Great Hair is More Important than Great Body

Men say that having gorgeous hair trumps a curvy figure

Trying to decide between a pre-date trip to the salon or Victoria’s Secret, ladies? 

Go for the fab hair option. According to a recent survey conducted by Pantene, 60% of men surveyed would rather date a woman with great hair than noticeable curves — and 74% of them said they notice a woman because of her hair. In fact, a full 44% of male respondents said that hair was the first thing they notice about a woman… even before her clothes (26%), legs (25%) and makeup (4%). Most of the men who took Pantene’s poll also said they’d be more likely to approach a woman at a bar with great hair than one who was wearing a low-cut shirt.
<end snip>
FYI.... I thought it was just my guy who noticed when my hair wasn't great!

Glad to know my priorities are in order!
Nik

Thanks Nik for that, I just HAD to post it out here for our readers to catch, although as a Stylist you do learn that over and over. What I think is equally as fascinating?? The stock that men put in how nice their hair is. I have always told people : Men care as much as you do IF NOT MORE, about their own hair. .......................They are just better at hiding it !

KC
___________________________________________________

What Is the Difference Between High-lift Blond & Blonde Hair Color?

I am answering Group Member's Hair Questions This Month....this is a great question Regarding Terminology in Blonding..

 Hi KC,
I am a little confused about whether to use the highlift blonde colors vs 'regular' blondes, I am scared to use high lift in case I get too blonde (don't want the platinum look!). I have level 6 mousy blonde naturally, my colorist has been doing a blonde base color on the roots (no idea what color) every 6-8 weeks, plus foil highlights (partial) usually every other visit.  However, I'm not happy with the color or service, the color on the length is probably level 9-10, bit yellowy and the roots seem to get a little brassy/orangey a couple weeks after I get it done, and I want to start doing it myself to save money and time on the salon visits.  I travel a lot on business and so many times have to cancel appts, then it's hard to get in when I want to at short notice, they always make me wait and the whole appt. including drive time can take 4hrs! What I would like to achieve is level 9-10 beige blonde. Seems like I should choose an X factor color, maybe a level 10? With a toner? But maybe a high-lift level 12 instead? And any thing I choose should just go on the roots until the rest of the existing color grows out? It's so confusing!
Hair is long, below shoulder length very fine, good condition.
Thanks for any advice!
L.

 L.,

 I bet you would be surprised by how many people ask this question. !! It sounds like a headache trying to get your hair done correctly, doing it yourself would be the perfect answer for you. As with any talent or job....how do you become confident in what you are doing?  You educate yourself on the subject. 

 While you are traveling you have plenty of time to read...so begin reading the Blog from the beginning.... skim the Posts and read the ones that pertain to what you want to learn (hair color). You can learn to be very confident choosing and applying your own hair-color I promise you. It sounds like you are trying to learn it all in a day or two..... THAT is when it becomes confusing. We have hundreds of excellent Crib Colorists in our Group, you can be one too.

 Now, to answer your question...............

People let the "high-lift" term freak them out sometimes and honestly it is just a marketing 'term' is all.  What happened was: there were originally Levels 1 thru 10 only and if you look at any swatch charts you can tell that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ HAIR COLOR SWATCH CHART(above)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 One of the hair color company's (WELLA) developed 2 more levels LIGHTER.....than the 'Level 10'. So, here they were, they came up with this UNIVERSAL HAIR COLOR LEVEL CHART.... they had even got many of the other lines to go along with this idea....and BAM! ... 2 new lighter colors were introduced. What those 2 colors are.... in reality are a  Level 11 and a  Level 12, and that is all. That is exactly what you were talking about "L." So GOOD JOB, my dear!

There is no 'super booster' in those colors, there is no 'secret high-lift juice' in the tube......it is just the next color lighter on a chart that originally was Level 1 thru 10. So, what happened next?  
 In comes the big marketing Team. Wella asks them how to 'market' the 2 new lighter colors they have developed when in reality they have had a Swatch chart with 10 levels for the past 30 years. In my opinion... the Marketing people decided to name it "highlift blond"..... and they decided not to call it what it was....... a Level 11 & level 12. Which is what happens when you ask a layman to do what is a Stylist/Colorists job.
What all this means?
There really is no such thing as a "high-lift" blond. As you will notice in the dictionary that word doesn't even exist.  It really is just a Level 11 or Level 12 color...most " highlift blonde's" you see in the hundreds of lines are just called Level 12. Then most will assign from 3 to 6 tonal qualities to each tube. You will see 12.10A (ash) or 12.00N (neutral) or what I suggest for you: 12.20: super high lift violet blonde....oh my Lord, I never even 
noticed it said that. There that shows you how silly some of these companies can be. Remember these lines are trying to
This is a very long answer to your short question about the term "highlift". Does that make sense to you? I hope so.
So, do not worry AT ALL about using the Level 12 colors, because there is no "super duper light lifter" in those colors I promise you. Its just a marketing ploy aimed at Colorists/Stylists. 

Remember I have let all you Crib Colorists into the world of Professional hair color - something that was unavailable to your brain and hands a few years ago. I mean I call it a high-lift because the hair color companies have crammed that term down my throat....I really should just say Level 12. So, please do not worry about using these colors.

Now for the specific answer to your questions:

• you cannot go platinum from a high-lift - Level 12 blond...when you are a Level 6 - so please do not worry about that being a problem. It just won't happen. Sounds like she was using a high-lift blond on you and not leaving it on long enough or it was an inferior brand (or one of multiple other reasons).
•  sounds like you have not read much of my Blog....once you understand Color Theory, then you will understand which color you need to use to cancel the orange-y yellow-y . We call those yucky colors: DURP (Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment). So your DURP is orange-y yellow-y. You then look at the color wheel for your answers to the proper color to use, with what you have on your head. Using the opposite color from the color you are fighting - is how one can cancel the obnoxious tones in hair coloring. You see where the yellow-orange-y is.....??? in order to cancel those colors out?? Follow a line across the wheel....you  must use a Blond color with a violet-blue BASE.

 I hope this helps you . . . there are plenty of posts on Hair Color Theory.....and on going Blond on the front Guide to Posts....right hand side.

Thank You...

“Red-Hair Reaching a Roaring Rise” Thanks to a Couple of “E” named Celebs

A Lesson in Achieving Dynamite Red Hair from Killer Chemist

EVA    …………….  EMMA

#1 In answering a Question from one of our Group members, we begin the month of March with our 2nd question from a Group Member… Get your question answered by joining our group, learn a little about the Level System so you un-lock the secrets of hair color - - - I’ve had so many of you have “a-ha” moments while reading my Blog. Nothing could be more satisfying
                                                                   
So the discussion today is about becoming a redhead. Something I have avoided writing about for 5 years! The reasons? Hmmmm…maybe the fact that only 2% of the population are Red Heads, I felt there wouldn’t be many interested in reading them. There have been many reports about the fact that the true Redhead is on its way to extinction and I fear no one is fond of the hair color, but in the last couple months I have seen a mini resurgence in the flaming red hair some of us command.
Now, I am going to try something new for the month of March. I am going to be taking one of your questions from our Forum (Google Group), then post it here on the Blog and answer it, giving you the suggestions of which colors and which techniques to use. Any of our members may ask a question, or if you are new to the Killerstrands World (where have you been?) please join, our  Killerstrands Forum. Here os question Number 2 :
“ I have level 8 medium Blond hair and am interested in being the Red of star EMMA STONE (below), can you please tell me how to achieve that color without it looking faded, with your new line of hair color?  “ 
              
Well, I am so glad to hear people are beginning to desire the red locks, so many of you who turn to Blond would look so much more stunning with a head of red hair. I urge everyone to be a redhead at least once in life. You just never know. Emma seems to have chosen every color/tone we have in the swatch book!. Above is her current and most popular color.
Below she is a dark brunette:

And again as a Blond:

Lucky to find an actress that can afford us these photos to check out !
I happen to think she has found her home and that is as a redhead, don’t you think?? She looks the best as a flaming lock child…I would bet money that is her virgin color.

If you happened to catch this past weeks Saturday Night Live……Lindsay Lohan (of all people) was the host….and I honestly think they were trying to send her a subliminal message. She is this stark platinum blond now (just like Emma is above) and again > Lindsay is a virgin redhead. Now, in every single sketch – throughout the show - - they had her in a redheaded wig – at which time > she looked about a thousand percent better!  If she doesn’t re-watch the show and notice the difference….then they need to drug test her again…because she IS STILL HIGH !
But anyway, this particular question is fairly simple……a level 8 blond is about this:

One of the most bonus’ to this new line of color is that it has a wide array of “TONES” in each color and especially Reds. That wasn’t the reason I got it, but with this new trend towards Reds, I am certainly glad we have it. They have a Level 10 Red, which I have never seen or heard of, They have Level 6-7-8 “violet” reds….which is an excellent feature because it fights the GOLDISH tones I find in about every Red Color on the market.
So for this issue you do not need to “fill” the hair, not when you are using high quality hair color. The only thing you “may’’ have to do….this depends on the porosity of your hair….. is apply the color you choose twice. All over, but 6-8 weeks apart. The “RED” pigment is the toughest pigment to get to “stick” so that it doesn’t fade. There will be some fading, its just part of having red hair, I never heard anyone complain about it. As a matter of fact so many of my clients loved the fact that it fades, because about every 2-3 weeks you have a new color ! Red hair fades beautifully…so you slide in one shade gently from the past one.
 For the exact formula to the Emma Stone color we see above I would us the following formula:
7.0 N  : medium blonde + 6.34 dark copper golden blond + 7.62 medium violet red blonde + 6.26 dark red violet blond ……+ 20Volume ( for permanent) or 10Volume (to make the color demi-permanent).   Mix equal part of the 4 colors in the bowl. Then be sure to calculate the ratio of Developer TO Color….which is 1 to 1.5 . 1 ounce of color to 1.5 ounces of Developer. Use a calculator if you have to ! That ratio is important. We are including a card with all orders that helps you figure out the ratio. The best way? Use a scale. They have them at Target and are very useful in the world of haircolor !

I think the color she is right now is a 6.5 ( six and a half Red/Violet/Brown). Depending on the porosity of your hair, and “IF” you do not want to change colors completely, you might need to reapply to the entire head of hair again. This question from this woman did not state her VIRGIN color so I cannot address how she would re-touch the new growth. If its darker you would mix the same color with 1 developer and if its lighter ( highly unlikely) she would use a different developer.
As I close this Post I just read the new ELLE magazine, who also has chosen RED hair as “the” color for spring. So hopefully you can take a look at our Group – and find it interesting enough to join….we have archives of 3 years of hair health and hair coloring advice from both my 3 managers and I that you will find interesting.
Click Here to Google Group
Killer Chemist

Embracing That Inevitable Gray Hair

March Special: Killer Chemist Answering K/S Group Members Questions 


From one of our ‘down-under’ members:
HI All,
I'm back, I suspect many of us go away and try different things and
come back.
I am now a light salt n pepper in the lengths and white at the roots.
The last of my years of color was cut off a couple of months ago and
it was a relief more than anything.
I've had the Go Big or Go Home kit twice, the Thriven is wonderful and
I felt wonderful after using it.  I loved the Gleam as well - Gleam on
my hair, legs, arms just beautiful KS.
I'm saving so I can afford to the largest pack available of the
Thriven.  I'm not sure about the Gleam though.  Will it give my grays
and white a yellow tinge?
So what have I been doing in between.  Well, I've been seeking a
product here in Australia that does what Thriven does... the search
continues.  Most recently I went to Price Attack and explained my
issue with yellowing of the hair, the lady recommended a product and I
purchased it.  The next day I used the conditioner she recommended as
recommended and bless her, I ended up a member of the blue brigade.
Not what I expected or wanted.  Add to that my hair became more
brittle and suffered more breakage than ever before.  She wanted the
sale and got it.
I'm now in the process of getting that blue out of my hair and
returning to a local product that has a similar belief system to KS
(SLS and Paraben free).  It's produced in the next suburb to me and is
called Trichovedic - check it out and let me know what you think.
Today is day 1.
Once my hair is back to its naturally healthy state and color again,
I'm going to give myself a head full of lovely thin dreadlocks and
between now and then I'll be back to shopify hopefully finding a
beautiful shampoo that will keep my white, salt and pepper hair away
from the yellow and allow it to continue its journey to the white.
Yeah yeah!
Now I'll be the old dragon with the dreads.
What shampoo does KS recommend for white/gray hair?
Is it available in 1ltr bottles?
As Thriven is green, is it likely to turn my white hair green?
Gleam also has a little color to it, will that affect the color of my
hair?
Yellow dreads on a middle aged women would look awful.

Wow, that is quite a Post and I thank you so much for writing these lovely words....you have no idea how needed they were at this particular moment.
Thriven/Gleam/Intensive/ILLUMIN  all small miracles in my mind ...
I love to hear how my work has affected your life & your hair...so far away.
Let me suggest that you NEVER EVER purchase a hair coloring product at an establishment with names such as : Price Attack, Big Lots, 99Cents store, etc. I actually would suggest that you NEVER buy anything in the hair aisle at one of these stores. I am not just saying that to drum up business...I am saying it because this statement is NEVER more relevant : " YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". I hear so many people who end up here after trying to cut corners…unfortunately it just doesn’t work in the hair world. Think of how important your hair is to you……….then shop at a store that equals the way you feel about it.
Top quality products do not turn your hair colors even if they appear a pleasant color such as Thrivens’ soothing Mint-Aqua color. The Color I use to color is so diluted and of such high quality there will never be a tint of any sort. I would bet money that what you used had actual tint in the mix.
We have hundreds of customers who turn platinum (Gwen Stefani style) monthly.....they all use Thriven/Gleam and there is much MORE OF A CHANCE of their hair turning a color from one of these products than your Gray hair.
Gray hair has a very characteristic porosity........it is not porous….it is the opposite : Resistant. 
Gray hair "twinkles" when you look at it which is unlike any other hair color – the reason it twinkles? Is because of its unusual texture.......Bleach & Tone Clients hair is VERY porous, porous hair sucks up color like a starving lizard in the desert.
Gray hair's characteristic's make it RESIST the color.  What is the biggest problem for people with Gray hair? The color won’t stick, it fades too soon. Again, because of the texture.

The Color in Gleam is NOT COLOR. That product is 100% natural. There is not one drop of color in there. You cannot purchase or make Rosehips Oil – or any high quality oil -- that is clear. To get that you would have to refine it over and over and over until all of the xclent benefits were removed. You won’t see me doing that.
I checked out your local line you say is like mine & me. How can I put this nicely…..??? I do not believe in Brazilian or any other country’s SMOOTHING Systems and that is what his is based on. I’m just not on the bandwagon of frying the Hell out of your hair to make it smooth. I wish I could show you all the people who have written me with French Fried Hair that has all broken off – due to those systems. I find it weird that random people from around the world will write me to tell me what has happened after using one of these Straightening Systems. It is so sad to me…so just be very careful in trying new systems out. Do Your research….the Internet can be a wealth of information – sifting through it can be tough….but use your head.
Once you try one of the bazillion “NON-YELLOWING Shampoos (there are not that many that are sulfate-free) I think we carry all 2 of them. Alterna, & Pravana
I added the Litre size of the Pravana PURE LIGHT Shampoo to the store, I have seen it make gray hair sparkle – white…..only if you have tough to cancel that yellow they make a conditioner that is also the lavender color – so its ‘2’ applications of violet …but your hair really needs to be Resistant.


Thank you for your question and I hope I answered all your questions……  KC
Killer Chemist

Hairitage : Bleach Versus "High Lift" Blonding : the Lifelong battle

Maybe some Technical Aspects May Help You Decide

Here's the problem: Clients come in for professional hair color and ask for a certain blond ( light - baby wheat blond - like Gwen, Reece, Kate, Pamela, Gywneth, or Madonna - just NOT a yellow/brassy blond) then comes this request: but could you please NOT use bleach. They have a million reasons why they don't want me to use it, ranging from:

• it smells terrible
• my cousins hair looks terrible & she used it
• it burns hair off
• how could anything with the word "bleach" be good on hair
• my sister used it and all her hair fell off - -
• and every single thing in between

This went on for years ( btw : and still does !) therefore >> the hair color manufacturers heard this and went to work on something to answer this problem.

Why?

What is the first rule in creating a successful product or service?

** Find a "need" and FILL it **

OR

** Find a "problem" and SOLVE it **

Thus came this new big roll out of a new product to fill that need.
HIGH-LIFT Blond Hair Color
Some claiming they used double 40 Volume as a big grand answer to more incredible lift (which truly has nothing to do with the "lift"). This was probably about 16-17 years ago, just before I got into the biz, because it was brand new when I started - although its very hard to find info on the technical beginnings of this branch of hair color. As a beginning Colorist I didn't get the picture back then, not like I get it all now. As a well-rounded Colorist, now I feel I can sum up what it is and how effective it is or isn't. After 10,000 heads you get a feel for it.

The reason I feel you should understand this? Because they have High-Lift Blond "CLAIMS" everywhere now, and I want you to watch out for them. Most are bogus and they are the reason for many of the color corrections I have had to do over the years.

Color Correction became my specialty . . . I never pursued it, but there wasn't a soul in all of Malibu who did them, so I began taking them in slowly at the beginning. Its a specialty no one really wants, you are never paid enough for the time that goes into them, there is no book, no guideline, its a very tricky process because every single person has a different problem and story. There are never 2 of the same, think about that. Can you say NIGHTMARE ? This is why I know what I speak of when I tell you the stories I do. For 9 years every tricky color correction was funneled to me from all the stylists in town...its usually like that in every city across America, there is one Color Correction specialist. So if you need one - just ask a few hairstylists , they will know who it is. In Malibu they came to me so they wouldn't have to drive the 30 miles into the city and probably pay 30 times the price! With that said, here is my take on the High Lift Blond Battle.

"High Lift Blond" is basically, the marketing of the words themselves is really all they came up with. Making it sound like there is finally an answer to the problem of using bleach on the hair - it was an excellent marketing strategy, I wish I knew which company thought it up. The words "High Lift" must mean it lifts the hair Lighter than anything ever made. Thank the Lord. Its marketing boys and girls, pure marketing. What they did technically was ADD more ammonia to the existing blonds they had. The LEVEL 10 Blonds they had, including Level 10 Ash Blond - Level 10 Neutral Blond- Level 10 Gold Blond - all the standard highest lifting blonds they made ...they just added more ammonia. Ammonia is used in hair coloring to raise the pH - raising the pH allows the solution to penetrate the hair. Ammonia is an alkali; it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose is to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer.

The higher the Level of Color you are using the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond.

Too much ammonia is unnecessarily damaging but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development simply does NOT happen. Ammonia or something like it is necessary for hair color to work. Manufacturers strive to put in just enough -- and not too much -- ammonia in their permanent hair coloring products - lighteners as well - its a very tricky procedure. Think about that when some of you go looking for organic hair color without ammonia. Yes, it won't smell yucky, but how in the world will it work correctly ? That is the biggest problem I find when the whole "natural - organic" hair color topic comes up - so think about that.

High lift blonds contain the most ammonia, to have the fastest and highest lift cycle. That much ammonia in darker colors would be overkill. Really great Colorists are aware of all these little tricks and tips I have given you here . . . I want you to at least read them once. . . hopefully you will come back and re-read them, its not an easy concept to grasp, I know I've watched many a blank stare on my assistants faces and these are young eager to learn - right out of Cosmo-School kids!

So that is how and why and WHAT high lift blonds are. But the real answer to: how many levels does a high lift blond lift? : I truly believe maybe, just maybe they have increased the lift by 1/2 to one LEVEL more than the 2-3 levels a Level 10 can and that is all. Every single company claims theirs can lift, 5-6-7 Levels - that simply is NOT TRUE. I've run multiple tests on over 15 companies high-lift blondes so I would have my own tests in front of my face and my own eyeballs - so I knew for sure - what they could and could NOT do. I like to think a High-Lift Blond will lift 3 maybe 4 levels depending on the porosity of the hair -

P E R I O D . 

That is your key and your guide to High-lifts, never think they will lift more than that........and that is PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR ONLY. Anything else? Under 3 levels PERIOD -- probably 2.

Hope This helps.
Killer Chemist

Hairstory : 'Why Is Straight Hair, The Cool Hair' ?

  

Plus 10 Tricks To A Great Blow-dry

I wonder where the idea that 'straight' hair is the hair 'to have'. Every 5 years the battle of curlies trying to straighten their hair becomes more public as well as some new fangled technology hits the market. Its funny because the non-straight hair candidates reach across women of all backgrounds. I feel the marketing and making of 'curly hair' products are still fairly archaic - they will master it....it just has been a hidden culture for some time now. The most ridiculous part is : I feel it is aimed at women of color ONLY, and that is the farthest thing from the truth. I wish they would wake-the-Hell up already because a lot of us are waiting !

We continue to think that straight-silky hair is the goal of everyone, or that straight hair is the good hair & every other texture is bad. Everyone needs to pay attention: THERE IS NO GOOD HAIR or BAD HAIR. In Sassoon we were taught to treat as many people who would listen to stick with their "natural texture''. Your hair remains healthier that way, you can play around with your color...color is one of the better things you can do for curly-wavy-frizzy hair it helps add shine lending hair more towards shine with the light bouncing off the bends in the hair. Now I am referring to healthy hair, damaged hair is something you should do everything possible to avoid. The single biggest difference between good hair and bad hair??? Is the health of it. Bad hair is hair that has been damaged, so that should be the first thing you work on....Healthy hair trumps ALL types of hair.

The BLOW DRY is returning when straight hair is the goal, here are 10 important steps to a great Blow-Dry.

1.) The most important tip for blow drying? Sectioning the hair. Seem silly? Take a couple extra minutes to section hair into at least 4 sections if not 6. This will help in avoiding bumps and ridges in the end finish. Begin with the back section first, get it out of the way so you don't give up before its done, remember the ‘back’ of your hair is what more people see than any other. 

2.) The hair dryer itself makes a real difference especially with the new IONIC and Tourmaline models on the market. IONIC utilizes ceramic technology, which will leave your hair healthy, silky with natural shine and manageability. Plus super fast drying time, the higher price tag is because they really do, work. Save your $$, ask for a birthday gift, watch for sales. It will last a couple years and the time it will cut off of your blow dry time and the shine in the finish make it all worth while .  

3.) If you’re not using a silicone serum to coat the hair you will contribute to the frizz factor, there are a million and one out there but you must read the label…if it has alcohol in the formula you are defeating the purpose. Silicone Serums range from light to heavy and from the John Freida line at Drug stores all the way to here at our store (Sojourns).  

4.) Choose your brushes carefully, the longer the hair the bigger the brush. Axe the heat retaining brushes they add to the frizz and dryness. Boar Bristle brushes are the best and we have this unique and funny looking brush we call the thermo-straightening brush. The advantages to it? You can really PULL down when using it...and when trying to achieve shine and a smooth -clean blow-dry you will want to be sure to go downward with this brush or ANY brush....that way the cuticle is being brushed downward which is the trick to creating shine.

5.) “Heat” remains the single #1 enemy to the health of hair, most don’t realize this. Blow drying ONLY until the hair is dry, alternating between hot and cool temperatures as you go through each section remains important for the health of the hair. Just really try to use the blow dryer as little as possible. You would be surprised at how little you will really need it, give it a test run. 

6.) Hair needs to be 70% dry for blow dry to begin so you want to begin by shaking out excess water after shower, rough dry until 2/3 of water is out. Over using a hair dryer can rob the hair of moisture, leaving hair dry & brittle. 

7.) Do not use a conditioner after your shampoo, that step was manufactured by the shampoo companies. The proper routine? Shampoo and use a spray leave-in detangler. A daily conditioner just weighs hair down and produces product build-up. Keep product use light/ Some of you will need a conditioner after shampoo...I'm 100% Irish - Redhead and I have loose curls and require a conditioner after every shampoo. So I don't want to scare everyone away.

8.) When using a finishing product to hold your style – spray it on the brush first. This makes sure the hair won’t be over loaded and lets the hair shine through.  

9.) If you invest in a great cut, the time you spend with the blow dryer in hand will not only be less, it will be more rewarding and the end will result will make you like a pro. Try asking for a blow dry lesson to be included with the price of the cut. There is a technique called "wrapping" -- where you wrap the hair around your head...using the head as a big giant round surface....you go one way then the other...backwards/forwards/sidewards to sidewards... always finishing with the head upwards. That trick works magnificently for 40% of you!

  

10.) The finish is as important as the drying time. Seal the hair by turning the dryer on ‘cool’. Never leave the hair warm – it won’t last 10 minutes that way. 

Killer Bonus trick:They have what I call “rear view”  or the 360 degree hands-free mirror for the bathroom, we now carry them. Mount one on bathroom wall; it will afford you the freedom of blow drying the back of your hair while also being able to look at what you are doing! It helps in the final outcome and you will find the mirror handy for many other odds & ends (magnification mirror for eyebrow plucking, make-up application for poor sight, etc). 

This works wonderfully for those of you that want to color your own hair. 



Killer Chemist

INTENSIVE Hair Balancer : Works Wonders for Damaged Hair

One of the best little secrets Killerstrands makes..... is its product called : INTENSIVE 

There are a lot of you purchasing the oil-bleach kit this week and I cannot stress enough the importance of using this product. It can make all the difference in the world having healthy hair when you are finished with the procedure using INTENSIVE. 

It is formulated to balance out the pH of the hair - - after it has been altered in order to change the color of your hair.  People are so funny, they tell me they do not want to use ammonia, or bleach ..... on their hair...  yet - - they want their Level 5 hair platinum blond with NO Brass.  If you want certain hair colors you must learn the [proper way to reach them OR you must find a competent Hair Colorist.

If I were to color your hair with a product that does NOT use ammonia, they have added one of the alternate ingredients (that does THE EXACT SAME THING !!). So, be very very careful of products that say "no ammonia".

In order to color anyone's hair, the pH of the hair MUST be altered....(if it isn't.... the hair cannot be colored). Its Chemistry, and it is an absolutely wonderful  discovery....it is the chemistry formula that the founder of L'Oreal, French chemist Eugene Schueller, invented in 1907.

Although when you think about it....Hair color has been around for centuries (Thousands of years, dating back to the 1200s  (Maybe even before.). It was used for the reason of telling which social Class a person was. Women would tint their hair(depending on the social class.) different colors. But it was done by compressing flowers and items from nature (which was how "HENNA" got its start). Now that we have the advanced science formulas for how hair color works we are soooo lucky to have them. Treasure them, don't fight them. If you are not up for the ingredients.....don't color your hair. That's OK too. For the healthiest hair on the planet - leave the hair alone. Work on deep conditioners / Gleam.  

There will come a time when playing with hair color will interest you. I truly find it an art and a beautiful art at that.

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-in-tensive-porosity-ph-treatment 

KC

Killer Chemist

Color Your Hair Correctly: By Answering The Following 'Killer 10' Questions

The TRUTHFUL answers to these questions....will give YOU, the beginnings to a beautiful head of hair !

The Killer 10 Questions

Just today I had one of our newbies ask about the Killer8 and which questions they were to answer. For months I have been wanting to revamp them to the KILLER10 as the last 2 questions truly are imperative for a proper answer. 

We are looking for a New employee here at Killerstrands....if any of you are in the area (I'm always surprised that we have a teeny amount of Californians, for unknown reasons )

The Killer 10:

1.  Do you have previous haircolor on your hair? Which includes : Crazy Colors, Henna,Temporary or any form of altering to the hair. This is the most important question and all of you need to dig down and be 100% honest to yourself. I had many a person be dishonest, that sat in my chair. If you are not honest the results will be horrendous. I never realized this until I was IN THE SALON and have this happen a LOT! Then they blame you! I finally got enough experience under my belt....to be able to pick out when they were fibbing! It was a terrible position to be put in. Be honest to me & honest to yourself.
2. The Hair on a persons Head, is one of the most treasured items on a persons body...as a Colorist/Stylist it is your job to care for it truthfully and sometimes it takes a painfully honest method to care for it so they ARE happy, secure, & pleased when you are finished.
3. (V) What is your VIRGIN (God-given) hair color level & tone ? 
4. (I)  What IS your present Hair Color level & Tone ? 
5. (D) What is your DESIRED hair color Level & Tone ? ...when we ask for the VID answers
6. What is your percentage of Gray? Is it Resistant? ( which means is it stubborn to hold hair color) 
7. What is your DURP? Slight to Strong....DOMINANT... UNDERLYING.... REMAINING... PIGMENT analyze what each one of those words mean – one-at-a-time. It is an acronym and needs to be analyzed word by word ?? The most common? Is Brass....but there are many other colors..
8. What is your texture? 
9. What is the Porosity? Along with the Condition ??, many times the two of them go hand in hand….be clear on both, please 
10. What is your length and thickness?

 1 ADDITIONAL QUESTION THAT someone felt I MUST 

ADD TO THIS LIST.... IS AS FOLLOWS:

#??.) Please point out if you have a darker tint on top of either all-over highlights or all-over bleach & tone blond??? ... an important piece of info that MUST be pointed out when asking for help within Group.- - -  which really goes with Question #1

**** I will try to post this once per month so its easier to find.

But I encourage everyone to begin trial and error on the "SEARCHING" techniques on BLOGGER. They are run by GOOGLE so very "User-Friendly" and find things very well on the BLOG...Remember this BLOG is 4 years old, I used to be healthier so could do DEMO's and would write a lot more frequently, it has become more difficult for me in the last 6 months to write Posts, I want you to know I try my hardest.

_______________________________________________________________________________

At that point you will then know the base color if it is not clearly marked in the Swatch Book as most Swatch Books do not clearly define a hair-color's true base color, which I feel is because the chemists that design the hair color do not truly understand how to properly color human hair strands. What they do understand is how to make hair color. That is the HUGE gap in the world of hair color

Which is why if you stick with me, you will finally have found that person that closes that gap between Chemist and Colorist 

Killer Chemist

America's Newest Haircare Lines Chosen Exclusively by KC for Killerstranders!

Well, its a new year and I am on a mission now.....I got a tad lazy and now that I have more help... I can go back to searching out 'new' products to bring to you. When I look for new lines, I always comb the "ingredient list" of every product to be sure they pass "my" requirements for a product to be carried by Killerstrands. I was so busy with keeping up with employees, I lost sight of caring for the KS product lines. We have gotten some new help that is assisting me so wonderfully ... that now I can get back to carrying a 100% properly formulated quality line of shampoos, conditioners, styling products and conditioners. To date....we have found a minimum of 12 entirely NEW product lines that we will be bringing into the store, over the next couple months. We all are very excited at Killerstrands home office for this new and innovative update we are making to our Store & Blog.

For our very 1st ""NEW" line we are introducing the Sojourn line - a Hi Quality line of hair products that we sought out because of their commitment to using only hi quality, and SLS-free ingredients. You cannot imagine the surprise when I discovered this line was created by Elan Sassoon, son of hair legend Vidal Sassoon and many others that were involved in the Creative whirl-wind of Sassoon. This entire line boasts what they are most proud of is ... what is "NOT IN" the products !  NO: sulfates, alcohol, gluten...etc...etc...

 Also - - FINALLY a line that states its pH Level right on the bottle, its something SOOO easy (yet important), "if" you have the proper pH stated inside that bottle . Why does pH of a hair product matter? Your hair reacts and acts correctly if the pH of any hair products is within the 4.5 - 5.5 level area( natural)... The entire line is right there. It really is not that tricky to make a dynamite line of hair products "if" you follow a some simple rules. SOJOURN has accomplished that and we are thrilled to introduce the 1st of our 12 new lines.

You will NOT be disappointed......

 Thank you soooo much for being a Killerstrander and following our Blog, Store and Group.....

Killer Chemist

There Is Something About Hair Products You Must Pay AttentionTo...

I try hard in life NOT TO BE A NEGATIVE person,

I promise I do,

I am hoping it doesn't seem like the opposite to the Killerstranders Gang

Like in any field there is the "behind the scenes" stories and then what is on 'the surface'.... What I am doing for Killerstranders is giving you the "behind-the-scenes" from the hair industry.
If it affects the health of your hair, then I feel it is YOUR BUSINESS


The large hair manufacturing companies may not believe that is the case, but that is why the INTERNET was invented, wasn't it? In America we have many organizations regulating all sorts of things the IRS, the FTB, the NRA, Social Security, and on and on.

 
As I am sure you have seen, the War on Terror which is supposed to be at the forefront is lagging so poorly we cannot even get "Homeland Security" to do their job efficiently, so regulating and keeping an eye on Hair and Beauty products seems rather insignificant in comparison when you think about it.

First of all, what is the name of the industry that regulates hair and beauty products?
Do we all know? Guess.......
Got it ??????????
The United Beauty Administration ???????
NOPE ?
In the good ole US of A its what's called > the FOOD & DRUG Administration. The FDA.
Wow, but where are the words beauty or hair or health???
NOWHERE to be found.....why?
So the Food industry regulates hair and beauty????...........or better yet..........the DRUG industry????....you mean medicines-prescriptions and shit???
YEP! That's them.....
What could either Category have to do with the beauty industry??
They are the ones that are regulating beauty products?
More specifically > Hair products?
YEP, boys & girls,yep!
How?...................Why? ..................Are you kidding?.........................Nope!
So that is your first blow and the first HUGE HUGE mistake .

Basically there is no one regulating the hair industry.
If any industry is watched it is Skin Care and that is ONLY because the "drug" industry does NOT WANT any skin care products DIPPING into the "Drug" ARENA ...AT ALL. You should see the big wall and restrictions they have put up to PREVENT that from happening.

The FDA would have to bring home all the troops from Iraq to enforce the rules they have "JUST FOR THE SKIN CARE PRODUCTS to be enforced!!
So you can forget the hair Industry following any rules AT ALL!

Exactly "where' does "hair" fit in to either FOOD or DRUGS?
Absolutely NOWHERE
So basically the hair industry gets away with murder, I envision Hair CEO'S laughing all the way to the bank
I can see them at their meetings, planning their stategies and just laughing at the fact that no one will even be checking on the way they execute their next plan,
& what a breeze this industry is....FA LA LA LA LA

For example, and the reason for this post......
about 6-7 years ago?? I forget 'when' exactly, the new big thing was to have shampoo that was "COLOR-Safe". 
Remember, when that first hit? Coloring hair had become such a huge HUGE industry and those of us that cared about our clients color "lasting" sent them out in search for "COLOR-SAFE" shampoos. There were those nim-rod Stylists that felt if their clients "didn't" use a color-safe shampoo then they would have to return for more frequent visits (help).
Now if you had Cosmetic Chemistry training...or had conducted your own tests then you knew that the ingredient that was the enemy was the "sulfates" SLS/ALS or any of the cousins.

But what the executives at L'Oreal....& many of the drug store shampoos {whose sales by the way are in the 'Billions" of dollars range} did was >>
> they simply stamped "COLOR- SAFE "on the bottle of the same shampoo !
They did not change the formula...
not one change....not one alteration.........NOTHING!

I don't know, but I would imagine they didn't even think twice about it

The really horrible part?
They are perfectly legal doing it
--- legal 'yes'
--- morally ???

Do most of you think they probably laughed all the way to the bank? Or am I being mean spirited? I figured this out about 8 years ago when I delved into the world of Cosmetic Chemistry.
Before that, our worlds did NOT collide

{Chemists don't get along with Stylists

Stylists don't get a long with Chemists

Hair Product manufacturer CEO's don't get along with Chemists or Stylists

Then a Trichologist ( which we do NOT HAVE HERE in the USA, and I sure wish we did) is a whole other rock to throw into the spokes of the turning wheel of HAIR + Hair Health + Hair Colour.

Even though we have no Trichology training here in the USA, I am prepared to take the TEST when we do.
Which is what I mean about how they sit at their meetings just rubbing their hands at how they are 'allowed' to get away with MURDER because NO ONE IS WATCHING and there are no rules in place.

There could be battery acid in those bottles and technically they could NOT get in trouble for that. We have no regulations as to "what" a shampoo is,
what a conditioner "is" what's in them what can be,
what cannot be

Can you believe that in this day and age?
The Europeans have a whole entity set up regulating this industry.
I'm the last person to OVER-regulate things - I swear, but in this instance it makes my neck hairs curl!

What those cheap brands use as their ingredients...is discussed heavily and often in our trade magazines for Cosmetic Chemists.
My vision of this industry changed so much once I got the education as a cosmetic chemist, enlightened my whole world into "HOW products are made"... and what each and every ingredient "IS"
It was a wonderful addition to the education and knowledge I already had.

Please, every time one of those hair commercials comes on..........be VERY very careful....what you get out of them...

So - at least - I got this subject off my chest..... remember it...every time you pick up any hair or skin product....you MUST begin to learn to protect yourself, you must begin to pay attention to ingredients in cosmetics/hair products the same way you do in food.

It will seem hard at first, jot down the names of chemicals you have heard to be bad... just keep reading and paying attention.... because no one is doing it for you.

KillerChemist