HAIR……….PRAY…………..LOVE

They missed  most important Step : Good Hair
Never Fails. When I start to wonder if I am really doing any good out there with my hair education . . . a wonderful note from a reader floats into my world. I’ve changed the name to protect the innocent !

For J. (whom I hope conquers that 1 step she is struggling with) & all of you out there . . . here is her experience with 10,000 HEADS & a quest for the healthiest hair……..word for word:
I'm J~
...I saw your post for additional help in the Killer Strands Google Group and finally decided to write.  I know you're crazy busy, so I promise not to take too much of your time.  To tell you the truth, I stumbled upon the Killer Strands blog a few months ago, after going onto many different sites in the quest to get my hair into its best condition it's ever been in.  I've never had a problem with thinning hair (which is initially who I assumed the majority of your readers were), but everything that you said and the advice that you gave completely made sense to me.  I figured if the 10,000 Heads system helped people with those issues, imagine what it could do for someone without thinning issues, but with slight damage.  I began reading the blog bit, by bit, by bit, over and over, printing out every page and comment along the way.  I never had the urge to attempt to color my own hair, although I did read through and print every bit of that, as well.  My stylist only uses professional hair color and she doesn't bleach overlap!!!  So why mess up a good thing, right?  You're probably gonna laugh at this and think I'm neurotic, but after reading what you wrote about Sassoon trained stylists, I researched who was Sassoon trained in Massachusetts and finally, finally, finally found an unbelievable stylist.  It was the best decision I ever made...I can't explain how he does what he does when he cuts my hair, but I've never had such of an awesome haircut in my life.  It's been over ten weeks now, since I've had a trim and it still looks great!!!  So I actually go to two:  One for my color; and one for my cut.  As much as I love my colorist, she doesn't cut hair like Tony (who is the one that's Sassoon trained).  Crazy, right? 
So I figured I'd implement as many of the steps in the 10,000 Heads program as I realistically could, giving it a month without Gleam, Thriven and the SS, figuring if you were as informative and right-on-the-money with your information and advice as I thought you were, I'd see a difference (even if it was subtle) with implementing just a few of the steps.  I also knew that if I started to see a difference in the condition of my hair, then I would have to take it up a notch and order Gleam and Thriven and incorporate that into my 10,000 Heads routine (which I did purchase and now use religiously). I started it off with using an SLS-free shampoo (which was easy enough to do), upped my water intake significantly, and gave up blow drying for the most part (seeing how it's summer).  I've practiced yoga (for a couple of years once or twice a week (by the way, my yoga instructor has gorgeous waist-length hair, which I swear she got due to all of the inversions that she does), and work out pretty regularly (including walks) and try to eat healthy.  I'm not a big drinker (maybe only a drink or two a month) and I'm drug free.  I've only used a straight iron a couple of times in my life (I'm 39, by the way), and glad that I don't have FIA.  I also use Gleam 2x a day and I just can't even find the words to describe Thriven.  I am in love with the scent and what the product does to my hair.  The scent is so fresh, clean and rejuvenating.  The texture of the product is unlike anything I've ever used before, but it didn't take long at all to get used to.  The only difference is with me is I put it in (using the slumber method), but I don't wash it out the next morning and it never fails, every time, my hair looks smokin' hot the next day!!!!!  Well, those are my strengths using the system.  I still haven't gotten a show filter, I do have a good amount of stress that I'm trying to eliminate and oh, boy, I do enjoy smoking a butt.. :(  I'm working on those though.  I'm only human...LOL  I've been following the 10,000 Heads steps to the best of my ability for exactly two months and two days now.  I kick myself for not taking before pictures.  I knew I should have, just to prove that 10,000 Heads is working for me. 
Over the past couple of months I've often thought about writing to you to see if there would be any way that I could help out.  I'm a transcriptionist by trade, so I am really good with spelling, grammar, punctuation, writing, proofreading, etc.  I remember seeing comments from people wishing that you'd put out a book with all of your wonderful information in an easy-to-read form, which put the bug in my head to contact you to begin with. ……………………Either way, I love what my hair has become and plan on continuing with the 10,000 Heads System!!
Thanks for your time!
~J
P. S.  So much for not babbling, huh?  :)   
I'm Julie...I saw your post for additional help in the Killer Strands Google Group and finally decided to write.  I know you're crazy busy, so I promise not to take too much of your time.  To tell you the truth, I stumbled upon the Killer Strands blog a few months ago, after going onto many different sites in the quest to get my hair into its best condition it's ever been in.  I've never had a problem with thinning hair (which is initially who I assumed the majority of your readers were), but everything that you said and the advice that you gave completely made sense to me.  I figured if the 10,000 Heads system helped people with those issues, imagine what it could do for someone without thinning issues, but with slight damage.  I began reading the blog bit, by bit, by bit, over and over, printing out every page and comment along the way.  I never had the urge to attempt to color my own hair, although I did read through and print every bit of that, as well.  My stylist only uses professional hair color and she doesn't bleach overlap!!!  So why mess up a good thing, right?  You're probably gonna laugh at this and think I'm neurotic, but after reading what you wrote about Sassoon trained stylists, I researched who was Sassoon trained in Massachusetts and finally, finally, finally found an unbelievable stylist.  It was the best decision I ever made...I can't explain how he does what he does when he cuts my hair, but I've never had such of an awesome haircut in my life.  It's been over ten weeks now, since I've had a trim and it still looks great!!!  So I actually go to two:  One for my color; and one for my cut.  As much as I love my colorist, she doesn't cut hair like Tony (who is the one that's Sassoon trained).  Crazy, right? 
So I figured I'd implement as many of the steps in the 10,000 Heads program as I realistically could, giving it a month without Gleam, Thriven and the SS, figuring if you were as informative and right-on-the-money with your information and advice as I thought you were, I'd see a difference (even if it was subtle) with implementing just a few of the steps.  I also knew that if I started to see a difference in the condition of my hair, then I would have to take it up a notch and order Gleam and Thriven and incorporate that into my 10,000 Heads routine (which I did purchase and now use religiously). I started it off with using an SLS-free shampoo (which was easy enough to do), upped my water intake significantly, and gave up blow drying for the most part (seeing how it's summer).  I've practiced yoga (for a couple of years once or twice a week (by the way, my yoga instructor has gorgeous waist-length hair, which I swear she got due to all of the inversions that she does), and work out pretty regularly (including walks) and try to eat healthy.  I'm not a big drinker (maybe only a drink or two a month) and I'm drug free.  I've only used a straight iron a couple of times in my life (I'm 39, by the way), and glad that I don't have FIA.  I also use Gleam 2x a day and I just can't even find the words to describe Thriven.  I am in love with the scent and what the product does to my hair.  The scent is so fresh, clean and rejuvenating.  The texture of the product is unlike anything I've ever used before, but it didn't take long at all to get used to.  The only difference is with me is I put it in (using the slumber method), but I don't wash it out the next morning and it never fails, every time, my hair looks smokin' hot the next day!!!!!  Well, those are my strengths using the system.  I still haven't gotten a show filter, I do have a good amount of stress that I'm trying to eliminate and oh, boy, I do enjoy smoking a butt.. :(  I'm working on those though.  I'm only human...LOL  I've been following the 10,000 Heads steps to the best of my ability for exactly two months and two days now.  I kick myself for not taking before pictures.  I knew I should have, just to prove that 10,000 Heads is working for me. 
Over the past couple of months I've often thought about writing to you to see if there would be any way that I could help out.  I'm a transcriptionist by trade, so I am really good with spelling, grammar, punctuation, writing, proofreading, etc.  I remember seeing comments from people wishing that you'd put out a book with all of your wonderful information in an easy-to-read form, which put the bug in my head to contact you to begin with.  I'm not sure what exactly you have in mind for help that you're looking for, but I would love to hear back from you to see if there's something I can do to enhance what you offer to Killer Strands fans. 
Either way, I love what my hair has become and plan on continuing with the 10,000 Heads System!!  Thanks for your time!
~J
P. S.  So much for not babbling, huh?  :)   
Now, THAT…….makes me feel wonderful, so thank you for taking the time to write. A couple comments: you can either take or leave:

• You are not neurotic for hooking up with a  Sassoon trained Stylist, you are brilliant for that move.
• Having 2 people do your hair is the way it is supposed to be – that's how they roll in Europe….A Colorist & Cutter . . . so if you live on the East coast sounds like it is finally trickling in, lucky you.
• Inversions ( upside-down )… positions in Yoga, are the reason I have moved that Step onto the list. Think about it, all that blood rushing to your head. . . . is sooooooo good for your hair.

Thanks again, J. . . .I will get in touch with you this week about the ‘help’

Men & Hair Color – Professional Method For Those of You Interested in DIY

NEW! simple men's hair kits available HERE!

Eyebrows, Goatee, Hair – the NATURAL Look

Well, knowing that we don’t have a huge male following, BUT . . . I want to  . . . 50% of my clientele in Malibu was men and yes, they were as gorgeous as you imagine.  I waited till I had numerous requests from men for help with their color before writing about it. But, now that I think about it, I bet there are many of you who might like to try this on your self, your bf’s, husbands, fathers, brothers, etc. I don’t know why I have been so selfish . . there are very few men on the planet I don’t like, they are actually my favorite hobby ( hee hee !). Especially those of you who are having a great time in your Crib Colorist ventures yet, want more and more “practice” !  Hopefully many of you will benefit from this unique post.

Part of the problem of coloring men’s hair, once they begin the Gray accumulation is coloring it without having it look like it is shoe polish on the head when you are finished.  For a couple years I taught a class to other hair stylists with this trick, so those of you who have tried it with those results, don’t feel bad….it is definitely a ‘trick’ and one that is not known by a vast majority of Hair Stylists. Being in LA coloring men's hair has always been a HUGE part of my work . . . I LLLLLLLLLove doing men's hair….90% were straight , that’s just how men roll… out here. The precision and art of both a men's crop hair cut and hair color is the most difficult within the two genes. 

People always think the opposite, its much harder to get a man’s haircut precise and perfectly shaped than a woman’s. 

You know how bad the “boxed hair color” has gotten when I’m getting a lot of emails from men wanting to learn the proper way to do their own hair color ! They are as vain as we are and I don’t know why they shouldn’t be? We can all appreciate a drop dead looking man, the same way they appreciate a knock-out rack……er… I mean woman . . . hee hee - - You know what I mean ;-). They have all experienced the crap the ‘boxes’ do . . . and hopefully they are figuring out it can affect their hair loss as well. Something a man is more petrified at than dying !

First off, all the men that have contacted me about learning to color their own hair, have all wanted to do it because of the new and increasing gray. Running a close second is to tint their eyebrows that have recently become super gray. Both excellent reasons if you ask me. Girls want to do it, I hope every one of you support the men in your life ( of all sexualities) in these areas…there is just no reason men shouldn’t be as vain as we are. I don’t have the time to explain right here, right now…’why’ boxed hair color kits don’t work.
But I want you to look at the 2 photos of the back of these 2 men..... this is a coversation I have with men all the time and I would get frustrated because we didn't have the Internet that we have today....so we didn't have thegrand array of album after album of hair photos to choose from... I promise you that the photos on the left can be accomplished at home......IF...... you use 2 things from our store:

• Level 3N Hair Color Kit and the clippers we now carry I swear in about 3 hours one can repair and produce this well groomed look .

  lousy color at your local SALLY’S Beauty Supply ( largest & lousiest beauty supply in the world) and its horrible results. Just suffice it to say: horrible quality . . . that’s it in a nutshell. For the solution?
First all of you need to learn the LEVEL SYSTEM. Why? Nothing is easier . . . I promise you. It is merely a system that is UNIVERSAL….and coincides with how the tubes of color are marked.The Level System could be taught to a 2nd grader, so please don’t freak about learning it. The Level System is 12 levels of hair color going from DARK to LIGHT. In simple terms – Level 1 is Black hair such as Asian Hair and Level 12 is Platinum Hair such as Gwen Stefani / Marilyn Monroe. The other numbers are the hair colors in between.   

Look in the lists of Posts……………….on the right side-bar - - - - ->>>over there> for any additional posts on the “Level System” . Why you need the system is to help you pick out the proper color, how to achieve the proper color and how to think and talk about hair color.  In painting there are color ‘systems’… In cooking there are ‘systems’ ( called Recipes)…In Driving there is a ‘system’(DMV rules)……in anything SUCCESSFUL, there must be a “System”. I feel the most wonderful example is cooking because both cooking and hair color use chemistry to solve the problem.   Hair Stylists won’t teach you the Level System so you may begin to learn what they are doing to your hair so you learn I have always taught my clients what is going on - - -its just POLITE!
I bet very very few of you have ever heard of it prior to your visits here. That is what most of my readers said at the beginning of Killer Strands – many of our readers speak really in Levels very freely now its so nice to have watched the change. Men, you can do the same thing, if you want your hair color to be correct you will first Learn the Level system. The newest thing we have just added for you is your very own kits. Men's hair color kits.....with this hair color you can tint your hair the same color or you can go darker.... these kits are not designed for anyone wanting to go lighter than your present color. But that is most of you....so I feel good about getting that done for you. The kits give you 2 tubes of color....one is a Neutral or "N" - - and the other is a tone depends on the level chosen.

The first thing everyone must do is determine what “level” your own hair is. I notice many people are very worried about whether its a 5 or 6…..and worry (without needing to) that they are deciding correctly. The very best method? Ask another person. ANYONE. Print out this page. . . even better send a Link to this page to a good friend or two, ask them to tell you what level is YOUR hair color 9 times out of 10 they get it right.......as they have seen you in any and every light...so they are looking at the proper lighting.
I mean it is not super critical . . . no matter what hair color says….there is no such thing as “PERMANENT” hair color. They all ‘fade’ – ALL of them. So if a permanent hair color ( which is what you need to ‘cover gray’) starts out a 1/2 level too dark . . . just have some shampoo “with” sulfates handy. . .  shampoo 1-2 times….and you can tone it down 1/2 Level. See? Poof! Answers for everything.
So for the next couple days – everyone needs to do all the reading on the LEVEL System I have done, check out all the hair color charts and photos.
The next post will tell you how to mix and apply the color. But quick decisions on your Level is not a wise idea. Take your time, and the level goes off of the color that is NOT gray remember.
Killer Chemist

NEW! simple men's hair kits available HERE!

Detroit for Hot Hair . . I truly thought I knew of every Big HAIR Show In the Country. A huge, huge … secret .

Detroit apparently has a once a year hair show that I found out about because I decided I need to widen my education and bought a subscription to TIME MAGAZINE.
I’m sorry, but the INTERNET for current events and TV news is just not what it needs to be.
Its like watching TMZ almost and it is terrible, in my book. Following the Housewives as “NEWS” is just not what needs to be done. And you know what ? I love the “Housewives” shows….but IN THEIR TIME AND PLACE>… not EVERYWHERE.
Sure enough on the pages of Time magazine I find one of the most interesting, provocative stories on hair  . . . that I have been yearning for.
Lady GAGA is affecting everything and people need to stand up and listen. I know she is crazy and far out. . . .but we always need “crazy and far – out” - ALWAYS …. and then boring – middle of the road , and completely UN-interesting . . . - - - -  In order for there to be something new and interesting in the world.  WE lost the KING of that - -  WE Lost the KING of POP - - - -  and we need to wake up and realize how much we NEEDED SOMEONE LIKE HIM IN OUR LIVES  > > > > He was with us for 40 years …. so we never thought much about it. We never thought he would be gone, do you know how many people I know were shocked that he was 50 years old…..he never looked like he aged, he was always ageless. He asked us to think about the planet in the 90’s. IN THE 90’s ! ! ! ! ! Its 2010. 20 Years later it took us. That is so maddening to me. I’ve always been the “freak” too…. the one who is way ahead of the norm. . . . .don’t make fun of those people……...EVER. YOU NEED THEM TO HELP SPUR THE LIFE OUT OF YOU,……… WHO AREN’T.
LADY GAGA is the NEXT ‘QUEEN OF POP’…..Yes, she’s Ahead of everyone and does CCCCCCCCCCCrazy AHEAD of her time things…. BUT LISTEN TO HER……….. LIKE YOU GAVE UP ON MICHAEL. . . .God puts people like that in your life for a REAL - - VALID - - - REASON.
Don’t blow it again and again . . .  listen to those who are ahead of you there is a reason they are there. Its not just ‘weird’. . . its VALID THINKING….. and needs to be considered.
She won’t ever replace him, no one will. But the tragedy of Michael in my opinion ( as Madonna said . .) is our own fault - -  we all ‘judged him’  - -  like we are or were better than him. One of the biggest mistakes of LIFE is “JUDGING PEOPLE”.
NEVER EVER JUDGE ANYONE, UNLESS YOU ARE PERFECT and I have never ever met anyone who is. The people that judge the most, are the ones who live the most lies.
Don’t you ever say you aren’t.
Because you are.
Now to calm back down and try to show you some radical head of hairstyles . . . look at them and LOVE THEM. . .  like I have.
Its hair and hair is beautiful in any state.
Particularly so in these states……. from a great hair show that happens every year in DETROIT………………that I have never heard of…………….
I hate to think ‘why’ I have never heard of it. But, I hope from my little rant here. . . .that NEXT YEAR. .. . . .. . . . . .
IT WILL BE BIGGER and a ‘magazine cover ‘  . . . . . . . . . not just a small story INSIDE….
Knock yourself out – Detroit Hair Show





 WILD STYLE     Styled by Teddie The Braid Artist, Modeled by Candis Benford Prep time 8 hr.

Beautiful Butterfly Styled by Niecy Hayes, modeled by Taja Hiu, prep time  10 hr.

The Hummer, Styled by Little Willie, modeled by Sharv Bailey,  prep time 1 day
Its called HAIR WARS a 25 year old Detroit Tradition this year featuring 34 stylists and 300 models
I bet after this. . . . a REALITY SHOW cannot be that far off. My cousin lost his job after 30 some years with FORD. . .  recently Michigan has been harder hit than any other state. . . . so anything I can do to help . . .I am just more than happy to….


My parents spend 1/4 of the year in Michigan, the land they were born in. Its funny, my Father wanted to give his family and his children everything Michigan didn’t offer. . . wealth, work, prosperity…better weather. So he moved us all to L.A. the Land of Dreams. Now he goes back every year and LOVES IT, he has more friends than I have ever seen him have…..they both have more fun than they ever have had here in LA….its weird to think I could have been raised there had there just been one change in my dad’s mind…. and it is before my mom started running things. . . I can tell that one.  She would have stayed there. Boy, that’s a weird thought. You would NOT BE READING THIS ! THAT’s for sure!
Now our family is so dis-jointed I haven’t spoken to my brothers in 10 years and they live within 15 miles of me. I feel adding loads of money to the picture doesn’t solve any problems. . . it masks them for a while then ruins them forever. Mountains of money make for mountains of problems and problems that never can be solved. Its too late for us now. My parents are still here, but once they are gone. . .the 3 of us will go on living our disjointed separate lives forever.
Its so completely and utterly sad to me and my daughters.
So treasure where you live. Never ever think LA and California is the land of dreams…….to me its the land of screams, not dreams. When people press me on this subject ,  I say one thing to them  . . . .    ”LOOK AT OPRAH”   is my answer………. Look at the money she has amassed……………her mother and father are still alive, do we ever hear of them, she has NO relatives ? ?  I find that very hard to believe….is she ever seen with any of  them  ? ? ? ? ………………….NOPE, not a one. . . Money ruins everything.     She doesn’t talk to her father or her mother or any family members. . ……I’m just saying.                                                     ……………….Nope - - - I relate my family to hers . . . in my head – no its no where near the amount of money…..but just so I have something to keep myself from losing it & making sense out of nonsense . . .that is how I  see it  .   .    .    .    .
KC
KILLER CHEMIST

Boxed Hair Color vs. Salon Professional Hair Color vs. Sally’s Hair Color

Friday July 30, 2010

Most of the Hair Color is manufactured by the country’s largest advertiser, P & G (Proctor & Gamble). They own most of the Boxed Hair Color brands, Frederic Fekai, Sebastian Hair, Graham Webb Hair & all of Wella and many – many other brands. So they  {very quietly}  play all sides of the coin. 

I think its absolutely hilarious because they produce the Boxed Hair Color which forever I have called “JOB SECURITY” for hair stylists or Crap-in-a-Box - take your pick. Boxed Hair Color is a bonus to any Salon Owner….. why? Because as a Salon Owner you bank on the fact that you will at least book a dozen appointments a week to correct the color that Boxed Hair Color has ruined. So that means that  one company produces the color that destroys your hair with BOXED HAIR COLOR…….and also produces the color they fix it with (Wella) How typical is that of BIG BUSINESS in AMERICA? But lets get off that band wagon because it goes no-where . . . just FYI.

What I would like to point out today is that ALL permanent haircolor….whether it be the hair color you purchase in Walmart, in Sally’s Beauty Supply( the world’s largest beauty supply), in your local beauty supply or in KillerStrands . . . is all . . .  based on the EXACT SAME CHEMICAL Process and science - there is NOT..............let me REPEAT "NOT" 2 different sciences
One for the professional's and 1 for the Home hair colorists.
NOPE does NOT EXIST
DO NOT BELIEVE ANYONE THAT SPOUTS THAT BULLSHIT !. 

It all works the same and for about the last 100 years hair color has barely chaged, there is no unique wonderful discovery that changes your life. That just doesn't exist.

Most of the raw materials used in hair color are actually colorless molecules called intermediates, which are in a clear liquid form or are coupling agents which combine with the intermediates and an oxidizing agent ( hydrogen peroxide – developer) to change their appearance. These small dye molecules possess a color-forming capacity, and it might take as many as six different intermediates to make the color.


The intermediates and coupling agents penetrate in the hair shaft where they oxidize or develop into permanent, insoluble colored pigments that are trapped inside the hair.  
The Level System color manufacturers have created wonderful varieties.

What my true message here is that there is only ONE METHOD for Coloring the Hair. Some times the companies mis-lead you into thinking the hair color you might buy that is considered (with absolutely no documentation or authority) “Professional”… might be a more complicated or difficult procedure of mixing and/or application. Nothing could be further from the truth. All hair color contains the exact same 2 parts.

• 1 tube of hair color (pigment )
• 1 'part'  Developer in varying ratio's (in one of these strengths: 10V, 20V, 30V or 40V, etc..)

Apart these 2 ingredients make absolutely no change to anything. The 2 ingredients must be mixed well together in a bowl in the proper measurements, applied to the hair and given time to PROCESS or DEVELOP( Usually 45-60 minutes) I see all these ridiculous commercials touting the advantages of some new hair color that develops in 10 minutes. Yes, it will develop, but it won't last, which makes you need hair color more often.. I mean, when you go to a Salon they will always have you sit with the product on your hair for a minimum of 30 minutes, I urge 60- 75 minutes. 

What's the hurry?? 

Once you get it on, don’t you want it to develop to the proper color? Well, IF YOU DO . . . it is going to take an hour, and you just need to commit to that. Chemical Processes like this do not work properly in “minutes” . . . it takes TIME!
The myth that leaving the color on longer will make the color DARKER, is simply NOT. . . TRUE. If that were the case why would these lines carry 120 DIFFERENT colors? They could carry 10 colors and leave each one on for a different amount of time, but THAT.........IS..............NOT.............THE..........CASE !
These professional colors have a "stopping action".......they process to the level and tone of the color you purchased and then they stop working.
 
All the various hair colors whether it be Sally’s, Walmart, your local Beauty Supply, KillerStrands, any of the professional lines…all permanent hair color works exactly the same.
Take a Tube of Hair Color ...........mix with Developer.........stir..........apply......& process. My point being - please process for a full hour to get longer length coverage and always follow with a pH balancer like INTENSIVE, to lock the color in.

 
This is where I want to make things crystal clear for everyone. The Hair Color process is one - single - solitary Process. 

There are 2 ingredients necessary for any hair color to work :
1.) Hair Color Pigment Cream
2.) Developer ( hydrogen peroxide)
Now when you purchase hair color in a box it also  has 2 ingredients….. the same exact 2 ingredients as in the professional hair Color. 

So don’t ever think  hair color anywhere is any tricky system. The difficulty comes from figuring out your exact formula for what you do or do not have on your hair presently. That is the key factor for what makes the hair color formulations different.
Killer Chemist

Artificial Hair Color already in Your Hair?

The Single biggest Road Block in Coloring Your Hair
 
Previously tinted hair creates the biggest rock-in-the-road for most people trying to become a Crib Colorist. I do understand how hard that concept is to fully accept, because as a hair stylist I know I never announced that fact to my clients. Now looking back, I wish that I would and ‘could’ have.
 
There should be a warning on every package of hair color saying : “ Once you have applied this Hair Color to your hair, you will not be able to treat it the same….not until it grows out……as far as future hair color alterations “. That is a HUGE statement, and I understand why the hair color manufacturers don’t want to do it. But the Tobacco manufacturers didn’t want to apply that warning about: how those cigarettes you are purchasing, are killing you, either. Some warnings – just need to be announced – as a matter of good faith.  I’m telling you I did not fully understand the concept until I was about 6 months into the Salon world. . .so I fully understand the confusion clients experience.

Once your VIRGIN hair is altered in any way, all the rules for coloring your hair go right out the window. If you are reading and comprehending that for the first time, consider yourself lucky. But it is imperative that all of you know this. I address this idea about 3 times a year, but I am noticing by many of your emails that it needs to be monthly.
  I will point out that once you have lightened your hair is not nearly as problematic as once you have darkened it (from your VIRGIN color). 
                                               
Can you figure out why that might be?
Once the hair is lightened you have a blank white  (almost) pallet…so to re-color it, is easier (in most cases) . The problem you will find if you were to go directly from the Level 10-N (neutral) of the photo on the top to the color of the bottom photo, is the need for the process called “filling”. Filling is a bit more of an advanced technique and I will be covering that in the NEW FORUM we will be introducing shortly ( you may purchase a membership in the current store if interested ).
If you have color more similar to the bottom photo and want to go light, that requires you to remove the dark color first. We call this COLOR CORRECTION. The Statement I quote all the time is this : Tint cannot “lift” Tint – or Color doesn’t lift Color - - Or Hair Color cannot LIFT/LIGHTEN other Hair Color - -  no matter how you say it …….it all means the same thing that sooooooo many of you have a hard time understanding.

Once you put that first box of color, or Sally’s hair color, or any of those inferior hair colors on your hair . . . you are committed and your hair will never be VIRGIN again, or at least until you grow it all the way out again. I’m only relaying the message, in hopes of getting more of you to understand the most important Rules in Hair Color : Once you Color it once, all the rules for coloring it in the future CHANGE and become an entirely different ball game. Think long and hard before grabbing that box at that discount store.  . . . .Do you really want to lend YOUR hair to the inferior quality of a $8.00 box of color you picked up at Walmart? Please - - Please think about the repercussions of that.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

AA (actual application) of Hair Color.. KillerStrands Style

Within our brand new offering of a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store, we will be offering a unique version of hair color formulating assistance.We’ve tried before and failed, but we are trying a 4th time to get this down. I truly am praying for success this time, please be patient…please follow the rules, they are there to make this a success this time. I don’t do well with failure and I feel there is a way to help people with their hair color formula’s its just taken a few trial & error attempts to get to this point.
What the TCE.TCF (ThisChangesEverything.TheColorFormula method does NOT include is directions for the application of the hair color. Which I promise you is just as important, I make the mistake all the time presuming everyone has a hair stylist background, as when I was educating, it was for people who owned chains of Salons and/or were trained at Sassoon. . . when I do that, PLEASE, stop me PLEASE ask questions of me when I do that. I am an admitted ding-bat and a huge member of the CRS Society http://onlineslangdictionary.com/definition+of/crs+syndrome, always keep that in mind.

There are basically 2 types of applications: VIRGIN & RETOUCH.  Now to explain these is a tad confusing most likely to the non-pro. I think I’ve done a fairly decent job of defining what “virgin hair” is, you must know what virgin hair is to have a TCE:TCF = hair that has not been colored. Let me tell you right here . . . that is the Number 1 item clients lie about when sitting in a hair chair. “I never colored my hair…the sun did it”, a bazillion and 1 excuses  . . . which to a trained hair stylist are laughable … let me tell you all right here, they go back to the color room and just shake their heads that you really think we are that dumb… we know exactly what has transpired 95% of the time. There is that 5% that I will still be baffled by. Which many times turn out to be a medical oddity, Henna, Sun-in, one of the horrid unhealthy hair treatments that for some reason are still on the shelves.
A virgin application is first time color – hair coloring on hair not previously color-treated.
For permanent hair coloring, there are 2 types of virgin application:

1. Scalp-to-ends
2. Double-application

The type of the color  service determines which is appropriate
Scalp-to-ends virgin application. For formulas the same level as, or darker than your natural base, the method of virgin application is scalp-to-ends { except for reds – yep there is always some silly exception ;-)  }. If you are matching your natural base (same color) . . .or, going darker than your base…and you are not using red - - then you just apply the color scalp-to-ends.

Double application method of virgin application.  For formulas lighter than the natural base level and bright formulas ( reds & light blonds) , application is always started about 1/2” – 3/4” off of the scalp { soooooooo many of you forget or skip this step…} From the heat of the scalp and “body” – the scalp area lifts quicker…so you must stay away from it at the beginning or you end up with banding. You must give the mid-shaft and ends a head start and application is started 1/2”  away from the scalp and allowed to process briefly before fresh color is applied to the scalp area. The lighter (+brighter) the formula the more important it is to use this double application method. Most of you go lighter. . . . so PLEASE take heed to this message and how it works.
I will never stop telling people to  read each manufacturers directions for their hair color. NO MATTER WHAT. I have been doing hair forever, I still . . . to this VERY DAY……….will fully read the manufacturers directions. Its funny, I ‘accidentally’ found out with this new BLONDOR that has come out from Wella, that there was IN FACT a completely separate product within the BLONDOR MAGMA family ( which BTW is what I include in the OIL BLEACH KITS….!)  When you see it all on the shelf I just grabbed 10 jars of every size….never even noticing that they had developed this new incredible (completely new)  blonding agent ( something I had thought of when MAGMA came out ) – which is a 1-step…LIGHTEN & TONE. I didn’t see it, it blended right in with the other products.  It wasn’t till a month later when I had a minute to sit down and read the accompanying literature…to see what if anything had changed about using the new Blondor ….something I have been using over 10 years….I learned about the BLONDOR MAGMA that day…. and came up with the oil bleach kit I use on my (limited) clientele….I still have a couple platinum-heads. It includes Cream bleach + Glammor Oil + Blondor MAGMA Powder + Developer….for a terrific On-The-Scalp Bleach Kit.

This method is used because it is easier  to make the scalp area light or bright and harder to make the lengths and ends. If applied straight to the scalp and all the way to ends with blonds or reds  the color will not be uniform the roots will be too light. Remember go for perfection, in all that you do…even in hair color. To achieve EVEN lightening, color is first applied to the hair that will take the longest: the middle shaft and the ends.
You’ve seen home bleach jobs  - - scalp area nearly white . . . and the lengths – yummy raw GOLD! ! ! Applied scalp –to-ends brought them there. I mean that just compounds the whole problem as it grows out as well….. the Gold /slash/ white stripe….. ever will blend correctly unless you get to a high dollar color correction specialist. Applied scalp to ends  high-lift tints also lightens more on the scalp so I also ALWAYS recommend that the same procedure be used .
There are 2 theories why the hair lightens(lifts) so much quicker  . . . I know it just boils down to the heat from the body…. not any of the other complicated reasons.
Watch for the next post on RETOUCH APPLICATION . . . which will be on TCE when we open this week!
Fun and facts on both fronts. . . . I promise.
Killer Chemist

Remember When the UnderCut was Limited to Those w/ the Unfortunate Title:Trailer Trash?

Rhiannon : now the POSTER GIRL for it – and Never Did I Think I Would Love It As I do

I just love this new cut
Its hard to see on this photo, but what ‘Undercutting’ refers to is the sides and lower part of the back are either shaved very close to the scalp OR as we do in Vidal Sassoon- use the Scissor-Over-Comb Technique of shaping the under hair very close to the scalp. Leaving the top section very long, so it kind of flips flops across the head[……..and that is kind of a cult trend hot in Europe right now, with Rhiannon bringing it to the states.
But it makes sense I guess, I’ve always thought ‘outside the box’ - - and this cut is nothing - -  if not - - - - outside-the-box!

They say this cut works best if you have an oval face shape with petite features…..to determine your face shape  —> look in the mirror - - draw around the shape of your face on the mirror with an old sharpie. . . . check the shape on the mirror. WALLLLLA!

The fashion forward trend of Undercutting has begun and I’m hoping it catches on here
This cut is for :

• fashion forward
• makes trends not follows them
• works on thick, fine,curly , or straight hair
• needs a striking color ( of any type)

  Rhiannon has had many fantastic version of the UNDERCUT . .




For some extra PIzazz in the color department the trend for the summer is the newest trend of using PASTELS. AS you see here:


The method for making pastel Krazy Kolors will be talked about in TCE: the new underground private Forum & Store that will be opening within the next week   . Please stay tundeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee


And Last but not least is the styling of the Undercut. You are going to need
VOLUME-VOLUME-VOLUME  …. of the long layers on the top
I would recommend 2 different products we carry for volume and hold … All I love
Kevin Murphy’s  - Anti.Gravity - - - which he advertises as “oil-free……….now remember my theory on all the years of hair products and skin products selling us “oil-free crap?
The reason it was ridiculous was because they were using silicone’s and esters which are not “classified” as Oils….and why was that any big deal???? Because Silicones and Esters are what they put in breast implants.. . . . and nothing clogs pores more than a “NON-OIL” such as silicone or ester. I always wished I could let everyone feel what a silicone felt like. You would never use them again.
Well, I was a tad leery of Kevin Murphy's oil-free claim although I have a lot of faith in every product he has..somebody  taught him right. But with ANTI.GRAVITY there are NO SILICONES + NO ESTERS…..there is lavender flower water, copolymers, honey extract, squalene, grapefruit seed extract . ….and on and on the ingredeint list is dynamite…. the way it works………….even better. Great Volume! Great Ingredients!
The other product? Schwarzkopf makes a whole host of excellent styling products…..I have loved every single one and they are probably the number one brand in southern California stylists…( I always have used a mish-mash of brands……But Schwatrzkopf’s OSIS LINE  has this amazing Spray Wax called AIR POMADE….light—Air-y- but with texture hold…non-greasy texture with natural shine and piece-y separation…TO DIE FOR. Just love it. I have always loved spray wax’s it leaves the hair in just the right texture….I LOVE IT>….
I will get this loaded on the store. . .  Asap. . .
Watch For TCE its getting Closer . . .   to REALITY I cannot believe it!

Hues got The Best Color?

Help maintain your hair color between Touch-ups

Bombshell Brunettes

One of the most common complaints of my fav. color hair? Fading ends and warm tones popping through. When hair is not in its best condition these things will happen….I can never say it enough, be sure your hair is dynamite condition at all times.
There is a Black Malva shampoo by Aveda ( that we don’t carry)  and conditioner that are infused with organic ingredients like black malva and black tea to intensify dark tones. I say that because it has been around a long time and I’ve always heard good things about it, I happen to love AVEDA products, although the last time I looked they hadn’t picked up on the sulfate-free ‘trend’ ( which it is not if you like the hair you have and want it to remain on your head.
I use SUDZZ Moxie Conditioner and mix a couple colors into the conditioner to come up with the tone you want your hair to be.
Wash hair with cleansing shampoo
So for brunettes we have :

• B-175W Wine Brown
• B10W  Bronzed Brown
• B13W  Medium Warm Brown
• B 11W  Medium Gold Brown
• B 121W Medium honey Brown 
• B 054N Light Neutral Brown  
• B052N Dark Neutral Brown
• B12D Medium Ash Brown
• B131D Medium Smokey Brown
• B18D Darkest BRown  
• B20D Blaclk

10,000 HEADS : 14-Step Regimen for Strong, Shiny Hair

The Single Most Important Step – NUTRITION

The food you eat and what goes in your body is simply the most important factor in changing the health and thickness of your hair. It is important to understand 10,000 HEADS works its wonders synergistically, practicing all the steps in unison, will give you optimum results, I have had some absolutely amazing stories come back to me. I am finding that people in other areas than LA, don’t think the importance of Nutrition is high enough. I cannot stress it enough; Nutrition; step1 will always be the most important step and is the backbone of the program.
This is also the single most difficult step to get women to follow through on. When changing food intake, it can take weeks or months for results to be apparent, many give up too early, feeling as though the change didn’t help. Hang in there, the change will come I have seen it over and over. As a scientist, as a Cosmetologist and as a Cosmetic Chemist, I survey thousands of heads of hair, paying attention to patterns and forming hypothesis on ‘why’ a particular person has a good head of hair and how it got to be that way, I came up with 3 common denominators of every person with enviable hair:

• excellent nutrition/eating habits
• no smoking, no drinking/drugs
• no weight issues - fairly stress-free
• no overuse or improper use of hair coloring technique

The misconception of the NUTRITION step is that you must be on a very specific ‘diet’ of certain items. Nothing could be further from the truth. This step does not restrict you from any foods; on the contrary, I ask that you follow a well balanced sensible diet that will contribute to the growth and health of your hair. 
So I encourage you to add foods that most likely you are not eating…Lots of Protein, Lots of Vegetables - -Lots of Water. Of course I do not encourage eating a lot of sugary, gooey, junk either. Be sensible. Try remembering this, “what goes in your mouth, shows up on your head” a terrific rule of thumb.
 
Forensics can use a one strand hair analysis to disclose just about everything on a person and it is extremely accurate - your hair is a reflection of your health – period. Don’t you think if 1 hair strand can tell you that much about a persons health, that it packs a punch much bigger than “looking pretty’??!
 
All foods you eat are eventually converted to simple compounds the body is able to utilize, glucose being the one that supplies the energy for all cellular reproduction – including the cells in the hair follicles (remember, follicle cell reproduction is one of the quickest in the body). So keeping the body nourished is imperative for healthy hair and for hair regrowth, starving yourself will shut down cell reproduction which in turn shuts down hair RE-GROWING.
The number 1 mistake that just about every person with hair problems makes is . . .lack of protein. Hair is made up protein and thrives on protein, listening to women over the years recite their diet choices, leaves me stunned with the same conclusion, their diets are what started their problems. Vegetarians have a very hard time having luxurious hair, they must put protein back in their daily diet, making sure to have it at breakfast, which is the most important meal of the day for your hair; do not skip it. Lunch is next in importance, again making sure that you include as much protein as you possibly can, strive for 50 grams of protein a day minimum.
I have found a terrific protein supplement online, it is the Lindora Clinic’s Protein bar, the taste earns the “delicious’ award, if you can believe that – and you can get a whopping 15 grams of protein out of some of the flavors http://shop.lindora.com/Protein-Bars-and-Snacks_stcVVcatId476054VVviewcat.htm  from Lindora medical clinic . The energy to your hair follicles gets depleted when you have gone for more than 4 hours without eating or snacking. Why would that matter? its difficult to explain without an entire encyclopedia of information behind it..but basically it boils down to……..the cells that reproduce in order to form a new hair strand occurs over and over all day long. If that energy is “broken” and not kept up????? Is what will cause hair thinning and hair loss. Remember the hair strand is terminal, it has an approx. 5 year life cycle on your head. When it finally does die off, you want that continuous Cycle to keep going without ANY INTERRUPTION. Eating small protein packed snacks will help there to be No interruption.
 
Other ideal snacks for your hair health are fresh fruit, raw vegetables, nuts, there is nothing better (or more convenient) than a handful of almonds or a protein bar for the shine in your hair.
Colourful fruits and vegetables added to the daily diet are a necessity as well. The best way to summarize it is to say; reach for the most colourful vege’s, picking some in each color category. No one eats sufficiently in this category and the only reason I can pinpoint is; they take too long to prepare. Which is a weak answer, in my book. But, it is what it is. The solution? Hit the Farmers market every week, it takes an hour-go immediately home: wash and prepare all the veges for the week. Carrot sticks, Celery &  p-nut butter, sliced cucumbers, lettuce for salads. Most everyone now-a-days is in a rush...this facilitates grabbing something good for your hair when there is no time.

If you smoke - QUIT- if for no other reason than you are killing your hair. . . that sounds harsh, but in essence – you are. Smoking robs your body of oxygen which in turn robs your hair of oxygen filled blood. . .whose job it is to nourish the hair follicle.
 
See the blood vessels and how they go to the base of the one hair follicle, that is the bulb inside, where the cell regeneration happens and the new hair grows. You don’t need to be a chemist to see that blood feeds the follicle; therefore what is IN the blood effects the hair. Likewise, for alcohol and drugs, if you drink too much – cut back or quit if it is a problem in your life – social drinking is fine. If you smoke too much dope, just remember why they call it dope, Pot is bad for hair, skin and nails, the sooner you quit the higher the likelihood you will have of its good qualities returning. When you get older ( 50’s-60’s) you start to notice the people that did not do any of these things when they were younger, the difference in their hair, skin and nails is nothing short of amazing. Be smart, quit now, while you’re ahead!
If you crash diet or have any of the disruptive habits of an eating disorder, your hair unfortunately, will be the first casualty. I spent 4 years volunteering at an Anorexia/ Bulimia live-in center, when the girls had a good week, they were allowed to get their hair coloured. The hair on some of those girls was irreparable; they had robbed their bodies of nutrients for so long that many of them could not recover the health of their hair, once cured . . .it was terribly sad to watch as many were very young. The cure came too late and no one had told them anorexia/bulimia was hell on hair. I feel that one fact alone would help prevent some of this disease, girls love their hair and hate to lose it.
Starving yourself, eliminating protein and neglecting certain food groups is not the way to a healthy head of hair. . . Plug protein into your diet, starting immediately if your hair is thinning or alopecia is your diagnosis. The change will not be apparent for a while but I assure you… it will come.
Food and a balanced diet is imperative for your hair to grow and re-grow, you must understand fully how the cycles work in order for you to see how absolutely necessary it is to eat correctly.
I believe NUTRITION is the Number 1 Step, and while no one wants to work on their nutrition, it is the most important of the 14 steps in gaining that strong – shiny – lustrous hair. Start with Baby Steps. . . just begin with carrots and protein bars……become accustomed to those. Begin with 2 glasses of water per day . . . working your way up as YOU and YOUR BODY can take it.
Happy Birthday America
Happy Birthday to US . . . be sure to HUG AN AMERICAN
Killer Chemist

Brush Versus Bottle, guess the Topic?

Wait for It………………

…Hair Color Application Methods

At the beginning of writing this blog, there were quite a few topics I was both oblivious and nieve about. This was one. Since youth I had always had my hair colored professionally – then switched to Vidal Sassoon Academy and that was my pretty limited exposure to how the HAIR World did things. 

• I never knew there was anything but foils to put hair color in…. the ole plastic cap and hook technique was a complete surprise to me
• Then finding out people applied hair color with a bottle had me puzzled as the next unknown

With a little research I found out:  The ‘bottle’ method of hair color application has been used as the longest form of color application. Seeing it the first time puzzled me, as it didn’t seem the easiest. I like “order”, steps and things done in a certain pattern with the "BOTTLE APPLICATION”, it was just kind of a free-for-all manner of application, which in hair color is not always the best. Cutting hair should be done in a strict pattern, coloring hair should be done in a pattern and applying color should as well. When applying the hair color, it may seem like as long as the color is in the vicinity it will saturate the hair strand, and that just isn’t the truth. 

When learning the Sassoon method of cutting or coloring hair they have broken the process down into geometry. At first those words ‘scared’ me, and it wasn’t until I had a little experience under my belt when I realized that way was actually the “easy way”.
Geometry works simply because you are working with a “ROUND” head and STRAIGHT hair strands growing out from it. Logically it makes sense.

Back in the day, hair color was mainly in bottles….so it was more ‘liquid-y’ than it is now. Almost every single hair color company (except Clairol) has switched to hair color in a TUBE in today’s world. When it was more liquid-y they could use a bottle for an applicator I suppose. But still, it is not the  #1 method for clean / clear / precise application.
With Hair Color in a tube, the color of today has more “pigment” in it, which of course results in better coverage, the problem is getting it applied smoothly and evenly. Which we have mastered via the Tint Bowl and Tint brush method.
When using a Tint Bowl 

you mix the hair color


with the Developer




with the TINT Brush


to a nice and creamy consistency. . . . . and apply using one end of the tint brush to part the hair into quadrants and then into sections . . . in order to press the hair color ONTO THE HAIR to be colored. The pressure from that brush makes those color molecules go through that cuticle and into that hair strand.
We are not talking “paint” here . . .
we are talking the chemical reaction of an OXIDIZED hair color
in order to have the best outcome, the most even glorious color, it needs to be applied with a tint brush.
Give up the old – dated - ‘makes-no-sense’ method. . . and splurge with the tint bowl and tint brush method
We have a great kit, check it out
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/10-piece-hair-color-kit