GAME OF TONES Versus THRONES : Platinum Queen? Tinted Oil Bleach : Mandatory

Platinum Hair is the Hair of the Gods

As the end of Game of Thrones drew to a close the requests for blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box Most of the country. . . wanting a nice platinum blonde. I happen to think Game of THRONES turned into a wonderful story to watch. Its now a love story, but the author of the books already told us that now didn't he. I never knew, til Sunday! Now I want Platinum hair !

Daenerys

 Daernery's hair color...they call it silver on the show , it is merely platinum though, she does wear many different wigs so please don't be under the illusion that is her real hair.


 But we have a product that I have not talked about enough. I was telling a fan about it today as we discussed going blonde and my answer was the number one way to go blonde is our blue/violet tinted oil creamy bleach that we make I am most proud of 3 products we make here at killerstrands that you can get nowhere in the world but here. Blue/Violet tinted oil-Creamy bleach 

 

 Gleam and BLAST..........
I've tested this product on many levels of hair color and the amount of yellow and brass it gets rid of simply amazing. I am not exaggerating....... just having the bleach AND the developer tinted with these colors is truly amazing to me. I wish Colorists would try it just to see the difference it makes. It makes going blond 1 full Level easier, because the blue-violet gets in the strands and really stamps out the damn brass and gold so common when lifting hair lighter.

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application - well on 2nd thought it is a process...because anything you apply to the hair is a process.. But there you have the technical name of the process that you can ask for at any good Hair Salon . My suggestion is, if you are thinking of going platinum, go have a consultation first.  Any good Stylist should give out free consults in my book or charge and take it off the price of the appointment. Its expensive if done correctly ...in my book it should never be a rushed procedure taking time when doing major conversions to the hair make the hair healthier and stronger. Let the hair lighten slowly and evenly  by leaving the lightener on for minimum 65-75 minutes, removing it rinsing, and drying the hair and then re-applying . The trick is the re-application, don't waste time leaving the lightener on longer its just simply the wrong method.

A good colorist knows that at about 65-75 minutes the top strength of the bleach fades and slows to to a crawl. To get maximum and safe lift the true trick we all use is reapplying it and NOT using a dryer - EVER. Bleach is not supposed to have heat applied to it and I hear that so many people get stuck under a hair dryer while they wait for there stylist to free-up from the other person they started. DON'T LET THAT HAPPEN.
 
Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating after this transformation and I am not exaggerating. Its why Colorists love what they do so much......a good one gives a person a new identity 9 times out of 10 and that is an amazing feeling. 

Its amazing what a hair color 

can do to a personality

When mixing Killerstrands Oil Bleach ... (found in Killerstrands Clinic) it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The creme and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If for some reason you forget and begin doing it the wrong way please stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. 

Following the enclosed personal directions from me......to a T....... will give you that

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline

There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, then lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took bring the natural base to yellow


With double process this is important: When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in our Killerstrands INTENSIVE, which will pH balance your hair and stop & lock-in the color . This will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving INTENSIVE on for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  INTENSIVE is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. 






TONER TIME
Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair.  I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? . Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. 

Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? They are not oxidative - they are Semi-permanent - which means they do not use a developer but work just as well on platinum hair, a nice one to start out with is No-MO-Brass or PERP or Violet Pilot.........let your hair calm down and rest after it has been lightened and it will stay healthy and on your head.

 How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ?  INTENSIVE followed by an overnight conditioning with THRIVEN rinse in cool water in the morning for 8-10 minutes and you will be one very happy Targaryn - I mean Platinum-head .......then go looking for your own Jon Snow.The looks you will get will set you free!

Slices Versus Highlights Demo OR Ribbons of Light

BABY-LIGHTS or Ribbons of LIGHT

Application & Kit!

 

I feel everyone should take a look at this version of "Slices" so you understand what a SLICE is compared to a HIGHLIGHT ! 

 

Now, the way they are done in this DEMO is not how I would suggest doing them. I wanted to show an exaggerated version to show you the 'technique'. they are too light on too dark of hair, but please this is trying to show you how they lay differently than highlights and hopefully you can see how simple they are to add a few thin ones to your own hair.

Now, in Jenifer Anniston's hair, she has dozens of these only much thinner and using a multiple of colors.In her hair or for that look you would use 

FOR EXAMPLE:

• ILLUMINA 8/69 + 40Volume
• Koleston Perfect 10/16 + 40 volume
• Framesi US/A + Booster + 40 Volume
• Blondor Cream Lightener + 10 Volume

Babylights - DEMO

6 FOILS + BLEACH = using SLICES

We will call her Holly for the sake of discussion

Holly needs to deal with how much gas costs, and the fact that she lives in a town that has no good Colorists. She is tired of the brown hair and now has Killer Strands to help. She saw, that the professional Creme Bleach in the Killerstrands Store was the trick to not damaging her hair... there are conditioners and lipids added to creme bleach - she read, which sounds a lot more forgiving...added to that the moisturizers and conditioners that will come with the developer that comes with. This way my hair will be in the best condition possible when done. I can do it............. it cannot be that hard.

We will only be doing the one side of the head as we did the other side with another Demo a while ago.

I tried very hard to make this parting look exactly like a piece of apple pie, that should be your trick. She told me to make sure I parted the triangle all the way to the very back of my head and in the exact middle. That way I can put one of my slices of light in the back, on both sides, . . . . it will be in the back of my head and I should be able to do it myself with my rear-view mirror's I have set up on my walls. I've tried it once before and it worked pretty easy. The piece in the back is really skinny so its easy.

This is the Creme bleach lightener - I bought and saw on Killerstrands Color Clinic  I want to do all I can to protect my hair and its condition, I have been pretty bad to my hair in the past couple years.......... I need to make up for that (ssh!)

OK - here are the foils I bought too, I didn't care about the color, I cared about the fact that they were embossed and that made them not slip and being as I don't know what I am doing I wanted to take away "that" from the difficulty of doing foils for me. You can ask for a few foils when you buy the Creme Bleach. They were so much easier to use than most. Now, you absolutely MUST make the edge that I am showing you. Fold it once and then again....a very thin fold as you can see... that fold helps the color from leaking out.

The very first parting needs to be made to part OFF the hair surrounding the face so that it is left out. Leaving it the color the hair is , in my case I wanted it to be brown so I didn't have a weird light blond stripe right against my face. That would look funny I thought, when you see me at the end you can decide.

See how super thin the very first slice of hair I take is??? I had a hard time taking the picture and showing you at the same time but I think you can see. Its less than 1/8 of an inch ! I place that first foil very close to the slice of hair, notice that so when you do it you will do it the same. I had bought a mannequin and practiced on her for a while, it was fun so... I didn't care -- I wish they would have taught us this when we were in high school. 

Remember when we had HOME EC.? I think we should have sewing, cooking and hair color. Why Not I wonder? More people I know would rather color their hair, than cook. 

Maybe it should be the other way around. . . >>............but it isn't !

Notice, where I place the foil and where i begin to paint the creme bleach...Do not put the lightener ON the fold - - - and why do I do this? I learned my lesson, all bleaches and all hair colors ...."swell" when they are processing, which means they grow and the last thing Notice you want is the bleach leaking out of the end ...as it will make FUGLY spots on the hair that you will not like .... so be very careful how far "in' you put the color.

This is too close - I wanted you to see what is too close....just a tiny bit on the right side> see it??...so I took the foil off and re-did it...but I didn't photograph the re-do . . .

Just be aware that happens ...

if its too close to the fold then re-do it....but that's a lot harder to maneuver so try very hard to be very careful at the fold.

Finally I have the first foil done and am closing it up. Fold it in half - - first. Then fold the sides in....

Now am leaving "that much" of the hair OUT OF THE FOIL >>>> about 3/4 " so there is some of the brown in between each foil . One of the biggest problems I see is Stylists who just won't leave the natural color out of the foils.... so there is variation. Again this is an exaggerated version.

The same very thin parting. . . which is the "SLICE" of hair...appropriately named once I figured out what I was doing.

The same pattern is repeated basically all the way up this side of the hair. Now something she taught me that I did not pick up on myself... when I am using bleach, I can time it so it all ends up 'done' at the same time. Like here for example... if you are not fast, mix one small amount of bleach for this side....and mixed the creme bleach with 20 Volume { another good part of ordering from Killer Color Clinic - you can ask for whatever volume of developer you want - i got 1/2 -- 20 Volume & 1/2 -- 40 Volume} . Now to make it so the 2 sides end up "done" at the same time...[like making a big dinner!] 

I mixed up another small batch of Creme bleach with 40 Volume for the other side. Remember 40 Volume work twice as FAST as 20 Volume - - it is NOT twice as strong - it is all the same the only difference is "TIME"....so doing the other side with 40 Volume - makes it so both sides are at the same lightness at the same time - it was perfect !

This was also too close, and I took a DRY Q-Tip and wiped this one off on the fold....so it wouldn't leak. I used a bigger brush and had a harder time!

Again, see how thin the hair is for the slice? Remember that, thinness is perfectness in SLICES

Another slice to be made. . as my trip up the side of the head continues. Make my partings clean and straight its important

Another Slice of light . . .

Applying the bleach and 20 Volume . . . . .

Closing the 3 foils up and continue on . . .

As you go up the side - - see how the width of the slice narrows? ? The last one is not even 1 inch wide!

Refresh the bleach midway up by taking a small squirt of 20 Volume and mixing it in to the mixture

Be sure you keep the angle of each foil correct so that your foils sit like this and end up over

the eyeball, if your foils end up any other direction at all then something is wrong. Be sure to check 

Now, remember do this in a warm room

>> When the foils are done and that is so individual, you will have to determine "how long" yourselves.

>> Take the foils out, and rinse completely untill all traces of the bleach are gone....

>> Lightly shampoo with SLS-Free Shampoo -- Rinse -- towel dry hair....The method of

>> Apply an equalizer ( we have a new one on the way!) let set on hair for 5-50 minutes 

>> Rinse & apply Detangler or THRIVEN or whatever your regimen is

I always apply THRIVEN after using Bleach, it is the single best conditioner and after-treatment in addition to our new Equalizer coming out. You never know you colored your hair when you follow up with THRIVEN.

*** Then Blow Dry

Well, this is your results . . . after 6 Foils - - - Creme Lightener + 20 Volume and 40 Volume and is called Slices of Light or BABY-LIGHTS KIT.  I wanted you to see how to use foils that was easy and works with straight hair. This is not how you should apply foils with curly hair....the pattern would be wrong.

You can change it , I just wanted to point out what I was doing. See how its brown next to my face then - - next to that - - there is a blond slice? I think it looks too fake to have the blond right on the face.

In my opinion ( remember this is just me) I don't like the stripey look, but if I was to blend the colors you would not see how the color in the foils came out. Now if you used various colors, and a couple more foils you would have the colors of someone named "ANNISTON" !
Here is the side I wanted you to see the "6" Slices . . . see the tiny one - - in the back which is why you do not need to do the back of your hair, it is taken care of with the front parting - - how perfect is that? ?!?
I did the same thing they do in all the big magazines. . . I did the blow dry all cool when I had the hair color I liked!
"Isn't it weird and cool all at the same time how much difference I made with just 6 foils! Its not highlights and KILLER CHEMIST says she is not exactly fond of this technique ( using just 1 color) either but I think it rocks . . ."

that's the good part about taste - - we all have it and its all 'different"

one can use multiple colors - -

FINAL VIEW of the look is pretty gorgeous. . . what do you think?

The 6 Foil Transition using Slices of Lights

Remember a BlowDry can change things more than a color, more than a shampoo 

Battle of the Highlift Blond VERSUS Bleach - Photo Demo: See For Yourself

This an old post from 2008 and I wanted to show you that at one time there existed a highlift that could PROPERLY Lift hair to blonde with ZERO brass from a Level 5-6 ......  which the dollhead came with...... 

I found these old photos and I'm just so very upset that 8 years ago we had a highlift blonde that lifted hair from a Level 5-6 to a Level 11 - virtually
BRASS-FREE

This was a demo displaying how to apply these 

Finally I have the end of the TRIXIE transformation. The battle between the highlift blonds and bleach and how far a highlift blond can really go . I'm sorry my program for writing my posts is screwed up so todays post is going to be very half-assed until I can figure out how to fix it. . .

Proceeding with Trixie to the front quadrants. . . on the right side as you see here I applied Oil Bleach and 20Volume - starting at the bottom of the quadrant and going up in 1/2 inch partings, moving as quickly but as carefully as you can.
Then on the left side of her hair : I used Renbow 100A + White Genie + 40 Volume
the White Genie being the key to this high level of lift. As you will see it equalled the lift of bleach!
Always - Always use INTENSIVE ( changed from IN DEPTH to our INTENSIVE in 2010!) after every single color procedure as you color. . . .Locks in color and equlizes the pH (which locks in color l

On the left BACK quadrant I have used Renbow 100A + 40 Volume = NO White Genie was used. As you can see the result is about a 8NG, which to some is a perfectly fine level to reach, and it does depend on your goals . . . but in this case we were headed towards a level 10 and the result with a High Lift Blonde and 40 Volume does not get there - not on a Level 4-5 Base.

See the result?

Bleach VERSUS High lift and White Genie produces about the same result . . .

as you can now see with your own eyes. The left back quadrant also shows that a straight HIGH LIFT Blond can only lift SO FAR . . . as you can see it gets to about a Level 8 and that's it!

Here I have applied the TONERS on both sides.

Remember it is called a BLEACH and TONE,

ALWAYS - ALWAYS - tone your hair. The best? Color Touch..

 YES - apply INTENSIVE again . . . . you will thank me in the end.

 






HERE we













GO........TRIXIE finished . . .Wasn't that hard . . . or that bad . . . do you think?

     

 See the back left quadrant, is the only one that didn't turn out light enough - although you can't really tell in these photos. . .

Finished TRIXIE
So, what do you think>? excuse the make-up my girlfriends daughter went nuts with markers! ! !  she thought it was beautiful ! ! ! 

What questions do you have?

I mean if you are totally opposed to bleach you can now see that it can be equaled WITH A HAIR COLOR THAT WAS MADE FOR 20 YEARS.
It was first made in Italy and then the USA invited him over here and he made it in Pennsylvania or one of those little states in that area.....until he sold the company to Paul Mitchell......... the chemists were so upset at how Mitchell ran the company {cut their salary} they took the secret to the formula and moved to another company I was told. 

Somewhere out there is a couple of cosmetic chemists with gold in their phones/laptops ! ! ! !

I mean ONLY by using a High-lift Blonde by Renbow --- we could achieve a beautiful brass-free blonde on a doll head no less - (they are harder to lift than regular human hair on a human body)

So in 2008 there was a highlift that lightened Level 5-6 hair color - - - - to a beautiful blonde color color.

......I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY THAT CANNOT BE DUPLICATED TODAY? ? ? ? ? ? ?

I still own A COUPLE TUBES OF THAT COLOR, 
IF ANYONE FROM ANY HAIR COLOR COMPANY IS WILLING TO TAKE THIS TASK ON .........

PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME - LETS GET THIS DONE,
 WHOMEVER TAKES THIS ON  . . . .
You will be a very rich entrepreneur afterwards - just ask any hair colorist. 

........DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY WOMEN 

.........................IN THIS COUNTRY 

..............ASK FOR THIS VERY THING 

........EVERY SINGLE DAY 

...OF 

..........EVERY SINGLE MONTH 

...............OF 

.......................EVERY SINGLE YEAR ? ? ?

10's of Thousands. . . .

If I was well I would take this on . . . 

So I challenge someone  - - -
anywhere 

who is looking for a smart investment

email: Killerstrasnds.info@gmail.com

KC
Killer Chemist