Class Is In Session : Understand How To Rid Hair of Unwanted Tones (DURP)

Unwanted Tones is a difficult subject 

for Most Hair Colorists

I have been writing about this subject for over 10 years. . .because it is single most misunderstood subject. People ask me every single day how they might rid their hair of this tone or that tone. So in a dream (weird I know) the idea below hit me and I am hoping it will help Hair Colorists across the board (both Crib & Professional understand the subject better.

Remember the beginning, you must ALL have or DRAW (with crayons, felt pens or paints are the best) a Color Wheel in your possession, so it is implanted in your brain.

 The idea on this Color Wheel is to get to the middle of the color wheel where your tone will be neutral. EVERYONE (whether you know it or not) wants a NEUTRAL Tone. A Tone that is NOT annoying to the eye. So the center of this color wheel is NEUTRAL. you want to end up with your color in the center.

• The #1 most complained about color is Brass (or Yellow) - see the #1?
• Follow that across the color wheel.... because to draw that brass into the NEUTRAL center - the one and only way to do that is by using ANOTHER color ( whether it be a toner or BOOST & BURST) in the opposing color, which is Violet (and that is why there are 150,000 purple shampoos in the world) !
• The 2nd example is looking at it from the opposite viewpoint. Blue toned Toners or Breaking Bad Blue BOOST & BURST are used to fight the DURP we call : Blorange ....or a Blonde with Orange-y tones.
• Using a Blue based Toner ( which is MATT in Wella ) will fight Blorange-y annoying tones across the board.
• DURP means: DOMINANT - UNDERLYING - REMAINING - PIGMENT. Or in other words - when hair is not lightened enough, these will be the annoying tones you are stuck with.
• That is your whole key to not having DURP problems. Don't lighten your hair. Some people have natural DURP but not very many.....it almost always comes from some sort of coloring adventure.
• So, in order to solve your DURP , just find whatever color it is...................on the above color wheel. Draw an arrow across the wheel................. and then find a Toner or hair color based in that color. You can find hair colors, Toners  & BOOST + BURST,  based in any color you need. Just do a little research !
• 
  
• I hope this Color Wheel helps a little bit for those struggling understanding this.

The Fault In Our Blonde Stars

The most asked question for regarding going Blonde, for I don't know how many years is..... how do I get 'Beige' Blonde.........as opposed to Brassy - Blorange or Orangey Blonde. I see it daily in the market, shopping - everywhere I go.....so many people whether they be home hair colorists, Stylists OR..........even..........highly trained colorists just don't get the concept.

I also realize I have spoken about this lately, but what YOU do not REALIZE is...........           I continue to receive questions indicating that I have done a poor job of explaining how to NOT have any of those annoying tones once reaching blonde. Therefore one more thing I hope I have gotten through to you is:

WHEN YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND SOME OF THESE VERY UNIQUE/UNUSUAL HAIR COLOR CONCEPTS ...... THAT IF YOU READ, RE-READ again + RE-READ ANOTHER DAY AND THEN CONTINUE TO RE-READ UNTIL IT BEGINS TO SINK IN, IS THE ONE AND ONLY WAY IT EVER WILL.

CELEBRITIES, are also at fault ! ! 

 See the Actor above has nailed Blorange Blonde hair!

I want to be dead honest....because most of the beige tint comes from whatever DURP you have and how good of a Photo-Shop magician you have working on your photo. But to get rid of it so very easily all you have to do is learn your hair and learn when to take the oil lightener OFF. Everyone's biggest problem is taking the lightener off TOO EARLY !

  Below is the graphic of how hair color LIFTS out of the hair strand. Most of you have brown hair of some Level.....so we will just show what color Levels the hair goes through as you lighten hair once you apply Oil Lightener or Bleach as so many of you have experienced.

See from the right ? say your hair is darkest Brown which means it starts way down there at Level 2 ........see it? 
Brown-Black?
as your hair lightens..........it goes through each and every single one of these colors in order to get to your goal of a Level 10 or PALE yellow .............or the color (I call ) FROZEN BUTTER !    That is where you stop.
There are stages the color lingers the longest are Level's 7 - 9, it sticks there 5 X longer than the other Levels. Which I hope explains to you why you end up with Blorange, orange, gold or brass hair in your attempt to get to a beautiful blonde! To you, it appears as though your hair has lightened very fast so you panic and rinse it off.....but what happens is from level 2 thru 7 it goes very quickly then it comes to an abrupt stop followed by a very slow lightening action to the lighter levels ( your GOAL ! )

So the problem (almost always) completely lies in the fact that everyone takes the lightener OFF the hair - too early. You all panic, almost always from previous horror stories with terribly qualified Stylists or terrible quality home bleaching kits - that will not happen with our oil bleach kits. But you HAVE to trust me on this and your best practice is to make up a tiny batch of it, test it/ time it - then you will know for yourself EXACTLY how long to leave it on , then just be sure that you set a timer and respond to it.

Lightener can be the most beautiful and transforming tool...............there is nothing like it, especially the Oil lightener.....along with the Violet developer which counters all the brass and orange just one more time. Included in the Kit is 20 Volume Violet Developer - no where in the world will you receive this. There are 2 complete applications, its a great price and I cannot wait to see how much you will love to achieve blond in this manner.

The Shine unbelievable !

The 7 stages of lightening are:

1. BLACK
2. BROWN
3. RED
4. BLORANGE
5. GOLD
6. YELLOW
7. PALE YELLOW

So....please try that method next - time. One of the most looked up terms on this Blog ( and there are a Zillion of them) is:  "high-lift blonde to platinum" Very Very rarely does that ever happen, plain and simple and I know hard-to-hear is: Highlift blonde is not strong enough, it works if you have VIRGIN Level 8 or Level 9, otherwise you will have to move to our very gentle and moisturizing oil lighteners. 
Wella's Illumina 10/36 & 10/0 are also excellent choices for super light blonde with a hair color. But get out of your own way and use the proper product for the proper result.          








KC

Go Blonder -- Not Dumber !

Lots of things make us feel like the summer has arrived.... longer days, no school, working while your friends are screwing around ! ...Warm Scents,. Va-ca...'s, and then the 1 thing that fits right into our sweet little Group, Blog and Store............ 

blonds...Blonder...BLONDest. . . . BLONDER - BLOND POWER . . ! ! ! ! !  

 So we will concentrate on Blonds for a little bit this month and I am so excited about them because they have finally come up with Blonde's that I have always wanted. #1... A brand new Bleach System by Schwarzkopf called Gel-Bleach System, which lifts 5+ Level in a Gel Form and then also the  9 + level Lift Powder Lightener is the new Rocket Bleach ( my name) and the lightening material is CLEAR in the Gel.... that way you can see how light the hair is as it turns, so that you do not leave it on too long, which can be a treacherous problem or Vice-Verse leaving it on too short which is the same problem (can u say Blorange) !

.....Don't you just Love Euro HAIR magazine??

I'm going to begin bringing in bits and pieces of Schwarzkopf's new line because the entire line has been re-formulated it is all non-ammonia but claims to not have lost a bit of its lifting capabilities (which have been the problems in the past ) so, to have gotten rid of that ....as a matter of fact they claim to have the best lifting abilities  . Which probably is accurate because Italy/Canada are producing the best in the world or the lightest nad highest I should say.

Recently I have been in a mission of testing and re-testing blonde's, using Strand Tests....once I get started I like to keep going until I test everything I hear is good. I'm very excited as all of you should be.....for the best highlift Blonde's I have seen in many MANY years. 

I was very impressed with  this OSMO line of hair color ...I had no intention of bringing in their color this is one of the biggest new "wow" lines in England and Canada.....both of those venues are  years ahead of us in knowledge of the hair industry...I don't know why but they just are....and always have been !

So I hope you are open enough to try these new brands. I know it may seem like I bring in and out a lot of products but monthly I am pitched so many lines of products ( not professional hair color ) ....so its a battle trying to decide the lines and brands I love 

We are giving out (BIG) 2 - ounce samples of the NEW ---> UNA Sesame - Oil Deep Conditioner u kno that Italian Line I brought in....A couple of Group members suggested UNA to me, well its here....and I love it !

 I had never hear of them before but this is what I found......... 
I slept with it in my bra-strap length hair Overnight  (2nd week of Chemo) and  my hair was so soft fluffy ...... my cousin asked if I had extensions in my hair looked so good  last night and I'm tellin' you it runs a close 2nd to my Beloved Thrive.n.. Request a sample....Free Samples going out this week, with orders.
I'm super anxious to try both the LINSEED OIL Conditioner and the COCONUT OIL, the story behind Una is a wonderful one. Its a family owned business who has been making healthy hair products since the 1950's !!!....you can't even find any other distributors........I love it ! and so will you.... 

Do you realize that you get 1 Sesame Oil Conditioner for $20 less than ( which is equal to 4 THRIVE'N's !! ) ...........which is :$34.20 !!

(now for the conditioners ....any of them.....you must get this comb !)

Now you also must consider this dynamite comb, which is very versatile. First of all you can always cut a birthday cake if your knives are all dirty because that is what it really is.............But, someone along the way figured out what a handy little tool this is for curly hair.....both a daily comb AND a Deep Conditioner Applicator.......and boy does it work good for both of those things.......I think - maybe I should have a small curly hair section....When I started out I asked the curly hair girls if they wanted to partner up and they turned me down because they had never heard of me.,......Well,  a year after that they came to me asking if I wanted to do it and I was over it by then......I don't know do we have any curlies here or not....please speak up if there are.....
I sell a decent amount of these combs so I am assuming we do have quite a few
 here they are... the "conditioner Comb OR the CURLY Hair Comb

   Hail 

Hail


The Blondes Are All Here ....Join Our Group if you are interested in learning, which takes reading and pl