do you see ELUMEN on the shelves now?
No you don’t  - - - - -  that little trick doesn’t work

Colorists of the upper caliber – whom are the ones that will give your line the publicity it needs to become popular…don’t have time to take a $25.00 class (PLUS - they want to charge you to take a class in order to purchase this new color product they are trying to launch !) – are you kidding me?! After looking it over and reading some of the literature… there was HUGE RED #2 :
NO BLONDE’s!
 
So for that to be  part of its secrets . . . well, that is not a good one.

What is ammonia? what does it do in hair color?
Ammonia has LLLLLLong been used in permanent hair coloring.
  Ammonia sets the stage for the hair color to penetrate the hair strand by opening up the surface of the hair strand so that the dye can get through.Then, it effectively LIFTS OUT THE NATURAL HAIR PIGMENT so that the artificial hair color molecules can penetrate and deposit. That’s when you see the new shade, so essentially, ammonia is largely responsible for hair color’s ability to alter hair tone – without washing out.
What is ammonia-free color and how does it work?
Any hair color without ammonia most commonly contains MEA ( mono-ethanolamine ). MEA is effective at performing the first step of a color application – OPENING the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively. So, in my opinion, I feel it cannot be as efficient at lifting the natural hair color OUT-OF-THE- Hair Strand & depositing the artificial hair color deep into the strand. 3.5 times bigger in a molecule is more than enough to render it not NEARLY as effective. Covering gray will not be nearly as long lasting, sufficient lightening {required to produce amazing blond and red shades} will just not be there.
Having tried MEA in a few hair color tests a few years back, I noticed that it didn’t rinse out of the hair as well either, which led to progressive darkening and dulling.

Ammonia has a distinctive odor, which if you ask me. . . is the true objection to it. Personally, I like the ingredient that WORKS…the one that allow me to achieve the tone of hair color I am seeking and leaving the hair in good condition. I have always found ammonia to do the best job in achieving the proper tones – mainly because of the size of the molecule. The molecules must shrink to go “inside”…if they are too big - - they all will not fit. There is a layer of “common sense” here to hair coloring.
ALL Permanent Hair Color and Demi Permanent Hair Color consists of:

• an oxidant
• alkalizer
• Dye

and that’s it.
Damage that may happen during the hair color process is caused by free radicals formed when the alkalizer reacts with the oxidant. Ammonia and MEA are both alkalizers.
One of the known problems of MEA is how hard it is to get it out of the hair strands when the color process is finished. One of the reasons for that “extra- training” they claim we need ? ? ? To explain how important it is that we not only rinse well, but shampoo TWICE with a Special shampoo that will be sure to get the MEA out of the hair strands, followed by 2 RINSES.
Knowing that, the most appropriate type of hair color for the MEA Alkalizer? Demi permanent.
When it comes to permanent hair color {which includes all blonds of any hue} In all tests I have studied, scientists have reported ammonia-based formulas provide longer-lasting color, more intense vibrancy, and superior gray coverage. As long as that are the results, I know for a fact, that anyone that has ever sat in my chair, cares more about 2 things:

1. The end outcome of the hair color
2. The health of their hair after it

10 out of 10, have never questioned ‘how’ I got their hair color to that point. If its healthy, that shows them I cared enough to make sure the hairs health was also in the equation.
                                                              

Thriven Deep Conditioner + Compliments

 

May: More Thriven Arrives on your door-step while compliments of KillerStrands surprize

Always remember your roots, where you came from and who you are. As much as I concentrate on hair color education for many of you, I never want to forget our roots and how Killer Strands Hair Clinic began. On teaching you how to acquire:
HEALTHY HAIR 
with my ace training at Vidal Sassoon Academy (while still privately owned; btw) – it was drilled into my brain and I concur – nothing is as important as Healthy – Shiny – Strong Hair……….NOTHING. Not one thing should be applied to the hair that will destroy its integrity, shine & growth. There is such a huge gap between what the public knows in how to create shiny strong hair and actual “fact”. . . it was the original reason for writing this BLOG…for giving “YOU” the public the knowledge that I possess, that many Sassoon educators know. 

10,000 Heads began 15 years ago with 3 Steps. It (obviously) was not called 10,000 HEADS (the amount of heads-of-hair, I had worked on at one point in my career), but the theory and bascis are the same. Do whatever is necessary to contribute to healthy hair. Hair Color need not be detrimental, quite the opposite as a matter of fact {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}, yes it will take a little work. There are very few rewarding things in life that don’t take ‘ a-little-work!’. The number 1 recommendation I give people “NEW” to Killer Strands {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}.  

When I reviewed the stats for May, I saw that THRIVEN had risen to the top of all 350 products we carry as the NUMBER 1 product sold. I don’t know ‘why’ it surprises me, its what we began with.
I sold THRIVEN in my Malibu Salon for $94.50, 8 years ago – and could never keep it in stock. Its a full day experience for me to put the concoction together, with the amount of it we sell now, I don’t know how much longer I can continue to do it myself. If you have not experienced THRIVEN, I will encourage you to give it AND the SECRET SUPPLEMENT a 90 day spin. (information on ‘where to purchase’ and how to incorporate into your life are enclosed w/ package). Remember, I have an 80-88% success rate with THRIVEN + Secret Supplement. There are 14 Steps to 10,000HEADS, we ask you incorporate the last 7 into your life and do your best on the first 7….the more you practice the better the improvement in your hairs health, strength and shine. Promise.
Remember though, I am a rarity…I still have not heard of a single person (if you are out there – let me know!) that has training in all the different aspects of hair care that I do. Add to that my naturally inquisitive attitude, and you get what the members lovingly call me “ KC  - - or Killer Chemist”.
Being the CHO (Chief Hair Officer) of Killer Strands Hair Clinic ; it puts me in a wonderful spot … I receive numerous compliments a week ( some are ‘due’ my Forum Staff, some my shipping/packing staff) the remainder are for me. I cannot stress how much these compliments mean to me, they give me the strength to keep going . . . they bring an indescribable warmth to my heart … they just truthfully MAKE - -  MY - - Day. I don’t want any of you to think I take your compliments lightly….EVER. EVERY single one means the world to me.
I used to THANK every single person, now I simply, do not have the time. Please know I appreciate every single one….I mean it,
every
single
one !
This week brought a compliment from the exact category of individuals I was sure would never send me one.         Hair Stylists/ Hair Educators.
I just had to share it with you
If you are a qualified and talented hair stylist/colorist the last thing you worry about are ‘other’ stylists.
Why should you?
Your book is so full of appointments there are waiting lists of people who want you to do their hair….there really isn’t any room for more clients. 40% of KillerStrands membership are licensed Hair Stylists (Yep!) looking for additional education, normally from smaller states – where it is not available. I commend these people for having the confidence and security to understand that what KillerStrands is doing is not against the hair industry and their business but rather “FOR” it.     
I would like you to read the following complimentary email I received from a new member:
“ ………….10:23 AM (23 hours ago)
Just by chance I found your blog.  Seems I am always searching for honest education.  I am a stylist of twenty-five years and I am still trying to sort fact from fiction!  I grew weary, in the early part of my career, with education from "professional" companies using education as a vehicle to sell and market their products.  Thus began my quest for education without sponsorship from any brand.  I think the first great information I found was a book by Tom Sollock, then I found Beth Minardi and traveled to NYC to take her class, then there was Roy Peters and Tom Despenza.  I wish I had known you at that point.  I have spent thousands of dollars and bought many books and the things I have learned thus far are in your two year blog, better said and more easily understood.
I am also a cosmetology instructor. I work when needed, substituting, color classes, cutting classes, for a Jr. College.  Your knowledge and skill of communicating in book form would be a great contribution to the cosmetology profession. It would have the potential of making the profession, professional.
I have ordered several of your products and found everything you have said to be true.  Thank you for this great resource of information and products.
Diana S.
TEXAS………………”

I realize the web has changed a lot in the past few years. There is so much BS - - - so much ‘mis’ information…you don’t know what to believe in. There was a 2-3 year period - - when the info on the Web was accurate – it ‘was’ educational, you could rely on it.
With Diana’s note, I feel she “summed” Killer Strands up - - better than I.   Thanks Diana. . . and to ALL that send us compliments, it means the world to me and inspires me to continue on
Happy Fathers Day, Dad . . .  and to all the Fathers out there
HUG  A   FATHER
Killer Chemist

I Scream …You Scream… We All Scream For Ice Cream Hair Color Palette

Krazy Kolors Go Pastel

Yes the style’s are over-the-top . . . but check-out the beauty and what can be done with hair in 2010. The top Hair Stylist in the world right now is a gentleman named Eugene Soulemain and although most of have never heard of him - he is the Vidal Sassoon of 2010 – this is his work.

Its not everyone’s taste, not even mine. . . BUT, sometimes you just have to admire the complexity that it took to make these colors AND styles happen. In the top echelons of hair there have always been these extremists, extreme texture, extreme color, extreme haircuts. Makes the observer wonder, “who in the world would ever wear this ?? “ To that, I respond….not many..in fact pretty much no one. The point is to push the boundaries of what can be done, so that the extreme nature of these ‘do’s – are then re-interpreted for film and other ventures. Think Avatar, Music Videos, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Video Games, etc.


A Salute to the Vampire hotness of today, am a huge True Blood Fan….I’d love to see this on the show.

This looks like Lady Gaga

   hmmmmmmm ? ? ? ? ?

h











Check out the insane make-up job on all of them, I mean as weird and crazy as it is…what else would look good with that type of hair…it looks very cool

I think it was last week , but one of you  wrote in the Group ( I think it was ) that you really wanted to have the color of this certain flower….at the time, I responded with : “while the color of the flower was drop dead…I wasn’t too sure it would look very good on the hair.
I am now here to admit, I was COMPLETELY WRONG. . .  COMPLETELY… Check this out . . . . .

I would love to have someone take this on right now. . . its bold but it is….. B E A U T I F U L….{the hardest part is finding a person daring enough to do the wild and crazy color work ..I so enjoy doing}
so, whomever  that was….I’m impressed with your “eye for color” – obviously it is leaps and bounds ahead of my own.
Summer is here,
do something fun with your hair  - - You only live once, and hair is more resilient  than you think
Killer Chemist

Answers To Your Hair Question are Here

“How to SEARCH Killer Strands Blog”: by Nikki, Our Dear, Longest Staff Member

In the Killerstrands group, we believe in helping you learn for yourself, how to take the best care of your hair.  We encourage you to read and learn the great information Killer Chemist has shared with us. And one of the best ways is to use the blog to research...
Why read it thoroughly? Because the answer to your question is almost always written already… If you don’t remember where you read it, you just need to be familiar with how to look…

Super Simple Search:

On the TOP of the blog, above the “Killerstrands” header – is a dark blue bar. On the far left is a “search box” for the blog itself. Enter the word or phrase you need more information about...and hit enter or the click the magnifying glass to search. If that doesn’t do it, use a similar term... search. IF that doesn't work, search on the opposite term.

3 easy tips on how to learn more:

1) Find out by using the topics. Use the tags on the right side of the blog. Detour did a marvelous job of tagging the topics for the entire blog (WOW)... you can usually read down the list and find one or more that are pretty close to the key word for your questions. These links start about one full blog post down (below the first set of ads) in the right-hand column. Search this way first, as sometimes the word "I" might think makes sense (bleach) has so many meanings - "developer" is not there alone, but "peroxide/developer" is.... So don’t stop at the first one or two options – read through the list.

2) Keep reading the blog, beginning to end - and do NOT skip the notes. Frequently, some great details and many expanded explanations are in the notes. KC hasn't gotten all of the questions turned into blog posts yet. A wealth of material lurks there - including her recipe for 6 shades of ribbons for my blondish hair.
REMEMBER - as time has gone by, some of the early recommendations have been changed, as far as products. Subsequent posts note, for example, that x or Y was a disappointment. (Clairol Pro, for example - had promise but it didn't hold true to it). That's why sometimes jumping into action too soon is not good - read and keep reading… make sure.... the answers are not always immediate.
3) Join the Killerstrands group (you will find information on how to the right of the blog). You can search the discussions for group. And - do not take anyone's advice but KC's unless she echoes or reinforces it. There are good answers and good discussions in the group. In the early days, before the store, KC had more time to post answers there, so there are some expanded topics. Additionally, the moderators and other group members help by pointing to the answers in the blog, so you can find more information or longer explanations in the discussions. The Killerstrands group has a search box, too.

Once you’ve joined, you can go to the group’s home page:
http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands?hl=en
Look on the same "row" as the group’s title, to the right. You will see a search box with two buttons after it, which will enable you to search the group. Enter the word or phrase in the box(see point 1 above – try synonyms as well). When you click a button, pick the first one “Search this group” - you don't want to search the world of all google groups for bleach and tone!
In addition to G1(Group1) , which will remain exactly the same . . . we are expanding our little hair care empire . .  with an addition of a Fee-Based PREMIUM LUXURY Group – the name? TCE – This Changes Everything    
Last tip: don’t forget to not only read, but click through and shop the advertisers. That helps KC. It makes it possible to keep the blog alive, and the readership statistics help encourage her.
killer Chemist