Happy New Year to all Hair Addicts in the Entire World

Hello HALO: from the City of Angels; comes the product made for all Angels : Graham Webb's --> HALO HIGH GLOSS RINSE

When I first went exploring on the INTERNET to see what was available regarding "Hair" web sites / Blogs , I found out almost every single one were actually "Product Reviews", which baffled me. How about You ? It still baffles me. There is no real hair education and none of the owners of the sites are licensed Cosmetologists, Stylists, Colorists, nor Make-up artists . . . they are one thing . . .many of them are great writers.  Very snazzy, very technically correct and extremely verbally educated.
That part makes me jealous.
ALTHOUGH . . . if I had to choose, I'd still choose having the education over the technical writing skills. I continue to be baffled about the fact that most of the beauty web sites are written by non-professional's. Anyone? Although I know why many of my former colleagues do not choose this method over the Salon method (first off there is simply no way in Hell you could do both - there simply are not enough hours in a day). This, as hard as it may seem to comprehend, is much more time consuming and not nearly as profitable. A top Hair Stylist can make 6 figures, easily...yes, it takes a while but once you are there. . . you can only keep going up.
The deal is though, when you have one of these type of sites, you can call nearly any company . . . tell them you are interested in reviewing their products and they will send you a sampling of their top products - complimentary - of course.  Which may sound all well and good to most of you, but have you ever heard the line "be careful what  you "wish for . . .  
      I still have yet to find much in the way of honest Hair Education, Hair Color Education . . . anywhere. How about you>?  If any of you have any suggestions for other sites you are impressed with would you mind sharing with me? It is very hard for me to spend much time surfing the web, when I can hardly catch up with my emails for the week.

Point being --> I've Yet to Develop my List of Favorite Products - FOR EVERY CATEGORY. Like "my" favorite HAIR SPRAY. My favorite sulfate-Free shampoo, my Favorite HAIR DRYER, etc, etc . . but am trying to get the list together so maybe by END OF January 2009 I will have it put together for you all and by then Detour will be able to teach me how to make a new Page on this Blog to display it on. I'm hoping to bribe him with a shipment of one product of whatever he wants! Remember he is our trusty Manager from Australia - so that makes the shipment a big deal .
What I have found, that in 16 years I have never come across a product this great from this category. I keep laughing every time I start to write this post, be CAUSE it just sounds so darn funny to me. Plus I know every top Stylist/Colorist will also be snickering at this, "yeah sure'' will be steaming out of their ears, I promise you...it would out of mine. Although I went for a cruise looking for any PRESS on this product and it is starting to hit everywhere already, so soon this should be everywhere, I'm disappointed in myself, I used to know these things a year or so ahead of the rest of the universe.  A reminder to get my butt in to the Reps and TUNE IN...
No one has or had mastered this technology.
Until now.
High GLOSS Shine  + one that seriously works for a week or 2 + it is truly amazing. 
Years ago I'm sure most of you remember the "Cellophane" technology first introduced by Sebastian . . . or maybe you at least read about it? Yes - - - No ? ? ? Well, anyway in the early 90's a brand new "landmark" technology was introduced to the Hair World  and it was introduced as: Cellophane's, which supposedly gave the hair a clear or colored shear coating on the hair strand that was supposed to last about 4-5 weeks.
My problem with it when I first got in this biz was that it did NOT come out - at ALL. Things like that, which are that permanent, in my opinion, should NOT be put on the hair. Everything should gradually wash out, the tiniest bit possible per shampoo is the ultimate in what top Colorists look for, we do not want to be cutting the hair to get it out, clients do not like that having to happen at ALL. It can ruin,severely a great hair cut.      Not desirable.

As before I try to test new products for 30 days in my standard TEST RUNS....on clients,off clients, on doll heads, under microscopes, silly ways too > applying in incorrectly PLUS correctly. One thing I did with this is leave it on a clients hair for a couple hours while she was here hanging out anyway helping with another unrelated  project - the PROPER Directions : Apply to towel dried hair - comb in evenly. Leave in for 3-5 minutes. Wrap in heat for long-lasting gloss.  Rinse thoroughly.                                   leaving it in for a few hours was a HUGE HUGE mistake, so you now know that one. Leaving this on LONGER is not the proper liberty to take with this one, it leaves it all Gunked Up . . and slimy kind of - weird - but definitely NOT what you want. . .you live <> you Learn. So I've maybe not put it through all my tests, but it is a very light type product, there is no developer or processing liquid of any kind it all comes in one bottle  - - so therefore -- no large chemical reaction is taking place.
The HALO Line is made by Graham WEBB  . . . which in the 'old' days when it was owned by itself was a very well respected line on its own. I actually  don't know what happened to it, well it got bought up by GERMAN <> Wella, one of my favorite companies....and now it is owned under the huge umbrella that is known as P & G Hair Care. Proctor and Gamble USA, the single largest hair manufacturing company in the world ( maybe that's what happened !?! ha ha )
Now in doing some research on this new wonder-product that I just, had not heard of until now, I discovered some even better and more satisfying news about its ingredients that made me even happier { you must understand this just hardly ever happens to me anymore, so I have been stunned about it for a few weeks now... ever so anxious to tell you all, my new little secret } . The ingredient list has got a WOW factor to it, you all are so lucky . . . you have me watching out for products that have the proper ingredients in it . . . there will never be anything on my personal site Killerstrands.Blogspot.com  that I don't endorse . The Ad's well you all know I have nothing to say about those, remember that. .[ they help Killer Strands exist for FREE, remember, so support them as often as you can - every little bit helps]
Now back to the Graham Webb products called HALO..... they have this wonderful technology that goes hand in hand with 2 threads we were talking about in the Group . . . Panthenol and the "good" alcohols that help the hair, which you should try to learn the names of.
All Graham Webb products contain an active ingredient called Thermacore Complex, which turns hot water, blow dryers and styling tools into beneficial, conditioning treatments. When the heat from water or styling tools reaches 98° F or above, Thermacore Complex crystals break down into molecular particles small enough to penetrate into the hair shaft. By working from within the hair shaft, Thermacore Complex obtains the optimum level of benefits, without any build-up or coating on the hair. These penetrating crystals help give hair condition, moisture and protection, yet still allow hair to remain full of volume, bounce, and body.
This is a magnified view of the Thermacore® Complex conditioning crystal before being broken down by heat of 98° or above (water or a blow dryer).

Once heated, the crystal breaks down into molecular particles small enough to penetrate the hair shaft working to repair and restore even the most damaged hair.
Ingredients:
panthenol

Panthenol is a vitamin B5 derivative with moisturizing properties that help repair, thicken and strengthen damaged hair.
allantoin

Allantoin, derived from comfrey root, is also known for its moisture content, water binding capabilities and ability to maintain softness.
myristyl alcohol

Myristyl Alcohol is one of the GOOD alcohol's so remember the name  . . .  it is a conditioning emollient derived from coconut, which serves as the binding vehicle for the entire complex.
All the HALO products have this cool little Thermacore complex
 
within the formula, so to be truthful you cannot go wrong I am imagining, the thing is, as is with most lines of products there are 1,2 maybe 3 individual products if they are super lucky, within one line that are great. I had only heard great things about this one product even though there are a whole lot more products , I simply don't have the time to test every product out, so I only focus on the ones I hear personal - reputable -  RAVES about.
Here's the blurb from the company about the High Gloss RINSE :
Illuminate and protect hair color with this weekly high gloss rinse that intensifies color vibrancy while maximizing shine and luminosity.
Features & Benefits:
- Translucent formula wraps each hair strand in a protective gloss for unprecedented vibrancy.
- Cationic conditioning detects hair's neediest areas to deposit shine where hair needs it most.
- Speed selective processing delivers results in as little as five minutes. Heat and additional time may be used for heightened shine results.
- Halo's exclusive Illuminating Color Protection technology seals in hair color to prolong its vibrancy and reflects light to reveal a luminous, radiant glow.
I try to bring you on my site, the best of the best -- so you know what you order will be the best in a category -- period.
I will eventually have a very clean - minimalist - shopping cart where you will be able to purchase each one in a very normal fashion . . . this next year will reveal a lot - - to me; my body; and my health. I will either have room to improve or not and will have only one other direction to go in. So my thoughts and all my work will be positive this year and hopefully I will win! 

I will be sending samples with January orders, or you can order it
right here
right now
thank you,
Killer chemist

Happy New Hair Year to All and To All a Good Night. . . .

 

Look Whats Coming Out This Month

with 2 whole new tonal series

Blonde Blitzen, Red Rudolph, Brunette Bobs & Donner Darkness >> Hair Colors Through the Season

Merry Merry Christmas to all of my wonderful Readers and Followers

new posts and Demo's are on their way

 

  

  

 

 

I'm in the process of catching up on all my emails . . .and any orders you have placed. . . hang on I'm trying to get to all of you and I apologize for my absence

Thank You for your patience

KC

Precision Cutting Techniques ; Contemporary Hair Styles

  a  great Hair Cut is the beginning 

of

               a great Hair STYLE                 

Learnin' the Lovely Hair Color - LEVEL SYSTEM - One More Time

Nothing better than going back to basics

  Hair color theory is a topic we can never cover too much, with all the  experimenting going on by our readers . . . I figure one more trip down the road couldn't hurt. Besides, repetition is the basis of all great education. A great way to continue understanding hair color theory is to understand the difference between Levels and Tones. Levels and Tones are the 2 most important characteristics of color, every single hair color has these 2 attributes - remember that. To confuse things at the beginning some rare companies refer to "Tones" as "Shades"... the more current choice is Tones - so forget 'Shades'. Now, the 2 characteristics of color we will discuss are Levels and Tones and this post is one that should stick with you to make a lot of what you do and choose make sense.
LEVELS
For those who are not clear on what the Level System is - the definition is simple - it refers to the lightness or depth (darkness) of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. Words such as light, medium, dark, palest, darkest, and very light, tell you about a color's level. Level is, very simply , how light or how dark a hair color is. The exact definition is simple -- it is the numerical system of judging color in numbers - one level being a measure of light or dark in the hair. The system assigns a number for measuring dark to light without regard to tonal value.



To be perfectly frank, in this country where we have a system for everything . . . there is no universal measurement of a Level  - - one companies Level chart will vary from another's. I wish the companies could just get it together to agree on a Universal Chart within the USA, they would have nothing to lose from the prospect, I think it would make it easier for clients, stylists, everyone to have a system in place. Maybe - - someday.

They of course would have to be fairly similar . . . because there is only so many ways you can cram in 10 levels of color in 1 chart. In Europe they are putting the finishing touches on a universal system for much of the hair color and cosmetic chemistry industry, it makes me sooooo jealous. Having the system they have in place makes for much safer, easier and correct hair care. Some day we will follow suit, just sad to think it won't be in my lifetime.
Some product lines have 10 Levels, some 11, but now-a-days  most have 12. What happened was.... having Level 1 thru 10 with Level 1 being Black and 10 being Lightest Blond was the almighty Level System. . . they then came up with the High lift Blond category approx. 20 years ago and needed a place to put it in the present "Level System".  Well, that's when the new category of High lift blond's and Level 12's appeared. For some reason that rattled a lot of people,  it has slowly calmed down and it is a widely & well excepted now. 

I think a good thing to remember is that a 'light brown' may look darker in one system and lighter in another.  So don't always think  Level 6 is what you think it is, when you change "lines" . EVERY single line has it own variations, although I will give them all credit for trying to abide by one standard here in the USA. Regardless . . . again - - the lowest is a level 1 which is Black and the highest is Level 10 which is lightest Blond. There is only so many ways you can cram those other 8 levels in there, isn't there ! The biggest trick you get is in the lines I swear by . . . Wella's European lines Koleston perfect and Color Touch. First of all these 2 lines are made to use in conjunction with each other... + They are a solid one level darker than any of the American lines .... BECAUSE  - - - in the Koleston Perfect line they have eliminated "black" and use "darkest Brown" as their Level 1.  So in order for the 2 lines to go together Color Touch follows suit. Please remember that, I point it out to everyone that gets a Color consult . . . there are many advantages to a consult....if you haven't tried one.
Each line ( to confuse things even more) will have different names for each level... one may call Level 6  "Dark Blond" . . . while another may call it "Light Brown" . . . even though its the same color. All of this adds to the problem of trying to understand the Level System finally and completely for you. Levels are precise degrees of lightness or depth, standardized across the manufacturer's tonal groups. All colors of the same level with have the same degree of lightness or depth, whether natural (neutral), ash, gold, red, beige, brown-ash, or any other tone. I think this is a part of the Level System some of you struggle with, and that is mainly because all hair color swatch charts - - concentrate on the "Browns" - - so you can't see it as plainly as you can with the brunette palette.  So many of you ask what . . ." what Level would I be if I am talking Reds ? . . . it works the exact same way. Remember  - - - - its the lightness and darkness of a color  - - - be it Red, Brown, Purple, Brown-Red-Violet, or whatever. Therefore, all colors ( even green, even pink!) can have "Levels". 

To Illustrate this, visualize a tall building, black at the basement and white at the penthouse, evenly graduating from dark to light, each story a grade lighter than the one beneath it. That's the International Level System, with numbers identifying those grades of dark to light.  If you wash this image with a Tone, such as ASH, then you have a Tonal Series.
Imagine a black & white photograph in your mind . . . .you are only seeing "levels of color" not TONES.   You must just gear your mind to think in "light & dark" . . .  its difficult ... but it can be done, I have faith in you!

TONES
Tone refers to the hue of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. The main tones, or hues of hair coloring are neutral, ash, gold, & red - but these have spread so far and wide now  that my favorite line Wella's Koleston Perfect has 23 TONAL CATEGORIES !! I love it! Before they were doing this I was making them up on my own, so now I don't have to do so much mixing. When I do consults I try to really cut down on the amount of colors I recommend, because I think some of you may think I'm nutty. But when I formulate for my own clients I don't think there is ever been a case when I use one color. Its just not in my make-up, I have been a painter and artist since high school, I went to Art college . . . so to me mixing colors is an art and a science. I shoot for colors that are like a child's hair color,  so using just 7B never cuts it for me... I will use a little 7B + a little 7BRV ( Brown-Red-Violet) for depth and some 7N to cover those few grays she has.....that is how I formulate hair color. Using one color is almost against my religion . . although I will say it has become easier to not have to use so many colors with all they are adding to their palette.
Manufacturers usually indicate the tones of their colors with letters: "A" for ASH, "N" for Neutral, and so on, so if you can just get handy at figuring out those, it will make your life easier. they originally tried to make numbers stick to represent the tones. . for instance, .1 means ASH . . . then a Level 6 ASH...would be "6.1". Wella of course, does both. . . so they have numbers and letters if you look at their chart which you can see in the GROUP   http://groupspaces.com/KillerstrandsHairClinic/     
if you would like.

Any color - hair color or not -- can be described, theoretically, in terms of level and tone. If a blanket is blue ( tone) then how light or dark is it ( level)?  Is it very dark blue, like navy . . .Is it nearly black like ink? Is it somewhat deep, but not dark - -medium -- like royal blue? Or is it pale as the pale blue sky . . . these are distinctions in level.
The term tone, is used to describe the warmth or coolness of a color. Reds, oranges, yellows are all warm tones, as are auburn, copper, gold, bronze, or honey. the cool tones are blue, green and violet. Descriptive hair color names in the cool range include ASH, DRAB, SMOKY, or PLATINUM.
If you are having trouble distinguishing between Level and Tone . . give it some time . .it will come to you . . . like all education, its worth learning...stick with it.

Killer Chemist