The Color Wheel is a World Of Hair Color Solutions!

A lot of you have continued to have problems . . . . .understanding and conquering your problems with DURP. Which is why I am going to bring you another Bloggers's interpretation of the subject, maybe hearing it from a different POV it will help. Please ask questions at the end if you still don't understand - 

NO QUESTION IS A BAD QUESTION . . . please ask them in the group that is what it is there for!

World of Color

The Color Wheel  

                       

The color wheel, sometimes called the color star or circle,is an important tool used to manipulate color. (we have a hair related Color Wheel that you can purchase for a reasonable price )... As the subtractive color model is being used here, the primary colors are cyan, magenta and yellow.....or Blue-Red & Yellow. However, as pure cyan and magenta are difficult to achieve, the nearest colors, blue and red, are used. Most artists adopt this color palette, with red, yellow and blue as the primary colors.By combining these primary colors, the secondary colors become green (blue + yellow), orange (red + yellow) and violet (red + blue). 

These can be arranged in a six-segment circle to form the color wheel .......see the image  -----When  exactly the same intensity of color is combined from the opposite side in the color wheel, they cancel each other out. Different strengths of color intensity will have a more subtle effect. So as you see in this graphic the purple and yellow are moving to the middle - where it is WHITE or they have cancelled each other OUT !   For example, adding violet to a predominantly yellow tone creates a mix of color that

absorbs the yellow wave-length of the light spectrum. 

This is particularly useful to the hairdresser and is often referred to as a complementary color.
 indicated on the left (green, blue, violet) are referred to as secondary colors ors on the right   (yellow, orange, red) are called 
The Color Wheel in Modern Hairdressing
The color wheel has evolved with modern hairdressing practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.
fashion colors. The latter are brighter, glossier and more popular in today's fashions. So far, neutral colours have not been discussed. These include all the tones that are considered natural hair colours. Natural hair colour is a mix of chromatic colour (pure colours found within the colour wheel) and achromatic colour (black, white and the resulting grey tones). Within the colour wheel model neutral colours theoretically exist at the centre of the wheel.

The Color Wheel in Modern Hair Coloring

The color wheel has evolved with modern hair styling practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.

 These are more in keeping with the actual result of adding, for example, a blue tone to the hair.
The result in this case would be a toned-down matt finish, not bright blue hair! 

Yellow = Gold
Orange = Copper
Red/Purple = Violet
Blue/Olive/Green = Matt


So what Sarah and I are trying to do is.........to get you all the base colors of the hair color lines we carry because if you can find a color or Toner with the OPPOSITE color of the one that is giving you the hard time.....like a Blue (or Cyan) Base for a Blorange tone, you would have your solution to the recently vey famous BLORANGE problems many of you are having. I am very excited with all the new Schwartzkopf Hair Colors we have and are acquiring in the near future.

Won't that be nice ?

Check out these New hair colors AND these Highlift Blondes PLUS  the E-O is a Blond Booster which you can add to the highlift for 1 additional Level of Lift of the hair  !

Be sure to join our Group so you may begin learning how to care for your own hair's health and hair's color.........

We have a whole new section added to the store regarding the new BLONDES from them. 
 This is the first of some new unique Hair Colors and I have used them personally and am thoroughly impressed 

Schwartzkopf's colors are completely and utterly 

TO  DIE  FOR  .  .  .  .

Canceling Unwanted Tones in Hair & IN CONCLUSION

I know all these color wheels and colors seem silly to most of you ...there is a purpose.

There is an EXCELLENT reason for busting out the crayons and coloring again....

Hands down .....One of the most asked questions here on Killerstrands is:

HOW DO I GET RID OF THE "_______" tones in my hair......the 2 words that go in the blank are 'Brassy' and "yellow"

Which I have answered many many times.... and promise to still answer many MORE times...

I just thought it might be good to teach you to fish rather than to fish for you.....

Using these Color wheels can help you answer that problem every single time....so many hair stylists just don't understand this simple simple technique. I am hopeful that many of you will begin tosee the light at the end of the tunnel.... let me know if you are

If you have brassy or yellow tones in the hair........where do you find the solution?

Remember . . . a complementary color or the OPPOSITE color on the wheel NEUTRALIZES the tones you find irritating. So what color complements Yellow???? ...............Purple or Violet - - - makes no diffference which name you choose whichever you prefer

Some people LOVE Gold and yellow in their hair...as far as I'm concerned its the USA and anyone can have whatever tone they want. I am just here to teach you

"HOW" to get the tone you want.....and get rid of the tones you dont want.

That way you WILL have the beautiful hair everyone desires.

CONCLUSION

The Color Wheel is simple.

Remember the primaries.

Knowing these, you can name the secondaries.

Visualise these colors arranged on a circle.

Half the circle is cool;

half is warm.

Colors opposite one another neutralize each other

Cool contrasts- out warm and vice versa

Thats all you need to know

Keep It Simple, Hair Color Rules That Are Simple As Pie

The More You Know The Less You Fear
....use that as your mantra for learning this crap
Wouldn't you LOVE to understand how to color your hair perfectly?
So if you wanted to have blonde hair one month......and brown hair with just a few blonde ribbons a couple months later, you could do it yourself
and it would look like Julia Roberts hair
NOT Britney Spears

Education - Education - Education....and its not that hard. Promise.


Hair Color = As Simple as Addition and Subtraction

The first of many important coloring facts many Cosmetologists have not learned, so puts you ahead of them

<>When you apply Color(Tint) to the hair you are ADDING Color.

Color + Color = MORE Color, so the hair has more pigment.

f the color used is addition only, the hair will often but not always be darker.

<> Deposit Only tints (Semi or Demi Permanent Color) are frequently used to change tonal value without changing the lightness or darkness of the actual color of the hair. This is about the least complicated method of tinting hair as you will not have a "LINE OF REGROWTH" ( line where the new color has changed the old color) The Demi Permanent line I use called Color Touch (by Wella's European division) is probably the single best line of hair color on the planet. If I had to pick one line to use and get rid of the other 15 lines I carry...that would be it - which would surprize many because it is not permanent. This line imparts the most incredible amount of shine and moisturizers though....so it wins hands down as the "condition" of the hair is the most important factor for me.

<> When hair is lightened (no matter how little) you are subtracting pigment (lifting its called).

many think lightening hair is deposting a blonde color to the hair, it is NOT. Which is why every person ends up with varying shades of blondes. What is actually a happening is the colors are being LIFTED out of your hair to create a lighter appearance. If this is confusing to anyone PLEASE point that out. This is a trough concept the first time around for many, I want to be sure you are getting it, especially before we go on....

<> When you use a tube of hair color (Single process hair color) that is lighter than your own virgin hair that Tube of Color is a wonderful little tube of magic...... it performs many little works of wonder when it is mixed with the developer and applied to your hair.

That color performs "2" main chemical actions on your hair at the same time, it both #1: "lifts"(lightens) hair color out of your hair and # 2 "deposits" new color onto the hair. This is the concept that many do not understand. The chemical process performed once you mix that developer with that tube of color is a 2 step affar.....called Lift and Deposit.

<> Another way of saying this: Single-process hair color uses both (-) subtraction to remove pigment and (+) addition to replace or add artificial pigment.

BROWN is the basis of all Hair Color

Complementary colors ( remember what this is- extremely important) turn a brown of some shade. When 2 complementary colors are mixed they create the presence of the 3 primaries in uneven amounts.

For example: Yellow mixed with Violet will make a pale brown....because yellow, the stronger color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from Red & Blue

When you mix yellow with Violet, you achieve a shade of Brown.

Mix opposites on the color wheel always results in a BROWN-ing effect. S I M P L E

these theories work in hair color - mixing house paint - dying your clothes - painting a picture - even frosting a cake....which is why I feel these little theories are worth teaching in high school to kids.

they teach kids the difference between

a teaspoon and a Tablespoon in Home Economics in high school, what's wrong with teaching the basics of COLOR?

EVERYONE will color their hair in the future...I am sure of it.

I'm of the belief that the way hair color is going in the very near future HAIR COLOR will be so rich, so conditioning and so strengthening to the hair that it will be mandatory for a good strong head of hair. MARK MY WORDS ON THAT

If hair color is done correctly even now, (that is a big "IF"), hair will be in better condition once it is done. Mine is and all my clients are... so it is nearly there already.

I cannot say this enough >> This does NOT include the boxed Kits, those are disastrous.

All virgin hair is a shade of Brown....which contains all 3 primaries

Whether hair is dark brown,

or black ( the bluest brown; Levels 1 or 2-4)

Auburn ( the most warm brown, Levels 5-7)

or blonde ( the most yellow or lightest brown, levels 8-10)

the color is an uneven combination of the three primary colors.

Uneven amounts of yellow + red + blue = Brown

a lot of hair Stylists do not understand this.........

Equal amounts of Yellow + Red + Blue = Black/Gray/or Platinum depending on the level

KEEP IT SIMPLE RULES

1.) Lightening the hair is when pigment is subtracted.

Which creates an imbalance of the Primary Colors.

Remember the Color Swatch charts I've showed you with the LEVELS going from top to bottom and then the 'tones' running across the top. Every line of Color chooses the "tones" they think will interest Colorists so they will want to use their line of color. Remember how much 1 Salon spends on this every month ( $5,000. - $20,000. = A LOT!) Therefore, the "tones" or "Series" that are represented are represented by one letter. You learn to figure them out.

For example a few sure shots are: N = Natural A= Ash G= Gold R= Red

2.) Brown is actually an uneven mixture of 3 primaries - red, yellow & blue

3.)Very blonde hair is brown with a dominance of yellow, Red hair is brown with a dominance of red tones & black is the bluest brown.

When you are lightening color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the Underlying or DOMINANT UNDERLYING REMAINING PIGMENT ( DURP) : which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

#1. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair.

#2. The 1st pigment to leave the hair during lightening,  is BLUE....therefore leaving Red & Yellow tones ( brassy)

Because blue is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go quickly into the red zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave.

We will talk about Hair Color throughout the Blog is in the top 5 most important things to learn to be a sucessful AND popular so your clients love you more than their partner!

Neutralizing Hair Color : The Rule & Law of Color

Primary Colors are colors in their purest form

They are the 3 strongest and most influential pigments! Any color on earth can be broken down to yellow, red. or blue...including your hair colors.

The more familiar you are with these basics, the more you will be able to color your own hair, successfully....besides, its fun, useful and who knows....maybe you can color your neighbors hair with your new found knowledge!



Yellow is the lightest primary and is warm in value...its the color Colorists use most..it creates the most highlighted effect & is found in blondes...

RED is the medium bright primary that reflects more light than any other color; therefore, it catches the eye first...it is also the STRONGEST of the warm Primary Colors



Secondary Colors are created when two Primaries

are mixed together, there are 2 secondary colors.

Orange is the strongest WARM secondary color and is made by mixing red & yellow together.

****Note *****
That each Primary Color on the wheel is opposite a secondary color.
These opposites are the true key to success in hair coloration

If colors are opposite each other on the color wheel, they are called COMPLIMENTARY COLORS...What does that mean?

They C O M P L I M E N T one another....
When Yellow is placed next to Purple......both colors look their most VIBRANT..
Same with orange and blue..................Red and green

However when 2 complimentary colors are mixed together they Neutralize ;

neutralizing is the key to being a fantastic colorist

Understanding the Color Wheel is the Backbone of Successful Hair Color

Every talented Hair Colorist fully understands the Color Wheel as well as its off-shoots

 Primary - Secondary - Tertiary color wheels which are just as important

So, Please...
I painted my color wheels...at Sassoon they make you paint them, at the time I thought it was ridiculous. It is one of the best projects one can do as a hair color teacher..... I guarantee you it will make a lot of the theory of hair color make sense to you.....which is not easy to understand.
Lets look at these projects as a stepping stone to the pot of gold: KNOWLEDGE of hair color that is not available anywhere on the planet , especially not to the public.
Lets get this education out there.........one person at a time if we have to.
Sunday will be the instruction of what Color Wheels to color and how to do them....so > Please have your full set of felt pens /crayons or Paints ( the best)...and some thick paper to color on. I know it seems lame, trust me its worth it. It just does not work the same if you just look....you must color the colors to implant the ideas in your brain.
I promise when we are done............ you will say........OH, now I get it.............everyone does

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Bits & Pieces : Learn To Formulate Hair Color

Here are bits and pieces to help with Tuesday's Post and your first HAIR COLOR FORMULATION problem

Try the first Formulation quiz

You are a Level 4

and you desire to be a Level 7

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