Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series

New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics

1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.
2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.
3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.

5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.
6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.
7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.
8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.
9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.

10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.
11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.
12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control.
13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.
14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.
15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.
16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.
17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.

18. Discard all mixed product not used.
19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.
20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.

Killer Chemist

True Words Come From The Trenches

 I love when I receive enthusiastic - educational emails from my Readers, especially ones that do their homework

Thanks,  Lizzy

Hi I would like to order colorissmo 100A, white genie and rencolor toner - moonlight. 

You offer the best highlift color!!!!! Thank you!!!!

When I had a consultation with you in the fall this is what you reccommended for me to use. I had a little scare and was hesitant to try again. Since then I have used redken 10 (at the salon - did not lift at all) with highlights, schwatzkoph 12-1 with color charm white lady toner ( kinda brassy) ( Is what I had at home and appplied to roots only), and matrix high lift with highlights as well(at salon- this was the best of the three). None of these base colors could compare to the great icey tone I achieved from this mixture. You know your stuff.

With Regards,
Lizzy C. 

                                                    

Octo-Colorist : Using 8 Colors is Normal for This Colorist

Octo-mom has too many kids. . . I use too many colors, but that's where the similarities END - completely

I've always felt the goal of my foil work in color was to make each clients hair look as close to a childs as possible.

Someday just look at a 10 or an 8 or even a 12 year olds hair ( if it is Level 7 thru 10) they just have so many tones and so many levels in it, I decided long ago that was to be a goal of mine in foils.

Currently the trend is not for multiple colors in hair, but truthfully it is my one true love as far as Color. There would be many times I would use between 6 & 8 colors in foils using the slices technique... one of the reasons for my quick success I believe. . . . in Malibu no one did that. 

Actually at Sassoon.... no one went to that trouble. . .I just loved the results.

The only hard part about it? 

Mixing the bowls up , 

but at the time I had a couple of great assistants

that loved having projects to do.. 

I'm sure they took that trick to their practice as well.

Being an Intern or assistant in any field

is the single best way to advance

Fire Me Up . . . Passionate Reds in Hair Styles For You

Killer Chemist to all Killer Stranders

Very Sweet of You,

Lyndsay

Highlights Are History & The Reason "Why" in 2 Photo's

Whitney Port from MTV series "The City" demonstrates
My Theory -- Highlights are History

Whitney - Before

highlights on top of highlights on top of. . . . .

many are understanding + seeing it. . . . many are not

These Photo's are of Whitney Port from the MTV series "The City"
{ in case you've been sleeping under a rock for the last year }

A Gorgeous example of the new and CURRENT : Paint Drips

Whitney - AFTER
it helps of course to be drop dead gorgeous

Comments?

Pomade, Pins and Porosity

Porosity means the 'condition' of hair, interested now ?

Hair Porosity is the ability of the hair to retain & absorb moisture, determined by how raised or compact the cuticle layers are. Porosity is commonly referred to as the CONDITION of the hair, which affects a lot more than you think! The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer - when the cuticle layer is damaged that's when you feel your hair and think, "I must deep condition my hair, get a hair cut or a hair color . . . something is just not right."

Hair porosity is classified as:

• resistant : has a tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration. Chemical services performed on resistant hair require a more alkaline solution. A high pH raises the cuticle and permits uniform saturation and processing. . . therefore requiring a longer processing time . Cuticle -- Tight = Hair resistant therefore a Longer processing time.
• normal : is neither resistant nor overly porous. Color services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected. Isn't "normal" wonderful sometimes!
• porous: Has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs color. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require a less alkaline solution than those performed on resistant hair. A lower pH minimizes swelling and helps prevent excessive damage to the hair. Cuticle is lifted which makes the color take quickly AND Fade quickly.

Manufacturers write formulation recommendations with average, normal hair in mind -- that is, medium texture and normal porosity. For very coarse hair, very fine hair, resistant hair, or over-porous hair, adjustments are necessary which is a big chunk and the largest percentage of most of your hair out there . . .another of the points not taken into account with BOXED Color Kits, They don't ask, they don't explain and you can see by this Post it is a very important part of each individuals color formula. I solve this when we go through the HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, making that a better choice than just randomly throwing color on your hair. Its all about education here, that is my goal, I simply hope to get more of you involved.
Both the diameter of the hair strands(texture) and the condition of the cuticle (porosity) significantly affect hair color acceptance.
The Cuticle
Starting from the outside -- in on a hair strand . . .we first encounter the cuticle...which is the tough outer layer of the hair. The cuticle surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage. A strong compact cuticle layer makes for resistant hair, meaning that the hair resists penetration and is difficult to service.

Effect of Porosity on Hair Coloring
Resistant hair takes longer than average to soften and penetrate...therefore should be allowed the maximum timing when processing. Very-low developer volumes ( less than 15 to 20 Volume) won't soften it sufficiently. Super-duper resistant hair sometimes referred to as "tenacious" which is Gray sometimes requires pre-softening or pre-pigmentation.
Hair of normal porosity accepts and retains color normally. A slightly open cuticle allows chemicals in normally, and, once the coloring process is complete, closes enough to prevent dye molecules from escaping. Timing and formulation are normal for hair of normal porosity.
Porous hair sponges up color - it drinks it ---but it releases color quickly, too. It lets it IN and it lets it OUT. A highly raised cuticle is penetrated instantly (so timing is shorter) but it is not compact & intact enough to retain color molecules normally. Overporous hair tends to fade faster than the other 2 classes and may require 'filling' ( a subject I have yet to go into). High volume developers are generally unnecessary and can be quite detrimental on super overporous hair. If the color service is deposit only, a low or no-peroxide color is a gentle alternative (demi-permanent or semi-permanent products are great choices).
Overporous hair accepts dyes differently than that of normal porosity. The more overporous the hair, the more selective its acceptance of permanent hair color (oxidative dyes). With permanent haircoloring, overporous hair tends to reject warm artificial pigment ( red & gold) and accept ash (cool & drab) pigment.

The problem with many client's hair is: there may be multi-porous hair along one strand, more than one porosities along one strand, YYYepp! What solves that? Equalizing the porosity of the entire head of hair prior to coloring makes huge difference, I am such a promoter of this idea that I carry many products in the store to combat the problem. I am finding many hair stylists don't under stand the concept either. (about 1/4 to 1/3 of our members are licensed Cosmetologists!) I write this to accommodate you the CRIB COLORIST, I want you to be as educated as I was, if you choose to do so. Here are a few of the porosity equalizing products I carry in the Killer Color Clinic hl=enhttp://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/web?hl=en

• In Depth by WELLA
• Malibu 2000 Treatment Packs - Color Prep package
• Malibu 2000 Shampoos
• Spray Porosity Equalizer (its on its way for the Killer Color Clinic) which I use on my clients, helpful with blonding especially.
• Thriven : leaving this on overnight as directed, would be the closest product to regaining some of your original porosity.

Keep this in mind about porosity: it lasts forever. Once the cuticle is lifted, there is no returning it to it virginal / compact state. Any porosity you create will remain forever, until the hair is cut off and GONE ! Another reason to keep your haircuts regular!

Although normal porosity cannot be restored once lost, treatments such as the Malibu 2000 Treatment Packs that only sell for $3.50 in the store, are of great value, along with the Gold Standard for Hair Conditioning : THRIVEN. Both the entire Malibu 2000 line and my Killer Strands Line of products is dedicated to the porosity of the hair, as you can see its not an easy concept to explain OR understand . . .so I am hoping with this post, I have made it a little more clear at least and expressed the importance of porosity with your hair.
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven

Killer Chemist

Beauty Survey - - Its Quick & Helpful

Helps me learn about you -
my demographic

I'd really appreciate
you taking a few minutes

What is your Beauty Profile?

Click here to take our survey

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=9oy_2fpmFB6rj46h3uTb_2fQPg_3d_3d

Don't Fear Coloring Your Hair at Home: Try the 'Online' Hair Color Consultation, Part 2

1 on 1 Hair Color Consult from LA Hair Colorist; Online

Now that you have learned what is done in the HAIR COLOR CONSULTATION HCC in the beginning stages, I'd like to tell you what happens after we have come up with your own custom hair color formula. Sometimes the process of coming up with it comes as quickly as 2-3 days... with some of my tougher cases it has taken up to 30 - 40 - even 60 days!

Depends on what the problems are, how well you follow through with your part and how much time it takes me to understand the entire picture. Its just not as easy as I thought originally, not having the advantages of VISION and TOUCH really is so important, as a Stylist you never realize it. .Once we begin the consult, you have 3 months to complete it. As I've discovered with a few of the HCC purchases - some were not able to start right away, for one reason or another - you have 6 months from the date of purchase to begin the consult, once started- 3 months to complete.
When I can put my hands through a clients hair it tells me sooooooo much, and when I can look up close at their hair it tells me even more about the (PET) Porosity, Elasticity, and Texture of ones hair. Those 3 factors are very important in calculating ones hair color formula, which is one of the bigger factors in why boxed kits don't work, they don't take that into account. Some clients hair takes hair color easily and some are very resistant to it, and that is something you can only tell from being in the same room as the client. Which is why I desperately need the particular photos I request.
Remember the only place you will find out the secret trick to successfully covering gray hair is by having a HCC, I just will not put that in the Blog, ever - its the only secret I entrust to my mentor, and do not want to publicize it as it is not my secret to tell. So for successful Gray hair coverage you will need to sign up for a HCC, not that bad for a life-long solution. I have 6 textbooks on the subject of hair and hair coloring and none of them print the proper method to covering gray which I find comical, yet sad at the same time.

Now, at this point you need to go to the Killer Color Clinic and make up your shopping list of what you would like to order. I will have given you the numbers of color or Lightener you need to complete the process, and the tubes of color come with the Developer (unlike any other source in stores or Internet) or you can purchase the entire litre if you want..
Here are the necessities for coloring your hair with Pro hair color:

• plastic or glass bowl ONLY (there is a reaction w/ metal)
• Tint brush ( the duo only costs $4.00 here)
• cape or old shirt: protect your clothing
• Color Block (product rubbed on hair line for dark hair colors to prevent staining skin)
• GLEAM:oil to apply to hair prior to coloring hair - end results? Shiny soft hair - a must.
• Combs: Regular cutting comb & Tail comb to section off partings
• Clips: to Clip away your sectioning & parting ( pro- clips really help)
• Towels: old -- to cover area where you plan to color
• Extendable Wall Mount Mirror: If you are doing your own color ( I do my own most times) Its not doable without one of these. I found one on Amazon for $20.00! They look like this, and enable you to do the back of your hair.
• Tube Squeeze Key - so you can use every last bit
• Foils - if your style needs them - the pro foils are 10 cents a piece & if your order is over $100.00 foils are free
• IN-DEPTH by Wella: applied after the color/ tint / or lightener is rinsed out.
• While your hair goes through the chemical process the pH level needs to change in order for the color change to take place, in order for the shine to come, to lock the color in, and to prevent damage . . . you must return the pH level to its normal level which is what IN-DEPTH does. Absolutely necessary.
• Thriven by Killer Strands - Deep Conditioner to be applied once a week > OVER- NIGHT! , to protect color and revitalize hair.

When I pack my shipments I pack as though it was going to the moon or on a space shuttle mission. I have never had any breakage or any spillage (knock on wood) because of the way I pack and take care of my products. Its just safer, cheaper in the long run, instead of them breaking and me having to re-send them. So be assured that your orders will come clearly marked and labeled for your own safety.

Once you get your shopping list together, email it to me with your zip code for shipping & handling. I will send you an INVOICE through PAY PAL at which point you do NOT need to join Pay Pal, to pay for it . . . I don't know exactly what they do on your end, but they make it available for you to pay for it with credit cards/debit cards/or checks. I never see your information not your credit card - NOTHING - which I actually like + I think makes it safer for you. With checks, they put a solid 10 day HOLD on the sale and won't let me send it out for 10 days, FYI.

Once I am notified of your payment, your sale goes into my file for SHIPPING . . . I do not send products out daily, not until we grow more (tell your friends). The part I see and hear from you once you place the order is this.. . fear of what you are getting and knowing if you will know what to do with it all. I package everything uniquely as you will see. With all of these liquids I have not had ( knock-on-wood) one spill or leak to date. I take a lot of care and precision in my packing of the products - ALSO so you will learn from what you are getting PLUS will know ''what'' goes with "what".
GLEAM. . . the small size, with treatment pump for dispensing. Makes it easy to use correct amount. 1 pump for each side of the hair > back, front & both sides, is correct amount. Applied to hair,30 minutes prior to hair color application.



Once I am notified that your Invoice is paid from PAY PAL, within 48 hours you will get a confirmation emailed to you. Along with the confirmation is a questionnaire and a list of the photos I need. I only need 5 of your hair , and then one you can find on our sister site http://www.Killerpics.blogspot.com of your "desired" hair color. So we both understand your goal. If you honestly cannot get your photos taken, you will need to learn the hair color "LEVEL SYSTEM" which is pretty simple, many of my long time readers can talk to me in hair colorist language which involves Levels and I am thrilled.
Another great idea, that many customers have done, is to purchase a Color Touch Swatch Charts from our website! They are an invaluable educational tool, they teach you Levels and Tones and once just the process of looking at the levels and Tones gets in your head so you can guesstimate very accurately. If I am not mistaken Nikki is the queen of these ( contact her if you are interested) you can get them for under $20.00 ! ! ! They cost me & other Stylists from $60.00 - $100.00 which I still find stupid.
Seems about 75% of you are interested in the whole world of hair color and more . . . where as the other 25% of you just want your formula to cover your gray and that's it. Either way is fine by me, I truly am here just to help you understand your hair.

One of the key points to assessing hair for hair color is knowing the porosity, elasticity and texture (PET) which is another thing hard to teach when not in the same room. Texture means wavy, straight, curly so if your hair is curly and you straighten it - you MUST tell me in the Questionnaire or at some point - that matters a lot to the formulation for me . Now with porosity (the ability of the hair to absorb moisture) another factor that for me affects the total formulation - I have asked many people how their porosity is, and they have known . Elasticity is not quite as important as the other two. Damaged hair has high porosity and is overly porous, chemical services performed on this hair type require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH, this will help additional over-processing. There are many tricks like this that can be used to help color your hair safely, so no damage occurs and the results are spectacular. These 3 issues are solved for me by the photos being taken in the manner I request. Just think it only needs to be done> > once . . then you have it take care of forever

While waiting for your products your need to be reading the posts that have to do with sectioning the hair, applying the color etc... so you will be well prepared for them when them they arrive. I have gone into these subjects over the years, and I find many of you do ot read any old posts. One of the best pieces of advice I can give? To read the entire Blog, it does not take that long and you ca skim by the posts you are not interested in. Every single person who has done that has THANKED ME, with that record, I would try it. It will fully prepare you for hair color application and then how to take care of it after you apply it (remember no shampoo for 48 hrs after application!). Here are the Posts:
http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/Color%20Retouch
http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/Crib%20Colorist%3A%20Hair%20Coloring%20As%20A%20Hobby
http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/Demo%20Hair%20Color%3A%20Step-By-Step
There are more but these are the 3 category basics, which doesn't include the ones for Blonde's. Most of you should check out the LABELS section on the right side of the Home page of the Blog, for what interests you . . . since Detour reorganized it, it has made life so easy you cannot believe it.
Once your products arrive . . . if you have a question or 2 that's fine . . just ask, if you decide you need help with the entire application the it will be another $20.00, remember you've gotten $10.00 back already with your purchase so its still a great deal I constantly have LA associates recommend I go higher, but I feel we are just fine for now. I'm happy . . .and that is all that should be important for the moment!

Consults are on hold for a month, then they will be re-instated, watch for notice.