Reachin for Bleachin' - Why Is My Hair Yellow & Not Beige-Blonde ??

How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"like you see in this photo - everyone can achieve this.You MUST use an oil bleach to protect the hair from damage though!

Lighteners / Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. I try to explain hair color education in as many ways as I can possibly think of to help everyone understand the theory behind it.

 I like you to understand so it helps you learn how to get yourself out of problem situations. I listen to how distraught everyone is and it really breaks my heart, so the more I teach the more I want you to do your part and READ ! ! 

In order for me to explain what "blonde hair" IS.... I need you to think of hair strands as tubes..... Picture color in tubes, and lets just say the tubes are hair strands.....those hair strands (or tubes are filled up with hair color or pigment that IS your hair naturally, or if its  colored then you have put in there by applying some of your old hair color applications....

 Make sense so far?

Then here comes the Tint brush with the lightener and developer mixed with it to be applied to those tubes....or hair strands.....as soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, they call permanent hair color of ANY type ....OXIDATIVE hair coloring.....because of that process that takes place at just that moment.... and it is permanent.......because it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a very light blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color and it is referred to as Bleach. Bleach means lighten if you look the word up up in the dictionary....it does not mean all the terrible things everyone has conjured up in your minds. The one and only reason you have terrible things conjured up is beCAUSE some damn hairstylist has applied bleach and then done what you are not supposed to do she OVERLAPS it the next time she gives you a re-touch..... 

...........and having lightened hair means you are NOT supposed to lighten it on top of the already lightened part AGAIN ! ! ! You are only supposed to lighten the dark part...... and THAT is what gives you a bad feeling about Bleach. Its the Hair Stylist who applied it incorrectly. It actually is thought of as our most useful and loved tool by all top colorists. It just needs a person properly educated to use it. All you need to know is in our Blog, just put the words "blond, bleach, lightener" in the SEARCH Bar and you will learn everything you've always wanted to know!


Otherwise bleach is the single most useful and most handy product in a Colorists arsenal for changing hair color - PERIOD !

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color called HIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.
Something I have found not to be true.....
 

...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....

#1) High lift Blonde's ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.

or

#2) Bleach or Lightener : In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS, which in common terms is bleaching!

The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has ( how light or dark)
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed
- the texture of the hair
- the porosity of the hair.....etc....

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....

As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...

it means whatever lightener has been used  has not been left on long enough....

Most people do not understand that....I think I have 20 questions alone just today (1/26/2016 )  about why their hair is yellow and what should they do about it.....

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.

It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.
If you have dark brown hair the color will go from brown to orange quickly.
BUT, then going from orange to Pale yellow will take multiple applications.....that is the only way to achieve properly lightened hair.

This chart show the levels

 But the answer to those with gold hair and why is it  yellow or gold? 
9 times out of 10, the hair stylist PANIC - stricken ....took the bleach off....then frantically tried to cover it up with a toner....so for a couple days you have"OK" hair color ( I use that term VERY VERY LOOSELY ! ! ! !)
Then you shampoo it a 3rd or 4th time and you think YOU did something wrong when all along it was a badly trained hair stylist. 

From my point of view 2 out of 10 Hair Stylists know how to color correctly. I worked in 2 very cool Salons in Malibu. In both of them they had over 20 hair stylists but in each there was me and 1 other person I would trust to color my hair and that is the average in LA. where we have the top school in the world. ! ! !

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands. One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000 HEADS of hair I had colored 1 year before I was diagnosed.
 Here is a chart I made so you can see what I am talking about......
It shows the color of hair and the arrows indicate each application of bleach to the hair!

I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long. 
Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see on the street are done at home? 
The main problem all of you who have contacted me today is you need another application of OIL LIGHTENER>>>> which we sell kits AND i KEEP THE PRICE DOWN BECAUSE OF ALL THE PEOPLE i HEAR THAT NEED THEM......

WHEN YOU ONLY  bleach the hair once.....look at the chart above.... the color leaves the hair REALLY REALLY fast on the first APPLICATION as you can see it dips almost 3 full levels.....THEN, it gets stuck and that is where the majority of America gets stuck .... see where the arrow is after application #1 its on 5. ORANGE!!!.....some of you get lucky and it passes orange and lands on what we call BLORANGE... the chart calls it orange/Gold....I don't care what you call it.......
its hideous.
The only way to get out of this mess is to keep lightening the hair. 
I promise you.
What keeps people in these horrific golds & BRASS is FEAR from using  the lightener again. But when I lighten hair I can't wait to use the next application because the next application will get the hair color OUT of this crappie color.

Big shot Colorist's trick?

> use our OIL BLEACH Kit  !

> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.

> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.

Sometimes that will be the best answer.

MY usual protocol : I apply our Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for last 45-50 minutes.

RINSE

Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.

Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.

Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!

It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.

That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.

It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....

I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base this was 15 years ago so very early on tin the world.

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have
 I thought I would be doing hair forever I never knew something like this woud take me down....I always thought I'll take photos the next time......I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...

as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .

had I not gotten sick.
Doing hair is working with people and talking to people so sitting working with and ON computers was the absolute very last thing I thought I would have to do in my life......

here is one guy I had some shots of

- lousy photos -

-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...

see what color a bleach should be?

WHITE!

He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....

for PROM at MALIBU HIGH - -

- - of course!

It kicked ass


I hope you get the idea with what the problem is when you have brass gold or orange in your hair. Invest in our OIL bleach kit, you will be so glad you did, it doesn't damage the hair at all!

Remember once you have bleached white hair using BOOST & BURST can be one of life's better pleasures. 

Bleach for the Stars - Part 1 - Oil Bleach DEMO Application

The Quest For Platinum Continues....

Now you have everything you need and its time to begin. First you are going to want to read and re-read the directions to mixing the oil bleach...its super important to mix it correctly and the way the ingredients go together is different from anything you have mixed together in the hair color world. So again...READ & FOLLOW exactly.

**Add > Plastic Applicator Bottle > to your Equipment list


The consistency of Oil bleach is more liquid-y than any other, so its a little trickier to use and a lot messier ...BUT...just keep in your head "this will make my hair healthier - when it is all said and done".


TRY hard to find a friend or pal of some sort to help you apply this, the back is going to be tricky if you are doing it to yourself, it can be done with mirrors...but be sure to use them if your are doing it to yourself.

Here we go! Read through the entire directions first. then get prepared and if needed read through again.

1. Divide DRY hair into four sections (see illustration 12-20)



2. Prepare cotton strips, tear cotton rope into 7-8" strips (have about 40-50 ready) depends on thickness & length



3. Apply protective cream around the hairline and over the ears.



4. Put on protective gloves (  'small' Latex come with the Oil bleach kit - which makes it easy to apply - they are surgeon gloves which I like the best as you can feel the hair as you work)



5. Prepare the Oil Bleach in bowl, almost always I will mix 2 batches of oil bleach, if you have hair any longer than chin level is a good measure, mix with tint brush and use immediately to prevent deterioration. One of the bigger secrets of bleach is that the majority of its "punch" or "power" takes place all in the first 55 minutes. It has about 20% of its power left after that, but that would mean leaving the bleach on for 2-3 hours to get what you need out of it. Therefore the trick is.... to complete this entire regimen, and if and when "2" APPLICATIONS of BLEACH are necessary( see #11), you take this application off and reapply a brand new one. After years of doing these, you cut time off the process by doing it this way. Promise!
6.  
7.  



8. Begin in the Back on one side..................... Have comb, tint brush, cotton strips and lightener set-up....................... I have never done this procedure to myself, always to clients. I have always used a tint brush and bowl. But in reviewing how others accomplish this process, some put the mixture in an applicator plastic bottle. As a rule I do not recommend these bottles, BUT...if you are trying to do this to yourself ( a very brave endeavor I might add!) , I am thinking the applicator bottle might be easier especially for the back. Up to you...purchase the applicator bottle if you decide to... they have them at Sally's. Now be completely ready to go without having one thing interrupt you, this is a time consuming process and needs to be applied as FAST AS YOU POSSIBLY can there is absolutely NO room for breaks.
9.  
   

 

 ILLUSTRATION 12-20(above)

 

1. Begin the application on the bottom of one side you are NOT putting it on the roots, you are applying from 1/2" off the scalp and extend the lightener up to, but not through the porous ends.Use 1/4" partings to apply the lightener, applying to the top and underside of the subsection in quick movements. Why? The heat from the head speeds up the processing on the first 1/2": therefore that is the last area you apply to. 
2.  
3.  



4. Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parts to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair ( photo 16-51). So you will be 1st applying the bleach 1/2" off the scalp laying the cotton down on the roots to keep the bleach from running down on the roots....on both back sections and then the front sections, moving as quickly as possible. (FAST)





5. Continue to apply lightener, double checking application adding more if necessary. Do NOT COMB THRU the hair. Make sure all hair is covered and moist, with oil bleach that is hardly a problem....
7. 
8.  
9. Now if you have not done a strand test...so that you know how long it takes YOUR hair to get as light as you desire. You will have to keep checking it. To check lightening level use a damp towel and a water spray bottle to Blot do NOT rub -- the strand to look at the color. When its about 15 minutes from being ready...is what you are looking for. I am not sure how to teach you this trick....it comes from experience....and one way around experimenting on your own head if you are hesitant is to order a "Doll Head" they make them with real human hair that are made to color.

The cotton is used to keep the lightener OFF of the 1st inch of the hair, it is important to do that to prevent what they call "hot roots''. Which is where the roots end up lighter than the rest of the hair. 

The heat of the head warms the lightener which makes it lighten faster than the rest of the head ....therefore the lightener is kept OFF the scalp until the very last 30-35 minutes.

There is the first half of the procedure .....the second half comes tomorrow...........

Oil Bleach Versus Powder Lightener: Advantages & Disadvantages of Each

I have spoken highly of the praises of Oil Bleach for "on-the-scalp" applications as opposed to "off-the-scalp" applications which it is no good for.

 First of all what's the difference in application? One is applied right on that skin of the scalp and the other is used (off the scalp) in foils and various "off" the scalp applications.  

Highlights or Foil work:

 














After slices it will look like this:

   


 After highlights it will look like this:

Above is the result of: SLICES

See how in the photo to the right there are some variations in color just not distinct ones as in the photo to the left?


Off-the scalp applications include: 
Highlights, Slices, Balayage, Tips, Halo, Veil, Splash Lights, Ombre and all the zillion other names/techniques that will pop-up in the next year or two. The technique "OMBRE" has had the longest and most spectacular impact on both hair & pop culture I have ever seen. So much so, it flip flopped over into the world of fashion. I have a pair of silky pants that blend from white to pale apricot to orange and I still wear them ! Now THAT is a hair trend! 

Highlights the trend prior to Ombre that made the biggest impact never left the world of hair, and to be honest there is not really much I can say about it that I like or liked. We learned a different technique at Sassoon called slices that I feel looks better(more natural) than highlights as you can see above. Although, I must admit there are some good advantages to highlights, just not the ones many of you think you will receive .... so I shouldn't be so quick to judge. I take that back !

Powder lightener consists of a powder-like substance usually blue or violet which is mixed with Developer / peroxide, so it is a fairly dry liquid (once mixed) which "stays in place" is the biggest advantage. It doesn't run and its not liquidy so it is easy to paint on with a tint brush. Another trick of this application is that all lighteners expand, so always apply in a smaller area than you want the action to take place. This is how the biggest disadvantage of lightener takes place.......overlapping. When you overlap last months application with this months, you create breakage or weakness, so I don't like to just say USE LIGHTENER everyone..I'm just not that kind of educator. It takes skill and knowledge....I would recommend reading every post I have written on the subject in this Blog!

 


OMBRE ...... REVERSE OMBRE

 This is what powder lightener looks like:

The looks you will gain from powder lightener and foils is completely different in the outcome.What's the difference and why should one use one over the other is what you can see above I hope.

The consistency of Oil Bleach is . . . shall we say . . . "very liquid".  Its a lipid based lightener + plus + a unique Oil (we use an unscented Gleam) made-up of oils that work the best with hair strands + creme Violet developer + a tiny bit of violet/blue toner powder. So its a very liquid-y creamy consistency (with lots of violet toned ingredients to counteract any brass that may want to come thru!) which makes it easy to work with while spreading it over a wide area (the entire scalp - or just the base on Re-touches).   All the liquid ingredients make it a bit runny...but don't get worried about that . . the consistency is what brings you the moisture, the lipids and all the conditioners. With all good things, there are a few drawbacks you must always weigh the consequences in the entire field of hair color! I find it very easy to work with as do all of our customers after the first go-around. The tremendous advantage is all those lipids, remember how much I talk about the advantages of lipids - fats - oils . . all hugely advantageous to the hair strands on your head. Lipids are the single best conditioner you can use on a hair for condition. This is what Oil Bleach will look like on your head once it is all applied:

 

 Here is the look afterward:

Think Gwen Stefani, Marily Monroe ( who first made this popular btw) and Eminem....

Its not just words, lipids truly work. The hair is made-up of lipids, so when returned they make a complete difference in the condition of the hair. Unlike keratin, I have never found replacing keratin in the hair to be repairing.  If the Oil Lightener didn't work so well I promise you I would have never gone to all the trouble of using it all these years - as a busy Colorist speed is the main goal, I just so happened to plug in QUALITY to my speedy applications, its the only way a Colorist becomes a 'good' Colorist - especially in LA with so much competition.

I've said many times before - - there are "GOOD" alcohols and there are "BAD" alcohols...
Our Oil Bleach Kit uses the 'good' alcohols which is why I go to all the trouble of making it for you. Fatty alcohols are the good alcohols and are derived from natural vegetable oils, denatured (liquid) alcohols are the 'bad' alcohols. Fatty alcohols are ingredients that I used because of their awesome conditioning benefits. When used in hair conditioners (or our Oil bleach) they deposit on the surface of the hair's cuticle helping with moisture, conditioning & Lipid content of the hair strand ... while bleaching the hair at the same time - its perfect. 
The lipid content gives you shine, luster & basically healthy looking hair. So, to me - - - A pure and simple GOLD MINE!

When purchasing products look for these names these are a couple names of "good" alcohols: 

• cetyl alcohol
• stearyl alcohol

  They are effective in conditioners and shampoos alike they provide hair with improved wet combing and give it a smooth feel on drying. When hair is smooth - - it will shine.

So with a little inside knowledge as to how, what & why an oil bleach works versus a powder I hope many of you will look into the processes a little further - we recently had a woman in the group try it and she was over-the-moon with her results.

Foil work and powder lightener also has its advantages, it just completely depends on the look you aspire to.  So there isn't a better choice from one to another........there is a "what-look-do-you-want-in-the-end" selection you would need to consider first. 

I hope that explains the two different lighteners.

Check Out : How to Go From Level 7,8,9 to Platinum AT HOME & Pretty Easily !

Lots of you want to make this transition and wonder what the best way to accomplish it at home is. Here is a Demo of another Stylists plan to achieve it and below some of my commentary as to what I feel is the best plan for Crib Colorists to do .... to accomplish the same look.

A Demo On What To Ask For ,
 From a Salon to Get The Result on right side...:

x

Remember there is a LOT to be said for a Great Blow-Dry and some GLEAM

 Before I begin remember something very important about photo stories like this...the photo on the right has her with clean hair that has Gleam or some oil or some serum on it and a 40-minute Blow-Dry done to it. So, I hate when people use such drastic photos when a great Blow Dry can solve many issues. 
But.. a-n-y-w-a-y-
   

The email sent me, asked me if this was the only way for this to be accomplished because her hair looks so beautiful and exactly as she wants hers but knows she cannot afford the cost. As you can see by these head sheets the Stylist is putting hundreds of highlights in. Each one of those little lines is a highlight parting. I only put up half the head sheets -- which are what we use in hair academy to describe which process goes 'where', which direction the part should: go, stop & start. Most importantly: what the Color formula's are ...... and where they each should go. All of that can be wrapped up in that one little tiny piece of paper called a Head-sheet with a silly looking mannequin head......... pencil drawn on! That is a good idea for another Post....explaining Head Sheets! Will do!

It worries me when I see something like this out in the public....because what it does is make you think if you buy a gigantic tub of bleach and apply it to your hair it will look like this and that is so far from the truth my head is steaming! They want you to screw up your hair so that you have to head to the Salon to get it fixed...
Its a completely regular thing for Salons, in Malibu they were referred to as a B.C.D. so it could be talked about without the clients knowing the lingo. They would say .....
 "Uh-Oh !, "Here comes another B-C-D
B - Boxed
C - Color
D - Disaster


Now, as far as reaching the color on the right at home.
Unless you have a family member that is very talented in hair color, putting foils in using that method is going to be impossible, pretty much. Besides if that look on the right is your goal I truly don't feel you need to do foils. I hate to admit this, yet I know I didn't do it....but Stylists will push you to get foils BECAUSE.........it is the costliest procedure. I've just heard so many Stylists around me pushing people to that solution, when a quicker, better procedure will work. Personally, I would rather get this client - 'done' and 'gone' and on her merry way....then I can start on the next person. But Stylists who don't have a lot of clients waiting will - many times - suggest that a whole head full of foils is the way to go. Don't list to it. Stand up for yourself. Tell them you only want color on the top half. .. . . . or you want an Oil Bleach applied. 

To achieve that above look, there is NO variation of color - it is a solid Level 12 hair. Period. You see that right? Well, to achieve an all over platinum look the most convenient, easiest and most appropriate method of getting there? Oil Bleach. We make a Kit which has 2 applications in it and if you are dark, you may need 2 or 3 for the lengths which you do first, which is just like applying color..........no foils. We have a DEMO on this Blog that shows you the proper method of applying the Oil Bleach Kit. So this post is not how to do it but THAT YOU CAN DO IT AT HOME WITH directions which we have on here.

Plus we have the Kit you need to achieve the above look and the procedure's proper name is "Bleach and Tone". Its never just Bleach...
You must always TONE a blond - especially right after lightening.
I will give you my top 3 Toners for "post" lightening.

#1.) Wella Color Touch 10/6 Violet - The violet based colors, help fight any brass leftover
#2.)  Matrix GWEN Toner - SPV - Sheer Pastel violet - a beauty
#3.) Schwartzkopf Igora - 9.5-49 NUDE - This is a bit warmer but also gorge

Here is what the Oil Bleach Kit looks like and directions are here, spend the Holidays discovering a new hobby. I vote we make Home Hair Coloring a hobby. Corporations won't want this, but we do ! !

High-Lift Blonde Versus Bleach . . . Which Is Healthier For The Hair

............. is one of the #1 asked question of going Blonde. The decision for each of your hair should be simple. If there is brass of any sort after using Level 12 with double 40 Volume. Then you should use Cream lightener, If its beautiful after Level 10,11 or 12. Then that should be your choice

Almost always you get 2 different colors from the 2 procedures on the same hair....one person doesn't like the color she gets from the high-lift, but is very concerned about the health of her hair.
Here's what I have experienced:
Certain Level 7''s can achieve a gorgeous blonde with Level 11 or 12 or Level 12 with a booster...
Certain Level 7's cannot - it still has brass in it so you end up constantly applying Toners and purple shampoos / conditioners - - the more you do shit like that - it DOES take its toll on your hair.
The goal is to achieve the lightest blonde so you don't have to use Toners or anything else so that its a color that is beautiful and you can live with it.
If you can achieve that with a Level 12 & double 40V............then that should always be your first choice.

On the same subject, if you use bleach, it should be cream bleach - NEVER POWDER....
and Gleam, Intensive should be used & THRIVEN should always be left in overnight. ...after the application of either, if you take the time to do it right, then you will not have damage.

Aveda makes one of the worst colors and lighteners on planet earth, so I would stay away from that line completely ever again. Never use powder lightener. That's what cream lightener is made for, why don't people use it more???
Its more expensive.
but as a Crib colorist you are only doing your own hair so it shouldn't be that bad
The most important part of blonding are the other steps you do:

• always begin with a Malibu2000 Color Prep package
• apply Gleam to hair then
• use cream or oil bleach if using bleach
  
• use Schwarzkopf 12.19 with Double 40Volume violet developer
• I have had some people get remarkable results from Level 10/69 Illumina, always worth a shot
• the most important step is following the color up with INTENSIVE to bring the pH back to normal as fast as possible - this step helps with shine, stabilizes the hair, locks in the color.....keeps hair healthy.
• Thriven over-night

If you do this every time with 1 -2 Thriven treatments in between you should have

Application For Oil-Bleach Application ( or how to get Gwen Stefani color & condition)

The usual method of application for a virgin Bleach-Out is to First....apply 1/2 inch off the scalp thru to the nearly the ends...(depending on the condition of them). Then when the mid-shaft is nearly  the desired stage of lightening, then apply to the scalp. I hear story after story of people doing this backwards and then they cannot figure out why they have "HOT ROOTS"....or a Base that is lighter than the lengths. 

There is another method, but I am not as fond of it.....but I will tell you anyway.  The point is, the heat from the body speeds up the processing of the lightener or Color. So applying it to the scalp first will always get you (the over-used term) "Hot Roots". 

LENGTHS FIRST - REMEMBER THAT

There is no more meticulous application than that for Oil Scalp Bleach....The rewards for PRECISION are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take very fine sections, so fine you can see through them. 

With retouches you want NO OVER-LAPPING of course.....and its easier to avoid overlapping if you just lay a line of bleach 1/2'' - 3/4''off scalp. Then lay the next section against it, rather than smearing it in with your thumb.

If you are lifting past yellow, be patient, ...GOLD is always the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow.

Now when you go to rinse this out you must be super super gentle and thorough. Using Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses bleach. I always do the most gentle light shampoo even with Oil bleach you want to be gentle to the scalp and hair....followed by an acid rinse which is our wonder product INTENSIVE. If you haven't tried it you must.

Then you Tone the hair and we have about 30 Gorgeous Toners.

Platinum Power : Hair Color Your Salon Would be Furious You Knew About

                                                                                                                                         While many people will head to the Salon for Platinum Hair 
                                       - there is no application as safe

 
as an Oil Bleach Kit - and no where else to get one but here. Killerstrands is the one and only source for Oil Lightening (bleach) Kits as both Redken and Wella discontinued them in the same month about 2 years ago. I am positive neither company knew of the others move as they are fierce competitors, regardless, after months of work in my home lab I mastered an even more conditioning formula by using Cream Lightener as my base. There are numerous Posts regarding the application of the entire process so for those of you new to Killerstrands here is a link to them:
                   Road to Platinum Hair    

 Remember, the number one restriction to proceeding with this procedure? If your hair is damaged, please do not proceed. Purchase Gleam and Thriven....using the Secret Supplement & these 2 products will bring most peoples hair back in about 60-90 days. But, you must be vigilant.

 

 Many are choosing the Color-brick Road to Platinum Hair lately and to be honest I can hear the delight . . . in your words . . .as more questions come in. I know from performing this application hundreds of times on clients - - no hair color change - - is nearly as liberating. People float out of the Salon after becoming platinum for the first time in life. But, you may now acquire this look at home with our super conditioning Kit & after you read all the posts !

 

 I can see from a couple comments, I need to explain a couple facets of the process:
"How many Applications should be applied" 
"in what specific parts of the hair should you apply"
and the cutest question of all
" What is Oil Bleach?"

If you are beginning with Virgin haircolor, your rules are a lot easier than everyone else that walks the planet ... be sure to read those directions precisely.

What is ''Oil Bleach'' or as it should be referred to: "Oil-Lightener" ? 

Oil Bleach was developed back in the days of Marilyn Monroe. They had figured out how to Super Lighten hair, they were ecstatic with that. But before they had learned how to apply it properly they decided they need to add some sort of moisturizer to it. After a long series of tests / testing they chemists figured out if they added oil to the mixture of powder lightener and developer the condition of the hair was not so damaged. Hair is strong but if certain rules and guidelines are not followed then the damage can be breakage and no one wants that. Please do not proceed without reading every single Post I have written, a few times. When you do, you will have a handle on it and it will result in the most fun hair color you have ever sported.  What I have done with our Kits ( just to add one more precautionary step for all you beginners) is to add Cream Bleach instead of powder which I highly advise you never use anything 'but' ! 

 So to summarize: Oil Bleach is a Kit in which you mix specific Lightening Cream ( and ours even comes in Violet/blue tint to battle that brass)  with Oil and developer in order to achieve super blond hair - usually referred to as Platinum- ala Marilyn Monroe or Gwen Stefani.

If you are darker than a Level 7-8 you will need more than 1 application to achieve platinum hair. This has been misunderstood by a few of you. This is one of the reasons we put 2 applications in one of the Oil bleach Kits. If you are a Level 2-3-4 you most likely will need at least 4 separate applications. Remember if your hair has not reached the color of frozen butter, your platinum won't be platinum. I'm finding many of you apply only once or twice and can't figure out why the toner won't get rid of the brass. ....  You cannot Tone hair that is too dark. It simply will not work. You MUST get the hair light enough before the Toners will work. Think about coloring a brown marks a lot on a white piece of paper.....then what would happen if you were to color a violet maker on top of it ?? Nothing the base brown color is too dark.....same theory. As long as you do not begin this


Next: when applying the lightener the very first time to dark hair you should ALWAYS :
>apply to the lengths FIRST & ONLY. 
Now, as you begin in the back/quarter on the bottom : you should begin applying to 1"+ from the scalp  - down the lengths to about an inch from the ends.  This is very very important for the health of the hair. Why? Why do you not apply directly to the scalp at first? If you do, the heat from the head.... speeds the action of the bleach up, and makes the roots (or base) lighter than the rest of the hair. (some may refer to this as 'hot' roots - which can happen in this situation if you do not follow the proper method. Remember the goal at all times is to have the lightened hair <> all the same tone as you go down the lengths of the hair. If you don't, you will have 'bands' of various tones of blonds as you go down the hair. It is so easy to prevent by following the following -- further directions...

After you get the lengths of the hair 1 Level darker than your goal .......you apply the next and last application to the lengths, including the roots/lengths and ends. So, the very first application you make with the Oil bleach is what?Apply from 1inch off the scalp til 1 inch from the ends, I use to call it the hot-dog application when I would teach it to my assistants !

Even curly hair can be platinum when Oil bleach is used.