Killerstrands Professional Hair Color ( at home) - Top 10 Suggestions for Success

 Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Now that I am a Crib Colorist myself. . .  I play with different methods every 60 days !  Remember if your formula is correct then it should surely last 60 days. Last months Color was done with old Beach towels spread out over all my bathroom shelves and products (a great result).  Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with the back of your hair. We have the one I use - personally, in the store. These mirrors are also wonderful for blow-drying and styling hands-free.....never go out of the house without a look in the "rear-view mirror" ! I have had be for 20 years, you will wonder how you ever made it without it after trying it for a week. You earn your money back in a single month by all the tricks you can do with it.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair - I have used many of the products by Malibu 2000 for many years . . .  Such as COLOR PREP Treatments packs, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commercials we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. 

The advantages?

why you need it

• readies hair for unprecedented color absorption, coverage and retention
• extends vibrancy
• prevents brassiness, dullness and discoloration
• accelerates color-processing time
• protects scalp from itching and burning caused by harsh oxidizing chemicals

key benefits:

• 100% Vegan, food-grade, Ecocert, wellness ingredients
• features a highly advanced blend of vitamin antioxidants and botanical nutrients
• activates on the spot for maximum potency
• free of preservatives, parabens, propylene glycol, salts, DEA, gluten and fragrance
• hermetically sealed, eco-friendly, travel-ready packaging
• safe for all ages, all hair types (except white, non-pigmented hair)

key ingredients:

• ascorbic acid – nature-identical vitamin C, freshly activated for topical use – removes damaging water deposits and purifies hair and scalp
• betaine - improves hair’s texture and softness with superior, penetrating moisture retention
• panthenol -  pro-vitamin B5 absorbs deep into the hair shaft to repair hair and improve moisture retention

The 24 hour Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, 90% of clients would stand up and walk out on you. I learned that the hard way coming out of Academy. Therefore, what to do??? 
24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products of any type - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

 

Strand Test. The difference between its cousin - -above?? One is on skin........ the other on the hair. Big difference. The one above you are testing to make sure your skin/hair will not have a negative reaction to the hair color. For this little guy you are testing to see if you get the color you desire with your present idea for a formula. I am very much in favor of this one. I will get emails all the time, from people who have destroyed their entire head of hair......I always ask: 'did you run a strand test' ?? THIS TEST WILL SAVE YOURSELF A WORLD OF HURT when NEW to Professional Home Hair Color. TAKE THE TIME TO RUN THIS - it will take you all of 1 hour.  For "strand tests" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back of the ear and underneath, using a foil to cover,process for complete time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.

 

Plenty of product.
 If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all, pr the best news is our NEWEST Star Hair Color, that we refer to as X.Factor - -  the tube is a whopping 3.5 ounces - its HUUUGE! It is almost 2 tubes in one for a super good price. Best part about it? Shiny - long-lasting hair color. A couple people have had a bit of a learning curve with the new ratio it comes with. Which is 1: 1.5. So with 1 ounce of haircolor you are to use 1 and a half ounces of developer. We are now enclosing a business card you can put on your fridge - which spells out how much you should use at every level !  Saving partial tubes are done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

6 Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. We have a couple different types of this . . . the one by Repelle is my fav., it is like a giant Lip Balm stick making it easy to crank up and draw around the hairline. To me??? Time is always money!.

You know. . . .  I've tried lots of the 'home remedies' - - honestly - something made just for the occasion is easier and more effective.

 

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp - which we give to you free ON REQUEST !      Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for very decent prices at our store.

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/tools-and-supplies 

Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

 
Always use a Post Color Treatment. Our own INTENSIVE is as GOOD as there is...the way it fly's outta here, you would think it was free- it is a triple-threat.....1) conditioner and 2) pH balancer and most importantly 3) a Color Lock..... I speak about it frequently, this step is out of my "SUCCESS IN COLOR ARSENAL - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! 

ooooops, if you do have a mishap,  we have a couple of Solutions to help . . . 

~ we have the GROUP......join that for support - research & questions

~ you may TEXT the store.......

~ you may ask simple questions when submitting your order

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.
I WANT YOU ALL TO SUCCEED, I swear . . . .so I have tried multiple different offerings for different types of people 

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing

• hair color

• hair health


• hair education of products and their ingredients


• hair styling & tools


• hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

Good Luck and Keep reading and Learning


KillerChemist

Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series

New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics

1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.
2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.
3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.

5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.
6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.
7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.
8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.
9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.

10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.
11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.
12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control.
13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.
14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.
15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.
16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.
17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.

18. Discard all mixed product not used.
19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.
20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.

Killer Chemist

Parting:Sectioning:Tools - Prepare to Color Yo Hair - Part #2

Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy







June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time

Your Hair is Dyeing For You To Become A Crib Colorist

Crib colorist? Home Hair Color can be one of the most satisfying and fulfilling projects you ever take on. There are many of you teetering on that fence. Ever baked a cake from scratch? You know... put every single ingredient in the bowl - - one by one - - mixing after each addition -- baked it and WOW it came out perfectly. The difference in the texture, the smell...dear Lordie the "taste"-- you had no idea the difference would be this remarkeable - and you created it.

Imagine that sensation : magnified 100 times - that's how you will feel after that first time you color your hair . . the CC Crib Colorist method - the proper way.

Its funny I am not finding most of you looking to do this because of the cost . . . I would say 7 out of 10 of you are taking this on because you cannot find a competent Hair Stylist.

Therefore this is being written for all of you for one reason or another want to color your hair at home. In your Crib. I’m going to try my damnedest to skip the bullshit & cut to the chase in this endeavor. Killerstrands #1 goal is and always will be the 'health of your hair' try to remember that is always the basis of my advice and teachings. That is the foundation of Sassoon Theory and Killerstrands Theory, a good one I think - how about you?

The reason for the CRIB COLORIST Program?

So many of you are having your hair destroyed, damaged, and turned ungodly shades of orange, yellow and green all because of boxed Hair Color Kits. You know the ones, from the grocery store, Target, Walmart. Where everything you could possibly need for drop dead gorgeous hair that Heather Locklear has, is magically in this one little tiny box and is sold at a discount store for $8.00. Yes, that is right where dear Heather runs to when she wants her hair colored. She sends her assistant to Walmart for a 'hair color boxed kit' Yeah, right.

In the level of hair coloring I was associated with (Malibu, TV/film, celeb, Hollywood) I was appalled that anyone would even think of using those boxed kits – I mean -- why can’t everyone spend $100. – $200.-$300.00 on their hair monthly? Well, as hard as that is to admit now, is exactly how I thought, and now am asking the world to except my apologies and regrets that I was like that. I can only learn from my mistakes, apologize, improve and try to get back to being a compassionate person. Hopefully with this effort I hope to make-up for that period in my life where I was not seeing clearly. In my previous environments I was not aware of the amount of people that must color their hair at home, for one reason or another. I now, fully understand and want to turn my thoughts, efforts and education to that segment of the Hair Universe. I am pretty much over-trained for it, but that makes it even better. I want to give all of the people that will listen the benefit of all my glorious knowledge. I have become ill, and this is about all I can handle to do - it will be good for me and excellent for you.

My beginnings and education:
There may be many different theories on hair color, I don’t know…I was taught by the best so I have never needed to look anywhere else. I attended Vidal Sassoon Academy for 1 full year, then stayed on to assist Lucie Doughty (my mentor) for the following year to hone my skills as a colorist, which was worth every single minute! She was kind enough to share many tricks and secrets many wouldn't do. England is the so-called “home” of hair color & hair for that matter…with Vidal Sassoon’s head colorist Annie Humphrey's being given the name the “Mother of All Hair Color” of the last 25 years that I know of. She has always set the “collections”…developed the “trends”…made up new and innovative coloring techniques that we as “pupils” (wink) would pick up -copy and spread throughout this country – she was a firecracker and damn what a talent. Everything I know and practice was passed down from her and I have worked directly under her on occasion.

So many of the techniques being done today, Annie was doing 10-15-20 years ago, now retired, she truly is and was the Grand Dame of all hair color I'm sure everyone would back me on that statement. By the way, she is the one that not only introduced me to using the LEVITATION BLEACH on the bleach & Tone process. She had a model to do one day and threw a fit until someone went and found her some Levitation. We were at the Sassoon Academy at the time and had shelves of other products, she just would not do the models hair until we had this particular Levitation Oil Bleach - at that point I hadn't heard of it - we used another brand in the academy. ( I had to drive all over Hell 6 stores it ended up being, finally tracked it down, so I was the hero for a day) I have never forgotten that + plus what I saw on that model was a lifelong learning experience...I too have never used anything else. If she believed in that product that much, I was going to as well. That was 16 years ago and she was 100% correct.

After her, I looked to Lucie Doughty the single most brilliant Colorist in this country (from the UK also) that has since moved over to Paul Mitchell and ( in my opinion) is the Queen today. I look to Lucie to run with the crown for the next decade or two and with the USA trying to catch up in the hair color race, the need to reach across the pond has diminished. What I teach on Killerstrands, is a combo of what I learned from Lucie and my own spin. So, although the education did not come from me: it is my interpretation and my slant on things after years on my own and with my personal artistic twist and input. Being extremely lucky in having some of the best teachers in the world -- I thank my lucky stars all the time.

This is my interpretation of a universal standard that hair color works; it is chemistry like cooking is. Certain ingredients perform certain actions… emulsifiers, ammonia's, peroxides…they need to be used to perform what they were made for. Certain products have no grey, its black and white…its science although in order to come up with various colors and new inventions we are taking new liberties all the time. The method I relay to you, is going to be as absolutely SIMPLE as possible. Any questions at all I hope you will bring up immediately in the "comments" section - Any comments section, it doesn't matter, I get an email right away when any comment is made anywhere on the site.. Asking the questions here will get you the fastest answer, plus it helps me by posing questions I guarantee you other readers are thinking.

To make it absolutely clear my goal for you as a certified CRIB COLORIST is : to STOP purchasing the boxed Kits of COLOR. They are not set up to work properly on your hair, and in my experience, have seen them damage and destroy hair time after time.

I make the professional color available to you if you'd like to purchase it from me through PAYPAL, making sure you understand the "Level System" and some

color theory. The main goal for you is to buy the items separately - where ever you get them from !

Its not that hard, and the only reason they don't push the separate TUBE ... and DEVELOPER method is , they don't think the public will take the time to learn this small system I am asking you to learn. The LEVEL system. Once you understand THAT . . .then you can figure out what tube of hair color and what Volume of developer you should use.

You are still purchasing the same "basic" ingredients, this way you will purchase the proper "volume" developer and "proper level of color & tone for only your hair" the difference that will happen in just making these few little changes will blow you away. You will learn what Level of hair color you can buy that will work and will not.

Not all hair colors work on all hair, there are many limitations I promise you - they don't tell you that one statement on those box kits. There are already many readers that have taken the time to learn the Level System and have written in with their stories, I will begin a section with them very soon. I promise its very simple - - - like learning to cook - the basics. Please go to our GROUP - there is a BEGINNING to COLOR Your Hair at Home section http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands

This is what you would purchase from Killerstrands to get started :

pH balancer ( it helps the condition & shine- promise)

bowl

brush

gloves come free with every order of hair color

Yes this is a broad statement...because every one's hair is very different but this one color process is the single most common hair color performed in the country so I chose that as an example. This is for that person that maybe is a dishwater blond and wants to be a yummy chocolate brown, so every month she has to touch up her roots with the brown tint and refresh the ends.

In order for you to understand which color you should buy when you go to the store you must learn some very simple basics. So please try to have an open mind, hair color manufacturers ‘think’ the consumer won’t take the time to learn the “Level System".
I disagree.
I feel with a little education, demonstrations and a great website it can be solved and all of you can have the knowledge to pick out your own tube of hair color the RIGHT ONE and the proper volume of developer not the one they think you need - hair color does not work that way. So when you color your hair, you don't have to go back and buy another color and cover it up.

HOW MANY OF YOU HAVE HAD TO DO THAT?

From this site alone I have heard of hundreds of women that have had to do that.

That way they are selling you 2 kits

That's not very nice now, is it?

I didn't realize it before I got out into the Salon world and the public. I worked in the Hollywood Glitz world styling with all the tricks of the Trade . . . they are 2 completely different worlds, and I can see why now, as a hair stylist a fairly good size of our business is fixing the disasters created by boxed color kits.We used to call them "job security". . . so why would we want to explain this to anyone?

I have only recently put the whole thing together because I am not working in the hustle & bustle of a Salon.

The Hair Color Manufacturers that make those boxed kits Set You Up To Fail - you either have to purchase 2 kits or send that customer to the Salon to get their hair fixed by a professional - that professional may use that same companies "professional" line of color even.

Either way they are getting you for 2 hair colors - when it only needs to be one.

I have read the back of those kits, I even bought a couple to see what in hell is wrong - after receiving so many complaints & finally having the time to research it..

I don't want to go into it all here - if anyone wants the specifics I have answered many questions on the subject over at YAHOO ANSWERS - under the hair category -" hair color kits ").

What I want you to start thinking about is ...the fix for this, is finally here.

Its already posted, I have been teaching it right along, so you need to begin the series and read pretty much the whole blog up to here. I know it seems like a lot. Sit back and enjoy - I teach a lot of things most every top hair stylist keeps secret...so I would ABSORB - ABSORB it all up if I were you.

Everyone I tell to do that - thanks me.

I try to make it interesting, you can ask questions whenever you want - I answer everything.

Lastly: my illness is terminal, I don't know how long I have left and what will become of this
when I am gone, I am trying to get everything down as quick as possible - I'd like everyone to be able to get the advantages. So I would start learning and reading if I were you. No other Stylist will give up what I have, I've said it before: Stylists are only as good as their trick and secrets.

Mine are here for the world to read and enjoy.

BIONIC BLOND -- Toner Application

Remember the Process is called a Bleach & Tone and has been called that since the 50's!  Being as our previous Post was on fighting Brass, if you could not or did not get all the brass out then here we have this Post on How to APPLY a Toner for you!

 Bleach & Tone Process

Application of Toner

Shopping List

• Towels
• Tail Comb
• Latex Gloves (small)
• Crocodile.clips heavy-duty hair-clips
• Crib Colorist Cap
• Plastic/Glass Bowl
• Shampoo SLS-free
• Peroxide - 10-20 Volume
• After/Treatment Rinse {Intensive}
• Cotton
• Toner
• Protective Cream
• Tint Brush
• Timer

Pre-lighten the hair to the "frozen butter" stage...ever seen frozen butter? Helluva lot different than room temp. butter...its very pale - frosty yellow/white, check your freezer....so you implant that color in the cells of your brain. 
That is the key to getting hair light enough, YET not too light, so as to do irreparable damage.That is one of the trickiest yet most crucial parts to nailing the proper bleached blond. Here's a couple photos. . . .to show you it is not white. 

Preparation

1. Prelighten to FROZEN BUTTER.
2. Shampoo hair super lightly ( most likely this is already done), after-treatment conditioner, rinse, and towel-dry.
3. Select the desired Toner Shade - check manufacturer's directions as to whether the hair is better dry or wet ?...they are ALL different.
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears.
5. Perform a strand test, for allergies. ( I have to suggest this, its up to you)
6. Toners are both --- sometimes non-oxidative (which means it does not use Developer - its used straight out of bottle or tube), some times oxidative, usually 10 -15 Volume is for Toners in the rare case. 20 volume. NO OTHER VOLUME. I can see a lot of you do not quite understand VOLUME'S. Remember 10 Volume - deposits color only. There is no lift ( lightening). 15 Volume is deposit only. The idea here is to deposit a very light OPAQUE ( think of Nylons or Opaque pantyhose in this case) "Tone" on top of the lightened hair. An Ice beige, a Platinum, Rosy beige, there are a zillion colors like this. If you cannot figure this out.... you cannot go wrong by using a Platinum toner. Platinum would be Gwen Stefani's hair, everyone loves Platinum.

Procedure

1. Part the hair into 4 equal sections, using a tail comb or tint brush...you must be VERY gentle to the scalp it will be very tender (on some), avoid scratching it.



2. Mix the Toner according to manufacturer's directions.

to be continued....
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

Hair Color Toys. . . I Mean Tools

You will need everything displayed on this page to do Home Hair Coloring . . .The "bottle" method does not work with the consistency of the newer hair colors..but that's OK the newer colors are thicker and heavier which translates into richer bolder colors that last longer and are much more vivid.

foil : a small roll will be $4 or $5.00,

latex gloves - you can buy them single-y from behind the counter.

pro Large Hair Clips

Tint Brush

Timer - important

Measuring Cup for Peroxide - also important