Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing

 I have a number of Consultations going on at any one time and you will be surprised why I do them really. I like to keep very up-to-date with what everyone is or is NOT understanding as far as my hair color Education Posts on this Blog go.  Therefore when I go through a couple Consultations and I listen to what the people do and do not understand it makes me try to RE-TEACH a subject so that maybe if I approach it from a different angle then maybe more of you will understand it better and more clearly.

For example the "types of Hair Color"
 - right when I feel I have taught it from every single angle possible a person in my  consultation explains how they don't understand what the difference is between Semi-Permanent hair color and Demi-permanent and that could create a gigantic problem that I certainly don't want to be the cause of.....
So when I repeat subjects it is because I want you to read this description from another angle....

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... these color molecules may be removed by shampooing...
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Temporary hair colors are available in a variety of colors & products such as:

• color rinses applied weekly to add color
• colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
• hair mascara
• special effects
• color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : like Boost & BURST

2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
 Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo. This is exactly what BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos and conditioners are....

Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.
In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.





3} Demi Permanent Hair Color
 The #1 and most important difference between Semi & Demi is..............Demi is when you begin using Developer. Semi = THERE IS NO DEVELOPER, they are sometimes calling it "Direct Dye" even though that is not really an appropriate name.

The newest classification Demi permanent is also called ''deposit only'' and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers which is 100% incorrect. It is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.
I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses 3 to 15 Volume is Demi-Permanent. Which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened- colored- add depth to and most importantly SHINE. Wella's Color Touch line gives hair soooo much shine you will be dancing on the furniture after you use it. It is my number 1 line of hair color out of every line and every category.

MAKE IT YOUR FAVORITE  LINE AS WELL> 

I RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRY IT 

AT LEAST ONCE!

With those numbers of developer, the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.
I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:

• strength
• shine
• illusion of thickness
• reduce frizz & tangles.....just try it once, you have nothing to lose.

IF YOU HAVE lots of gray : the perfect manner in which to color the hair is to use Wella Koleston Perfect on the base and Wella Color Touch on the Lengths......I cannot wait for you to try this! If you need a conversion of your formula - call me I will give you one

This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and is ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.
By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content.

 In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date... I have tested most every line aned this line is the single best line of hair color in the world currently HANDS DOWN !

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR 


Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. The single best line that exists on planet earth is Well'a Koleston Perfect . . . I have seen this line cover the toughest of tough gray hair to the most gentle of gentle colors.......all with grace, and shine.....


The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and that is why this is considered Permanent color.You have a line of demarcation on the hair once one uses this type of hair color and so it is referred to as PERMANENT HAIR COLOR.

Now here is a chart I used a lot when I was doing hair I would show it to clients if they were really confused about which color they wanted....I would ask them to just point to one or 2 colors that they loved. Maybe all of you can also use this chart to try to figure out which way you want to go with your hair color as well.......

Now if you use permanent hair color and you make a mistake I just want you to know that I can solve almost every single problem there is with hair color ...and as big as a sentence as that is I am very confidant I can back it up....so I don't want you to worry if you are considering becoming a Crib Colorist for the first time.... I am here for you.... We have a $49. EMERGENCY Help Phone Call ......if you have just come out of a Salon and your hair is:

• Green
• Blue
• Gray AND NOT THE "good gray"
• ORANGE
• YELLOW
• Etc................its the ER FOR HAIR  
•  

There is now an emergency help phone call Item you may purchase in the store. I would hope it would not be any of my Crib colorist Militia - but maybe some of you new to Killerstrands......Its called ER FOR HAIR - A 911 Service for any and all hair color disasters   

Yes. we have hair color removers and all sorts of tricks that I have accumulated over the course of the last 17 years and I can help everyone with almost every problem or question there is in regards to hair coloring. But, in order to avoid having to use that bag of tricks for all the various problems that permanent hair color seems to grow, I highly recommend that each and every one of you take the suggestion I have made and read the Blog Cover to cover....because

IF
YOU
DO.........................
THEN 
YOU 
WILL 
HELP
ELIMINATE
A 
WHOLE 
LOT 
OF 
HEADACHES 
FOR 
YOU 
AND 
ME 
IN 
THE 
FUTURE 
which 
MAKES 
for 
a
Lot 
CALMER 
AND 
SWEETER 
LIFESTYLE

KC

please...............


 read 


the


 Blog

Semi-Permanent Hair Color Has A New Name & I Am Not Happy About It

Semi Permanent Hair Color is the color that was called Glosses and Cellophane's in the

 70's - 80's & part of the 90's then that same color that was used for many different color correction processes, slowly began to disappear. It almost completely disappeared except for a couple of us LOAD-MOUTH Colorists, that won't let it disappear....keep shouting and pouting about the fact that we need it BADLY There are just some Colorists including me who realize how very important the category is !



Slowly the public is going to begin to use semi-permanents and see how to use them to play with and see how they can be used............
 like using different colors of eyeshadow................................to go with an outfit
...................................................or a season.
 They go in and come out without any damage  to the hair because of the way they are put into the hair strands, the color rests on the outside of the hair strands. Remember to always keep your eye out for HEALTHY ways to have fun with your hair.. . . . . there are ways,  you just have to hunt for what is right FOR YOU ! ! ! ! 
if you use pastels....our pastels are made in INTENSIVE as a base (beginning today), which is a pH Balancer.
Others may be to, do your label reading just like you do for your food. . 


For Example............ its Summer now and how wonderful it is to begin the season with a yummy Apricot Rose color . . .  one of my favorites 

 What define's a Semi-permanent Color from a Demi? Absolutely NO developer is used, you pour the color out of the bottle into the bowl and grab your tint brush and a wide tooth comb and apply in the exact same method........no 3 Volume no 5 Volume.....no ANY Volume...........and the name they have coined for this category of Colors, now is "Direct Dyes".  

Just today when I saw some new SEMI-Permanent colors.
 I was talking to the warehouse's manager and was corrected when I asked about semi-permanent Hair Color . . . ."Oh, you mean 'DIRECT DYES' as I commented on L'Oreal's new Color Chalks ." 

I wanted to slap her silly face......"Direct Dye".........who thought that lame name up ??? The public is not going to like that and as a Colorist it scares me that what I am hoping will add shine.............spark an unusual color........... and will shampoo out in a short amount of time.....isn't going to do any of those things by the sounds of that name. As usual I have suggestions for the hair color companies, The nice thing is ....if I have patience, in about a year all my dreams.... will COME TRUE.

"NAMES OF PRODUCTS  MUST REFLECT A PRODUCTS' JOB/GOAL/MISSION....."

Lets continue to call them Semi-Permanent & see if we can squash the bad name before it permanently invades!
Semi-Permanents are
wonderful for adding shine, smoothing the cuticle ( so hair looks shiny) giving the hair a gloss that lasts from 10 - 24 days depending on how much you shampoo............. BE SURE to use a Sulfate-Free Shampoo. 
Gives shine, gloss and covers gray for a short time . . . about 2-3 weeks depending on the brand and your porosity and amount of gray and what you are trying to accomplish.


KC 
killer chemist 

You know something I forgot to add there are semi's in plain colors, such as brown, light brown, dark blond, light blond, beige blond..........so don't think you have to follow the photos above to get the benefits of a wonderful group of hair color that is not very well known. I bet I could find a good use for every single one of you....Leave your Level and Tone in the comments section and ask me if there is a Semi for you somewhere iun the ever expanding world of hair color ...the category: Semi-permanent colors ;)
KC 

Crib Colorists Consider Crazy (Hair) Color Categories

Takes More Than a few Words to Clarify Haircolor Categories 

 Categories of hair color: what would you guess is the primary defining characteristic of categories of Hair Color?

 How Long the Color Lasts  -  is the answer............sounds simple, huh? That is where the simplicity ends.

There are 5 main categories of hair color: Temporary, Semi- Permanent, Demi-Permanent, Permanent and Bleaches / Lighteners. We will review the first 2 today. There is such horrible misrepresentations out there in the aisles of Sally's, Target, Walmart and every other place that sell the inexpensive "crap-in-a-box" Haircolor Kits. If I could choose how to best help the public in home hair coloring it would be to teach them what each of these hair color categories are, so they know how to avoid them and learn not to support these companies that are leading you down these paths of hair destruction. So many women contact me with horrific stories of hair destruction, so please if you don't understand, ask questions in the comments section so this can be solved and for all to see. 

I understand how thousands - no millions of people every single day - look at a box of haircolor that has "Semi Permanent" printed on the box, and purchase it with the thought that it will NOT be permanent, that it will NOT make a demarcation line, that it will gradually and thoroughly shampoo out and then it doesn't do any of those things. This problem is not the consumers, it is NOT YOUR mistake . . .it is the mistake of the company that sells these products. Maybe some people shrug me off  . . . and say " there are so many more serious problems out there"....but I know from up front experience that these problems lead you... the consumer...to 1) depression 2) anger 3) insecurity... and that is only the top 3 issues.

So many times it happens to teenagers, who many times purchase their 1st box behind the parents back, and we all know how fragile a teens emotions are. We've all done things like that with our hair......but the point is, what is printed on the outside of that box, NEEDS TO BE EXACTLY WHAT IS "INSIDE" of IT -- PERIOD.  I am taking a huge risk here as the large shampoo manufacturers actually advertise on my Blogs here which you will see all around this page here. . . . they may pull their ads with this article.... I wish I was wealthy enough to, not care. . . . but I'm not. We will see, I am not against these companies. . .  I just want them to treat the consumer fairly. I have dozens of people all the time in total tears and breaking down because of the mess the "Crap-in-a-Box" Kits and cheap hair color purchased at Sally's are used. 
I want to start by teaching as clearly as I can "what" each category of hair color means. Maybe the large manufacturers will read this, you just never know nowadays whose reading your words  ;-)

It wasn't until very recently, when they came up with a new line of hair color that actually has permanent Krazy Kolors, did I decide that I don't really want any hair color to be truly, totally, permanent. A company name PRAVANA was born, by a man who worked for about 20 huge hair company's over his career, he invented a true permanent  > Krazy Kolor palette. From all accounts given to me by others - these Crazy Colors were coming in with reports from everywhere that they were rock solid> Permanent. Maybe this sounds good to some, as it first did to me, mainly because Krazy Kolors are the first colors to fade, no one has ever been able to get them to last bold and vivid as first applied.. . but think about it, HOT PINK > screaming YELLOW in your hair forever -- until you cut it out ??!?  The concept started to bother me, I put a lot of thought into a totally permanent hair color & if I really would want one, the decision was a resounding NO. 



Truthfully, most people only want bright colors in their hair for brief periods of time, and it wasn't until this new hair color revelation that I started picturing a fully permanent hair color and the disadvantages - of. Its fun, its unique

Having used one of my KC quotes for years on this topic" there is no such thing as permanent hair color - even permanent fades"-- permanent hair color  -- shampoo-fades, sun-fades, hot tool-fades,  on & on, therefore, it is not truly permanent in my book, nor should it be in yours. Don't ever think it will be so permanent nothing can be done to change it.  If you haven't heard of VANISH yet, please look in the LABELS on the right-hand Sidebar, under Decolorize. Read the posts, which is how Celebs change hair color safely and frequently - its is very expensive - but at least it exists.

It reminds me precisely of the problems that go hand in hand with the Crap-In-A-Box (boxed hair color) Kits, the way the hair color seems pasted or GLUED in the hair - it doesn't budge at all. For those of you that I have gone through the long - Rejuvenate &  Decolorize Your Hair -trek with ( years of Dark Boxed hair color stuck on your hair ) - some have needed up to 10 boxes of VANISH to get it all out.  

We expect hair color to fade somewhat, otherwise how would you go lighter in the Spring and Darker in the Fall, if it didn't fade somewhat ? You wouldn't. How would you get that wonderful refreshment that comes with that Touch-up every 6 weeks ? You wouldn't.....not if Permanent Hair Color didn't fade a tiny bit. Think about that the next time you choose the category of hair color you choose. Most of us really do like to change our hair color a little bit within a single year....for that we should use Demi permanent + Permanent Hair Colors, not any of these new weird strains of hair color that are popping up. Here is a chart from Sassoon and therefore from England where Advanced/Master hair cutting,styling and hair coloring got its roots and which most countries recognize as the leader in hair - all facets. 

5 Categories of HAIR  COLOR ,

Temporary Hair Color .- Water-based, coats the hair shaft, becomes longer lasting with heat.  Includes: Rinses, Colored Tinted Shampoos & Conditioners, Colored Styling Products.  .......Deposits Color ONLY, coats the hair strand temporarily. Does not  Lighten or Lift,  uses No Developer, No Activator as long as it is 1 bottle, you are safe. 
Semi-Permanent Hair Color .....Deposit-Only hair color - designed to last Haircut to Haircut, originally. No Developer, No Catalyst, No Activator - again - no nothing - that's how you can tell if it is a true Semi Permanent or not. Semi Permanent  color is more penetrating than temporary but should not leave a L/D (Line of Demarcation). On normal healthy hair semi-permanent colors should eventually fade with shampooing.
Demi Permanent Hair Color......All Developer/Activator/Catalyst under 20 Volume, so 19 Volume and below. The common versions are 10 & 15 Volume + in the Color Touch Line : 6 & 13 Volume are the 2 EMULSIONS supplied with that line. If you take a tube of Koleston Perfect ( which is permanent hair color) and use it with 10 Volume developer, that turns it into Demi Permanent Hair Color.
Permanent Hair Color.....All Developer 20 Volume and above. 20 Volume Lifts 1-2 Levels and Deposits. 30Volume Developer Lifts 2-3 Levels and Deposits
Lighteners/Bleaches -  lightening the hair

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary haircoloring products are designed to last shampoo to shampoo. Temporary color is what many of us use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... that may be removed by shampooing. We use these haircolors in the movie business frequently, when a Stunt man or woman doubles an actor, you are chosen by your height,weight & talent. Wardrobe and hair can be altered very easily which makes for an almost perfect visual double, the last act is either wearing a wig ( no one can stand) or tinting our hair with a temporary hair color, at all times I kept 5-10 temp. "ROUX" colors on hand.
READ the label - remember how important your hair is to you.  Lasts only until you shampoo out, it rains, swim. Do not get too careless with this category....or it can stain very porous hair. May be called a "rinse".    Temporary products color the surface of the hair, superficially. They are formulated to prohibit penetration of the cuticle; high-weight tint molecules that cannot pass into the cortex are used. The labels of temporary hair color may list acid dyes, basic dyes, FD&C & D & C dyes. Because the molecules are so large - if overused - they reduce natural shine. When I was using these a few times a week in the Stunt business - my hair felt like straw....so be very careful. There is NOTHING like a HEALTHY HEAD of HAIR.
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft. Not very many people lay claim to using this type of hair color, but I have and I can say when used frequently they don't damage the hair but they do dry it out... I wonder how it would work for victims of oily hair....?
Temporary haircolors are available in a variety of colors & products, such as:

• color rinses applied weekly to add color
• colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
• hair mascara
• special effects
• color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : the red/brunette/blond boosters so prevalent right now 
•  

2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
Semi-permanent haircoloring was first conceived to blend gray, and to give those hesitant to color their hair the first time a sample go-round. It evolved into a great haircolor for men, same day color for Relaxer'ed ethnic hair + perfect color for damaged hair. Semi-permanents are ideally suited to these tasks because they only DEPOSIT , there is NO lifting - NO Lightening in a true S/P. I still can remember to this day, that our very first attempt at real hair color in Hair Academy was Semi-Permanent which we performed on each other. It was such a cool feeling to change hair color for the first time and with a true semi-permanent it gives the most dynamic shine I had ever seen..it was mind-blowing. Semi Permanents typically blend low percentages of gray while demi-permanents blend or cover more gray.
What becomes a huge problem for everyone and most specifically the consumer - YOU - is there is no rules or laws to protect you from buying the correct product. As I tell my clients constantly, "there could be battery acid in that color you bought and it would not be against the law" !! That is very true, and very scary.
Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. If it is truly a semi-permanent it will last only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo.
True Semi-Perm haircolor is used straight out of the bottle, if the color requires an activator-developer-processor-peroxide ---> "of any sort at all"  that moves it to a different classification (demi-permanent). The reason they use the term "activator" instead of "developer"  is to confuse the consumer, most will not know that a true semi-permanent should not be mixed with  A N Y T H I N G!   Check whatever you are purchasing, if it says "SEMI-PERMANENT" it should have a tube or bottle of hair color and NOTHING else - PERIOD! That way you can be assured of no, line-of-demarcation, once it begins washing out of your hair.
If they want the color to do something else, change categories - re-name it and follow the "unwritten & written laws" about it, so no one gets hurt. The problem here is the improper use affects millions of people not just a couple dozen.
The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration
Semi Permanents are completely incapable of LIGHTENING, I have seen a number of kits that claim they are semi permanent blonding kits. That is an oxy moron there is no such thing as a semi-permanent that lightens hair, to lighten you would need a "bottle of peroxide" I hope this is becoming crystal clear to many of you.
Clairol has at least 10 infringements on this term . . . . I cannot even stand to read them,  they are so far from the truth. It is downright blatant FALSE advertising of a chemical  procedure a person applies to their own body, I feel just horrible that it is done to people every single day. The only way I can see to help is by educating the people that read this BLOG. There is no way I can go to a magazine, a TV show, even a newspaper with this info. Not one of them will print it. WzZhy? The company that owns Clairol is the number 1 advertiser in the entire USA, no one in their right mind would jeopardize how they bring in the most revenue. PLEASE do your own policing .The funny part of this is.......they also are the only ones to have the best Semi Permanent on the planet (the BEAUTIFUL Collection) . . .we use it at Vidal Sassoon Academy, I still use it today - I wouldn't use any other brand.! ? ! ? ! ? !

Demi's and Permanents are next. Hold on.
 For those new to Killer Strands . . . my number 1 recommendation for everyone is to go back to the beginning of the Posts . . Skim through them - read the ones pertaining to you. There is a lot of information here in no particular order, I have been telling new readers this for a year........every person I relay this too. . . Thanks me.    It will be the truth in Hair Care wide open for all to see. Enjoy.

Killer Chemist

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color

This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:

• Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}


• growth spurt for hair


• off the chart SHINE


• solution for damaged strands


• Recipe for hair conditioner


• Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)

I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to





All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.


We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.


That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.


As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.


Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.


Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.


Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:

• greater penetration


• more deposit


• incredible Shine


• better coverage on gray


• natural appearance


• lasts longer


• more intensity


• better overall coverage

Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.


Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.


The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.


The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?


This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.

There are 2 choices of developer,

1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.

Blue Blonde

Both - were bleached to a pale yellow stage

> a Soft Blue and a Vivid Blue semi permanent color - put on top - for 30 minutes