The Way Hair Color Works is Scientifically Magic to Me

1 Color = 2 Uses

To me? The only true “permanent” hair color is Bleach ( which I refer to as lightener) All Hair Color Tints, very lightly fade – every single one of them – there isn’t a tint made that doesn’t fade. I appreciate the fact they very lightly fade, I mean all the color I support and recommend comes out vivid, adds body and volume and a color resurgence. After 5-6 weeks of wear and tear the color fades to about the perfect point to either keep the same color, lighten it 1 level or darken it to pretty much any color of the rainbow. So the name “permanent” hair color is not only mis-leading it is completely wrong. If it remained that vivid for all 6 weeks, then you would have overlapping problems with hair tint the same that we have with bleach. So looking at the mild fadage that comes from 6 weeks between appointments, is a plus. Very few of my clients wanted to be the exact same color month after month. They would go a bit ( or a lot) lighter in spring/summer . .  going darker in the fall/winter months…it made that very easy to accomplish with the minor fading.

Hydrogen peroxide ( developer) is the OXIDIZER for permanent hair color, providing the oxygen for lightening of your natural pigment and for the development of the ‘ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT”. If any damage occurs to the hair strands… It is the hydrogen peroxide in permanent hair coloring – NOT THE AMMONIA – that would cause it. I am constantly trying to explain this difference to clients / readers.  With ammonia having such a strong and jarring odor, it is always taking the heat for the damage it brings to the hair strands when nothing could be further from the truth.

Top colorists realize that using the lowest Volume of peroxide (“for the job”) is the key and secret to minimizing any damage to the hair strands while coloring. Just yesterday, I was testing the brand new color line we will be carrying in the new Group : TCE…I had not re-colored the “lengths” of my own hair in over a year ! I applied the permanent color to my base and then mixed up this new line of Demi-permanent color for the lengths of my hair. 2 words:
Vivid….Velvet
My hair has never looked or felt better, I have never found hair color to be damaging….EVER. The one and only reason it would be damaging is if you are not applying it correctly and for that? Well? You will need to do some reading, join one of the 2 groups we offer, or get a consultation if need be…Because having properly colored hair is just a few steps away and I promise you its just not that hard. You must be ready to realize one of my most poignant statements:
NOT ALL PEOPLE CAN BE ALL HAIR COLORS; many need to compromise
The chemical shorthand for hydrogen peroxide, H2O2, means 2 hydrogen atoms and 2 oxygen atoms. Higher volumes of  Hydrogen Peroxide provide more oxygen for more extended lightening. Higher volumes create more lift and less deposit ; lower volumes create less lift and greater deposit. This is why better gray coverage is achieved with 20 Volume rather than 40 volume.
Some strength of hydrogen peroxide has to be used in to develop the dyes of permanent haircoloring.  Just to get the dyes to color the hair, an OXIDIZER has to be present.( In turn – peroxide all by itself will NOT lighten hair, either…it needs to react with ammonia –or similar ingredient- in order for efficient oxidation to occur. Peroxide, ammonia, and the dyes all need each other to get the haircoloring to work.
Something I found in the Salon, was that 95% of my clients, while all health nuts and environmentalist-types . . . when it came right down to it . . .what  they ALL really wanted was superb hair color and that is what I wanted to give them.  I would use permanent hair color pretty much most of the time, by using various Volumes of developer I could do anything with (so-called) permanent hair color. If you were to take a tube of Koleston Perfect permanent hair color . . .lets use one of my new favorites…
See below in this swatch chart. . . . 9/38  or  9GP Gold Pearl
       The GP colors have an iridescent violet base almost, so I love ‘em. 
The client has level 7 – 8 ASH Virgin hair she would like some Level 9 Ribbons & Drips added for the summer ( a very common request here in southern Cal.)  
 
Using 10/38 GP and 40 Volume using the proper foiling technique for the desired look , developing for 60 minutes . . . we would get the lightened pieces we were looking for.
rinse, light shampoo, In-Depth , TOWEL DRY…..
Say those strands were just a little brassier than you desired… you could also “tone” them using the exact same color…
how?
by changing the peroxide VOLUME…..by using 10Volume mixed with 10/38 GP – you have created a TONER ! ! See how versatile permanent hair color can be ? ? Depending on the amount of brass you would like to knock-down – Apply the 10/38 + 10V accordingly.
If the brass is just a ‘little’………… process for 10 minutes…a lot? Process for 35 minutes…Rinse ( NO SHAMPOO)  and style. You would NOT be able to do that with a semi permanent or Demi permanent line of color.  So that turns all of the level 9 and 10 colors of the Koleston Perfect Line of color we carry into TONERS. Which gives you such a wide selection I should have taught you this a very long time ago.
                                                                                                        The dyes in permanent hair color, all aniline derivatives or aniline relatives of various types, are most of all indirect dyes, which must undergo oxidation in order to color the hair. These are also called dye precursors or intermediates. The dye intermediates are tiny, colorless dye molecules that develop into large, colored molecules when oxidized. Hydrogen peroxide is required as an Oxidizer (developer) .  
Shortly after the dye-bearing cream is combined with the developer ( peroxide) – dye molecules begin developing, rearranging into bigger, complex, colored molecules. That is the number 1 reason  hair color should not be mixed until just before application – that and the fact that the lift cycle is underway soon after mixing. Color Deposit and lifting capability begin ticking away approx. 10 minutes after the colorant is mixed - -  which gives you 10-20 minutes to apply the product.
The tiny size of the dye precursors ‘before’ oxidation enables them to  pass easily into the cortex of the hair, penetrating it fully. As, the color processes………..the tiny dye molecules change  structure, beginning to form bigger larger  -- colored molecules.. These newly created dye molecules , now  - -  are too big to leave the way they came in, affix themselves to the keratin chains in the hair.
I suppose the most distinct and remarkable trait of a permanent hair color? This is the only category of hair color that “lightens” virgin hair. Think of how often you have wanted to lighten your hair???….. As a Colorist, I would venture to say,75% of all my color work is “lighter”. That is a lot.
There fore  this is a super important hair color category to be concerned with
Happy Memorial Day- - Hug a Soldier
KC     

Twinkle, Twinkle : Stars with No Make-up ?

Now if we can just get them to drop the fake hair

TV & Movie Stars are exposing themselves to the public with no make-up, and proving what they really look like. In first noticing this trend earlier this week w/ Jessica Simpson on the cover of Marie Claire {completely bare} – I found a trace of hope

Now here is the most wonderful and inspiring trend, I just had to Post about – in the middle of my “Hair Color Correction Series { I promise we will return quickly}
Simpson not only was the first to do the above bold move, she also completed a new series on VH1, that I encourage everyone to watch. A show on Beauty habits from around the world. . . completely unique and groundbreaking. Worth the 30 minutes, I promise.

There is a specific reason I don’t pepper KillerStrands Blog with Celebrity Hair, receiving requests for it all the time, its hard to “Not Do”. My reason is purely for all of you. You should see what the trailer or dressing room of any one celebrity looks like in preparation for a hair shoot or a day of shooting: rows and rows of hair strips, weaves of every type and length of hair style imaginable. The figure is: about 80% of all hair you see on TV/Film is manufactured hair.
Wigs, extensions, clip-in’s, glue-in’s, they have really gone insane with the whole manufactured hair thing. So many people look up to Celebrities, with knowing so many personally, I truly feel it is a 100% disadvantage to YOU – the public to use them as a guide for what to “strive-for”. We all must work with what we have been given. Majority of the photo shots I use on Killer Strands are real women with their own REAL hair, growing out of their own head! Just like you and me!
Now what they need to do is to send Simpson, Kardashians,Wendy etc., etc…to the photo sessions without all their extensions, pieces, weaves, and wigs. Some of the wigs they use today are from $5,000. - $50,000. with the average one checking out around $25,000.!
Cher was the pilot of this program, in the 80’s she was wearing wigs 95% of the time. Know why?
PURELY to protect her own hair from lights, make-up, heat, sweat, elements, you know all the bad things out there. I still remember thinking…”wow she must be paranoid”. Turns out she had it nailed and the rest of us hadn’t a clue - - She has always had a wig room in her homes . . . which is the size of a master bedroom to you and me. But I commend her for knowing what truly affects hair and in taking control of her own body and protecting it. She still wears wigs to this day, (her own locks have been tinted a special Black/Violet for years & she only has about 3% gray – she too, knows the advantage of great color), and her own hair is as glorious and magnificent as it was in her youth. Smart woman my dear Cher.

So rejoice in the new trends, and demand to see real(unmanufactured hair), I know for an absolute fact that most of you have just as healthy of hair as most Celebrities out there. They all cheat, a LOT with their wig rooms and personal hairstylists they cart with them from city to city . But when I saw some of the photos of the celeb’s this morning on the news with their absolutely unmanufactured face, I was very disappointed they forgot the most important part  < the hair ! >…make them take their fake hair off too, I was yelling at the TV. NOT FAIR!

Great hair can make up for a lot  misfortunes, one has to endure in any given day. I have heard that every single woman on planet earth has copped to having at least 1 bad Hair Day. . . but I have never heard them complain of having a “bad skin day”.

I sure hope someone will be brave enough to step forward with the Glamour shot of any ( or all ) of these women with their 100% own real hair, so the public may truly see what they look like bare and La Naturele as most of us end up being a majority of the time.
Killer
Chemist

Shear Genius meets the Perfect Storm : Houston, We Have A Problem

Hair Color Correction …….. I-Color

Hair Color Correction: the # 1 subject people head to the Internet searching the category of HAIR for . Problem is, most of you have never heard of that term, it has not been used enough publicly so 90% of people don’t know what to “SEARCH” for. Another one of those subjects that are not taught to the client. Whether you went to Wal-Mart – bought a boxed color, slapped it on yourself or headed to an expensive Colorist who sent you home telling you “ how the lighting was off” and you would love it tomorrow…BOTH are in need of Color Correction. Slap that term in your Blackberry, everyone seems to need it at one point in their life.
Very rarely do I see the proper information about how and what to do in this situation therefore I want to concentrate on this subject and different angles of it over the next couple of Posts. Eventually I would like to answer all questions so we have one complete folder on the subject. Sound Oovy Groovy?
Lets start with the basics Causes
of Color Correction
Prevention: if possible will always be preferable to Correction. Some corrective work can be avoided some cannot.
Next, the emphasis needs to be put on the area that it should always be put in all aspects of hair color : Analysis & Communication. It is very difficult to correct something, if you are not even sure what the problem is. I am going to make up a sort of Corrective Hair Color Trouble Shooter, for there to be a sort of quick reference, so Killer Stranders will be able to figure out a direction to turn to in each particular case.
When people begin to start their own personal hair color horror-stories that sound like a longer version of War & Peace, they lose me after about the 5th sentence. Why? To be perfectly honest?
The only thing that matters in color Correction is: VID
VIRGIN: What is your Virgin level?
IS: What IS your hair color level/tone now?
DESIRED: What do you DESIRE your level/tone to look like ?
Yes, for finer tuning we should always use the rest of the Killer8 ( elasticity, condition,texture, gray ? etc…) But truthfully it can be accomplished perfectly fine with just answers to the VID 3…..as long as what???????????????????????????? Adem??? As long the 4th question is answered: have you applied Henna, or Sun-In or any color with metallic salts (like JUST-FOR-MEN boxed hair color – BIG BAD NO on that – never,never,NNNNNNEVER!)

PRINCIPLES OF COLOR CORRECTION
1) Hair that needs to be lightened if too dark
2) Hair that needs to be darkened if it is too light
3) Changing the unwanted existing artificial color tone to suit your desires
Again, this does not mean that all color correction has to be a long drawn-out affair: it could turn out to be a quick process, so assessing your hair correctly is very important.
The one lucky part you have of doing this to yourself, is you will know the truth. I cannot tell you how many people come in and sit in a Stylists chair and ‘fib’ about what happened, what was involved, or the most common: will say a Stylist screwed their hair up and truthfully it was by their own hands. 50% of Stylists will not be able to figure out the truth, but the rest of us have sit there biting our tongues.
In the case of heading to a Colorist: My best advice?
cut the crap and tell the truth.
For today I am going to give you a list of questions to ask yourself. So many of you get all hung up on this brand and that brand name throwing in Volumes and time’s - - when none of that matters, once the damage is done
It is……………….What It IS

Here is a list of important questions that I would truthfully, sit down on that pretty ass of yours and ask yourself . . . it will help you keep on the right track and focus on what I would if your ass was in my chair :

• How did you like your last color?
• Did you want to keep the same color?
• What Tones do you really dislike?
• In your head point by use of a photo as to what YOU thinks “Ash” means ….or “warmth”…so much is lost in 1 person’s translation of a single world than anothers. Use photos, If you are doing this exclusively yourself, get a second opinion on what someone views your idea of “Golds”. Your thoughts and ideas may need adjusting – be open to it
• Would you like a slightly lighter shade?
• Confirm your idea’s of the Level System – and your Stylists, they could be completely different. . . or yours and knowing full well and good that Wella’s European lines (Color Touch and Koleston Perfect are 1 full level darker than any other line )
• Do you want it darker?
• Remember, pinpointing the problem is 1/2 the battle
• What do you think about using a few lighter slices, ribbons, panels, or ropes ?
• What change are you seeking?
• Do You think subtle effects are more your style?
• There is always what I refer to as either : “sticker shock” or “Color Hangover“ ( my fav) which does not mean the price nor the inhalation of chemicals, it means the shock of having a different color hair, it will undoubtedly be a shock to any- and every-one when the change is more than 3 levels. 60% of the time – If I really believe in the color I will ask them to go home and sleep off their Color Hangover – 9 times out of 10 I never hear back from them till the next time they come rolling in happy as pie. Don’t initially panic….I know it can be hard….but remember, its only hair.
• What colors do you like wearing?
• How do you feel about your hair today?
• If your hair was perfect, what would it look like?
• Which Celeb’s hair is close to your hair type ( including most factors) ? Ask someone else if they agree
• Reality sometimes is a bit of a walk from Hopes and Dreams. As fun as Hopes and Dreams are . . .REALITY is your best friend when dealing with hair color.

Now remember the idea here is to assess the situation correctly in order for the Color Correction to go perfectly.
Remember one of my favorite lines:
Chemistry/Chemicals don’t make mistakes – People Do

Color Change is the reason I got into this gig at all in the beginning. When ever I did anything that had no artist expression to it, I felt cheated – I felt something missing…its weird how you have ZERO control over that.
A colorist is like a composer, I’ve always felt that nothing moves the human spirit more than music. I can hear a song that will truly stop me in my steps and I HAVE to find out who it is in order to get that feeling back in my soul that just occurred…its almost addictive when an awesome song rings through my ears. For example it hit me numerous times this week: it was JAY-Z and Mr Hudson’s version of FOREVER YOUNG – that he dedicated to Betty White on SNL
…. Just took my breath away……….Thank the Lord up above for I Tunes, just makes my day sometimes.
Once I began coloring heads of hair and looking at them as works of art.. I began getting that “deep-in-the-soul” feeling as well. Now color affects me a close second to music. Where is Jobs when you need him?
I-Phone……I-MAC…….I-PAD…..…. I-COLOR

The 2 share so many of the same terminology: A scale has 7 different notes, white light has 7 different colors. These 7 notes (chromatic colors) of the color spectrum give the composer (colorist) unlimited opportunities for creativity. Hue corresponds to the notes, value to the scale, and chroma to the pitch. Like notes come together to form a beautiful melody,all the elements of light and energy join to create the visual sensation, I know as color.

Almost like fingerprints: No 2 heads of HAIR are alike. . . and That my dear friends is why there are not 55 books on how to color hair for the public or anyone for that manner.
Anyone that knows a lot about it, knows what a risk it is planting ONE SOLID formulation for a level 7Ash head of hair to end up a level 12 platinum.
I sure as Hell would never give 1 answer to that question.
What would I say?

…….. STRAND TEST
killer chemist

TOMMY–TONER, EENIE – MEENIE—MYNEE – MONOR – This Is How You Have A Blonde With Honor and a Great TONER

With Spring and the new Blonde’s being settled I realized that I must begin getting my favorite class of colors in line for you. I feel if I get them in line and give away some of my secret formula’s I will get all the Blonde’s KS has as regulars playing around with their light locks. I mean how much fun is that, to have light enough hair to play around with new Toners every other week or so. It’s one of my favorite past times with my bleach ‘n’ tones ( I”m not afraid of bleach – in fact many times its the right tool for the job “please see my recent post in Group, in which I lost my cool on…!!!!”) as well as with my high-lifts.
Back at the ole corral ( Sassoon ) we would have days of boredom and come up with the craziest of experiments – may days were drawing color names out of a hat and having to go make that toner for a blond. I mean that may sound easy, but when someone writes, “ light turqoise blue” ( which we named “St. Barts”) it really is not that easy. Especially when its a contest, and you have 20-40 eager beaver Colorist’s chomping at the bit.
First of all one must have a stable ( notice todays “cowboy” theme!! ha ha – after that dear post in the Group) of “counter” toners. Your basic toner that will knock a lot or a teeny tiny bit of brass right out of that hair strand. We would Tone everything, I know many of you go by the rule, “ if there is ‘no yellow’ we need “no toner”… That is not really the professional way of doing things.

WE ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLWAYS TONE BLONDS. Why? Because that is the professional and TOP NUMBER 1 manner in which you should send someone out into the world that has either paid for one of 2 services:
1) Bleach and Tone. This does not say, only ‘tone’ if need be…it says BLEACH and when finished with that TONE the hair - - PERIOD.
or
2) HighLift blond and Tone: same here, we ALWAYS tone. Why? Because toning is professional. Toning is the Icing on the cake. Can you imagine getting a cake with NO ICING ? ? ? ? TO us, it is the SAME --- EXACT---- DIFFERENCE. In England they always tone and would ever send a blond out of the Salon without a toner, it just is not done at the level of hair / hair color that I teach – and perform so when you go blond in my chair, you leave with your hair pH balanced – TONED- Conditioned and AWESOME. For all you Stylists out there, if you want to bring in and keep every single client that sits their pretty little butt in your chair….follow my lead. I promise you, people appreciate your passion for your work.
Yes, I do understand money constraints, but after watching people for 15 years give me that excuse and then walk in with a $400 Handbag, or their face newly frozen from BOTOX, I truly do not have much sympathy for peoples’ excuses for hair and their finances….so please don’t waste them on me.
People who are truly poor are not coloring their hair AT ALL. I find it fascinating that so many of you think I was born yesterday and you are pulling the wool over my eyes. NOPE , I’m laughing on this side when an excuse is given to me – I want you to know that. If you are involved on this site and ordering from KS, you are not that poor. You know how I know? I’ve been there. YES, I’ve had wealth and riches…..but I have also had a dirt poor and impoverished life at an older age, as well.….having both teaches you a lot about life. I never seem to do anything small. . . .its always big. I was poor in a big way. I know what you think about when money is a issue……..and it is not YOUR HAIR.
So – back to Toners….and what they are all about ? ? …there is no easier color to put on in the world. IT DOES NOT STAIN the hands, so NO GLOVES….. They are a wonderful easy-to-apply consistency, so its a joy to put on. . . . and most of the times you will get 2 applications out of 1 tube. (Long (thick) hair needs a full tube). What’s not to like about them? Only 1 thing…
THEY DON’T LAST AS LONG AS WE WISH THEY DID!
But they are working on that ( SO AM I ! !) Watch for my tips….
Now in today’s Post, I will run 2 of my to 7 lines of Toners by you.Toners that will kill any remaining brass/yellow/gold and give your hair that amazing Beige-Blond of a Reece Witherspoon – Gwen Stefani blond.
I have used all of these since Academy. My mentor taught me to make the TONER, my best friend, and I did. It has paid off well, I promise.

I’m going to start with all the Color Touch Toners ( a LOT) and the MATRIX Toners, one that I named “marilyn” a very long time ago . . . as I feel on many people it gives you the blond of Monroe. Now remember with Toners, it depends on what you are putting it on. Toners are OPAQUE. Think of a NYLON you are putting on a leg, that is toned with beige color….you can still see the leg and its color, but it now has a beige ‘cast’ to it, doesn’t it ? ? Now if you were to take that exact same leg with the same tone and apply a Black toner…..it would appear Gray-ish,wouldn’t it ? ? ? Why? Because the Leg was Beige (virtually an off-white) mixed with Black equals Gray. That is how Toners work – they are transparent/opaque. They always use either a 5-6-10 or 15 Volume Developer.
Matrix has a line called COLOR SYNC. These are the same toners I have been using for 15 years - - they just gave them a new box – a new name but thank the Lord they left the formula alone, except for adding CERAMIDES, whenever you see CERAMIDES, just know its a VERY VERY GOOD ingredient for hair.

3 MATRIX -- COLOR SYNC TONERS -- SHEER PASTELS – Demi-Permanent Toners

• SPV..SHEER PASTEL VIOLET: my number 1, if you are confused just use this one you can’t go wrong. Its Sheer/ has violet to ‘counter’ any brass/ yellow/ gold …..leaves hair well balanced.
• SPN…SHEER PASTEL NEUTRAL : Excellent neutral looking for that blonde BEIGE…so popular now.
• SPA … SHEER PASTEL ASH : Another Ash to counter those DURP’s so many of you have..
• GWEN / MARILYN … is a mixture of SPV + SPN , the ratio ? 1:1 – which means 1 oz. of SPV + 1oz of SPN : MIX = Add 2 oz. of 10 or 13 Volume

ALL 3 of these I use constantly/daily… When you are a Top Colorist, information like this (which toners I used to produce such Killer BLONDS) were kept very TIGHT LIPPED – as everyone does….its just part of the game.

I never told anyone this info. I even confused my assistants on purpose, the last thing you want to do is give 4 brand new up and coming Hair Stylists all your secrets that have taken you years to gather. Lucky all of you . . . I don’t know one Stylist of my caliber that would do this. So please, treasure the information. I am an overachiever, a passionate artist who gives this information with the hope that many of you will use it to better your hair color - - better the hair color knowledge you use at your Salon.

One of my goals way back when …..I was in Academy . . . my girlfriend and I said ( naively – VERY naively) , “hey, lets cure all the bad color/ bad hair in the USA”……. we shook on it, we were very excited about that prospect…..I recall that moment all the time while writing this BLOG. Snicker at the thought of it.

Bleach/tone

I mean I used to try to cure all the bad hair I could I was much more lenient with so many of my tricks and education once I got into the Salon world than any other Stylist.

The Salon world and the Academy world are completely DIFFERENT WORLDS! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

But to think I could actually cure all the bad color/bad hair of America myself, was just so insanely naive. Who knew I would end up ill, that I would be forced into quitting the job I had plans of going to the top in.

But, the funny part is……………………………

I would never have reached as many people as I do through this Blog, our Group ( closing in on 2000 ) and the STORE . . .working any other way. !!! FUNNY HOW LIFE GOES………

This is the way I will reach the most people and hopefully do the most good. . . and who would’ have figured that one out ! !Level 9

Back to Toners and the importance of them…. many of you slough them off, I hope to inspire some to try them, I have never tinted a blond without using a toner. I would feel like I hadn’t finished the job…I was lucky and had assistants to help and they would all fight over who got to apply the toners (!!), so that end of the procedure was covered for me. I always applied the color to my clients ( yet the Assistants would mix to my spec’s - - and then comb through – add the plastic cap and rinse after I checked it,….. right when I was forced to quit… I had finally built a well-oiled machine, it was just such a shame to losLEVEL 8

The next Set of Toners I would suggest:

Color Touch has the most TONERS for 1 Single Line:

• 8/0 N ….….. Turns out a level 7 because of the Wella chart,being a full level darker than ours
• 9/0 N ….…...A Level 8 Neutral Toner
• 10/0N ….…. Equals Level 9 Neutral always use 6 Volume
• 9/01NA….… Natural Ash = an 8
• 10/01NA ….. Natural Ash = gorgeous level 9, now with the CT Toners many times I will mix 1/2 6Volume & 1/2 13Volume which gives you about a 10 – lasts longer SPECIFY if you want….1/2 & 1/2 Volume
• 10/1A…….. Lightest Blonde Ash
• 9/16AV…….ASH VIOLET - a level 8 excellent
• 10/81PA…..Pearl Ash – again equals a level 9
• 10/6 V……..Lightest Blond/Violet – Awesome level 9
• 10/73BG…..lightest blond/brown gold – watch that gold although this is as “gold” as I recommend
• RELIGHTS
• /86 PV……..Pearl Violet – another perfect color and is MADE to be a toner….

all the colors are visible on the Wella Color Touch Page in the Store, just click on this link

:Color Touch Line of Hair Color : Killer Strands Store

I apologize to those of you that are not blonds, but truthfully we sell blonds 20 to 1 in any other colors…..its funny BLACK is the number 1 hair color in the world but you would not know it by our numbers.!
Always – always consider using a toner, no matter what your color. . .I can’t wait to teach you some of the SECRET-SPY TONERS. . . . a LA KC
Level 9/16AV
Killer
Chemist

Oils and Your Hair - Part 2

Ayurvedic Medicine and Your Hair

 
From what I gathered about this new technique : of adding oils to a world I had tried to keep them away from for years, it seemed going slowly at first would be wise. They use both internal addition of oils and external …. THAT is how much they believe in them. Which never stops amazing me, if you are like me you searched high and low for oil-free products for everything… hair, skin, lips, legs, arms, you name-it oil was “bad for it”. The day I realized what all these major companies were using IN PLACE of oils ( silicones & esters) I promise you I nearly cried. I still think people do things for “good” not just for $$.
Its a tough one to crack………….. a 30 year habit…………..…the funny part is: that more people haven’t realized what I have,  way before me. Regardless . . . we now have the knowledge. So with GLISTEN or GLAZE or one of the other new oils that will slowly be showing up in the store begin doing a slow massage on your own body for just a few minutes every day. That can go a long way toward promoting health and natural radiance…so try to make time for it every … single … day. Remember that one Step of 10,000HEADS that is SO important that I rarely speak of . . .Stress-relief. This ‘oil’ addition will add so much to the health of your hair and skin that I may be moving it into its own step.

Dryness according to ayurveda, is hazardous to your health . It can cause dryness & roughness in the body in the form of dry skin, coarse & THINNING HAIR ( hello ), a hoarse voice, arthritic joints and mental disorders.  The Dr. I met said , “ A dry stick is easy to break - - - -  but if the same stick is put in oil - - it becomes bendable and flex’s easily” - - I will never forget that comparison.  Oil inhibits dryness, plain and simple. Its always so fascinating to me when I discover that so many of the tricks I have learned throughout my journey with hair, always seem to go back to the basics, back to holistic – healthful living . . .  and the really funny part is, that when you do???? They actually work. GLEAM., GLISTEN, GLAZE. . . . all  miracle workers if you ask me.
Since I started massaging my legs/arms with Glisten everyday - - I promise you the skin has cleared up almost completely all the skin deformities of my history ( radiation – 14 surgeries – the leg was a mess) they gave me at least 5 different prescription creams – non of which worked . Its been 2 months and I now look forward to the application, I must be honest > I didn’t the first week. But the change in my skin was so nice, the improvement so overwhelming – I would be a fool not to crave it. Truly.Oil inhibits the drying qualities you get, there is nothing else that would do that. The Indians believe that all parts of the body are connected, much more than we do, but we must try to learn from them. They believe if you are to cure a problem on your skin with oil massage it will travel through the body’s intricate system and repair other parts that are out of whack. Make sense? I thought it did.
Glisten also has this crazy – wonderful scent to it ( my own concoction) Whipped Creme + Fresh Orange Dreame (which is 94% organic ingredients) , that is just slight & mysterious enough to catch a whiff of for about 3-4 hours. Usually am not a fruity person, but I feel this might surprise you. I have been working on my natural perfumery works that I plan on bringing to you in the  near future as well.  I fully realize its nothing to do with hair, after I saw the list of what goes in a perfume . . .it was another “oh no” moment for me. Now with having this Blog if I am going to do it for myself - - I might as well take you with me on the journey to find wonderful natural scents I might as well take you along for the ride.

Even though there really isn’t any equivalent to these oil treatments in western medicine, the results of ayurvedic treatments are so helpful for stress-related problems there really needs to be. I cannot tell you the amount of times clients would sit in my chair. . .  I would take one touch/see/feel of her hair after 6-7-8  weeks and say ‘what happened this month’ ?  I could tell by their hair if they had a rough month, because once everyone was on 10,000HEADS: their hair was superb. Any rocks in the road were because they fell off the wagon for a month, couldn’t get the Secret Supplement where they were traveling  but 9 times out of 10 it was because the STRESS for the month was just over the top. The correlation between STRESS and hair thinning is real….VERY VERY REAL, in my opinion – which is why 3 of the Steps really do pertain to getting you and your head into a peaceful Level while awake. I feel it affects the health of your hair. On the other hand using the S/S, GLEAM and THRIVEN can honestly solve the hair thinning repercussions from that, so never think there isn’t a solution. Which truthfully works fairly quickly. 
                                                                                                       Oil eliminates the build-up of toxins in the body and strengthens the body’s vital energy . Oil nourishes the internal energy responsible for a radiant appearance.  BEAUTY IS BALANCE AND PEACE OF MIND. In order to achieve that you must  attempt to achieve balance in mind, body and spirit.

There are specific oils that the Indians use for Oleation, but I am just going to recommend that any of you interested in adding an extra boost for helping hair loss / thinning and damage to use 1 Tablespoon of either Olive Oil or Flaxseed Oil. These are the 2 oils we have been testing the past 3 months and everyone feels an improvement of one kind or another. Whether some were skin – others were hair, me? again I had both improvements.
One month I used Flaxseed, now I’m on Olive Oil, 1 Tablespoon in the morning and one at night.  Because of my illness I have this lackluster to my hair. . . and although my hair is to my elbows and of medium thickness and yes, red…..there was very little of its own shine. Of course I know how to give it shine….all the tricks. What I noticed personally ( I realize this is as about as far from scientific as it comes – but at least its 100% honest) was some of my old shine returning after about 40 days of ingesting the oil daily . . . 2 out 8 friends agreed with me……2 men really felt like their hair filled in, in the area I have always called the “bowling alleys” – where men’s hair tends to recede first. So you might want to note that as well. I would definitely say  ingesting 2 Tablespoons of either Olive or Flaxseed oil every single day will do nothing but improve the head of hair you have. All of us have been on 10,000 heads for years, so we aren’t exactly the perfect people to be testing this. I would love to test it on someone who has not been following the 14 steps – but I can’t find it in my heart to even say those words! you know though - -  Just for comparison.

The one part of this I simply don’t have the time – space or room to go into here is this: the Indian culture believes that all of us have a basic ‘constitution’ of our body that is determined at the moment of conception . . . and it relates to your genetically inherited physical and emotional qualities. I believe strongly in genetics and the strength of them so this system they have I believe whole heartedly in.
They call it DOSHA’s.      There are 3 DOSHA’s : VATA – PITTA and KAPHA.
I encourage you to take this test to find out which Dosha you are? Please click on this link and take the test>
TEST YOUR DOSHA QUIZ Click Here
I’m a VATTA-PITTA . . . . why don’t you see what you are ??

Dosha’s specifically relate to those qualities, characteristics and tendencies that are stable. For instance, while you may experience temporary changes, like gaining or losing ten pounds, feeling nervous or irritable, developing a cold or flu, etc., in the natural course of life you will never gain or lose five inches on your height or experience a change of eye color. 

There are three main doshas or forces: Vata, Pitta and Kapha. These are loosely translated as Air, Fire and Earth, respectively. Each of us has all three doshas in our constitution, in unique proportions. In Ayurveda, seven dosha-predominant Prakritis are described: Vata-predominant, Pitta-predominant, Kapha-predominant; three dual Prakritis, where two doshas are equally , you know what lets forget this . . . . . . Now its getting too confusing and THAT is what I don’t want to do. TOO confusing and you lose people, especially ME!
TEST Your Dosha Here
Knowing your DOSHA can help you maintain optimal health and by following this link you can take it ONLINE and it will give your DOSHA, all computerized. I could not transfer the test to this small space. So you must leave to take it but then you can return. Truthfully it does not need to be that complicated either. If you simply add a GLISTEN massage to your  legs/arms/belly morning and night 1 Tablespoon of Flaxseed oil and Olive oil you are good to go. Just wanted to put the DOSHA test in for those that want to get more involved. Personally I’m just doing the mellow version, the versio I just described. Maybe we have an Indian member that would like to add to my post or write a post  educating us even more on this for us . . . please email us KillerTrinity3@aol.com ( or maybe even correct me if I have something wrong).

I read numerous stories about people having difficulties sleeping receiving a 7 day course of Panchakarma from an Ayurvedic  Physician. All of them were cured. The treatments included the following : morning and night oil massages {arms,legs & belly}, + oil enemas ( with specific oils) one of my test subjects found oil enemas online and she tried them ( no fancy oils were added) which worked wonderfully for her(!), and then 2 Tablespoons of drinking GHEE (Indian oil – clarified butter) substitution: Olive or Flaxseed Oil daily for 7 days.  All reports were they had never slept so soundly and had a hard time rising in the morning. TTTTTTTTTTTTTTry this PLEASE if that is an issue for you. No drugs, no crap that is bad for your body.
In PANCHAKARMA, soothing and detoxifying oils are used to penetrate the body’s largest organ - - -  the SKIN. This releases toxins deposited in fat cells and drives them to the colon for elimination. The goal is not only to detoxify the body but to regain harmony between the body’s three subtle biological forces or DOSHA’S : VATA, PITTA and KAPHA. Insomnia is a VATA disorder once you make the VATA go down… the body is in better balance. This system has been at work within the Indian culture for way over 5,000 years, I am a believer in: ‘the longer you work at something the better you get’. . . The Indians have been working on this 4800 years longer than we have even been in existence. There is nothing wrong with listening to another culture, especially one that looks and sounds so healthy .

We must learn that JUST panchakarma won’t permanently cure insomnia or high stress ( both imbalances of a DOSHA) – You must also borrow from the other steps of 10,000HEADS and be sure to get exercise ( preferably YOGA, walking – am a huge believer of walks with no electronics….and cardio of some sort . .whether it comes from a brisk walk of 40 minutes . . . or bicycle riding is another Gold star recommendation of mine ) 
All of those are imperative . . .the body is going to become imbalanced now and then - - you cannot stop stress from the outside. You have to develop daily routines that help you body and mind cope. . . . when your body is in balance your skin and hair will THRIVE - - I promise you.

So many of us are so strict with ourselves – pushing so hard at work, at family… at everything but what we should be doing and that is taking care of our body so that we CAN take care of all the other things easily and healthfully.
LISTEN TO YOUR BODY>
DONT PUSH YOURSELF SO HARD that you are FORCED TO relax because you CRASH.
In Ayurveda, lifestyle has a direct influence on the balance of the DOSHA’s and your susceptibility to disease. Maintaining a home OIL routine is important but it can’t replace eating well, exercising and getting enough rest. Your home routine can, however, strengthen your defenses during periods of intense stress.
The Indian system also emphasizes respecting your body’s natural rhythms by eating and sleeping at regular hours. Ideally, meals are to be eaten with no distractions and late nights avoided. Both of these are steps I must constantly remind myself of, I hope you will to. Adopting just these simple little practices will pay off, both physically and emotionally. Not only will you feel better and LOOK better, you’ll also enjoy the soothing and rejuvenating effect of oil application.
OIL MASSAGE CAN PREVENT AGING FOR A VERY LONG TIME , says Ayurvedic skin care expert Pratima Raichur. . . and here you thought you needed to save up $800. for a BOTOX shot ! I have been terrified of those my entire life, the thought of shooting toxic parts of a cow in my face just truly horrifies me, I’ve never been brave enough….although I am probably the only person in my area without them!
There are 6 main types of OLEATION

1) Self massage. As we have spoken about . .  using GListen warmed up a little – massage in small circles on the limbs and on the joints especially. The abdomen & chest should be massaged in clockwise circular motion. You can do this before your shower . .  even if you only do it for 5 minutes, the magic has begun.

2) Head massage 2-3x weekly ( for all DOSHA types) – rub warm Glisten / Gleam / Glass ( coming soon) into the head all over massaging the scalp with the fingertips. You can also take small sections of the hair and pull them taut to give yourself a bit of a jolt. This enables the oil to get into the root and hair bulb giving the growth sequence of the next new hair a healthier base to form on. This is best done when you can leave that oil on the hair for a minimum of 1 hour prior to showering for ultimate benefits.
3) Nasal massage  this clears the sinuses performed 1-2X per week. Lie down, face up, with your head resting on the side of the bed so your nose is at a lower level that your throat. Use a dropper ( request one with any oil from KS) to insert 2-4 drops of warm oil into each nostril. massage the sides of the nose in an upward direction. Remain still for one minute so the oil doesn’t drain in the throat.  Helps many with sinus problems . . .  give it a try . . . .
4) Ear Oleation  Oiling the ears keeps your sense of hearing in top shape and helps balance VATA. the oil also calms jaw tension. Use little finger to rub a drop or 2 of oil on the openings of the ear canal. Or apply oil to a cotton ball and rub the ear openings
5) Oil mouthwash ! Yep you read it right! BEFORE brushing your teeth gargle with a teaspoon of warm GLAZE (our Sesame oil either with or without lemon). Swish it around in your mouth and rub the gums with your index finger and the oil. Doing this daily is wonderful for the teeth and gums.
and lastly is the
6) Internal Oleation – which is ingesting 1 Tablespoon of oil either Olive or Flaxseed. Both excellent. Now the oly reason you would NOT want to do this …. is if you have high cholesterol . . . so if that is an issue for you please hope over to your doctors and ask them – I bet you can even call the nurse and she would be able to tell you.
Using the proper oils for your skin type… just a few minutes each day… can go a long way toward promoting health and natural radiance
nothing is better than NATURAL RADIANCE
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